LS1 S13 Handling and Power Delivery

[Psychomoongoose]

Hey guys Im a mountain road guy and am going with the LS1 swap nexxxt month. Im really excited, because my 270 WHP SR20 is causing me problems. Anyway, can anyone here with a LS1'd S13 tell me how their car is on the twistys? Im nervous about maybe too much torque and spinning out? I know this sounds bitch but my fucking car is clean and Ive never had a V8 in anything and the SR doesnt have nearly the throttle response or torque of the LS1 (im told and imagine). I just want to hear from some of the people with this swap and how the car behaves in the mountains. I really dont want to back my car off a cliff, but, too late! Im going with the swap anyhow. Can anyone give me some advice from experience? Oh ya i only got 225s on 17s in the rear.

[e1_griego]

Quit driving mountain roads and then it's not a problem.

There's these things called tracks, you should try one ;)

And you will need more than 225s for sure.

[Psychomoongoose]

But I cant stop driving mountain roads. Thats what I do with my car!!! I wish I could track it but i really dont want the added weight of a cage. Its also my daily, and theres a mountain road on my way to work!!!

I want 18x9 and 18x10 but the only rims ill 'settle' for are Work VS-XX's and we all know how expensive those are. So prolly not till christmas or so. I already got a 5 lug and front and rear Z32 brakes, but cant really put em until i can afford them rims. And tires.

[davirene]

Lots of rubber....set your car up for grip....and invest in the best brakes you can afford...theres a thread on here with 240's and lots of tire stuffed in the wheel wells.....

[Psychomoongoose]

I have adjustable camber front and rear, and i think toe arms on the back. I bought the car like that and now I feel real dumb about not knowing exactly what they do for my car. Are theyre any baseline alignment setting that I can adjust to for grip? I want to run some lower offset wheels all around but not so low that I have to run like 4 degrees of camber.

Thanks for the halp

[e1_griego]

Maybe skip the ls1 for a bit....

[Psychomoongoose]

maybe too late. Look, i could drive the SR20 with 270WHP just fine. I just want something more reliable and better gas mileage. The power dont hurt, either. I just wanted 300 WHP and bulletproof reliability.

what type of car do you have and whats the mods? do you track it? Whats going to make me listen to you?
how can you say to skip the LS1?

[singlecamslam]

You're 28?

[e1_griego]

I say skip the ls1 because it seems like you need to learn about cars/driving some more... Maybe try an autocross or a whole season of it and learn to drive.

Backroads=/= real driving

[shiftdrift]

yeah, i think you need to learn a bit more before you jump up like that.

[Z33dori]

have fun fishing for your car off the side of a mountain.

[g6civcx]

can anyone here with a LS1'd S13 tell me how their car is on the twistys?

I can tell you how a small block chevy handles on the "twistys". Cast iron block weighs more than aluminium block, but it depends on the installation. Every single LS-series kit I've seen places the engine very high. I went custom for best weight distribution.

Im nervous about maybe too much torque and spinning out?

No one can help you there. Sign up for driving school.

Can anyone give me some advice from experience?

I can tell you that you will want to save up at least $15k. Not only is the drivetrain expensive, but you'll need supporting mods. Things add up very quickly.

[bmhossain]

It wont be like driving your SR and you'll definately need wider tires. Maybe you should hit the track with it before you go speeding down the mountain. This is not a cheap swap to do right. Maybe you'd be better putting that money somewhere else.

[Psychomoongoose]

have fun fishing for your car off the side of a mountain.

have fun being a mark !!!

[Psychomoongoose]

[QUOTE=g6civcx;3553212]I can tell you how a small block chevy handles on the "twistys". Cast iron block weighs more than aluminium block, but it depends on the installation. Every single LS-series kit I've seen places the engine very high. I went custom for best weight distribution.[QUOTE=g6civcx;3553212]


Even the sikky kit? it seems like it mounts fairly low.

[tougefactory]

Stance released custom valved setup for LS1 equipped S chassis few weeks ago. They have been testing for past 3-4 months. The car was tested on the track, grip and drift and it handles like a dream. Even the ride quality has improved dramatically.

