PDA

View Full Version : Got My RB25 Running, Sorta, PROBLEMS! Help Please :)


FinkenS14
08-22-2009, 02:21 AM
OK guys I got my RB25 S14 running today, and well I need some help working out the bugs.
Mods:

Stock S1 RB25
Freddy Intake
Stock TB
Yamamoto Tuned ECU (came with the motor set)
Walbro 255
3" Turbo Elbow
CX Racing Front Mount

Thats basically it that is aftermarket

On the first start up everything seemed great. Idled great, and everything was going good. Took it for a drive across the street to fill up with fuel, and drove it back to the house. Went out again just for a drive, and noticed that the car doesnt like boost (WTF).

On the first drive, I was able to get around but the car would start to studder and jolt right when it got into boost, and it'd get past the studdering, and pull like normal, but felt very sluggish. The car also hesitates if you give the throttle a quick jab, almost tripping on itself. THe problem got worse the more I drove it.

Came back, fixed a coolant leak, did some other tweaks, and went out for another drive. Right away, even a little bit of gas, and it will studder. And even just 1-2 PSI makes the car studder real bad. Headed back home, and going around a corner, about 10mph, the car started to studder, and just died. After that it would just crank, but smell of fuel really bad. Checked for leaks, none. Just cranks.

So my question is, with the atmospheric blow off (HKS SSQV), on a stock MAF, with a Yamamoto tuned ECU, and a Walbro, is the car just drowning itself in fuel, and just finally fouled out the plugs? I havent taken them out yet, its too late at night now, Ill check tomorrow.

My friends are telling me with the tuned ECU and Walbro its just running way to rich.

Also another thing, without the Walbro, the car wud rev fine, no problems, but never got around to driving it on a stock S14 pump.

Also car is on stock boost.

Any body got any advice? Pretty sure at this point its not a boost leak, otherwise it'd still start, and not stink of fuel.

Killa_D
08-22-2009, 02:40 AM
With that fuel pump your going to need a fpr because that fuel pump just flows to much.
Also your bov could be causing a problem.

GSXRJJordan
08-22-2009, 02:52 AM
With that fuel pump your going to need a fpr because that fuel pump just flows to much.
Also your bov could be causing a problem.

The stock Skyline fuel pump flowed a bunch too ~ most likely the stock FPR is not the problem.

Is that ECU tuned for stock MAF/injectors/turbo?

Sounds like either your CAS is loose and your timing is horrid, or you have a boost leak that gets worse as you drive it. Check timing, check couplers/clamps, then get back to us.

I LUV MY S13
08-22-2009, 02:53 AM
if theres a gang of black smoke then ur definitely running rich...but my friend had a similiar issue and it turned out to be the tps

FinkenS14
08-22-2009, 11:33 AM
The ECU came with the motorset. THe motor set has a stock turbo, injectors, and everything else that come stock on this motor.

The CAS isnt loose, you cant turn iit...

Im running an open turbo elbow right now, so I cant see out the back of the car if its running rich. THe one time I did rev it ad idle tho it blew quite a bit of black smoke.

How will I be able to tell if its the TPS?

Zacho
08-22-2009, 11:45 AM
What plugs are you using?

check coils for cracks? RB's are the worst for this

FinkenS14
08-22-2009, 03:57 PM
Problm figured out. When I fixed my thermostat the other day I unplugged the CAS and a few other things to make room. Looked at it this morning, and the CAS wasnt even fully clicked in. Car runs strong now on just wastegate pressure. Still studders every now and then though. Any thoughts?

rc1honda
08-22-2009, 05:46 PM
Problm figured out. When I fixed my thermostat the other day I unplugged the CAS and a few other things to make room. Looked at it this morning, and the CAS wasnt even fully clicked in. Car runs strong now on just wastegate pressure. Still studders every now and then though. Any thoughts?

Not sure if running the car with CAS off would screw with the timing but i would check it anyway. You might be a few degrees off and in high rpm it's misfiring. Also a lot of swap motors from Japan have the timing way off for some reason. Also if you want to check your TPS hook a volt meter up and put the + on one of the TPS plug pins and ground the other. Then have either pull the throttle cable open or have a freind press the gas. The voltage should go up realtivley smooth. Im not sure about the RB but SR voltage is .35-.45 closed throttle and over 4.0 volts at WOT. Then to adjust it you just losen the screws on the TPS and move it up or down until it reads the correct voltage.

FinkenS14
08-22-2009, 05:58 PM
Alright thanks.

I should also be more detailed with my explanation of it studdering.

It only happens every now and then when im in boost, and punch it, it studders real quick, and pulls like crazy, no misses. Or From a dig if I try getting on it too soon it kinda studders.