PDA

View Full Version : Battery relocation help?


24DZ
08-10-2009, 07:43 PM
I want to relocate my battery to the back of my car. Any advice or helpful tips on what i would need and where to get it would be helpful.

roninwon
08-11-2009, 12:22 AM
items youll need
zero gauge wire (a shit load of it) you can get this a audio shops
2 gauge wire (again a shit load) again local audio shop
connectors and battery tie downs
first thing u do is cut the terminal from the positive cable and remove the negative completely
run the zero and the 2 gauge wire from your trunk all the way to the engine bay using a connector connect the zero gauge to the old positive then do the same with the 2 gauge just connect to the engine bay the just connect the 2 wires to your battery and your set but remember to strap it down somehow

gmember240
08-11-2009, 01:03 AM
summit racing sells a really nice kit if you have any shops near you.. you can also order it from their website. 80$ but it has absolutely everything you need

biggbadd240sx
08-11-2009, 11:17 PM
what you can do is buy a battery relocate kit on ebay or google should be somewhere around 50 to 150 depending on how much you want to spend brother later

S-Nation S13
08-11-2009, 11:31 PM
no need for relocate kit just buy a batter box from the good old autozone,2 guage wire from lowes , and your good its pretty simple remember to wrap the hell out of the hot wire if its going near to rubbing on the body

aziankingz
08-12-2009, 07:15 AM
items youll need
zero gauge wire (a shit load of it) you can get this a audio shops
2 gauge wire (again a shit load) again local audio shop
connectors and battery tie downs
first thing u do is cut the terminal from the positive cable and remove the negative completely
run the zero and the 2 gauge wire from your trunk all the way to the engine bay using a connector connect the zero gauge to the old positive then do the same with the 2 gauge just connect to the engine bay the just connect the 2 wires to your battery and your set but remember to strap it down somehow

are you using the 2 gauge as your negative? if so, arent you supposed to keep your ground wire short?

projectRDM
08-12-2009, 07:24 AM
items youll need
zero gauge wire (a shit load of it) you can get this a audio shops
2 gauge wire (again a shit load) again local audio shop
connectors and battery tie downs
first thing u do is cut the terminal from the positive cable and remove the negative completely
run the zero and the 2 gauge wire from your trunk all the way to the engine bay using a connector connect the zero gauge to the old positive then do the same with the 2 gauge just connect to the engine bay the just connect the 2 wires to your battery and your set but remember to strap it down somehow

That is NOT the way to do it. For starters you don't use different gauges of wire for positive and negative leads, they should be the same. Consider the voltage like a water hose, the in and out need to be the same size.

Secondly, the ground should be bolted to the chassis by the battery. Running it back to the engine bay creates a shit load of extra resistance that's not required. The engine will be grounded to the chassis already and you're not going to see a ground loop as long as both grounds are good and clean.

p0onsta
08-12-2009, 07:40 AM
i suggest connecting the positive wire to the starter and making a hole through the main ECU harness grommet to feed the 0 gauge through. Get audio 0 gauge cable since it's more flexible. Run inside cabin and you should be able to get it through to the trunk behind the rear passenger side trim panel.

At the rear passenger side corner of the trunk are a few bolts that you can use to clamp down a battery tray. 1 of these bolts won't line up to the standard battery tray holes. sand the body down here and you can use that for the ground.

there: no holes drilled in metal and wire safe from dangers of bottoming out

just be cafeful when drilling the grommet to not hit any ecu harness wires.

projectRDM
08-12-2009, 09:54 AM
i suggest connecting the positive wire to the starter and making a hole through the main ECU harness grommet to feed the 0 gauge through. Get audio 0 gauge cable since it's more flexible. Run inside cabin and you should be able to get it through to the trunk behind the rear passenger side trim panel.

At the rear passenger side corner of the trunk are a few bolts that you can use to clamp down a battery tray. 1 of these bolts won't line up to the standard battery tray holes. sand the body down here and you can use that for the ground.

there: no holes drilled in metal and wire safe from dangers of bottoming out

just be cafeful when drilling the grommet to not hit any ecu harness wires.

Instead of cutting the engine harness grommet, use the existing grommet behind the fender liner in the wheel well. It's for the washer fluid hose for the rear wiper on S13s, or the hood release cable on RHD S14s. 99% of cars don't have anything there, just pop it out, trim it to fit, then snap it back in.

aziankingz
08-12-2009, 09:56 AM
can someone explain what steps are necessary to prevent the wires from rubbing/contacting body.. is it safe on its own under the carpet/trim?

projectRDM
08-12-2009, 12:56 PM
can someone explain what steps are necessary to prevent the wires from rubbing/contacting body.. is it safe on its own under the carpet/trim?