We put the car on the scales and LS1 equipped S chassis is only slightly heavier over the front tires compared to stock KA equipped chassis. But because the motor sits over the front axles, the dynamics of the chassis has changed. So Stance has developed a custom setup for this change.

Don't think you can just throw on regular coilovers on the car, get the LS1 spec coilovers! you won't regret it

[The Hamsterball]

If you're going to adjust the camber, adjust it accordingly to how stiff your shocks and springs are, and accordingly to how wide your new tires/wheels will be.
Maybe around -2.0 deg in front and -1.5 in rear for a start to test out before final adjustment.

Don't run any toe in or toe out. Definitely zero toe in front.
If you want to run any toe in the rear, run a very tiny amount.
(I ran 0 toe front and rear on my s13 for years and liked it).

If you're worried about the extra torque spinning your rear wheels easier, use the throttle less when you're apexing.
Learn to drive with the new engine slowly on your way to work. For a few weeks, lightly run on the mountain without using the brake on your runs. If you find that you have to use your brake still, you're going too fast.

It's a lot easier to just auto-x, hpde, or take your car out to an open track day though.

[fckillerbee]

If you're going to adjust the camber, adjust it accordingly to how stiff your shocks and springs are, and accordingly to how wide your new tires/wheels will be.
Maybe around -2.0 deg in front and -1.5 in rear for a start to test out before final adjustment.

Don't run any toe in or toe out. Definitely zero toe in front.
If you want to run any toe in the rear, run a very tiny amount.
(I ran 0 toe front and rear on my s13 for years and liked it).

If you're worried about the extra torque spinning your rear wheels easier, use the throttle less when you're apexing.
Learn to drive with the new engine slowly on your way to work. For a few weeks, lightly run on the mountain without using the brake on your runs. If you find that you have to use your brake still, you're going too fast.

It's a lot easier to just auto-x, hpde, or take your car out to an open track day though.


yes, with anything with power...take it easy, take it to track...find it's limits...and don't think of going to the limit on a mountain pass....as weather has a huge factor in canyon racing....

fyi...more weight in the front means the rear will feel lighter...car will want to pivot more on the front wheels, allowing for more rotation....so take out the rear sway bar for the most traction.

and 225's....really....i drift my stock ka with 225 40 18x10j.....your not driving hard enough.

[Psychomoongoose]

thank you for your inputs, Hamsterball and FCkillerbee. This is what I was asking for, not a bunch of haters tryin ta salt my game. Do you guys know how much heavier it will be with the LS1 compared to my SR20 with a GT28 and a Greddy front mount? I looked around a lot on the V8 FAQ but alls i saw was a bunch of conflicting information.

Ya, thats what I figgerd on the mountain, just take it easy. I dont ever really push it on the road, just some spirited corners here and there. I only drive semi fast on roads I know, in the day, and sunny. I know how slippery cold\wet pavement can be.

Thanks again for the input guys.

[thenooblet]

You're probably gonna have more than 300whp, just to let you know. LS1's put down like 305whp in a stock f-body camaro w/ 3.55 gears. And with the supporting mods you need for the swap plus the stock s13 4.08 gears (im assuming you still have stock gears but you know what hapens when you assume) its gonna be more. I live very close to the shop that tuned Stewart Leask's LS1 s13 drift car (East Texas Muscle Cars) and the guy said he put down 420whp with just a very mild cam, and said you could stomp the gas in 2nd or 3rd gear (dont really remember what gear he said) doing about 55-60mph and it would do "the worlds biggest burnout." I'm doing an LS1 s14, fyi.

[g6civcx]

Even the sikky kit? it seems like it mounts fairly low.

I don't want to put down any vendor so I'll just keep the comments to my own application.

For me, every Sikky LS-series swap I've seen puts the engine way too high and too far forward for me. It may be ok for you but it's too high and too frontward for me.

I went with a custom mount that puts the engine 6 inches into the firewall. The top of my carburetor on custom mounts sits lower than the intake of an LS1 on Sikky mount.

FYI, the carb is a good 2-3" higher than the LS1 intake when measured from the bottom of the block so that gives you a good idea of how high the Sikky kit is.

