View Full Version : HELP!, SR is undriveable My A/F ratio is all over the place!!*****Got VIDEOS!***
redsx13
01-28-2009, 03:57 PM
Like the post says, SR runs horribly, This issue renders my car undriveable and I have been dealing with this issue for over a year, I have spent thousands and thousands of dollars trying to fix it with no luck at all. I am just about ready to push this thing off of a cliff.
The videos i have are at 2000 and 3000 rpms, but car will act like this at all rpms, there is just no need to take that many videos. (note: i am holding the rpms very very steady, the tach is fixed at 2 and 3 thousand, motor is not revving)
2000 rpms (exactly)
http://s279.photobucket.com/al...4.flv (http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk141/redsx13/?action=view¤t=pismo004.flv)
3000 rpms (exactly)
http://s279.photobucket.com/al...5.flv (http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk141/redsx13/?action=view¤t=pismo005.flv)
Idle (if you notice, it takes a longggg time for the car to make it back to 14)
http://s279.photobucket.com/al...7.flv (http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk141/redsx13/?action=view¤t=pismo007.flv)
slider2828
01-28-2009, 04:18 PM
Do I get thousands and thousands of dollars to fix it?
slider2828
01-28-2009, 04:20 PM
you have vacuum leak and check for that....
you have a shitty mass airflow sensor....
you have an intake leak....
Check for those things in that order...
redsx13
01-28-2009, 05:32 PM
you have vacuum leak and check for that....
you have a shitty mass airflow sensor....
you have an intake leak....
Check for those things in that order...
- Just did a boost leak test (how do i check for a vacuum leak?)
- Not my maf or maf wires
- no intake leak
slider2828
01-28-2009, 05:35 PM
Not that many vacuum hoses... Pull and check each one....
Did you swap mafs? to find out?
redsx13
01-29-2009, 12:21 AM
Not that many vacuum hoses... Pull and check each one....
Did you swap mafs? to find out?
all the vacuum hoses are brand new.but i double checked anyway. all good
yes i swapped mafs (works for sure), and ran new wires.
Slideways^Jordan
01-29-2009, 12:26 AM
you need a new tune! if you have a tune and check the gap on your spark plugs!
redsx13
01-29-2009, 12:45 AM
you need a new tune! if you have a tune and check the gap on your spark plugs!
Sparkplugs and gaps are good, coil packs and coil pack harness is also good
I brought it to a tuning shop for a tune but they couldn't fix the problem. They had it for over a week and still couldn't get it to run properly. They checked almost every major component; they also threw a power fc on it to tune it with, but no luck at all. (1. this was before I got the A/F gauge so they could not see exactly what was going on mixture wise. 2. For the tune, they just messed with it at idle, they never dyno'd it.)
You would think that if it just needed a tune, it would either be rich or lean, not fluctuate like that. Do you really think it sounds like a tune issue? Personal experience?
Erjay1
01-29-2009, 07:29 AM
So what shld your a/f be at idle???
Sileighty_85
01-29-2009, 08:56 AM
Maybe have a Vac leak After the MAF
The turbo's Stock Rubber intake pipe has a hole in it for the Crank case/Valve cover breather line.
Make sure it pluged
on a side note sounds like your timing chain is loose or you lifters need to be blead bad
redsx13
01-29-2009, 12:43 PM
So what shld your a/f be at idle???
like 14. something 10 is really really rich.
Maybe have a Vac leak After the MAF
The turbo's Stock Rubber intake pipe has a hole in it for the Crank case/Valve cover breather line.
Make sure it pluged
on a side note sounds like your timing chain is loose or you lifters need to be blead bad
No boost leaks at all
My timing chain does seem a little loose, but the sound you hear is the dash, steering column, and gauges rattling. The car runs really rough. solid motormounts dont help either.
Sileighty_85
01-29-2009, 01:07 PM
like 14. something 10 is really really rich.
No boost leaks at all
My timing chain does seem a little loose, but the sound you hear is the dash, steering column, and gauges rattling. The car runs really rough. solid motormounts dont help either.
If your chain is loose you might have jumped a tooth on the gears
Check mechaincal timing
slider2828
01-29-2009, 03:00 PM
Hmmm I dunno about timing, but its worth while to check... But if timing was off it would sound a lot worse then that, but easy enough and worth the check.