Sure. The OE harness lays there fine. With the carpet sitting over it it's not moving around at all, even if it did the amount of insulation plus the sound deadening on the floorpan are both thick enough it'd take forever to rub through and short out. You just want a grommet or a big glob of taillight sealant where it passes through the firewall.

aziankingz
08-12-2009, 01:06 PM
ok cool thanks for the info

Maiku240sxS14
08-13-2009, 11:54 AM
I suggest using a fuse on the power line, if it happens to short to ground...what you going to do, watch you car burn to the ground?

roninwon
08-14-2009, 02:00 PM
That is NOT the way to do it. For starters you don't use different gauges of wire for positive and negative leads, they should be the same. Consider the voltage like a water hose, the in and out need to be the same size.

Secondly, the ground should be bolted to the chassis by the battery. Running it back to the engine bay creates a shit load of extra resistance that's not required. The engine will be grounded to the chassis already and you're not going to see a ground loop as long as both grounds are good and clean.

well thats the way i did it and it works perfectly and i tried to make the ground wire short but the charge needs to go all the way to the engine so dont knock how I actually did it. your way might work for you but my way works for me

projectRDM
08-14-2009, 02:33 PM
but the charge needs to go all the way to the engine

Explain your point here.

The chassis is a solid unit. A ground to the chassis under the hood and one in the trunk will see very little if any voltage differential.

The engine is grounded to the chassis, then the battery. So if the engine is grounded to the chassis in one place and the battery another, you're doing the same thing. The extra length of wire you're using is just a huge amount of resistance.

Does it work? Sure. But is it correct, no. Could it be done better? Absolutely. Just because your way of halfassing shit works doesn't mean it's the right way to do it. I bet you're also the guy who uses crimp caps to connect wires instead of solder/heatshrink. Sure it makes a connection, but it looks like shit and causes a point where resistance and corrosion can occur. But hey, it's your car. You like rigging it, cool.

bigOdom1
08-14-2009, 02:48 PM
zero guage wire with a large fuse near the battery. ground the battery to the trunk. put it in a box or secure it really well. not that complicated.

xpertsnowcarver
08-14-2009, 02:49 PM
well thats the way i did it and it works perfectly and i tried to make the ground wire short but the charge needs to go all the way to the engine so dont knock how I actually did it. your way might work for you but my way works for me

The way you have it setup is the way RDM is talking about. You're misunderstanding him, and he's misunderstanding you because you didn't explain it correctly. The gauge of wire for both leads on your battery are the same, and you have it grounded immediately next to the battery. The power runs to your ECCS relay, Alt, Starter, Fuse blocks, etc like its supposed to.

/thread.

24DZ
08-20-2009, 09:06 PM
Thanks guys......This site is the shit. I wish i would have got on it sooner......COOL PEOPLE.

spoolandslide
08-21-2009, 09:25 PM
don't you also have to allow some way for the battery fumes to escape, could someone drop some knowledge?

i don't want my car burning down on the freeway like that little 510 i saw a while back (r.i.p)

aznpoopy
08-22-2009, 08:07 AM
yes. it's to prevent build up of hydrogen gas. the battery box should be airtight and a hose should be run from the box to the exterior of the car. very easy to do this. seal the lid with any appropriate lining and do the same for any holes running in and out of the box (cable holes, venting tube hole) with an appropriate grommet.

some people say you don't need venting if you run an optima because they never outgas. this is technically incorrect, but it's not as necessary as with a regular battery.

When used with a properly regulated constant voltage charging system (such as an alternator) the OPTIMA will usually not emit hydrogen gas. However, gassing can occur when charging at higher voltage levels or in extreme high temperature conditions. In automotive applications this typically will not happen if the alternator/regulator stay below 15 volts.

S-Nation S13
08-22-2009, 09:26 AM
as for venting the the hydro gas from the batteries i have no AC in my car and no i didnt take it off for hp gain!! it never came with it!! so with no ac i have to have the windows down all the time is that a sufficient way to vent the gas???

i see no point into sealing the box and making some piping to route gas out the car lol if i seal the box..how am i suppose to replace the battery??

projectRDM
08-22-2009, 11:53 AM
You can seal the box with weatherstripping. Nowhere does it say the seal must be permanent. Obviously that would be stupid, and assuming that is also stupid.

S-Nation S13
08-22-2009, 12:10 PM
lol that what i was just about to say lol after i thought about it but ya mine seems fine

spoolandslide
08-22-2009, 10:33 PM
i see no point into sealing the box and making some piping to route gas out the car lol if i seal the box..how am i suppose to replace the battery??



http://www.made-in-china.com/image/2f0j00jCTErMRIOiolM/Roller-Plastic-Box-SL-069102-.jpg

im thinkin something like this ;)


+ duct tape

cut some holes in the top and your good to go

Maiku240sxS14
08-26-2009, 12:34 PM
^ I guess some people have no pride for there cars....=/