The Hinson and Sikky kits sit way too high for me. I haven't seen the McKinney kit so I can't comment.

[Psychomoongoose]

I would like to see some pics of your setup and how much better your center of gravity (both front to back and top to bottom) is with the setup you have. I wish I could afford to do it like that but I have to have my car back from the mechanic ASAP because its my only car and I need it for work.

Do you have pics up on zilvia? Im interested also to know why you are going with carbs instead of an EFI setup. Have you finished this car? Have you drove it yet? I am really interested in hearing from someone who has had a SR and went with the LS1 and can tell me the difference in the dynamics of the car. So far, It doesnt sound like any of these replys come from anyone thats drove both besides possibly you.

[thenooblet]

Stew Leask, Jonny5 is his screen name, has an sr20 s14 and a ls1 s13. you could ask him if what the differences could be even though they are different chassis'

[Psychomoongoose]

Stew Leask, Jonny5 is his screen name, has an sr20 s14 and a ls1 s13. you could ask him if what the differences could be even though they are different chassis'

I searched for Jonny5 but the search returned no results

[RacerX1]

I can tell you how a small block chevy handles on the "twistys". Cast iron block weighs more than aluminium block, but it depends on the installation. Every single LS-series kit I've seen places the engine very high. I went custom for best weight distribution.



No one can help you there. Sign up for driving school.



I can tell you that you will want to save up at least $15k. Not only is the drivetrain expensive, but you'll need supporting mods. Things add up very quickly.

Are you crazy? $15k?! You can do it for well under $10k if you shop smart & do the labor yourself, you can prolly do it for under $8k

[Psychomoongoose]

Ya I paid $4500 for a 2002 LS1 and T56 with 26,000 miles and all accessories. Im paying about $3500 for the swap kit and headers, and the clutch master cylinder conversion and power steering lines. My buddys gonna install it for $500 but Imma give him a cool G just cuz hes the shit. So im in for $9000 so far, and imma need little shit here and there like a Y pipe and a rad fan. So im hoping under $10 Gs all together.

[g6civcx]

I would like to see some pics of your setup and how much better your center of gravity (both front to back and top to bottom) is with the setup you have

I do have pix and can take measurements for you to compare.

Im interested also to know why you are going with carbs instead of an EFI setup.

In order: cost, availability of parts, and easier to tune without using a computer.

Have you finished this car? Have you drove it yet? I am really interested in hearing from someone who has had a SR and went with the LS1 and can tell me the difference in the dynamics of the car. So far, It doesnt sound like any of these replys come from anyone thats drove both besides possibly you.

Yes, I daily drive it.

It's much better for low speed stuff like autocross or short road course. You don't have any lag compared to high power turbo cars.

For handling, I can't honestly say if I notice any difference. That may actually be a good thing.

The nicest thing is being able to accelerate in any gear without bogging or waiting to build boost.

The difference between my setup and an LS1 is that my torque comes earlier, and my throttle response is better than a stock LS1.

True that LS1 ultimately revs higher and makes more power, but for low speed stuff, which is most of what I do, I feel that my carb gives me better car control.

[g6civcx]

Are you crazy? $15k?! You can do it for well under $10k if you shop smart & do the labor yourself, you can prolly do it for under $8k

$15k sounds like a lot, but keep in mind that when I was looking for a T56, it cost damn near $3k to find one in crappy shape. I got my T5 for $600 from a 305 Camaro sitting in the junkyard.

An LS1 in good shape would have easily cost me another $3-4k. If you can get a good deal on an LS1 then you should jump on it, but I was having trouble finding good used LS1s. My entire longblock/intake/carb costs $2000 new from GMPP.

Just the drivetrain alone would have cost me at least $6-7k. All the other small stuff like standalone engine harness and engine management, conversion kit for the power steering, cooling, engine mounts, etc., would have cost me another $3k easily if I wanted to do it right.

That's almost $10k in just parts before the price of the engine mount kits.

On top of that you add in all the incidentals and it's another few grand easily.

All this is before labor. If you pay a shop it's easily $15k or more.


