Best oil to run

[silviachik420]

i have a Sr20det and i was wondering whats the best oil you guys came across??? do you guys use additives??? will they harm the turbo?? like thick lucas????

i tried search i tried looking threw 5 pages if this has been reviwed please link me please

[lilaznjeff]

use 75w90 for oil for your sr20det.

and 0w40 for transmission fluid.

you gain 23HP!

[silviachik420]

should i switch to synthetic blinker fluid to????

[LongGrain]

ENEOS!

0w50

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

summer 20-50.. winter 10-40 non synthetic.. castrol or mobile 1

[gunmetalr32]

************** ENEOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! gold bottle 0w50 have 3 cases at home...

[WISH ONE]

royal purple is my weapon of choice

[Mister.E]

i used to run Royal Purple 10w-30, but i switched to Mobil1 15w-50 and never looked back. Mobil1 is a great oil to run in your SR

[PhantomS14]

AMSOIL.. Good luck finding a reseller close by, or you can order it online.

[jarober]

I run mobil 1 in all of my cars and would not run anything else. Great oil and no problems ever

[slider2828]

Royal Purple > Mobile 1 for sure..... Pressure bearing test.... and more HP.

Eneos = Royal Purple

Amsoil > Eneos and Royal Purple....

Royal Purple FTW = available at any Kragen including 0-30 (Behind the counter).

Eneos and Amsoil good luck finding it.

I assume you guys wouldn't run a 20-50 because there is barely any startup protection on that because its way thick and you get no circulation in the morning. THere is a oil weight thread that I posted in tech section. 0-40 for track

[pwr-adr]

I use lucas, royal purple, amsoil, and eneos. All great oils no complaints.. What he said, I think 20winter is way to high even for summer.. 5-40 here in my motors.. Always use oem nissan filters plus they come in blue come on you all love blue..

[pwr-adr]

and additives I have seen personally save an engine from destruction, knocking that is. I used TX-7 in all my oils.. Great stuff and way over looked in the automotive community.

[WISH ONE]

I guess I am just a bit biased, the day that I switched over from royal purple to mobile one, I spun a bearing later the same night... theres a great Article floating around here somewhere, Royal purple clearly got some of the better results over MObil one.

[steve shadows]

i have a Sr20det and i was wondering whats the best oil you guys came across??? do you guys use additives??? will they harm the turbo?? like thick lucas????

i tried search i tried looking threw 5 pages if this has been reviwed please link me please

No thicker than 10w40 on stock bearing clearances

20w50 is a huge NO NO-

I would run 10w30 at all times in inclimate climate like california, and 10w40 summer, 5w-30 winter in other areas. Nissan / Nismo oem oil for the SR/KA is a full organic and you can buy it online and at the deals. I usually use a good synthetic blend with about half a cup of lucas stabilizer. I don't see any need to run over-priced racing specialty oils if you have the proper engine temperature or an oil cooler. I usually use durablend valvoline synthetic blend or castrol synthetic blend.

Mobil one is good, but again, I just take good old fashioned synth-blend. If your oil system is working properly, in OEM condition and your motor is operating at the right temps you will be better than fine.

This cocktail has kept my stock container bottom end performing great and consistent for the past 2 years at hp levels around 500 brake horespower.

I used to make the mistake of using weights closer to 50, but you don't want this because the engine was designed with oil passages / diameters etc in mind for a specific viscosity

[smelly240]

i run the german castrol 0w30. its not like our syntec. google it.

royal purple makes power at the expense of your equipment.

[codunc]

royal purple makes power at the expense of your equipment.

what is that based on? everything i've read about royal purple is positive in every aspect but the price. if there's research behind what you said i'd like to see it since everything im running this oil in is at risk

[VQMaxFan]

Castrol 10w40 works fine for my sr.

what is that based on? everything i've read about royal purple is positive in every aspect but the price. if there's research behind what you said i'd like to see it since everything im running this oil in is at risk

Its somewhere around here, it was in part 2 of the magazine someone put on here ill look for it i guess.

From what ive heard their viscosity's are off also.

[rb25_s13*CHUKI]

I run 20w-50 and It works just fine.. Even In the morning

[Soup Nazi]

i run the german castrol 0w30. its not like our syntec. google it.

royal purple makes power at the expense of your equipment.


I use the same oil. It's kind of hard to find sometimes though. But it's great for my climate. And the cold weight of 0 gives you geat startup protection.

