Ultimate S13 SR wiring guide

[g6civcx]

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[g6civcx]

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[SleepR 240sx]

Best guide I've seen. This should help a ton of people.

[g6civcx]

I'm working on the lower harness as well as guides on how to fit into USDM S13 and S14 bodies as well. Stay tuned.

[DataXUnknown]

A lot of people need help with the s14 SR into S13 chassis I've noticed recently, some shops can't even get it right. This is definitely a good writeup though, I will need this come May 2010.

[GSXRJJordan]

Haha, thats what you needed the tach probe port ID'd for? NICE! This is great!

[Om1kron]

my reverse lights don't work... i'm going to flip the wires and see what happens lol.

[g6civcx]

my reverse lights don't work... i'm going to flip the wires and see what happens lol.

It doesn't matter. What year is your chassis (96?) and was it originally automatic?

[Om1kron]

it's a 96 although the door sticker says made in 95...

the cluster for sure was fucked with... i changed the temp sensor to the ka one and it still doesn't read temp as well.

[GSXRJJordan]

Cluster doesn't matter. Reverse sensor in the tranny completes the circuit, so polarity doesn't matter - power comes through the lower tranny harness plug (grey 8 pin) and back through that plug to the SMJ to the lights (which are grounded in the trunk). There's a couple of wires off the fusebox that are the same color, probably mixed em up in the fusebox relocation...

... I know I did the first time lol.

[g6civcx]

it's a 96 although the door sticker says made in 95...

Was it auto?

i changed the temp sensor to the ka one and it still doesn't read temp as well.

The thermal transmitter is the same across the board. So the problem is somewhere else. Either the cluster is bad or the wiring is bad.

[g6civcx]

Sometimes I feel like I'm smoking some good stuff.

[bardabe]

I found an error on the FR Sport's guide: SR20DET Swap Engine Harness Wiring Diagram Guide SR SR20 (http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html)

The fuel pump wire is Black/Purple, not Black/Pink like they said.

sorry to correct you bro, but OEM nissan harnesses are Black / pink. if it's black / purple it's a replacement harness. Ive done enough SR harnesses that i noticed it, Ive done mostly used OEM harnesses. quite a few OEM Nissan Brand new ones, that for a fact where black/pink and a couple New Harnesses that where no OEM nissan and that wire indeed is Black/purple.

[g6civcx]

sorry to correct you bro, but OEM nissan harnesses are Black / pink. if it's black / purple it's a replacement harness. Ive done enough SR harnesses that i noticed it, Ive done mostly used OEM harnesses. quite a few OEM Nissan Brand new ones, that for a fact where black/pink and a couple New Harnesses that where no OEM nissan and that wire indeed is Black/purple.

I have both a brand new replacement harness and a used harness that came off of a front clip. Pin 104 on both ECU connector has Black/Purple.

I can see that the used one is starting to fade and may appear pink.

What do you think? Do you have the Japanese wiring diagram?

[bardabe]

I'll PM you the FSM diagram, its on my desktop but yes fsm states B/P

Purpple is states as PU just how BL is black and LB is Blue

[GSXRJJordan]

Agreed with Bardabe on this one, I believe the wire is labeled B/P, which would be pink, not purple. I love this discussion, is that weird?

[g6civcx]

Damn you bitches for ganging up on me.

But I checked again and it's Black/Pink. Stupid colorblindedness.

And isn't Blue "L", not "BL"?

[PhilipJdm]

wow so technical! good job guys =D

[g6civcx]

This is the lower harness for the S14 SR20DET as reference. Check the actual wire on your S13.

http://www.nguyenconsult.com/zilvia/srwiring/s13srlowerharn.jpg

E201-203: these connectors have the wires that you need to mate to the body harness. You may be able to just plug them in or you may have to cut the connectors off and redo the wiring yourself. This depends on the year and options on the shell. Since there are too many variations in the body harness, I can't cover them all. Just know that any wire you need to connect to the body harness will be done at these plugs as indicated below.

E204: 1 ring terminal. White. Connect to the battery positive terminal. Keep in mind that sometimes JDM battery terminals are smaller and you may have to enlarge the terminal. You can clip the terminal off and get a custom terminal with the right size at your local auto parts store.

E205: 1 ring terminal. White. Main power. Connect to the 75A or 100A fusible link at the underhood fusebox. Look at where the stock lower harness bolts to. This is where you bolt the E205 connector. Make sure that you bolt this opposite of the battery on the 75/100A main fusible link. The SR ring may need to be enlarged in some cases to fit the body.