Give Hinson a call to get an idea. They gave me a rough estimate of around $15k give or take a few grand to drop your car off, have them do the work, and be able to drive away.

[jrbump]

Damn, why do you have to be from Santa Rosa?


Anyway, don't listen to these haters. Part outs make this place go round.


-Cheers.

[josh18_2k]

when I was looking for a T56, it cost damn near $3k to find one in crappy shape

freshly built upgraded T56's are 1800 with no core (steel forks, carbon synchros, etc)

An LS1 in good shape would have easily cost me another $3-4k

my '00 pullout was 3800 shipped with an auto attached, back in '04. prices havnt climbed.

Give Hinson a call to get an idea. They gave me a rough estimate of around $15k give or take a few grand to drop your car off, have them do the work, and be able to drive away.

hinson = total ripoff. i would never buy anything from him, other than his FC engine mounts (i have an LS1 FC). everything he sells can be had for half the price elsewhere, and his labor proces are rediculous.

[josh18_2k]

But I cant stop driving mountain roads. Thats what I do with my car!!! I wish I could track it but i really dont want the added weight of a cage.

wheres the facepalm icon...

i cant track, because a cage is too heavy (tracks dont require cage), so instead i'm gonna drive fast next to cliffs? wut

[Psychomoongoose]

Part outs make this place go round? Are you assuming that Imma wreck my shit?
I hope not, speaking of haters.

Damn playa whats wrong with Santa Rosa?

And tracks dont require a cage? Where are you from? At my local track they require one.

[g6civcx]

freshly built upgraded T56's are 1800 with no core (steel forks, carbon synchros, etc)



my '00 pullout was 3800 shipped with an auto attached, back in '04. prices havnt climbed.

While my estimates are a bit on the high side, you do not want to get in the middle of this project and run out of money.

The OP can go to V8Silvia and find dozens of unfinished projects. Daily driveable LS1 S-chassis is really rare to come by.

Most LS1 projects are heaps in the storage sheds with no more than hopes and dreams.

It takes a LOT of work to pull off the swap in an S-chassis, or money. Most times. Both.

I'm on my third iteration with this engine. The first time was a total wreck and I learned what not to do. The second go-round was better but not perfect to what I wanted. The third time is when everything fits perfectly and runs harmoniously.

Most of this swap will require you to do your own research since it's not as well documented as a regular SR swap.

While it's true that the LS1 hs a lot of documentation, the problems you will have come up when you try to work the drivetrain into the chassis.

If you can pull it off for $10k then you're a lot smarter than the average S-owner.

If you can pull it off for $7k then you either have some serious hookups or serious skill, or both.


When pricing a project like this it's better to be high and have extra money leftover than to be low and don't have enough money to finish the swap. Look on V8Silvia.

Now when I convert my backup car, it will cost me less than half of what I spent on the first car, but that's from applying what I've learned in the process. It's not as easy as people make it out to be.

hinson = total ripoff. i would never buy anything from him, other than his FC engine mounts (i have an LS1 FC). everything he sells can be had for half the price elsewhere, and his labor proces are rediculous.

I agree. The price for the subframe work alone is a lot. My mounts use the stock subframe. I can pull out the V8 and swap in a KA/SR today with no extra work.

[RacerX1]

While my estimates are a bit on the high side, you do not want to get in the middle of this project and run out of money.

The OP can go to V8Silvia and find dozens of unfinished projects. Daily driveable LS1 S-chassis is really rare to come by.

Most LS1 projects are heaps in the storage sheds with no more than hopes and dreams.

This is very true and good advice, but when I looked into it further I found that if your PATIENT and look around, make enough calls you can get it done for much cheaper. Obviously most people arent quite that patient but it can be done, your giving him the high side, Im giving him the low so he can make his own decision.

OP-you should definately do it, itd be a blast to drive everyday but be careful!

[g6civcx]

This is very true and good advice, but when I looked into it further I found that if your PATIENT and look around, make enough calls you can get it done for much cheaper. Obviously most people arent quite that patient but it can be done, your giving him the high side, Im giving him the low so he can make his own decision.

OP-you should definately do it, itd be a blast to drive everyday but be careful!

You are absolutely correct.

