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View Full Version : Brand nde clutch slipping...


s14kozenki
08-28-2009, 01:56 AM
edit: the title should say "brand new" major typo thx.

Hey zilvia I just installed my sr20 swap a few days ago and got everything bolted down and such, but the clutch is slipping at anything past 1.5k.

I have adjusted the pedal and the free play via the bolt and rod behind the pedal so the engagement point is fine. I can definitely feel the clutch slipping easily and when i accelerate really slowly it seems to catch better.

I suspect there MIGHT be some grease on the clutch or something, i DID put some grease on the end of the transmission shaft when inserting it in the engine to get it to slide into the pilot bearing easier.. perhaps that was a no-no. Otherwise, the clutch is brand new oem spec, the pressure plate is as well, flywheel was resurfaced, throwout bearing is new, rear main seal is new as well....



I was also wondering if it would be possible to just run it very lightly to burn up the oil/grease (if there is any) and hopefully the clutch would be okay? Or is it possible to take both clutch/flywheel off, clean it, and reinstall? or do I need to buy a whole new clutch and get flywheel resurfaced again?

I also read that bleeding the system could help in clutch engagement/disengagement perhaps? Could that really help the clutch not slip at 2k?

btw this is an s13 sr20det in my 1995 s14.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
kevin

JEDIs13
08-28-2009, 02:27 AM
did you run the car hard before it started slipping?? most clutch kits require a 500 mile break in period. if you dont break it in properly it will begin to slip

$nicklefritz
08-28-2009, 07:58 AM
either he fell asleep or hes swapping the clutch out cuz be beat it to death:duh:

Touge180sx
08-28-2009, 08:54 AM
Torque the pressure plate bolts to spec?
Flywheel beyond service/resurface limit?

s14kozenki
08-28-2009, 12:32 PM
all bolts were torqued to spec, and I didn't beat on it because right away when I started test-driving it was already slipping... Do not know about the flywheel being beyond service limits, never heard of that before.
Kevin

BoostedCoupe
08-28-2009, 12:38 PM
is the pedeal releasing all the way? the clutch pedal could be not letting the clutch not get on the flywheel all the way

s14kozenki
08-28-2009, 12:43 PM
yea the pedal is coming all the way up. The engagement/disengagement point is about half way through the pedal travel so I think that part of the system is fine. plus I spent practically all day yesterday playing with different settings on the pushrod behind the clutch pedal and regardless of where the clutch engages/disengages it is still slipping the same :\
kevin

s13silvia123
08-28-2009, 12:49 PM
did you you clean the flywheel before you install the clutch. if you left any greasy deposit this could happen also bad rear main seal can cause oil to go in the flywheel and clutch as well.

if you attempt to fix the clutch again you might as well replace the rear main seal also

s14kozenki
08-28-2009, 01:37 PM
I replaced the rear main when I was installing the engine. Do I need to clean the flywheel after it has been machined? or is that only when buying a new one? Could even a little grease spot cause this much slippage?
thanks for all the input guys!
kevin

Bigsyke
08-28-2009, 01:46 PM
Yes, even a little bit of high temp grease will contaminate the clutch disc and glaze the clutch. It will never fix itself, the more it slips the worse it will become.

Thats why you need to have about 10 cans of brake/carb cleaner on hand.

s14kozenki
08-28-2009, 02:19 PM
thanks for the info.. will be replacing the clutch tomorrow night and see how it goes..