Ive had always thought of Castrol being better than Mobil 1. IMO

[smelly240]

only the german castrol is this good... the american stuff is shit. I am just outside philadelphia - so im in ht esame climate ;)

I have 5 cases if u eve have trouble finding it. I can also get it through work.

It isnt like NEW news that RP effects reliability/wear negatively. keep watchin that crap on tv - superchip bolt on power! YEAH!

[slider2828]

That Castrol European blend is what smelly is talking about... Good stuff I heard, but I think Royal might edge it out a little. But Man amsoil is really good stuff, but at almost 2x the price of Royal, I'd rather just change it more often....

[smelly240]

EXCEPT - smelly happens to be an oil nerd on Bobistheoilguy.com - and Royal purple has less than stellar protection. Used Oil Analysis shows that MOBIL ONE 5w30 Protects MUCH better than ROYAL PURPLE 5w30.

The German made castrol is very close to AMSoil - better than mostly anything. The royal purple wont make any more power than mobil1. The Mobil1 and RP will however make 1-2 hp over the FAR BETTER PROTECTING GC 0w30 (which is borderline 40 weight btw)

the only strange thing about mobil1 is that it often comes up with a lot of lead and other metals in it.

Royal Purple is mediocre for protecting, Mobil1 is better, as is pennz platinum and GC.

[Geno750]

Amsoil is easy as hell to find, I don't know why you guys keep saying good luck getting it. That may be because my dad is an amsoil dealer, but I'm not so sure after seeing his paperwork from amsoil. It looks like almost anyone could become an amsoil dealer, and looks like an MLM. I believe that is what people mean when they say amsoil is the kirby vaccume cleaner of oils.

Since I drive early in the morning and late at night, even in northwest florida, it gets cold (was 1C this morning) so I run amsoil 10w-40, but in the summer I run 20w-50 amsoil. I wanted to try the RD50 they recently released but I couldn't find any real solid info on how well it would do in a DD since its their racing 15w-50 oil, and with amsoil prices, the extended oci's are somewhat nice.

Oh and my bearings are not facory clearenced, I stole the idea from Matt Back, and am running clearences as large as his are and I also have the mazworx main oiling mod.

[bbejj123]

heres something i posted from one of the many many other oil threads...
http://www.rpsportengineering.com/OilTests.pdf (http://www.rpsportengineering.com/OilTests.pdf)


edit: oh well the link is no longer working =/ try looking at the previous oil threads

[smelly240]

The thing about amsoil is that ur local shits wont carry it - ever. they forbid any chain from selling it.

So its not hard to get-just not worth it for really expensive oil.

great product, just harder to justify.

The german castrol however will be at most autozones. MAKE SURE U GET THE RED Square areound 0w30 - and it says made in germany on back (the USA made 0w30 went out of production in 02 so mostly u'll see german made anymore)

Pennz Plat and mobil1 is everywhere and Pennz u can get crazy deals on.

[smelly240]

heres something i posted from one of the many many other oil threads...
http://www.rpsportengineering.com/OilTests.pdf (http://www.rpsportengineering.com/OilTests.pdf)

sweet broken link LOL

[bbejj123]

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/186006-what-oil-do-you-use.html
heres a previous oil thread has some good info on here as well

[Geno750]

The thing about amsoil is that ur local shits wont carry it - ever. they forbid any chain from selling it.

So its not hard to get-just not worth it for really expensive oil.

great product, just harder to justify.

The german castrol however will be at most autozones. MAKE SURE U GET THE RED Square areound 0w30 - and it says made in germany on back (the USA made 0w30 went out of production in 02 so mostly u'll see german made anymore)

Pennz Plat and mobil1 is everywhere and Pennz u can get crazy deals on.

Really? There are a few stores here (car quest comes to mind) that have it stocked on their shelves. Maybe they are small enough to not get noticed. I've got to drop my oem pan today to switch to a different one, I might have to try the 0w-30 when I do.

[dirtdiggler666]

i just have to say this ROYAL PURPLE SUCKS its good for low hp engines hondas worked wonders in my friends but if your pushing it fuck that shit. and yes i can back up what im saying.

we used it in out 1000 hp camaro and lets just say after 2 runs it turns to water. and lets just say that engine did not last long at all. then after talking to a bunch of top guys they swore by this stuff called Penn Grade 1 Racing Oil (http://www.bradpennracing.com/default.asp) and its been great for about 2 years.

so i just put it in my ka-t and im gunna give it a shot anyone else use it?

[smelly240]

so everyone knows - racing oil is supposed to be changed per event. dont go putting racing oil in your engine to drive around.

