S13 sr20det wont keep idle!

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

The motor Is brand new rebuild so everything Is solid.. SO here's what happens. Its turns on with no problems at all. Hold a steady idle at 1000 for like half a second then just drops down and idles at like 100 barley staying on.

The timing Is perfect.
Maf Is good.
No boost leaks at all
.all clamps.hoses.vac lines have been checked.
Its getting fuel and spark.
Still stock fuel pump but putting walbro In tomorrow
All parts have been tested on working sr's.

I'm thinking It could be the IIcv or what ever that thing is called. Idle control valve? Any input would be great! If you rev the eninge holding throttle fully open It will jump up and idle perfect but then drop right back down to 100. Battery Is still In the front with new 2 gauge ground cable and a Red top OPTIMA.

[Sileighty_85]

Adjust the IACV or tighten the throttle cable a little bit

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Adjust the IACV or tighten the throttle cable a little bit

Its wierd even with the throttle wide open It takes about 5 secs for It to kick back up to 1000 and if you let go It just dies right back down.. I've adjusted The Iacv that's the scew you adjust right? COuld It be possible that maybe the whole unit Is not working?

[Sileighty_85]

could be possible, clean it out with some MAF cleaner

what color is the exhaust is it black?

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

could be possible, clean it out with some MAF cleaner

what color is the exhaust is it black?

There Is currently no exhaust hooked up but there Is no smoke of any sort coming out.. It does make a popping sounds like Its running dirt rich! I'll go ahead and clean It out though!

[Sileighty_85]

If its running rich then that probably why it idleing like that

did you cap off the BOV recirc on the turbo intake pipe?

Also are you running the Vavle cover "T" vent back into the intake? If you do it will help with idle

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

If its running rich then that probably why it idleing like that

did you cap off the BOV recirc on the turbo intake pipe?

Also are you running the Vavle cover "T" vent back into the intake? If you do it will help with idle

now that you bring It up.. Let me go check the BOV recirc on the intake pipe cause I didnt do that part It came like that and I never botherd to check It. It does look kinda janky like Its not sealing. Yea It's t'd back to the Intake. Ima go check that recirc right now!

I almost forgot! I can hear my Injectors Hissing really really loud! Wayy louder than any other I've ever heard! What could that be? Also the fuel rail doesn't sit right at all! The injectors are kinda popping out a lil bit. Ive changed fuel rails and still the same thing. that would be the rubber o rings right?

[slow40sx]

do u have a filter on ur maf? when i first did my swap i had no filter and i had the same idle problem u speak of. i put a filter on the maf and it idles perfect now, has been for 2 months

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

I clean the Iavc and checkd all gaskets they are all fine.. I can get the car to idle a lil better still like crap but stays on longer only If the Iacv screw Is almost all the way closed If not all the way closed. Think Its bad?

[steve shadows]

Are you using aftermarket ECU?

What are you injector settings?

T

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

Right now I'm running stock ecu,stock injectors and stock t25.. This Is delaying the tuning process! I haven't thrown any parts on cause damn thing wont run right! All the stock parts came off a running sr so they are In working conditon

[steve shadows]

Right now I'm running stock ecu,stock injectors and stock t25.. This Is delaying the tuning process! I haven't thrown any parts on cause damn thing wont run right! All the stock parts came off a running sr so they are In working conditon


You are probably missing your ECCS RELAY wire and its probably not wired in on your Harness /Swap Wiring job. Its a RED WIRE (thin) with Black Stripe.

I needs to be continuous from the Chassis harness into your new SR harness.

This may be the issue.

If you watch the ECU light (little red led light on the ecu board) it should stay on while the car dies...and they key is in on.

If it doesnst then you know you arent getting all power to all power circuits for the ecu

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

We've checked the wiring In and out and everything Is wired correctly.. I just changed the Iacv and put the walbro fuel pump and same thing! If I keep It revving up the engine sounds strong and revs smooth I'm talking 3k and above though! I've unplugged tps and when unplugged the car REALLY runs like shit so It's not that. The ecu Isn't throwing any codes at all..

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

I've came down to It being.. possibly a bent valve or maybe the head wasn't properly tourqed and came loose cause I've done everything. Replaced everything and same crap..

[sidedrifts13]

take it to a shop either sr20 store or boso or machine tune dont go to rnd

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

take it to a shop either sr20 store or boso or machine tune dont go to rnd

Shops charge too much! I can do the valve job and check everything my self I just want to know peoples Input before I start ripping the head apart :2f2f:

[nothix]

Did the motor come out of a running car?
I'd say tearing the head will more then likely get you no where.
how are your grounds?

[army240]

What about leaky injector or fuel rail?!

[spiderlone]

so we've checked everything on the motor besides internals.. It will either start and die or start idle like shit for like half a sex maybe and then die.. If I keep the throttle fully open it will stay on and rev only but as soon as you let that throttle go below 30% It dies or if you hold It wide open it will pop alot and put out alot of blue flames and then eventually rev back up..

What could this be? Grounds are how It comes from the factory. Has a new 2 gauge ground going to the intake manifold. And three other ground I made going from head to chassis and 2 more from manifold to chassis.

Are these characteristics of a bent valves? Maybe bad power but when you start revving the motor It turns the alternator more and feeds more power so It can function?

The maf has been changed,harness,fuel rail and injectors,whole intake manifold,ecu. Running OPTIMA red top battery, The intercooler was changed. all couplers were inspected and tightned. Intake rubber tube was Inspected and Its good sealed off properly.

[proud2b3black]

did you ever check the actual throttle body?
i had the same problem on mine,and all i did was clean out the throttle body from all that gunk build up from the intake, and also tighten the cable. after i perform this maintenance my car has been idling perfectly fine.

and the fuel injectors:
they sound like there just running hella rich thats why your hearing that hissing sound.

[MachineTune]

Couple of questions:

1. How are you checking your timing if it does not hold a steady idle of 800 +/-50rpm?

2. When you replaced components such as the MAF, IACV, Harness, ECU, etc, did you perform comparative testing of the components which were replaced with that of the new ones(with a multimeter)?

3. When you mentioned that the ECU didn't throw any codes at all are you saying that there is no LED to display the self diagnostic mode, or that it is throwing a 55?

If it is throwing a 55 it is simply letting you know that the sensors monitored by the ecu are in working order, but will not inform you if the sensor/electronic valve is in the proper voltage range.

If your timing is dead on(rotate until you get all markers where they should be when #[email protected], including the cams in relation to the chains markers, also check CAS prior to re installation both visually and with a multimeter)then I would suggest a ecu pin in/out test of each component and its function with an accurate multimeter.

Hope this helps, and good luck.

Also if it does happen to hold an idle the best way to check for the possibility of a bent valve(in addition to many other mechanical issues)would be with a vacuum gauge tester, simple and effective. It would save you a lot of time compared to removing the head....I know a little obvious, just trying to help.

Good luck.