I have a stock S13 that I was thinking about doing an LS1 swap to. I have slightly below average intelligence so smarter people can get by with less.

If I did all the work myself, I wouldn't be comfortable with a budget of no less than $13k to have a fully driveable daily with all the features that a stock S13 has.

T56 prices have gone down a bit since 5 years ago probably because this swap is geting more popular.

LS1 prices are pretty much the same. So are all the accessories.

Let's price out the other stuff:

Sikky mount kit: $1750
GMPP engine harness: 1700
GMPP ECM: 600

That's already 4 grand on top of the $6.5k drivetrain. You still need:

intake and filter
radiator hoses
radiator fan
heater hoses
headers
downpipe and possibly custom exhaust
speedo and tach
power steering lines
a bunch of other things I didn't bother to list

So if you're already over 10g before you add these parts, $15k would still be a bit uncomfortable even if I did all the work myself.

[thenooblet]

My bad its Johny5...
I paid 2200 for a wrecked 02 z28 with only 52xxx that had a t56...i saved about $1300 to $1500 on that deal but I had to drop the engine myself, but that was no big deal. Im about to get my ls1 s14 done for less than $7500...

I have:
Sikky Mount Kit with alum. DS and solid mounts
Sikky Willwood clutch master cylinder conv.
Sikky PS lines
Daft Innovations fuel system
Bought an s14 lsx exhaust from a guy that wrecked his ls2 s14
BBK shorty headers from a 2000 Corvette then i am going to get a straight pipe welded onto that goes to the exhaust
Mishimoto KA radiator w/ I-sis efans
Sikky wire harness service

and btw I have a brand new Walbro 255lph intank fuel pump for sale if you need it
http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/333557-walbro-255lph-fuel-pump-brand-new.html

[g6civcx]

I have:
Sikky Mount Kit with alum. DS and solid mounts
Sikky Willwood clutch master cylinder conv.
Sikky PS lines
Daft Innovations fuel system
Bought an s14 lsx exhaust from a guy that wrecked his ls2 s14
BBK shorty headers from a 2000 Corvette then i am going to get a straight pipe welded onto that goes to the exhaust
Mishimoto KA radiator w/ I-sis efans
Sikky wire harness service


How much did all this cost you?

What ECM will you be running?


TIP: You can save a little bit of money if you run the headers into a single downpipe and run that into the stock cat. Then you can use a regular S13 cat and catback exhaust.

[Future_gohan]

While my estimates are a bit on the high side, you do not want to get in the middle of this project and run out of money.

The OP can go to V8Silvia and find dozens of unfinished projects. Daily driveable LS1 S-chassis is really rare to come by.

Most LS1 projects are heaps in the storage sheds with no more than hopes and dreams.

It takes a LOT of work to pull off the swap in an S-chassis, or money. Most times. Both.

I'm on my third iteration with this engine. The first time was a total wreck and I learned what not to do. The second go-round was better but not perfect to what I wanted. The third time is when everything fits perfectly and runs harmoniously.

Most of this swap will require you to do your own research since it's not as well documented as a regular SR swap.

While it's true that the LS1 hs a lot of documentation, the problems you will have come up when you try to work the drivetrain into the chassis.

If you can pull it off for $10k then you're a lot smarter than the average S-owner.

If you can pull it off for $7k then you either have some serious hookups or serious skill, or both.



Not entirely sure how shops price around were you are, but were doing someones swap right now and with parts and an s14 shell it didn't even come too around 7k.

[thenooblet]

I have:
Sikky Mount Kit with alum. DS and solid mounts - $2020
Sikky Willwood clutch master cylinder conv. - $250
Sikky PS lines - $130
Daft Innovations fuel system - $250
Bought an s14 lsx exhaust from a guy that wrecked his ls2 s14 - $325
BBK shorty headers from a 2000 Corvette then i am going to get a straight pipe welded onto that goes to the exhaust - $250+whatever the labor is to get the pipe welded
Mishimoto KA radiator w/ I-sis efans - $365
Sikky wire harness service - $250

+~130 for shipping some stuff


How much did all this cost you?


