SR issues after swap... bogging, high idle, rough idle low..HALP!!

[Blackzenki82]

so yeah, i called some friends, asked them, did some research on the intarwebz... and couldn't come up with a definite answer, so i'll run it by you guys...

everything before the swap ran AWESOME, high 12 sec car and all, smooth idle, no problemos....

now that that's out of the way, here's the symptoms... when i rev up and get into boost, around 4-5K RPM it bogs like a SOB, watching my wideband, i see it getting richer and richer as the boost rises, and than WHAMN!! it leans out, off the gauge... WTF....

i've tried 2 different ECUs, a stocker, a GRID tuned, and even my Nistune with the S13 SR20DET base map... i've turned the GReddy Profec B spec 2 off, and on, and it does it either way, at the stock 7lbs psi, and the daily setting on the EBC of 11.5... it's like as soon as it hits full boost, on either setting, it just leans out... like a fuel cut..

also, when the idle sits "low" it sits around 1200K, and then slowly as the engine warms up, creeps up to 200-2200K rpm and stays there... this i attributed to the bad coolant temp sensor i had so i went ahead and replaced it with a new OEM unit...

i've checked all couplers, and vac lines (low idle is @ -15/16Hg), and then rechecked them all.... i went over the couplers twice, three times, and tightened all the clamps... nothing seems to work...

my motor is set up EXACTLY the way it was when i had it in the gold car (my previous S14, got a new one to put my current motor in)...

my thoughts on possible problems-

Faulty MAF
possible (although unlikely), boost leak
IACV going bad

I'm lost, so if anyone can help, it'd be greatly appreciated

[slider2828]

DId the coolant temp sensor help the super high idle? Because i have the same problem.

Also is it an S14SR if so, can you tell me where the heck the coolant lines from the throttle body goes too? I really need help as well.

[jr_ss]

Marshall, you and Claw are having so many issue, must be a Gainsville thing.

Slider, as for the coolant lines on the T/B, one is in, one is out. If you are looking at the T/B from the front, the one that comes off the nipple on the #1 runner of the intake manifold goes to the left side of the T/B. The one from the coolant pipe underneath the manifold goes to the right side of the T/B...

[slider2828]

Great thanks!

I found out my high idle problem was something wrong with the fast idle cam. That stupid thermo-pusher thing to push the idler out so the throttle plate closes. The stupidest thing I have ever seen in my life....

[jr_ss]

Great thanks!

I found out my high idle problem was something wrong with the fast idle cam. That stupid thermo-pusher thing to push the idler out so the throttle plate closes. The stupidest thing I have ever seen in my life....

I just cut mine off... There's no reason to have that thing if you have an IACV... Retarded design by Nissan engineers, I'm also Haltech'd though so...

Marshall, have you tried swapping MAF's with a known good one? Usually when they start to go bad it starts bogging around 4k rpms... And it'll actually idle better unplugged... As for your high idle when warmed up, bypass the coolant lines on the T/B and see if that solves your high idle. You're Fast idle cam may be going bad.

[Blackzenki82]

i figured it out...

high idle was the cable not lining up on the pulley, and holding it at 2k rpm... i bent the bracket and viola! fixed...

as for the bogging, it was the alternator going bad and not giving enough juice... i guess a SR doesn't like boosting with 11V and dropping... got a new used alternator in there, and no more probs... now just to get my VLSD in cause with this power, and rapid spool on my custom turbo, the driver side tire breaks loose @ 4k and spins with a fury never before seen by man...

[0wn3r]

in case anyone else sees this thread, if you find it's only a bogging/backfiring issue around 4-5K, also try cleaning your MAF (with MAF cleaner) it may sound simple, but take it from me....

[Blackzenki82]

yeah bro, MAF for sure... i took mine completely apart a month ago, and detailed it lol....

no worries tho as i'll have my Z MAF on there soon enough

[migit]

Blackzenki did it bog if you stomped the gas? My sr20's acting a fool right now bogging horribly for 1-3seconds if I give it to much gas, then recovers and rpms jump up. My batteries died a couple times recently and while idling (battery is pretty new it should be fine) so I'm wondering if my alternators causing the problem not giving my car enough power to perform since I can't find anything else wrong with it at the moment.

[slider2828]

Just get the alt tested

[ford_o]

make sure your fuel is cleaned out it could be clogging up the fuel pump sock! i just dropped my fuel tank and found a shit load of crap now my car runs good

[migit]

Update for me... My alt works, doesn't charge while cars idling (not sure if thats normal or not). Battery tested bad, mixture of the two was making the car bog real bad couldn't get the engine enough juice and battery would drain wicked fast. Got a new battery in there and its fine now. Just gotta get the rpms up once and smooth sailing from there. Pretty much fixed all the issues I was having.

[0wn3r]

Update for me... My alt works, doesn't charge while cars idling (not sure if thats normal or not). Battery tested bad, mixture of the two was making the car bog real bad couldn't get the engine enough juice and battery would drain wicked fast. Got a new battery in there and its fine now. Just gotta get the rpms up once and smooth sailing from there. Pretty much fixed all the issues I was having.

you got a new battery and it was bad? that sucks, what kind was it

[TTrx7Pete]

Oddly enough I had gotten 2 bad Optima red top batteries within 1 year. I'm on my third as of today. No issues, great battery this time haha.