KA hesitation problems

[impact02]

Ok so my ka24de had been giving me hell recently. After it reaches normal temp it starts to hesitate around 4-5k rpm and wont let me go past it kinda like its hitting fuel cut or something. The longer I drive the lower rpm it happens so it will go from 4k to 3k to 2k and then i cant even drive it. I pull over and shut it down for a minute and then its fine for a few minutes then happens again. I've changed dist cap, rotor, plugs, wires, temp sensors, fuel filter, fuel pump, and I've swapped in other ecu's and maf's and its all still the same. The only thing I haven't tried yet is the distibutor and injectors. Anyone have a similar problem and fixed it?

[jdm213]

is the idle rough ?

[steve shadows]

Sounds like the distributor to me.

I would make sure your Intake pipe is in good shape, no vacuum leaks etc. This can cause this. Make sure something isnt keeping the motor from breathing well.

Is your CAT clogged? Make sure your CAT is not falling apart and clogging the flow of air out of your engine. this will cause this issue also. Also make sureyou intake pipe is not collapsing on itself or is metal or solid

[impact02]

idle is ok it has some real minor missing but nothing that will cause it to idle badly. I checked the intake pipe and its all good, no leaks and its a solid pipe, cat is punched out also. I'm thinking it has to be electrical cause it happens after it warms up so I'm thinking something is building resistance and causing problems. I'm leaning more towards the distributor but I figured I'd see if anyone has had a similar prob and how did they fix it

[GroundHog]

distributor, something related to spark

[trigun808]

if you can find someone with another ka, try swapping mafs. See that does anything at all.

[c-los13]

have the same problem
my egr isnt completly connected (lost two of the bolts :/ )
ima get that fixed tomorrow
i read something bout connecting a ground from the battery to chassis,
it worked for some guy, search that. it might help

[Z U L8R]

while you're throwing parts at it, you could try an o2 sensor since you haven't tried one yet, but i've never seen an o2 sensor make a car undriveable lol.

seriously though, any codes out of the ecu? that's where you should've started imo.

Dave

P.S. fwiw, the reason i've been posting so freaking much on Zilvia is because ,

A. it's a good site (does a little ass kissing :P )
B. i have a lot more "chill" time at my new job
C. i like helping people
D. every other forum is completely dead
E. i'd say i have no life, and i'm a total car nerd, but only the latter part of that is true. my life is actually busy as hell....i actually find it quite relaxing to come on here and help other peoples, so after a long day, it's how i unwind. hopefully you guys don't mind me post whoring it up.

i'ma make a T-shirt "ZILVIA....it's how I relax"

Latez

[ADiamond240sx]

Does the car throw any code? Knock will make the car have absolutely no power if the ECU retards the timing stupid amounts due to false detections of knock. Likewise, a really annoying problem that can make the car sluggish once it is warm (not no power, but sluggish) is the temp sensor (not the one that runs to the cluster). It's like 30 bucks to get a new one. I had sluggish issues and chased the problem for almost a month before I discovered the temp sensor as the culprit and replaced it. I would suggest running a self diagnostic before throwing more money at random parts however.

[buentellomma]

it sounds like your mafs. i had this same problem on my sr20 a few weeks ago. i checked my mafs and one of the wires were slightly bent. also your mafs could be dirty...

[trigun808]

I have this excat same problem right now......... its sucks
i have a 1996 ka24de. I have replaced spark plugs, spark wires, distrubter, maf, o2 sensors. I ran a diganostic test and it said my front o2 sensor and my EVAP valve.
What i think i might have is either A. VACUUM LEAK B. FUEL FILTER C. FUEL PUMP, or D. FUEL INJECTORS.
She runs beautiful cold until warm then it idles shitty boggs out at 4rpms and it works its way down to 15rpm... it sucks man.. it really does..

[buentellomma]

does it idle surge? up and down a lot? that could be vac leak, for that you can spray starter fluid around intake and vac hoses and if the motor rpms change then you have your leak. fuel filter is super easy to change and they cost about 12$, that would be the next thing i would check. i had this issue with my sr and it was a bent wire on the mafs.

[kushlivin]

while you're throwing parts at it, you could try an o2 sensor since you haven't tried one yet, but i've never seen an o2 sensor make a car undriveable lol.

seriously though, any codes out of the ecu? that's where you should've started imo.

Dave

P.S. fwiw, the reason i've been posting so freaking much on Zilvia is because ,

A. it's a good site (does a little ass kissing :P )
B. i have a lot more "chill" time at my new job
C. i like helping people
D. every other forum is completely dead
E. i'd say i have no life, and i'm a total car nerd, but only the latter part of that is true. my life is actually busy as hell....i actually find it quite relaxing to come on here and help other peoples, so after a long day, it's how i unwind. hopefully you guys don't mind me post whoring it up.

i'ma make a T-shirt "ZILVIA....it's how I relax"

Latez
^^Well said dude^^

[SMM]

I am having a similar problem see my thread