E206: 1 ring terminal. Black. This is the ground wire for the alternator. Connect this ring terminal to the bolt behind the underhood relay box.

E207: 3 connectors:

1) Large insulated ring terminal. White. Connect to the large stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E205.

2) Small ring terminal. Black. Connect to the small stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E206.

3) Large 2pin connector. Connect to the alternator.
White: fused constant power. This wire goes to E205.
White/Red: CHARGE warning lamp in the gauge cluster. Not needed. This wire is connected to the E201-203 connectors. Verify continuity as needed and connect to the correct wire on the body. Otherwise this is not needed to make the engine run.

E208: Unknown connector and colours. This is for the EGR. Wires are connected to E201-203. Not needed.

E209: large black plug. Yellow/White. Not needed. Check the E201-203 connectors for continuity and connect to the OIL light if needed, but not necessary to run the engine.

E210: black 1pin. Black/Yellow. Connect to the starter solenoid. Check the E201-203 connector for continuity, and connect to the starter solenoid signal on the body.

E211: 2wire grey connector. Yellow/Black and Yellow/Blue. Vehicle Speed Sensor. Not needed. Otherwise check continuity at the E201-203 connectors and hook up to the VSS circuit on the body. It doesn't matter which wires get connected to which on the body. Current can flow either way through the switch. Not need to make the engine run.

E212: 2wire grey connector. Green/Blue and Green/White. Reverse lights. Not needed. Otherwise check continuity at the E201-203 connectors and hook up to the reverse light circuit on the body. It doesn't matter which wires get connected to which on the body. Current can flow either way through the switch. Not need to make the engine run.

E213: 2wire grey connector. Unknown wires. Neutral switch. Not needed.

[AWDtoyota]

Is it possible to get a larger picture of the above diagram? It is difficult to make out the numbers/letters.

[g6civcx]

Hit refresh and try again. I just updated the pix.

[Brew]

This is the lower harness for the S13 SR20DET

That's an S14.

Good work on the write-up though. I've been thinking about putting one of these up but haven't had the time to write it out... good to see someone else do it.

I've done the S13 SR into S14 and S14 SR into S13... I see a lot of these questions come up so I may put some info up in this thread if you don't mind... cool?

[g6civcx]

That's an S14.

This is the closest thing I have. If you have a Japanese translation then feel free to post it up.

The SR connector numbers aren't as important as knowing what the connector does.

Good work on the write-up though. I've been thinking about putting one of these up but haven't had the time to write it out... good to see someone else do it.

I've done the S13 SR into S14 and S14 SR into S13... I see a lot of these questions come up so I may put some info up in this thread if you don't mind... cool?

Please do.

[g6civcx]

S13 SR into OBDII 1996 S14 240SX. Minimum required to run.

The S14 engine harness has the wipers and ABS (optional), whereas these things are on the body of the S13. The easiest way to make this swap work is to unplug the engine harness, but leave the entire S14 engine harness plugged to the car because this harness has all the sensors you will need.

The other main difference is that the ECCS relay is on the engine harness on the S14 and sits next to the ECU, whereas the S13 has the ECCS relay in the underhood relay box.

All wiring will be done at the big white S14 F3 plug and the ECCS relay that sits next to the ECU area. The F3 is the biggest plug in that area.

Dash Plug
Orange - Start Signal, connect to F3 pin 34 Orange

These wires will need to go back into the ECU area. The easiest way is to unloom the main harness and pull these wires back into the interior. Then shorten as needed.

Brown Plug
Red/Black - ECU relay ground pin controlled by pin 4 of ECU, connect to ECCS relay pin 1 Red/Black
Brown - Power source for all sensors, connect to ECCS relay pin 3 Black/White
Black/Pink - fuel pump relay ground pin controlled by pin 104 of ECU, connect to F3 pin 11 Black/Pink

Big Grey Plug
Blue/Red - coil pack power, connect to F3 pin 1 thick Black/Red wire
Black/Red - ingition power, connect to F3 pin 1 thick Black/Red wire
Blue/Yellow - AAC valve power, helps idle, connect to ECCS relay pin 3 Black/White
Black/White - ECU power to pin 47 and 38 of ECU, connect to F3 pin 1 thick Black/Red wire
Red - ECU Backup power to pins 46 and 109 of ECU, follow pin 17 Red on the F3 plug all the way to the S14 ECU plug. Clip the wires on the S14 ECU plug and connect to this Red wire.

Lower harness:

E204: 1 ring terminal. White. Connect to the battery positive terminal.

E205: 1 ring terminal. White. Main power. Connect to the 75A or 100A fusible link at the underhood fusebox.

