wtf?! My timing chain doesnt have different color links! (pics inside)

[redsx13]

So my SR idles like crap and i suspect my aftermarket cams (came in the motor) of causing the problem. so i pulled the valve cover to check that the timing marks on the cam gears line up with the lighter/darker color links on the timing chain and this is what i found....

(im almost 100% sure that those white marks on the chain aren't factory)
also, check out the bottom pic (exhaust cam) notice the inner set of holes that go around the gear, thats not stock is it?
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk141/redsx13/DSCN0061.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk141/redsx13/DSCN0063.jpg do i have an aftermarket chain?

[redsx13]

So my Redtop SR idles like crap and i suspect my aftermarket cams (came in the motor) of causing the problem. so i pulled the valve cover to check that the timing marks on the cam gears line up with the lighter color links on the timing chain and this is what i found....


(im almost 100% sure that those white marks on the chain aren't factory)
also, check out the bottom pic (exhaust cam) notice the inner set of holes that go around the gear, thats not stock is it?



http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk141/redsx13/DSCN0061.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk141/redsx13/DSCN0063.jpg do i have an aftermarket chain?

[godsmack]

can't see the pics since i'm at work but are u sure that you're at tdc? you could be 180 off and not see the chain links. just a suggestion.

[DJ_Sunrise]

its entirely possible that the OEM marks were simply painted over... considering the cams were replaced.

What do you mean by "crappy" idle? There are a ton of other things that will cause a bad idle. If the timing chain was off by a single link, your motor would be much worse than just idling bad....

-Bart

-Bart

[redsx13]

its entirely possible that the OEM marks were simply painted over... considering the cams were replaced.

What do you mean by "crappy" idle? There are a ton of other things that will cause a bad idle. If the timing chain was off by a single link, your motor would be much worse than just idling bad....

-Bart

-Bart

painted over? the entire link is supposed to be a different color metal.

i know there a are a ton of other things that can cause bad idle, this is what i have done thus far....

-cleaned the IACV
-replaced the CAS
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-Checked codes (only 55 [all good])
-checked for vacuum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vacuum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checked fuel pressure regulator (40 psi @ idle)
-checked timing chainhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/mag-glass_10x10.gif (http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/233670-missing-stalling-idle-ive-spent-2-000-trying-fix-its-cursed-help-2.html#) (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are firing (yes)
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel (http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/233670-missing-stalling-idle-ive-spent-2-000-trying-fix-its-cursed-help-2.html#) (yes)
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

Here is what I haven't done-

-Replace wiring harness (i pulled the thing apart and checked it)
-Replace the o2
-Replace the IACV
-Replace cams to stock

[redsx13]

bump.......

[Ceepo]

hmm... my old chain came out kinda like that, the color was faded to were i could bairly tell what they were, i would get a new timing chain set, i have my old chain you you wanna buy it 30 bucks shipped its yours...

[fromxtor]

I wound up using an aftermarket timing kit, and only the crank link was a different color. I got everything to where it was supposed to be and marked the chain links with a paint marker, worked fine. As long as the crank one is straight everything else will be cool.

[redsx13]

I wound up using an aftermarket timing kit, and only the crank link was a different color. I got everything to where it was supposed to be and marked the chain links with a paint marker, worked fine. As long as the crank one is straight everything else will be cool.

i know, but the problem is i cant see the crank gear mark! if i end up pulling my oil pump to check that mark do i have to drain oil??

[fromxtor]

^^ Yes and no, it would be easier if you did. You will have to lower the upper oil pan to get the front cover off. Also to remove the front cover or oil pump you will have to somehow loosen your upper front cover/head bolts(they are the ones towerd the very front and are 10mm). This will also mean you will have to loosen the exhaust cam caps and lift up the exhaust cam to get that bolt out.

[teamsprock]

You don't need the shiny links at all. There is no reason to ever use them and they will only line back up after a bunch of rotations, they do not come back to the same spot each time due to the odd number of links in the chain. Follow this procedure from RS-Enthalpy.com

SR20DET Camshaft Installation Procedure

1. Set crank to top dead center (TDC)…2nd mark from the left on the pulley. With the #1 cam lobes facing away from each other.
2. Remove tensioner.
3. Look at the front of the exhaust cam. You will see that there is a pin that locks the cam to the gear. You will also see a dot stamped into the cam gear at approximately 1 O’clock. This dot is used to mark tooth #1.
4. Starting from exhaust cam tooth #1 count (clockwise) the number of teeth until the top surface of the head. The head should be between 8 and 9 teeth.
5. Adjust cam position as necessary.
6. Find the DOT on intake cam. Once again this is tooth #1. Count COUNTER-clockwise to the top of the head. You should find that the top of the head should be between 4½ and 5½ teeth. Adjust as necessary.
7. Count the number of chain pins between the 2 dots across the top. You should count 20 pins.
8. Install tensioner. Rotate engine 2 full turns and slowly bring it back to TDC ( #1 lobes out)
9. Re-inspect cam position as listed above. Repeat if necessary.
10. Install CAS according to FSM procedure.