guys, I need help, I ran out of ideas. Sr20 overheating

[uthemofo]

Ok guys here we go, I recently built my top end of my redtop sr. it has BC 264 cams, DW 740cc injectors, N62MAF, 28rs turbo, apexi 1.1mm head gasket, enthalpy rom tune, and nismo fpr. I finally got it running to where I was half way happy haha. But every time I take it to track it overheats like a mother. As far as cooling goes I have a koyo rad, stock clutch fan and shrowd, nismo thermostat, and s14sr waterpump AND water wetter and straight water. I have no idea why. This is pissing me off, please help.


AND to top it all off I have problems with dropping fuel pressure, which I think could be part of my overheating problem but I tried my nismo fpr and I would set it at 50psi then drive the car and get it hot and come back and the fuel pressure would be at least 5psi if not 10psi lower than when I set it. And yes I am setting this with the vac line disconnected, and it still reads that the fuel pressure is dropping of. I even tried to put my stock fpr on and it does the same thing. I recently replaced the fuelpump with a brand new walborw and it does the same thing. I am stumpped. PLEASE help me out


thanks
matt

[doubledashdrifting]

Heck with that set up I would just get rid of the stock fan and go with a duel electric fan setup.

[uthemofo]

I had duel electric fans on it before, got even hotter, then I went with a tarus fan, shill shit. Everyone at the track, who actually drives, tells me go with clutch fan, trust me.

[singlecamslam]

yeah clutch fan with shroud is a very good setup no matter what people say. Anyways have you tried bleeding your system good? I use a clutch fan and an electric puller s14 AC fan at the track at 100 + degree days. You could have air in your system. Does it still overheat with the heater on?

Edit: what are you using as a temp gauge?

[uthemofo]

I hella thought I bled the system good. and I didnt check if it overheated with the heater on. and I am using a autometer phantom 2 gauge for water temp.

[singlecamslam]

Hmmm, does your coolent level go down ever? So it only overheats at the track and not normal driving? Try using water wetter. And how old is your water pump. Maybe time for a replacement.

Edit: didnt read that you already replaced the water pump.

[uthemofo]

yea i didnt notice it going down, however I noticed it boiling in the coolant overflow tank after the tandem runs hahahha. and I am using water wetter, 2 bottles worth. and yea I replaced the waterpump like 4 months ago, maby more, but its not the one that came on the motor. And it doesnt overheat during normal driving, just track driving, beating on the motor.

[datsunrdster]

well personal experiece, check your t stat maybe theres a blockage in your cooling system. If your head was just redont maybe your having a blowby: start cold remove the rad cap if you see geiser well you have a blowby. it happened to me once. head wasnt torqued down right. Just a thought.

[uthemofo]

I am pretty sure the head is torqued down correctly, I did it my self and did it to specs. and isnt blow by in the rings?

[uthemofo]

anyone else?

[Ali 556]

yea,

if you need THE ultimit answer....Remove/delet the T-stat...your T-stat is making a buble of air and blocking the water way....

trust me and don't belive the "it won't go to oprational range" Crap....it'll like always...

Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat
Delet the T-stat

Ali

[uthemofo]

but by removing the thermostat wont the water flow too quickly, and not be able to be cooled by the radiator?

[fliprayzin240sx]

I wouldnt remove the T-stat completely. I drilled 4 holes around the T-stat and it helped me a bit. But I think it comes down to you not bleeding the system properly. Start the car, turn the heater to full blast, pop the radiator cap, massage the upper radiator hose till you fell it warming up. Jacking the front end higher helps too.

[uthemofo]

so i tore apart my cooling system the other day, I check the thermostat by boiling it and temp checking it with one of those infer-red temp sensors, it opens up all the way and at the right temp. I think my problem may be my waterjacket. I taped my temp sensor for my autometer gauge into the bleeder hole, so I cant use that bleeder hole to bleed the air out, but I did bleed it many times and made sure it had no air in it. Still not sure what the problem is.


could my problem also be not moving enough air? I had the stock bumper support on, which covered like half my intercooler and a stock hood. Could it just be I am not moving enough air? especially since I'mgoing sideways the whole time.

[Bahdra]

slope your hood by welding a 1" bracket on your hood hinges and also look around your radiator see if the air could be sneaking by to the sides or over the radiator support (and under but that is exspected) cover any holes with some sheet metal and you could also make ducting to the radiator

also something to consider is to v-mount you intercooler and radiator just cut a hole in your hood

the last thing i can think of is your water pump could be flowing fine for a dd but hitting the track full throttle could be passed its efficiency and are you 50/50 or do you have more water in your system?

[bardabe]

i honestly think there are air bubbles in your system. jack up the front of your car as high as it will go, turn on the heater at full blast, and turn the car on, for 45 mins. just let it sit and Bleed the HELL out of it. report back to us.

[mikez97]

pop off your rad. cap and see if there are bubbles and floating black stuff in it.

[uthemofo]

no never any black stuff, rad flows fine. Will try and rebleed the system, I have a underdriven pulley on the waterpump so i think that kinda helps out. Will get back to everyone after All Star BASH!!! YEEEE well see how she does on the track with the new d-max hood and I made a tublar bumper support, it will flow more air, well see. Thanks guys
Also I took out the thermostat and put a restrictor plate in there, that way it flows constiantly but still has the same flow rate as an thermostat fulley open.

thanks again
more more more answers!!!


OHHH and Im running almost all water and 2 bottles of water wetter.