E206: 1 ring terminal. Black. This is the ground wire for the alternator.

E207: 3 connectors:

1) Large insulated ring terminal. White. Connect to the large stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E205.

2) Small ring terminal. Black. Connect to the small stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E206.

3) Large 2pin connector. Connect to the alternator.
White: fused constant power. This wire goes to E205.
White/Red: CHARGE warning lamp in the gauge cluster. Not needed.

E210: black 1pin. Black/Yellow. Connect to the starter solenoid. Check the E201-203 connector for continuity, and connect to the starter solenoid signal on the body.


Your S13 SR in OBDII should now run. Good luck.

[PerilousActs]

This post is awesome! Thanks a ton, this will come in handy when I make my custom harness.

[Om1kron]

to answer the question.

BL is always black...
L is blue.
LB is light blue.

[bardabe]

to answer the question.

BL is always black...
L is blue.
LB is light blue.

beat me to it, and yes that was my mistake, I have to give it to Simmone on this one. :kiss:

[Om1kron]

Yes... it's why it's always best to have an fsm el section or whatever section's wiring drawn up with the color scheme before you start screwing with stuff.

The chassis wiring in the 95-96 is different from the 97-98 just so slightly. And will throw some things off in my experience.

[g6civcx]

Some people are selling this wiring guide stuff on ebay. I offered to pay them but requested that they give me a refund if I find an error in their wiring schematic.

So far no one has agreed to give me a refund if I find an error. It shows that they're not confident in their wiring and/or are just greedy.

[datboibrad]

shit where was this thread months ago lol good stuff.

[conrad_s13.5]

Brown Plug, 8 pin, 3 pins empty, cut and rewire as necessary
Red/Black - ECU relay ground pin controlled by pin 4 of ECU, connect to ground pin of ECU relay
Brown - Power source for all sensors, connect to switched power
Green/Yellow - AC relay, not needed
Black/Pink - fuel pump relay ground pin controlled by pin 104 of ECU, connect to ground pin of fuel pump relay
Green/Orange - park/neutral position to pin 35, not needed

what exactly does this mean?

[GSXRJJordan]

what exactly does this mean?

It means this connects to an ignition-switched power source.

[Tom25666]

this is a noob question but how do i hook up the wire for the light on an after market boost gauge?

[GSXRJJordan]

this is a noob question but how do i hook up the wire for the light on an after market boost gauge?

Not a noob question at all ~ you want the light to come on with the marker/parking lights as well as the headlights, so you just need to tee or splice into the green/red wire coming out of the S13/S14 turn signal harness. Double check as I haven't messed with gauge wiring for about a year, but that should give you +12V with the lights switch on the 'first' or 'second' click, and no volts on 'off'.

[g6civcx]

this is a noob question but how do i hook up the wire for the light on an after market boost gauge?

Depends on how much power you want to pull.

If you're just pulling a small bulb, then you can piggyback on the illumination circuit, like the radio illumination wire.

If you're looking to pull big power, like big strobe lights or other audio equipment, then run the illumination power to a relay and pull power from the battery with the relay.

[Tom25666]

there is a green/red wire and a red/green wire lol. i'm looking through the wiring diagrams now but holy shit

*edit
use the red w/ green stripe wire. only comes on when lights are fully on
the green w/ red stripe wire is hot all the time, even with the keys out and lights off

[misfitsfreak81]

just a quick question... the yellow/red wire thats in pin #3 of the main ecu harness, the one the is labled "Tachometer Signal Output" what exactly does that connect to in the engine bay? the reason i ask is that im not getting a tach signal in the Haltech software and cant seem to find what component it goes to in the fsm. someone should have an answer on this. thanks in advance

mike

[GSXRJJordan]

there is a green/red wire and a red/green wire lol. i'm looking through the wiring diagrams now but holy shit

*edit
use the red w/ green stripe wire. only comes on when lights are fully on
the green w/ red stripe wire is hot all the time, even with the keys out and lights off

Whoops, guess I gave you the wrong color. Check for which one's hot with the marker lights/tail lights on lol, sounds like you're on your way.

[misfitsfreak81]

Whoops, guess I gave you the wrong color. Check for which one's hot with the marker lights/tail lights on lol, sounds like you're on your way.

was this in reply to my question? it doesnt seem like it. anyway, my tach has always worked since i did the sr swap years ago. now that i have the haltech though its not seeing a tach signal. does the cas send tach pulses to the ecu?

[GSXRJJordan]

was this in reply to my question? it doesnt seem like it. anyway, my tach has always worked since i did the sr swap years ago. now that i have the haltech though its not seeing a tach signal. does the cas send tach pulses to the ecu?