TIP: You can save a little bit of money if you run the headers into a single downpipe and run that into the stock cat. Then you can use a regular S13 cat and catback exhaust.


the ls1 stock PCM is just like a stand alone so it can be completely retuned, so im just going to use it and get a tune in the near future
msglnght..

[g6civcx]

the ls1 stock PCM is just like a stand alone so it can be completely retuned, so im just going to use it and get a tune in the near future


I have not seen the Sikky wiring service. Will you be able to plug in the stock 02 PCM and just run as is? Will you have any codes? What about the OBDII EVAP? Will you be bypassing that?

So you're up to almost 6.5k plus welding labor.

What other parts are needed?

Not entirely sure how shops price around were you are, but were doing someones swap right now and with parts and an s14 shell it didn't even come too around 7k.

Does the car run?

[HYPNOTIK]

Backroads=/= real driving

You're doing it wrong...

[akatimone209]

does anyone know of a wire harness that will work for a ka24e engine, cant find anyone with that harness specifically

[thenooblet]

I have not seen the Sikky wiring service. Will you be able to plug in the stock 02 PCM and just run as is? Will you have any codes? What about the OBDII EVAP? Will you be bypassing that?

So you're up to almost 6.5k plus welding labor.

What other parts are needed?



It should just plug in to the PCM and run just like it has bolt ons, if i have to i will get a tune and that will only be like 250 or a bit more.

It shouldnt have any codes...

Not sure what you mean by OBD II EVAP? like as in emmisions stuff/EGR?

The only other parts i will need is some radiator hoses and coolant and oil and i need a PS hardline bc one of mine is crushed, and some radiator tab things...mostly just small stuff, that I know of...........................

[Psychomoongoose]

G6civcx i would be stoked to see pics of your setup. What engine are you running? I looked over your posts but I really didn't see for sure.

Thanks again for everyone's insight.

[g6civcx]

What engine are you running?

Generation 0/I pre-1985 small block chevy.

Some baseline measurements for reference. This is a stock single cam KA.

The first measurement is from the rear of the core support to the front of the block.

The second measurement is frm the bottom of the valve cover to the hood ledge.

http://www.nguyenconsult.com/S13Build/ka1.jpg
http://www.nguyenconsult.com/S13Build/ka2.jpg


Small block chevy dimensions: http://www.enginefactory.com/chevdimensions.htm

LS1 dimensions:
http://paceperformance.com/images/products/misc/webpageimages/lq4%20truck.gif


An LS1 is 28.25" from oil pan to the top of the engine.

My small block is 22" from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the valve cover. Then you have to add the intake manifold, carb, and air filter.

[Psychomoongoose]

Generation 0/I pre-1985 small block chevy.

Some baseline measurements for reference. This is a stock single cam KA.

The first measurement is from the rear of the core support to the front of the block.

The second measurement is frm the bottom of the valve cover to the hood ledge.

http://www.nguyenconsult.com/S13Build/ka1.jpg
http://www.nguyenconsult.com/S13Build/ka2.jpg


Small block chevy dimensions: 350 Chevy Engine Dimensions (http://www.enginefactory.com/chevdimensions.htm)

LS1 dimensions:
http://paceperformance.com/images/products/misc/webpageimages/lq4%20truck.gif


An LS1 is 28.25" from oil pan to the top of the engine.

My small block is 22" from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the valve cover. Then you have to add the intake manifold, carb, and air filter.

What i really wanted was pics of your setup. I wanna see how you modified your firewall and how low and back your setup is.

[udon!]

Just a thought, but why not just spend the money you would use on the ls1, Building your SR?

[Psychomoongoose]

Just a thought, but why not just spend the money you would use on the ls1, Building your SR?

I want something more reliable. I have an SR20 with a 2871 turbo and I cant figure out why its now misfiring. I blew the boost sensing hose off the turbo piping and ever since then, Ive had a nasty misfire after 3500 RPM. I changed the plugs, to no avail. Ive checked all the boost piping, all tight. Im sure its not the MAF being dirty cuz it worked fine before the mishap. Ive checked the coils for cracks or anything out of the ordinary. No dice. Its making me crazzy and I just want a car that runs great and I dont have to hunt down gremlins all the time. I cant really leave it anywhere to be looked at because Its my only DD. I bought cheap NGK copper plugs, and gapped them to the same as Blacktrax (in San Jose) gapped my iridium plugs at, which was .025.......still shitty. Like I said, it ran AWESOME until the boost hose came off the piping. Now it just sucks. I dont know what to do!!! I feel like ive run out of options.