[Soup Nazi]

The thing about amsoil is that ur local shits wont carry it - ever. they forbid any chain from selling it.

So its not hard to get-just not worth it for really expensive oil.

great product, just harder to justify.

The german castrol however will be at most autozones. MAKE SURE U GET THE RED Square areound 0w30 - and it says made in germany on back (the USA made 0w30 went out of production in 02 so mostly u'll see german made anymore)

Pennz Plat and mobil1 is everywhere and Pennz u can get crazy deals on.


That is correct, it should also say "European Formula" on the front as well.


Thanks if i ever need some I'll PM you. Sometimes my local AZ is out of it.

[MrChow]

Quaker State Q synthetic anyone?? I had a good exp with them. But I've been running castrol synthetic a lot. I ran everything else. But then again I'm on my stock KA.

I usually get whatever good deals are going on at autozone. ATM I believe it's 5 qt. of Pennziol Platinum or Quaker State Q synthetic and K&N oil filter, for 29.99. Great deal.

[Grimsta]

There are lots of good oils. Eneos, RP, Amsoil & the ultimate Redline are all good. Personally I use Eneos 0w50 in my Supra because it has given me better oil pressure and temps than anything else, but thats my case. I believe you need to experiment to see what works best in your particular situation with your particular engine and setup. If you decide to roll w/ Eneos or Royal Purple PM me as I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised at our oil prices :D

[smelly240]

how can you compare eneos with RP? one offers great protection the other offers less than good.

[upSLIDEdown]

I ran Mobil1 5w30 and 10w30 depending on season in my KA for 8 years. I bought the car with 156k on it, and when I pulled the KA, it sat at 248,800. Never an ounce of trouble with it. My cousin bought it to rebuild. He and my uncle tore it down and my uncle told me it was the cleanest engine he's ever torn apart, especially with a quarter of a million miles on it.

Mobil1 in the SR all day, erry day.

[JRas]

I like Mobile 1, it's easy to find and relatively cheap.

I use 10w-30 here in Arizona

[hOngsterr]

eneos is good im guess cuz its from japen T_T lol
i heard that if you stop using royal purple it starts messing up the engine! O.o?
but i'd use mobil 1

[DrIvEsldEwAyS]

i ran 10w-30 for ever

now with built bottom end i run 20w-50.

[Grimsta]

eneos is good im guess cuz its from japen T_T lol
i heard that if you stop using royal purple it starts messing up the engine! O.o?
but i'd use mobil 1

how can you compare eneos with RP? one offers great protection the other offers less than good.
First one is a myth, lots of myths in the oil world. And so is the second one. Here we go:
Royal Purple is a "boutique" oil in that it's a Group IV & Group V blend of PAO and ester base stocks. Their consumer line of motor oil is API certified to SL specifications, with the exception of the 20W-50 which is a SJ spec...their XPR racing line is not API/ILSAC certified. In addition, the 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 are rated API energy conserving. I do not recommend you use the XPR line in a street car...it lacks many of the additives you want in a daily driven machine. In this case, "racing" is not better

Royal Purple oils are more slanted toward the hi-performance/racing crowd in general and as a result, the additive pack contains less detergents and anti-oxidants than what you will see in German Castrol or Redline. Unless you do oil analysis, a 5000 mile change interval will keep the oil from degrading to the point where it's not doing it's job....IMO, a 8000 mile OCI would be safe for this oil if city driving is what you primarily do. The filter will need to be changed at the 4000 mile point for an 8K OCI.

Royal Purple's color comes from dye used in the formulation; German Castrol was green a couple of years ago (elves?) for the same reason. All oils (including syn oils) are refined clear...dye is added for marketing. Moly comes in two forms (maybe more)...inorganic MoS2 which must be in a carrier (suspension) to flow and an organic type which is soluble in oil. Royal Purple uses the organic moly as a friction modifier and actually contains less organic moly than Redline does. This type of moly will not clog up your filter.

I would like to point out something you will see on oil data sheets that's fairly common concerning viscosity:

Royal Purple 5W-30
40 deg C - 65.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 11.0 centistrokes

Royal Purple 10W-30
40 deg C - 70.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 10.7 centistrokes

The 5W oil is a bit thinner than the 10W at cold temps as expected, but the 5W is actually thicker than the 10W at operating temp. This is due to the friction modifiers used in the oil and illustrates another point: Oil never thickens up when hot, it always thins to the SAE viscosity spec shown in the 2nd number on the API stamp.