No, I didn't quote your post, I quoted the one above it.

In response to your question, no the CAS does not send tach signals to the ECU, the ECU sends tach signals to the Tach. If you can't get a tach output from the Haltech, there are many tach adapters on the market you can use.

[misfitsfreak81]

No, I didn't quote your post, I quoted the one above it.

In response to your question, no the CAS does not send tach signals to the ECU, the ECU sends tach signals to the Tach. If you can't get a tach output from the Haltech, there are many tach adapters on the market you can use.

its not that i cant get an output from the haltech, its that the haltech is not seeing a tach signal. the yellow/red wire from pin 3 of the nissan conector runs to pin 18 on the haltech 36 pin conector. there is continuity between the two and the conections are fine. im wondering where the tach signal comes from that goes to the haltech. in other words where would the oem ecu pickup the tach signal from to show that the engine is moving?

[GSXRJJordan]

its not that i cant get an output from the haltech, its that the haltech is not seeing a tach signal. the yellow/red wire from pin 3 of the nissan conector runs to pin 18 on the haltech 36 pin conector. there is continuity between the two and the conections are fine. im wondering where the tach signal comes from that goes to the haltech. in other words where would the oem ecu pickup the tach signal from to show that the engine is moving?

The ECU *creates* the tach signal. The test pin for it in the engine bay is literally the same wire as the tach sees, which comes *from* the ECU. The rotational information from the engine comes from the cam angle sensor, which spins at half the RPM of the engine, and has a 'home' and 'trigger' signal, and the ECU fires the coils and injectors off that.

[misfitsfreak81]

The ECU *creates* the tach signal. The test pin for it in the engine bay is literally the same wire as the tach sees, which comes *from* the ECU. The rotational information from the engine comes from the cam angle sensor, which spins at half the RPM of the engine, and has a 'home' and 'trigger' signal, and the ECU fires the coils and injectors off that.

yes you are correct that the ecu sees engine rotation from the cas, this is also where the ecu "creates" the tach signal. directly from the cas. im pretty sure that i have my issues figured out. i had a bit of help from steve at shadowerks, we think that the cas is going in and out so its only working sometimes with no apparent reason as to why. i have ordered another cas just to be sure. in the meantime i have TOTALLY taken apart the cas and was surprised at how noncomplex the insides are. took it apart to clean it thoroughly. hopefully when i put it back together the piece of shit will work. if not oh well, at least i know what they look like and that they can be disassembled for cleaning.

[cavakilla]

IIRC the nissan tach signal has a different pulse per second rate than most tach signals. i dont remember exactly what it is though. i am suprised haltech does not know this...

[ka24det92]

ok you guys seem like you know what your talking about so i have a question i have a s13 black top engine but it runs on a redtop pfc it runs fine except the o2 sensor dose not read. When you look at o2 on the pfc it shows nothing. I was wondering if the o2 sensors are diff from a s13 red top to a s13 black top and maybe i need to switch some pins on the o2 or maybe switch some pins at the ecu. Every thing else runs fine i can see all my sensors except for my o2 any help would be great.

[Mister.E]

don't the blacktop's run the fatter O2 sensor like S14's?

i believe that the skinny O2 meant for the redtop puts out a different voltage signal. whether or not that would cause the problem im not sure. hopefully someone else can chime in.

[ka24det92]

thanks any help is appreciated

[GSXRJJordan]

don't the blacktop's run the fatter O2 sensor like S14's?

i believe that the skinny O2 meant for the redtop puts out a different voltage signal. whether or not that would cause the problem im not sure. hopefully someone else can chime in.

They do, but the signals are very similar as I recall. I ran a blacktop (fat) o2 sensor in my redtop for years, always ran the same. I don't think that's the problem.

[Mister.E]

hmmm, i have no idea what it could be then. are you sure the O2 sensor is good?

[ka24det92]

hmmm, i have no idea what it could be then. are you sure the O2 sensor is good?


maybe your right i might just need to get a new o2 sensor that way at least i know its good

[adamja87]

i have a blacktop that im wiring up right now. not sure if this is discussed but i have (or what appears to be) multiple brown wires on the power interface side of the harness. the original plugs were cut off all the way down to where the harness branches off to the maf and powersteering switch etc. no tach check or coil #1 check. are all these brown wires wired together and then to 12v switched?

[g6civcx]

are all these brown wires wired together and then to 12v switched?

I am hesitant to say. It's best to trace each wire to where it's going before randomly giving it power.