What does your spark plugs look like when you pull it out? Stick dark? White? Oily?
simplistek
01-29-2009, 03:30 PM
usually if the car is cruising the car goes into a closed loop cycle between 14 and 15 AFR. this allows the engine to save gas and keep the engine from blowing. it looks like your car is doing the same thing but while under no load. when you say it runs horribly, can you not pass a certain RPM? or the car doesnt have power at all?
redsx13
01-29-2009, 07:33 PM
If your chain is loose you might have jumped a tooth on the gears
Check mechaincal timing
i checked it on the cam gears, whit marks on chain line up with dots on gears. couldn't see the one on the drive gear though.
redsx13
01-29-2009, 07:42 PM
usually if the car is cruising the car goes into a closed loop cycle between 14 and 15 AFR. this allows the engine to save gas and keep the engine from blowing. it looks like your car is doing the same thing but while under no load. when you say it runs horribly, can you not pass a certain RPM? or the car doesnt have power at all?
no, it will rev all the way up, it seems to lack power and only boost about 4-5 psi. Very rough, The idle also searches up and down (at most 100 rpms)
do i need to take another video of the car driving at 300 rpms?
sdrmiami
01-31-2009, 06:53 PM
what ecu are you running? what afm you running? what pump? whats your Vacume @ on idel? email me your reply.
[email protected] i would not be driving the car like that..
Sileighty_85
01-31-2009, 07:27 PM
i checked it on the cam gears, whit marks on chain line up with dots on gears. couldn't see the one on the drive gear though.
Set Crank at TDC
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/180SX/VFSH2099.jpg
you should have silver links that line up on the dots
(you will have to rotate the crank abit to get them to line up properly)
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/180SX/PIC-0398.jpg
If not pay attention to the #1 Cylinder Cam lobes they will face outward
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/180SX/IMG_0818.jpg
then check the CAS Line up marks should be on the left dot
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/180SX/PIC-0400.jpg
You wont be able to check the Cranks line up dots unless you pull the oil pump off
UNISA JECS
01-31-2009, 08:12 PM
You dont mention yoru setup at all, but my guess is you got a stock ECU perhaps and probably running a WALBRO 255? Tell us your setup?
redsx13
02-01-2009, 11:27 PM
You dont mention yoru setup at all, but my guess is you got a stock ECU perhaps and probably running a WALBRO 255? Tell us your setup?
I didn't want to mention my setup because i was afraid it would skew the responces would get, i didn't want people to think it was the aftermarket parts causing the problem.
-The car origanally had 440cc injectors, z32 maf, and ecu tune. thats how i got it from japan in a clip. (It ran the same as it does now.)
-Downgraded to stock everything, (Runs the same as it does now, didn't fix the problem )
-shop told me they could fix the problem If i buy a PFC and tune the car, here is the setup now...
-Power FC D-Jetro
-No MAF
-Back to 440cc injectors
-walbro fuel pump
(P.S., shop was wrong, they tuned the car and i didn't fix anything!)
ANVIL
02-02-2009, 10:38 AM
i wonder if they adjusted the PFC for the upgraded injectors. check that maybe
redsx13
02-04-2009, 03:59 PM
i wonder if they adjusted the PFC for the upgraded injectors. check that maybe
no, like i said in the post, it had the same problem all stock.
d-magic
02-14-2009, 08:43 PM
it sounds like you have a vacuum leak. try hook up at the manifold.
JeremyR
02-25-2009, 06:58 PM
did you check your fuel lines for a leak?
did you check your fuel pressure?
bad 02 sensor maybe? i dont think this is it either though.
doesnt seem to be a vacuum leak to me.
you say it ran the same on a map setup as it did on a maf setup. so that rules out alot. problem is most likely fuel related/mechanical related. you say the timing is set on everything so that should rule out mechanical shit. i would re-check the fuel system, this includes the ignition (spark) system as well. personally, i think that maybe your fuel pressure is too high, causing a rich condition, or your injectors are bad, causing a rich condition. send in your injectors to be cleaned, and tested. buy a new fpr. check all fuel lines. double check that your walbro is in good shape as well. maybe change the plugs again for shits and giggles. you say the plugs are fine, but really if your a/f ratios are this fucked than you would see some signs on the plugs...
redsx13
02-25-2009, 11:28 PM
1. no leak in the fuel lines
2.checked fuel pressure+replaced regulator(
[email protected] idle, 43.5 w/vac disconnect)
3.never checked the 02(when i unplug it the car runs richer but better[doesnt misfire as much]) wtf?