[Psychomoongoose]

civ6cx still havent seen any pics of what you have. The KA24 measurements dont do anything for me, since not only do I not own a KA24, also i know exactly what those measurements are. Everyone does. The thing thats missing is your custom build, didnt you say you have the engine 6 inches into the firewall? sounds like quite a job. I want to see. I have not come across anyone who has done this yet, but then again, ive only looked at like 20 or so build threads.

[jilo]

i know youve only got good aspirations for this project, but man do your learning fiorst. if you cant diagnose a misfire, then id say spending upwards of 15k on a non native engine swap is not in yopur best intrest.

im really not tryinbg to be a dick, but id learn what you have first, then reconsider.

[Mangudai]

^ What I came in here to say.

[Psychomoongoose]

I diagnosed the misfire, it was a broken ground on the coilpacks. Anyway, I appreciate your halp, but its not really something im going to listen about anyway. Good thing im not spending 15K, only 10K hahahaha....its basically the same, I know. Whatever, did you read my first post? Do you own a LS1 s13? No? Have you driven one? Well, thanks for the input i guess...

[gippy87]

Generation 0/I pre-1985 small block chevy.

Some baseline measurements for reference. This is a stock single cam KA.

The first measurement is from the rear of the core support to the front of the block.

The second measurement is frm the bottom of the valve cover to the hood ledge.

http://www.nguyenconsult.com/S13Build/ka1.jpg
http://www.nguyenconsult.com/S13Build/ka2.jpg


Small block chevy dimensions: 350 Chevy Engine Dimensions (http://www.enginefactory.com/chevdimensions.htm)

LS1 dimensions:
http://paceperformance.com/images/products/misc/webpageimages/lq4%20truck.gif


An LS1 is 28.25" from oil pan to the top of the engine.

My small block is 22" from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of the valve cover. Then you have to add the intake manifold, carb, and air filter.
The ls1 your giving specs on there looks like its a truck ls1 which has a bigger intake mani, not sure on how much bigger but deffinitly sits higher. heres my ls1 with sikky mount kit. it sits very nice and id say even closer to the firewall then my sr was.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs687.snc4/62697_10150260216365165_550800164_14814568_2914700 _n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs634.snc4/59416_10150260216405165_550800164_14814569_6746807 _n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs431.snc4/47378_447925468912_514323912_4911258_2448664_n.jpg

[Psychomoongoose]

[QUOTE=gippy87;3646538]The ls1 your giving specs on there looks like its a truck ls1 which has a bigger intake mani, not sure on how much bigger but deffinitly sits higher. heres my ls1 with sikky mount kit. it sits very nice and id say even closer to the firewall then my sr was.

Ya, your pics look very similar to the way mine sits. Crazy, im using the Sikky stuff too. We will just have to see how different the handling is ourselves, huh grippy87? How close are you to finishing your project? I just got to make exhaust, do the wiring and hook up the fuel. Im pretty excited.

[gippy87]

I'm very excited to see how it performs. I've had a 350rwhp SR and it was awesome so I hoping this is equal or better. Also I'm down to fuel Wiring and exhaust as well. My fuel filter/regulator came in I just have to install it. Also my exhaust piping came in so I just need time to make up a y pipe. Wiring was easier than I thought but I still haven't tested it. I'm hoping for a first start within the next couple of days

[Psychomoongoose]

YouTube - IMG_0070.MOV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gB2iy-hnbyc)

I need to fix the idling issue. Other than that, just gotta build the exhaust and cooling system, and extend the wiring harness. So stoked! Cant wait.