[adamja87]

I am hesitant to say. It's best to trace each wire to where it's going before randomly giving it power.

well i traced the wires back and 2 of the 3 brown wires go to the boost control solenoid and the other valve thing on the ignitor chip bracket. the other brown wire goes to the o2 sensor im assuming cuz it branches off into that direction

[g6civcx]

well i traced the wires back and 2 of the 3 brown wires go to the boost control solenoid and the other valve thing on the ignitor chip bracket. the other brown wire goes to the o2 sensor im assuming cuz it branches off into that direction

Do you have a question?

[LAFURIA2010]

awesome.. exactly what i was looking for

[punn303]

very helpful......thanks

[jvega]

i have a replacement harness for my sr sr20det, it has the Black/Purple wires for the fuelpump.. And the car will not start, im having this problem:
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/368662-sr20-wiring-ground-fp-problem.html

[coupekidz13]

can someone please hook me uup with a s13 hatch dash harness diagram? The guy before me had ripped apart the ignition wiring for a push button start and i bought a OEM harness and have no idea what goes where. Thanks!

[GL Chrillz]

what does it mean "switched power"?
O2 Sensor Plug, connect to O2 sensor
1 - Brown, Power for heating element, connect to switched power

[Luvs2slide]

Switched power means that when you turn your key to different "switched" settings, it should get power.

Like On/Accessory/Start on your ignition switch.

[GL Chrillz]

gotcha. i think ive got almost every pin back in the ecu, except on the 02 sensor my wires are brown/yellow, brown, white. so i dont know which one is the ground and which one to connect to switched power. and then on the massive bit of wires that grounds on the intake manifold, and the wires for the cam angle sensor and tps and that other one in the bunch of 3, its a giant mess and i have several ground wires i cant identify what they are. any suggestions?

[JDMRIDDAZ]

very good coverage on the wiring...
although i did this the exact same way and on the s13
chassis i found that matching all the wire colors is not always good since the s13 r old
i ended up rewiring the brown and grey plug to a relay....
this will eradicate any linear issues with voltage to ecu or sensors
since i see alot of ppl with bad idle or not running correctly due to voltage issues
just trying to help

[GL Chrillz]

I just re pinned my ecu, fairly certain i put most of it in right. my engine turns over, but doesnt start. what should i be checking first?

[s14unimog]

I'd start with fuel pump or injector voltage. Then maybe ECU relay and visual confirmation of spark

[SmokeCircle]

This should be a productive bump if my schematic is complete and actually works, I'm hoping a couple of the wiring gurus can confirm this. I'm very new to wiring so i may be very far off, but I took a shot at finishing my engine harness. Here is where I'm at. Now on the alternator I have nothing coming to terminal (L) at the regulator plug. This wire comes from the charge warning lamp, which receives power from the stock fuse panel and ground on the alternator if I'm not mistaken. Anything standing out that looks incorrect here?

This is for an s13 sr20 into and s13 using a custom switch panel. I have taken the 180sx schematic and translated everything to english. So this is the correct ecu pin out as well. Not just s13 sr20 "mocked up" on the english s14 diagram, so ghetto...



http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/5968/finals13sr20wireshemati.png

[va240dude]

^^^^ Looks good man, thanks for the helpful resource!

[SmokeCircle]

I'm bumping this too see if I can get some input on the schematic I made in my last post. I'm tryin to keep the knowledge rolling in, but i need to know if I have a good grasp on this situation, you know what I mean.

[GSXRJJordan]

Is there a reason you're switching ground for everything?

Is this a track car or a 'street' car?

What are you using for a fusebox?

[SmokeCircle]

Is there a reason you're switching ground for everything?

Is this a track car or a 'street' car?

What are you using for a fusebox?

No reason why except my inexperience with any form of wiring. Before this week, I did not even know how a relay worked. I'm expecting to get some advise on how i can better it, since everything was basically learned in the past week really...

This will be on a track car that I have to drive to the track, for now. I've already made a harness to cover turning on the headlights, tail lights, brake lights, and side markers. All i got to do is knock out this diagram, and then I can get started on it.

I have not decided on anything parts wise yet, as I don't know exactly what ill be needing. If you have suggestions for quality parts or stores/vendors to use for the fuse/relay panel, I would greatly appreciate it.

nick

[GSXRJJordan]

On track cars, reliability is key, and the less components, the better (as long as everything is working within specs).

I'd go down to a single ignition relay that handles ignition signal to any other relays, as well as ECU/engine power. For a SR/RB/KA/etc 30A is plenty. For a LSx, 30A is not really enough, but works for most people.