4.replaced injectors
5. plugs look a little white-ish but all consistent and not that bad.
the car idles strange too, it searches up and down from 800 to 900. and misfires at idle. the miss is inconsistent though, sometimes it misses every 2-3 seconds, sometimes it just keeps missing (around 1 second apart)
godsmack
02-26-2009, 09:25 AM
How many wires does your 02 sensor have? With most A/F guages they won't read right unless you upgrade to the 5 wire sensor. Did you check the fuel filter? You are running lean and should def. not drive the car much. I'm not 100% with fuel pressures but 40psi sounds alittle low. Most ppl i know run atleast 60psi.
Jus Skott
02-26-2009, 08:31 PM
OH shit son. your white! lol.
just wondering how long has that wide band been in car?
Sileighty_85
02-26-2009, 09:30 PM
How many wires does your 02 sensor have? With most A/F guages they won't read right unless you upgrade to the 5 wire sensor. Did you check the fuel filter? You are running lean and should def. not drive the car much. I'm not 100% with fuel pressures but 40psi sounds alittle low. Most ppl i know run atleast 60psi.
Stock F/P is 43 psi
blackej7
03-01-2009, 11:10 AM
Maybe theres something mechanically wrong.
have you done a compression/leakdown test?
Cant you monitor data with the power fc? check all your values, make sure everything is normal.
redsx13
03-01-2009, 09:49 PM
How many wires does your 02 sensor have? With most A/F guages they won't read right unless you upgrade to the 5 wire sensor. Did you check the fuel filter? You are running lean and should def. not drive the car much. I'm not 100% with fuel pressures but 40psi sounds alittle low. Most ppl i know run atleast 60psi.
i have a wideband
OH shit son. your white! lol.
???
redsx13
03-01-2009, 09:58 PM
have you done a compression/leakdown test?
compresion is 150-150-150-149, no leakdown test, but i did do a boost leak test.
Cant you monitor data with the power fc? check all your values, make sure everything is normal.
i can if i knew what normal was.
910noskillz
03-02-2009, 06:58 AM
sounds like a timing issue to me.....it doesnt sound the same as a boost leak, it would be pegged rich if it was after the maf......
i would check into the timing more
mbmbmb23
03-02-2009, 09:32 AM
FPR taking a dump?
910noskillz
03-02-2009, 11:54 AM
could also be a fuel related issue!
redsx13
03-02-2009, 02:23 PM
sounds like a timing issue to me.....it doesnt sound the same as a boost leak, it would be pegged rich if it was after the maf......
i would check into the timing more
i will check into it..
btw, i have a new nismo fpr and my fuel pressure at idle is around 40psi (normal).
godsmack
03-02-2009, 02:41 PM
take valve cover off put motor at tdc check make sure the cams r timed right. like someone else said you might of jumped a tooth w/ the chain being loose and all. the cams gears have a dot and the chain has silver links that they line up with.
redsx13
03-02-2009, 03:27 PM
that's actually what i did, but i found something really strange.
http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/243284-wtf-my-timing-chain-doesnt-have-different-color-links-pics-inside.html
p.s. i noticed you already commented on it, when you get home check those pics out and tell me what you think.
blackej7
03-02-2009, 05:16 PM
sounds like a timing issue to me.....it doesnt sound the same as a boost leak, it would be pegged rich if it was after the maf......
i would check into the timing more
If there was a vacuum leak after the MAF, o2 sensor would read lean. but hes map based, so a vacuum leak will simulate a load/raise idle.
Why dont you post up all the parameters you can monitor with the power-fc? and well go over em?
edit:
whoa, you have aftermarket cams too?
COMPLETE mod list please... lol...
redsx13
03-03-2009, 02:10 AM
If there was a vacuum leak after the MAF, o2 sensor would read lean. but hes map based, so a vacuum leak will simulate a load/raise idle.
Why dont you post up all the parameters you can monitor with the power-fc? and well go over em?
edit:
whoa, you have aftermarket cams too?