Auto and manual transmission oils live a much easier life than motor oil...they do not have to deal with combustion by-products. As a result, most will perform very well. Royal Purple's manual transmission oil is excellent...most syn oils of this type are. Redline is another excellent choice.

Auto tranny oil is actually hydraulic oil. The #1 killer is heat....all of them (DEXRON III spec) will perform well if you have a good cooler. Adding a transmission filter pre-cooler is also a very good idea, as is a temp gauge. Royal Purple, Redline, Castrol, and Valvoline are excellent choices.

Royal Purple 80W-90 and Redline 75W-90 LSD oils work very well in a LSD that's in good shape. Keep in mind, both contain the friction modifiers necessary for the LSD...Redline 75W-90 NS does not have the modifiers. However, if the LSD has a lot of wear, either of these syn LSD oils may cause excessive slip. In this case, the Ford 75W-90 may be a better choice...you will also need the Ford friction modifier.

Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#mo4)
Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/rpmoa.html)
Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/techrp/synerleca.html)
Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/mgeara.html)
Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/rpmoa.html)

Now saving the best for last. Personally I use Nippon Eneos 0w50 now in my race Surpa:
Quality grade RG/API SM
SAE viscosity grade 0W-50
Appearance Orange
Density (15°C), g/cm3 0.847
Flash point (COC), °C 232
Kinematic viscosity (40°C), mm2/s 104
(100°C), mm2/s 18.0
Viscosity index 192
Pour point, °C –45.0
TAN, mgKOH/g 2.3
TBN (HCl), mgKOH/g 6.4
Color (ASTM) L3.0

here is the MSDS, http://www.eneos.us/documents/MSDS_0W50.pdf
Unfortunately there is no data for some parameters i would like to know. I'll work on getting an oil sample of my used oil.
I was able to dig up a virgin oil analysis (VAO) done on the Eneos 0W-50:

Aluminum:1
Chromium:0
Iron:1
Copper:0
Lead:0
Tin:0
Molybdenum:42
Nickel:0
Manganese:0
Silver:0
Titanium:0
Potassium:2
Boron:59
Silicon:3
Sodium:7
Calcium:1811
Magnesium:20
Phosphorus:662
Zinc:790
Barium:0

SuS @210*F: 85.2
Flashpoint *F: 425
TBN: 8.5

It appears the 0W-50 is a PAO base stock with ester added as a seal conditioner. The add pack seems a bit light for a street driven car...though, the TBN was higher than the advertised 6.4. This oil is thinner than the other 50W multigrades on the market, meaning it will flow better, but not near as well as a 0W or 5W-30. Could be due to Eneos' focus on racing (like Royal Purple)...this oil does not look well suited to extended drain intervals, but should be fine for at least 5000 miles. Which is why I use it for racing. For a street driven car you would want to use Eneos' 5w40

In the track car, the engine temp however did run 10 degrees cooler overall taking the average temp from several events before the switch to Eneos and then after the switch. The Supra also maintained 5psi of oil press. higher when it was HOT!

So whether you need the 0w50 or 5w50 for racing, or 5w40 for your street car I have both available. The 50weights go for $9-$10 a quart where the 40weight is $7.

[usdm180sx]

I use Neo synthetic because Signal uses it and they only charge $45 for an oil change including oem filter. They also have Eneos for $65

[Mr.GT30]

i used Redline synthetic 15w-50, all year long no problem, i can get them really good deal through my work place. if u guy interesting let me know,, SoCAL peep you can come by and pick up

[smelly240]

First one is a myth, lots of myths in the oil world. And so is the second one. Here we go:
Royal Purple is a "boutique" oil in that it's a Group IV & Group V blend of PAO and ester base stocks. Their consumer line of motor oil is API certified to SL specifications, with the exception of the 20W-50 which is a SJ spec...their XPR racing line is not API/ILSAC certified. In addition, the 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 are rated API energy conserving. I do not recommend you use the XPR line in a street car...it lacks many of the additives you want in a daily driven machine. In this case, "racing" is not better

Royal Purple oils are more slanted toward the hi-performance/racing crowd in general and as a result, the additive pack contains less detergents and anti-oxidants than what you will see in German Castrol or Redline. Unless you do oil analysis, a 5000 mile change interval will keep the oil from degrading to the point where it's not doing it's job....IMO, a 8000 mile OCI would be safe for this oil if city driving is what you primarily do. The filter will need to be changed at the 4000 mile point for an 8K OCI.