No need for a starter relay, our starters only pull 10A or so inrush, and less than an amp maintained while cranking. I don't typically even use a separate starter fuse, unless I have a lot of other stuff on a maintained/constant 12v circuit, I just pull starter solenoid power from the ECU/engine ignition circuit since the engine pulls minimal current while cranking.

Typically I switch +12V instead of ground when using manual switches, and switch low (ground) when using ECU/standalone logic.

We can retail the components we use for most everything if people want to build stuff themselves, just send me a message with what you're looking for and I'll shoot you links to our website, or pics/pricing for stuff that's not on the site (still under construction).

[Johannes]

Waaaaaaahhhh! What happened?! :OO I'm doing my full wire tuck right now and this was my reference but OP erased it :(

[crayzwhiteboy]

yea wtf was the erase for yesterday?

[Johannes]

Anyone happen to have taken a print screen of it? Or a word document? I really need it =\. I'd be more than thankful if you do.

[Aaron4]

why did you remove this??????? i was just going to use it! :(

[Aaron4]

Annyyoonnee??

[5.0sx]

i need this too D=

[theboy]

Anyone ever find the original info or get an answer why it was taken down?

[DWvinny]

Anyone ever find the original info or get an answer why it was taken down?


^^^^^^ this ^^^^^^

[wangan_cruiser]

why did you delete the wiring diagram?

[Vatche]

why did you delete the wiring diagram?

yeh i came back to use as a resource and its gone

[SideSteppn]

A lot of people need help with the s14 SR into S13 chassis I've noticed recently, some shops can't even get it right. This is definitely a good writeup though, I will need this come May 2010.

Dont even worry about rewiring anything.. just buy this and you'll be good:

S14 SR20DET to S13 240sx Wiring Harness | Wiring Specialties (http://wiringspecialties.com/wsprs14srins3.html)

[bonesmugglar]

Dash Connector, 15-pin white plug next to the ECU
Black - ground for CONSULT, not needed
Green/White - Clock (CLK) synchronization pin for CONSULT, not needed
Green - Transmit (TX) pin for CONSULT, not needed
Red/White - Fuel Pressure Control Module, not needed
Blue/Black - Thermal Transmitter for OEM coolant temp gauge, not needed
Yellow/Red - Tach signal for OEM tach, not needed
Green/Red - Clock signal for CONSULT, not needed
Orange/Black - exhaust temp warning lamp, not needed
Green/Black - Receive (RX) pin for CONSULT, not needed
Blue/Green - Thermistor Control Amplifier, not needed
Orange - Start Signal, connect to start signal from ignition switch
Blue/White - Intake Air Temperature Sensor, not needed
Yellow/Green - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) signal from speedometer, not needed

ECU plug:

