View Full Version : SR20DET: Welp, I stripped the GD feed bolt...
Well I just finished drilling out my broken exhaust mani stud and got the new ones in and was in the process of putting everything back together. I got to the turbo oil feed line and I made sure to line/tighten it up by hand and the effing thing just kept spinning pulled it out and noticed some ruined threads on the bolt @#%@%@#%.
So basically I need to know some options from someone who has gone through this before....don't have much to spend(budget = $150) to fix this problem so cheaper options are preferred.
i've always wanted to get an AN fitting and get it welded to the block.
i've always wanted to get an AN fitting and get it welded to the block.
That would be a good option, but the motor is in the car and I have no means of taking it out at the moment.
VQMaxFan
06-28-2010, 08:39 PM
You can helicoil it and use your original bolt.
You can plug it and put a tee on the oil pressure switch and use it as your oil feed, you would need a new line obviously and a restrictor if you don't have one.
You can try to tap it to something like 1/2" NPT and get an adapter.
Goodluck!
You can helicoil it and use your original bolt.
You can plug it and put a tee on the oil pressure switch and use it as your oil feed, you would need a new line obviously and a restrictor if you don't have one.
You can try to tap it to something like 1/2" AN and get an adapter.
Goodluck!
Thanks for the quick response. So I could take a slightly bigger bolt and cap it? I do have a really long SS braided line that I can use but not sure which AN size it is. I have an sandwich adapter where my oil filter goes would that source provide sufficient pressure to the turbo?
Also what are the thread sizes for the T25 turbo feed so I can look up some AN fittings?
aaronbaird
06-28-2010, 08:54 PM
don't helicoil it! this same thing happened to me. there is an SAE thread you can tap it to without drilling, and you will have to get an AN fitting. it worked for me, but i forget what size it was.
duffman1278
06-28-2010, 08:59 PM
If the threads on the bolt are stripped, then get a die that's the same size and thread pitch and see if that works. If the threads in the hole are stripped, then I don't really know, because you don't want shavings going in there.
onehundredoctane
06-28-2010, 09:00 PM
i've always wanted to get an AN fitting and get it welded to the block.
why not get the proper AN adapter fitting??
don't helicoil it! this same thing happened to me. there is an SAE thread you can tap it to without drilling, and you will have to get an AN fitting. it worked for me, but i forget what size it was.
Yea, I've heard of people doing this on a few other forums but no one ever provides information.
Anyone happen to know SAE size?
If the threads on the bolt are stripped, then get a die that's the same size and thread pitch and see if that works. If the threads in the hole are stripped, then I don't really know, because you don't want shavings going in there.
The bolt itself is fine, its the threads in the block that seem to be stripped, when I put the bolt in, it just spins freely without ever tightening up. :(
JRwerks
06-28-2010, 10:32 PM
I just plugged up the block where the oil comes
from and ran a stainless steel line from my turbo and got my source of oil from the oil filter I used a sandwhich plate went between oil filter and block.. Same thing happened to my old oil filter
looks like I'm going with getting the oil from another source(SS line to sandwich adaptor)....going to the aircraft supply store for fittings later on.
Only other thing I'm worried about is would a -3/-4 line be ok without a restrictor on a stock T25; I'll go do some searching on that.
lazysk8er2
06-29-2010, 12:55 PM
i used a helicoil and it only lasted about 3 months. it just pours out now. AN fittings are possibly my next step since i dont have the means to take the motor out of the car now.
would like to find out which fittings are best to use i have after market stainless steel lines.
btw the bolt is m12 x 1.25 stock.
I went and bought a 7/16-24 to -4 AN & a 1/8th NPT to -4(built in restrictor) hooked everything up and capped the factory hole on the block. Started the car and so far so good, I do have a small oil leak at the cap though; so I'm trying a few things to get it sealed off.
lazysk8er2
06-29-2010, 04:15 PM
got any pics?
herro prease.
got any pics?
herro prease.
let me get some in a minute.....I ended up capping the oil supply on the block with a bigger course thread hex bolt since I have no intentions of reusing it in the future and if I do I'll just drill it out and retap it.
EDIT: I couldn't get a picture of the bolt I used to seal the oil supply on the block for what it's worth here's a pic of the dirty ass engine; you can see the SS line I used to run from the turbo to the sandwich plate.
So in summary this is what I used:
M12x1.75 bolt *used to seal block*
long ass -4 AN SS braided line
7/16-24 to -4 AN *fitting used coming off the oil supply on turbo*
1/8th NPT to -4( used this on the sandwich plate has a built in .50 restrictor *T25 calls for .60 though*)
That's all I used really besides teflon tape on the AN fittings.
http://i50.tinypic.com/rr000n.jpg
lazysk8er2
06-29-2010, 07:59 PM
how bout putting that fitting coming out of the block to an oil restrictor to an ss line.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-75296653020333_2071_4670039
i just feel that line going across is annoying hahaha
how bout putting that fitting coming out of the block to an oil restrictor to an ss line.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-75296653020333_2071_4670039
i just feel that line going across is annoying hahaha
yea i agree, it's an eyesore but the car is leak free, just drove it pretty hard 80 miles to Los Angeles and back and its good to go. I might consider re-doing the setup later though.
VQMaxFan
06-29-2010, 09:17 PM
You are not supposed to put teflon on AN fittings. They are flared.
n240sxfnatic
06-29-2010, 09:24 PM
DIY stripped oil feed sr20det : 240sx General Discussion (http://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-stripped-oil-feed-sr20det-t443899.html)
DONE!
Looks like i have to go back through the removal process again, for some stupid reason my turbo manifold bolts keep backing out; I've bought copper lock nuts but now the studs are loosening up. :rant: :rant2:
I hope my Coolant line doesn't strip this time because it was kind of tough getting it tightened the last time.
Mine failed as well at maybe 4 in-lbs(it yielded with my threading it by my fingers, definitely not enough thread engagement once the aluminum fatigues a bit).
The stripped hole is the perfect size to tap to a 1/4" NPT. Easy to clean the bits of aluminum out after tapping, and a 1/4 NPT to -4 AN fitting will fit right in. Wrap the NPT threads in teflon tape - done, no leaks.
lazysk8er2
07-05-2010, 01:26 PM
I have a question. I dont have an oil restrictor at the moment (2871r) so was wondering can i get one of those fittings with the restrictor in it as well and have it coming out the block?
I found this also. Could be used with the stock bolt i guess.
http://www.turbinetech.ca/photo/enginemisc/Restrictor.JPG
lazysk8er2
07-14-2010, 10:33 PM
AAAAAnd its fixed
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/lazysk8er2/0714101701-01.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/lazysk8er2/0714101701-00.jpg
I have Russel SS lines. Tapped out the fitting in the block to 1/4 npt male to 1/8 female. Then got another fitting screwed into it which is a 1/8 npt to a 3AN male to male fitting. the ss line screws into the 3an. Used thread lock on the NPT fittings ONLY (like teflon tape but in a squeeze tube).
Sliderintrainin
09-22-2012, 06:36 PM
use high temp thread sealant. not thread locker or teflon tape. any parts store has it.
Sliderintrainin
09-22-2012, 06:43 PM
More info
If you are using Dif lines the oil feed is -3an, which is 3/16.
Use 1/4 npt to 3/16. Use thread sealant on the threads after the first thread.Tighten up and let cure for 24 hours and your good to go.
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