Royal Purple's color comes from dye used in the formulation; German Castrol was green a couple of years ago (elves?) for the same reason. All oils (including syn oils) are refined clear...dye is added for marketing. Moly comes in two forms (maybe more)...inorganic MoS2 which must be in a carrier (suspension) to flow and an organic type which is soluble in oil. Royal Purple uses the organic moly as a friction modifier and actually contains less organic moly than Redline does. This type of moly will not clog up your filter.

I would like to point out something you will see on oil data sheets that's fairly common concerning viscosity:

Royal Purple 5W-30
40 deg C - 65.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 11.0 centistrokes

Royal Purple 10W-30
40 deg C - 70.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 10.7 centistrokes

The 5W oil is a bit thinner than the 10W at cold temps as expected, but the 5W is actually thicker than the 10W at operating temp. This is due to the friction modifiers used in the oil and illustrates another point: Oil never thickens up when hot, it always thins to the SAE viscosity spec shown in the 2nd number on the API stamp.

Auto and manual transmission oils live a much easier life than motor oil...they do not have to deal with combustion by-products. As a result, most will perform very well. Royal Purple's manual transmission oil is excellent...most syn oils of this type are. Redline is another excellent choice.

Auto tranny oil is actually hydraulic oil. The #1 killer is heat....all of them (DEXRON III spec) will perform well if you have a good cooler. Adding a transmission filter pre-cooler is also a very good idea, as is a temp gauge. Royal Purple, Redline, Castrol, and Valvoline are excellent choices.

Royal Purple 80W-90 and Redline 75W-90 LSD oils work very well in a LSD that's in good shape. Keep in mind, both contain the friction modifiers necessary for the LSD...Redline 75W-90 NS does not have the modifiers. However, if the LSD has a lot of wear, either of these syn LSD oils may cause excessive slip. In this case, the Ford 75W-90 may be a better choice...you will also need the Ford friction modifier.

Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#mo4)
Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/rpmoa.html)
Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/techrp/synerleca.html)
Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/mgeara.html)
Royal Purple Consumer Products (http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/rpmoa.html)

Now saving the best for last. Personally I use Nippon Eneos 0w50 now in my race Surpa:
Quality grade RG/API SM
SAE viscosity grade 0W-50
Appearance Orange
Density (15°C), g/cm3 0.847
Flash point (COC), °C 232
Kinematic viscosity (40°C), mm2/s 104
(100°C), mm2/s 18.0
Viscosity index 192
Pour point, °C –45.0
TAN, mgKOH/g 2.3
TBN (HCl), mgKOH/g 6.4
Color (ASTM) L3.0

here is the MSDS, http://www.eneos.us/documents/MSDS_0W50.pdf
Unfortunately there is no data for some parameters i would like to know. I'll work on getting an oil sample of my used oil.
I was able to dig up a virgin oil analysis (VAO) done on the Eneos 0W-50:

Aluminum:1
Chromium:0
Iron:1
Copper:0
Lead:0
Tin:0
Molybdenum:42
Nickel:0
Manganese:0
Silver:0
Titanium:0
Potassium:2
Boron:59
Silicon:3
Sodium:7
Calcium:1811
Magnesium:20
Phosphorus:662
Zinc:790
Barium:0

SuS @210*F: 85.2
Flashpoint *F: 425
TBN: 8.5

It appears the 0W-50 is a PAO base stock with ester added as a seal conditioner. The add pack seems a bit light for a street driven car...though, the TBN was higher than the advertised 6.4. This oil is thinner than the other 50W multigrades on the market, meaning it will flow better, but not near as well as a 0W or 5W-30. Could be due to Eneos' focus on racing (like Royal Purple)...this oil does not look well suited to extended drain intervals, but should be fine for at least 5000 miles. Which is why I use it for racing. For a street driven car you would want to use Eneos' 5w40

In the track car, the engine temp however did run 10 degrees cooler overall taking the average temp from several events before the switch to Eneos and then after the switch. The Supra also maintained 5psi of oil press. higher when it was HOT!

So whether you need the 0w50 or 5w50 for racing, or 5w40 for your street car I have both available. The 50weights go for $9-$10 a quart where the 40weight is $7.


have you done a UOA on Royal Purple yourself? Because test results of USED OIL DONT LIE.

UNused oil - means much less.

[RB240Mike]

I use valvoline 10w 30 haha. IMO synthetic sucks ass for SR's, I spun a rod bearing 5 minutes after putting synthentic in. Mobil 1 FTL