Large 64-pin connector:
1 - Coil Pack 1 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White, connect to pin 1 of ignitor chip
2 - Coil Pack 2 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red Yellow, connect to pin 2 of ignitor chip
3 - Tachometer signal output - Yellow Red, not needed
4 - ECCS Relay - Red Black, connect to ground pin of ECCS relay
5 - Ignition Pulse Monitor (IT monitor, For Trip Comp ?), not needed
6 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black, connect to ground
7 - RX data (Signal from Nissan Consult hand terminal) -Green Black, not needed
8 - Coil Pack 3 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White, connect to pin 4 of ignitor chip
9 - Coil Pack 4 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White, connect to pin 5 of ignitor chip
10 -
11 -
12 - A/T autotrans gear select - Pink Black, not needed
13 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black, connect to ground
14 - CLK clock (timing signal) - Green White, not needed
15 - TX data (signal to Nissan Consult hand terminal) - Green, not needed
16 - MAFS signal input ( Mass Air Flow Sensor ) - White, connect to signal pin of MAFS
17 - MAFS ground - Black, connect to ground pin of MAFS
18 - Water Temp Sensor input - Blue Brown, connect to positive terminal of 2-pin coolant temperature sensor
19 - Oxygen Sensor input (O2) - White, connect to middle signal pin of O2 sensor
20 - TPS input (throttle postion sensor) - White, connect to signal pin of TPS
21 - Sensor ground - Black, connect to ground
22 - CAS 180deg signal (Crank angle sensor) - White, connect to pin 1 of CAS
23 - CLK for CONSULT - Green Red, not needed
24 - Monitor check Lamp (red) (fault code lamp output), not needed
25 - Exhaust over temp warning lamp output - Orange, not needed
26 - Exhaust temp sensor (Behind the Cat) - Blue Yellow, not needed
27 - Detonation sensorinput (knock sensor) - White, connect to knock sensor
28 - TPS for A/T (kick down switch), not needed
29 - Sensor ground - Black, connect to ground
30 - CAS 180deg signal (crank angle sensor) - White, connect to pin 1 of CAS
31 - CAS 1deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Black, connect to pin 2 of CAS
32 - Speed sensor input - Yellow Green, not needed
33 -
34 - Start signal (from ignition switch) - Orange, connect to start signal from ignition switch
35 - A/T neutral switch input - Green Orange, not needed
36 - IGN (ignition ON, from ignition switch) - Black Red, connect to switched ignition power
37 - TPS power output (power to throttle position sensor) - Light Green Red, connect to pin 3 of TPS
38 - ECCS power - Black White, connect to power output pin of ECCS relay
39 - ECCS ground - Black, connect to ground
40 - CAS 1 deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Red Black, connect to pin 2 of CAS
41 - A/C on input (Air Con ON from A/C panel) - Blue Green, not needed
42 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select), not needed
43 - Power steering switch (speed proportional control output) - Purple White, not needed
44 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select), not needed
45 - Ambient air temp sensor input - Blue White, not needed
46 - ECCS backup power - Red, connect to constant power
47 - ECCS power - Black White, connect to power output pin of ECCS relay
48 - ECCS ground - Black, connect to ground
101 - Injector No. 1 drive output - White Black, connect to pin 2 of #1 injector
102 - EAI control solenoid output (egr valve control) - Orange Black, not needed
103 - Injector No.3 drive output - Green Black, connect to pin 2 of #3 injector
104 - Fuel pump relay output - Black/Pink, connect to ground pin of fuel pump relay
105 - Fuel pressure control module - Red White, not needed
106 - A/C on output (Air conditioner on relay signal) - Green Black, not needed
107 - Injector ground - Black, connect to ground
108 - Injector ground - Black, connect to ground
109 - Reverse electrical flow return circuit (alternator fail input) - Red, connect to constant power
110 - Injector No. 2 drive output - Yellow Black, connect to pin 2 of #2 injector
111 - Turbo boost pressure control solenoid (over boost cut ?) - Orange Black, not needed
112 - Injector No. 4 drive output - Blue Black, connect to pin 2 of #4 injector
113 - AAC valve control (Auxiliary Air Control, Idle speed control) - Light Blue, connect to pin 3 of AAC/FICD subharness
114 -
115 -
116 - Injector ground - Black, connect to ground

O2 Sensor Plug, connect to O2 sensor
1 - Brown, Power for heating element, connect to switched power
2 - White, Signal, connect to pin 19 of ECU and the shielded wire to ground
3 - Black , Ground, connect to ground

Coil pack harness - 5 pins, 2 rows x 3 pins per row, 1 pin blank, grey, connect to coil pack subharness
Blue/Red - coil pack power, connect to switched power
Red/Green - #4 coil signal, connect to pin A of ignitor chip
Red - #3 coil signal, connect to pin B of ignitor chip
Red/White - #2 coil signal, connect to pin C of ignitor chip
Red/Blue - #1 coil signal, connect to pin D of ignitor chip

Ground Terminals - connect to suitable chassis grounds

Injector #1, connect to #1 injector
1 - Red, power, connect to switched power
2 - White/Black, #1 injector signal, connect to pin 101 of ECU

Injector #2, connect to #2 injector
1 - Red, power, connect to switched power
2 - Yellow/Black, #2 injector signal, connect to pin 110 of ECU

Injector #3, connect to #3 injector
1 - Red, power, connect to switched power
2 - Green/Black, #3 injector signal, connect to pin 103 of ECU

Injector #4, connect to #4 injector
1 - Red, power, connect to switched power
2 - Blue/Black, #4 injector signal, connect to pin 112 of ECU

AAC valve and FICD - 4 pins, 2 pins per row X 2 rows, connect to the idle control system subharness, the FICD pins are for the AC and are not needed
1 - Blue/Red, FICD ground, goes to the Small Grey Plug, not needed
2 - Blue/Green, FICD power from AC relay, from the Small Grey Plug, not needed
3 - Sky Blue, AAC valve ground, connect to pin 113 of ECU
4 - Black/Yellow, AAC valve power, connect to switched power at the Big Grey Plug

Detonation Sensor - 2 pin, grey, connect to the knock sensor
1 - White, knock sensor signal, connect to pin 27 of ECU
2 - Black, ground, connect to ground

Coolant Temp Connector - connect to coolant temp subharness
Blue/Orange - sensor signal for coolant temp, pin 18 of ECU
Black - sensor ground, connect to ground
Blue/Black - thermal transmitter, not needed