[Butcher240sx]

I've been watching this thread for a while and decided to ask the obvios qu
estion no oneasked the op, What problems are you sr giving you? Not enough torque I assume? 270hp isn't bad in a small car. I drove my friends ls1 s13 while he was in Iraq 2 years ago. It was very fast and had lots of torque accross the rpmband. Whenhe told how much he spent on the swap I laughed my ass off. I won't tell because I don't want to start another 2 page price war. But it wasn't cheap! I just bought another 240 and if I do a swap it will be for a vg30et from a z31. I had sevral early model z31 cars,and it will make good power cheaply. I can get a running vg dirt cheap. My friend sold the 240ls at a big lossand bought a 95z32tt with 45k miles for 10 grand.its a much better daily driver. Having build and driven v8 for all my life yourtires will need to be in the 10" to 12" width range to maimtain any traction LSD is also a must. Btw most cars go off the mountian front first ;) mabey im full of shit, I like my ka and pop up headlights.

[Psychomoongoose]

I've been watching this thread for a while and decided to ask the obvios qu
estion no oneasked the op, What problems are you sr giving you? Not enough torque I assume? 270hp isn't bad in a small car. I drove my friends ls1 s13 while he was in Iraq 2 years ago. It was very fast and had lots of torque accross the rpmband. Whenhe told how much he spent on the swap I laughed my ass off. I won't tell because I don't want to start another 2 page price war. But it wasn't cheap! I just bought another 240 and if I do a swap it will be for a vg30et from a z31. I had sevral early model z31 cars,and it will make good power cheaply. I can get a running vg dirt cheap. My friend sold the 240ls at a big lossand bought a 95z32tt with 45k miles for 10 grand.its a much better daily driver. Having build and driven v8 for all my life yourtires will need to be in the 10" to 12" width range to maimtain any traction LSD is also a must. Btw most cars go off the mountian front first ;) mabey im full of shit, I like my ka and pop up headlights.

Well the problems my SR was giving me is posted earlier. I had a misfire, because I blew the boost sensing hose off the compressor outlet. Maybe it was coincidence, but I also discovered later that I had a broken ground for the coilpacks. Anyway, after that I got some new sparkplugs and gapped em correctly. After that, It was better but not perfect. I talked to a guy at Formula D about it, he is the tuner at Garage Boso. He told me he tuned 90% of the cars there, and I believed him. Anyway, he said It sounds like I needed a retune. I got a Power FC btw. The engine is out of the car now, and its in my friends car.

Anyway I wanted the LS1 because Im kinda an idiot. I know its going to throw the chassis off a little bit and it has more TQ than I really need. The 270WHP SR was a lot of fun, but it kept giving me problems. I just want to have a reliable, fun S13. Its not cheap. I could have an S2000 or something like that for what I paid. My next purchase is 18x9 and 18x10 wheels. I do have a Kaaz 1.5 way so that is good.

[1991ls13]

could have saved money and bought mine my friend. :)

[H4ck3d4l1f3]

How's the car running now?

[1991ls13]

hope hes done by now

[Psychomoongoose]

I was for about a day. Got the car on the road, and drove it around the block. 3 days later I tried to start the car. Wouldnt turn over. Long story short, pulled the engine and dis-assembled. #2 and #3 crank bearings seized. Got so hot that the block cracked. Something must have plugged the oil holes or something. Anyway, was driving my DD 94 civic and some really nice guy ran a red light and totaled it. The civic that I payed $1200 to purchase returned me a cool $3400 from their insurance. So, with that money, I went to CNC-Motorsports and bought a 383 Stroker LS1 with superlight rods and pistons. 10.8:1 compression. It is done being assemble finally, and should be here by the end of month. Then, just bought some other cool stuff like a Clutch Masters LMC clutch and an accusump oiler. Gotta save some more dough to buy a different cam and pushrods, and some springs, and then get the bitch assembled. Hopefully everything else will go as planned and I dont run into any more hoe-ass problems.

[Psychomoongoose]

YouTube - ‪Stroked 6.2 Liter LS1 383 Cubes Nissan S13 240sx hatch Donuts‬‏ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Zbyaph72Mg)

FINISHED NOW

With the Sikky front swaybar, the chassis dynamics have changed quite a bit. Thats all I have to say about the handling. The car is too precious to take around any corners too fast. It FUCKING RULES.