COMPLETE mod list please... lol...
ya...... i gotta swap those thing out, gonna throw some stock ones in, i will post up the parameters soon.
the ideal would be to have the car completely stock and then go off of that. I'm thinking i can leave the pfc though because it has a base tune that is the same as stock.
godsmack
03-03-2009, 08:40 AM
that's actually what i did, but i found something really strange.
http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/243284-wtf-my-timing-chain-doesnt-have-different-color-links-pics-inside.html
p.s. i noticed you already commented on it, when you get home check those pics out and tell me what you think.
did you try to keep spinning the motor to see if the links or way off? if that's the case then you may have to pull a bunch of shit off to either get them right or hope that they're right and try to find something else but i think that this is the problem now. other thing you can do is degree the cams once it's at tdc and say fuck the links.
redsx13
03-03-2009, 12:35 PM
did you try to keep spinning the motor to see if the links or way off? if that's the case then you may have to pull a bunch of shit off to either get them right or hope that they're right and try to find something else but i think that this is the problem now. other thing you can do is degree the cams once it's at tdc and say fuck the links.
i haven't checked, but as soon as i pull the valve cover again i will.
ooooo, how do i degree the cams at tdc???
check for that vacuum leak, spray a can of brake cleaner all over the engine and if the idle raises you have a vacuum leak.
i know a vac leak was suggested but nobody ever told you how to do it properly
Sileighty_85
03-11-2009, 04:11 PM
Dude it seems like when some pulled off the cams they fucked up the mechaincal timing
Those white dots were for the person to line the sprockets marks back up, but they probably dropped the chain.
You have basically replaced all the electronic shit on that damn engine.
Pull the engine and redo the Mechanical timing with OEM SR cams Per FSM
blackej7
03-12-2009, 03:36 PM
check for that vacuum leak, spray a can of brake cleaner all over the engine and if the idle raises you have a vacuum leak.
i know a vac leak was suggested but nobody ever told you how to do it properly
........ or he can just look at his boost gauge and make sure it idles at the right vacuum, since he has a MAP sensor.
Ca_Silvia
03-13-2009, 03:44 PM
Few things, its already been established that your fuel pressure is 3psi low. (40 vrs 43)
Secondly, when you put in your "stock" injectors did you clean/flow test them? IMO it sounds like you have dirty ass injectors throughing an odd spray pattern in to the chamber.
Lastly, i had similar symptoms then i changed out my o2 and it was all good after. Especially if you are holding your rpms steady, thats when the o2 tries to adjust everything leaner as opposed to WOT.
redsx13
03-16-2009, 11:44 PM
Dude it seems like when some pulled off the cams they fucked up the mechaincal timing
Those white dots were for the person to line the sprockets marks back up, but they probably dropped the chain.
You have basically replaced all the electronic shit on that damn engine.
Pull the engine and redo the Mechanical timing with OEM SR cams Per FSM
ya that's my next step, but i really don't want to pull the oil pump :-/
It actually runs decent in the higher rpms though, if it was a tooth off wouldn't it run really really bad?
redsx13
03-16-2009, 11:52 PM
Few things, its already been established that your fuel pressure is 3psi low. (40 vrs 43)
Secondly, when you put in your "stock" injectors did you clean/flow test them? IMO it sounds like you have dirty ass injectors throughing an odd spray pattern in to the chamber.
Lastly, i had similar symptoms then i changed out my o2 and it was all good after. Especially if you are holding your rpms steady, thats when the o2 tries to adjust everything leaner as opposed to WOT.
ya, i was thinking o2, but the car searches up and down whether it is plugged in or not. when its plugged in the car misses, but when i unplug it the missing stops.wtf
vortxxe
03-17-2009, 10:41 AM
you can't "drop the chain" on an sr. There are little knobs that stick out of the front cover that prevent the timing chain from coming far enough off the crank sprocket to actually skip a tooth. Pretty smart move by nissan.
Anyhow, it quite likely sounds like either your ignition timing, or mechanical timing is out of whack. Have you verified the CAS is calibrated correctly/installed correctly?
redsx13
03-17-2009, 11:29 PM
you can't "drop the chain" on an sr. There are little knobs that stick out of the front cover that prevent the timing chain from coming far enough off the crank sprocket to actually skip a tooth. Pretty smart move by nissan.
no way! that is the best news i have heard all day!
as far as the CAS, 2 CAS's (both the one that came on the car and one i bought from zilvia) do the same thing. ign timing is 15* btdc and my apexi power fc verifies these numbers as well.
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