Coolant Temperature Sensor - connect to coolant temp sensor
Blue/Orange - sensor signal for coolant temp, pin 18 of ECU
Black - sensor ground, connect to ground

Thermal Transmitter - not needed
Red - thermal transmitter, not needed

Throttle Position Sensor - connect to TPS
1 - Light Green/Red, TPS power, connect to pin 37 of ECU
2 - White, TPS signal, connect to pin 20 of ECU
3 - Black, sensor ground, connect to ground

Cam Angle Sensor - connect to CAS but DO NOT CONNECT TO IGNITOR CHIP BY ACCIDENT. These connectors are the same and will interchange if not careful.
1 - Thick White, CAS 180 degree signal, connect to pins 22, 30 and ground
2 - Thick Black, CAS 1 degree signal, connect to pins 31, 40 and ground
3 - Black/White, CAS power, connect to switched power
4 - Black, ground, connect to ground

Ignitor chip - connect to ignitor chip
1 - Red/White, #1 coil signal, connect to pin 1 of ECU
2 - Red/Yellow, #2 coil signal, connect to pin 2 of ECU
3 - Black, ground, connect to ground
4 - Red/Green, #3 coil signal, connect to pin 8 of ECU
5 - Red/Blue, #4 coil signal, connect to pin 9 of ECU
A - Red/Green - #4 coil signal, connect to coil pack subharness
B - Red - #3 coil signal, connect to coil pack subharness
C - Red/White - #2 coil signal, connect to coil pack subharness
D - Red/Blue - #1 coil signal, connect to coil pack subharness

Turbo Boost Pressure Solenoid, 2-pin, black plug, not needed
1 - Brown, power, connected to Brown Plug, not needed
2 - Orange/Black, solenoid activation signal controlled by pin 111 of ECU, not needed

EAI EGR, 2 pin, not needed
1 - Orange/Blue, activation signal controlled by pin 102 of ECU, not needed
2 - Brown, switched power, connected to Brown Plug, not needed

Power Steering Switch, 2 pin, black, not needed
Purple/White - switch power controlled by pin 43 of ECU, not needed
Black - ground, not needed

AC compressor, 1 pin, white, not needed
Blue/Green - power from the AC relay, not needed

MAFS, 4 pin, 1 pin blank, black
1 - White, MAF signal, connect to pin 16 of ECU
2 - Black, MAF ground, connect to pin 17 of ECU and ground
3 - Unknown colour, power, connect to switched power

Intake Air Temperature Sensor, 2 pin, black, not needed
Blue/White - Intake Air Temp Sensor connected to dash plug, not needed
Black - ground, not needed

#1 Coil Check Connector, 1 pin, grey cylindrical, not needed
Red - #1 coil signal connected to check resistor, not needed

Tach Check connector, 1 pin, grey cylindrical, not needed
Yellow/Red - tach signal on pin 3 of ECU, not needed

#1 Coil Check Connector Resistor, 2 pin, brown plug, not needed
Red/Blue - #1 coil signal from ignitor chip, not needed
Red - check connector, not needed

Brown Plug, 8 pin, 3 pins empty, cut and rewire as necessary
Red/Black - ECU relay ground pin controlled by pin 4 of ECU, connect to ground pin of ECU relay
Brown - Power source for all sensors, connect to switched power
Green/Yellow - AC relay, not needed
Black/Pink - fuel pump relay ground pin controlled by pin 104 of ECU, connect to ground pin of fuel pump relay
Green/Orange - park/neutral position to pin 35, not needed

Small Grey Plug, 6 pin, 2 pins empty, not needed
Black - ground, not needed
Blue/Yellow - exhaust temp sensor signal to pin 26 of ECU, not needed
Blue/Green - AC power, not needed
Blue/Red - FICD ground, not needed

Big Grey Plug, 8 pin, 2 pins empty, cut off and rewire as needed
Blue/Red - coil pack power, connect to switched power
Black/Red - ingition power, connect to switched power
Blue/Yellow - AAC valve power, connect to switched power
Black/White - ECU power to pin 47 and 38 of ECU, connect to switched power
Blue/Green - power from the AC relay, power goes to the AC compressor and the FICD, not needed
Red - ECU Backup power to pins 46 and 109 of ECU, connect to constant power

[bonesmugglar]

i saved it last year :)

[1slicktwo4oh]

Thanks dude....^^^^needed this to go thru my harness and find my fuel pump problem..

[1slicktwo4oh]

>>>>>>>>>^^^^^^^^gone