My SR is Idling funkay, Sweet vid inside! (Pimp valve cover too!!!)

[Tearlessj]

Ok so I finally got my SR running. It was due to a bad CAS, then timing. Now when I let it idle, it likes to bounce up and down. I'm not sure exactly where because my gauge cluster just stopped working on me all of a sudden. It shoots a good amount of black smoke. Also when I ran inside to get the camera, I came back out to the radiator boiling. Both of the radiator hoses were hot. Could it be that I let it idle a few minutes without fans? Also dont pay any attention to the Coil pack, it was for setting the timing.

Heres a run down of the issues I'm dealing with.

1. Rough Idle
2. Over heating at idle
3. Cluster getting power but not working. (Clock isnt showing up, but the highbeam signal still shows)

Heres a video of the car in its current state. Sorry about the vid being short I didn't want to keep the car on cause of the over heating. Hopefully you guys have some ideas.

And the Valve cover... :rawk:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKtdRPm7uRo

[Jordan-S13-Silvia]

your overheating is probly cuase like you say you have no fans hooked up. IDK about the cluster its probably going to be shorted out somewhere cuase the cluster to act strange.

hmm thats strange my sr also has a rough idle or i would call it more like bounceing revs at idle from 900 to 650 countinously < iThink my spelling was wrong on that one

[Ninjabread]

Ughh sounds like timing is wayyy off.

[Tearlessj]

Ok heres what I did. I reinstalled the CAS using the FRsport guide.

Then I used a old KA spark plug cable and jammed it in between the coilpack and spark plug. Clamped the cable, hooked up the timing gun and started the motor. I turned the CAS so that the needle was lining up to the second to last notch on the crank pulley. Did I do anything wrong?

[LongGrain]

you know you can use a timing light normally with coilpacks. it worked on my sr anyway.

[Ninjabread]

Ya, i tried to run my timing light off that loop in the back, shit didn`t work at all.

Just put it over the first coilpack harness, worked fine for me.

[njd07]

ya it could be your timing gun...i heard the super expensive ones dont work good for distributless ignition. almost sounds like my car when i had z32 maf and untuned. maybe your maf wiring or the maf itself is shot.

so does your temperate needle work or your just assuming the engine is overheating due to the hot rad hoses? its normal for the hoses to get hot.

[Jordan-S13-Silvia]

I checked my timeing and it was offa link on both cams.

[Jordan-S13-Silvia]

hmm thats strange my sr also has a rough idle or i would call it more like bounceing revs at idle from 900 to 650 countinously < iThink my spelling was wrong on that one

well gues what i found you know how i said my sr has a rough or bouncing idle guess what, I toook my valve cover off and found out that my timing was off by 1 link on the intake and exhaust cams. Plus my sr sounded exactly like yours is on that video.

[Joel 180]

thats called hunting idle and its usually caused by a faulty IACV (idle air control valve). Clean it and if that doesnt work you might need a new one.

A trick is if you block off the hose to the IACV (the small one on the intake pipe next to the throttle body) the idle should smooth out (or stall if its cold)

[singlecamslam]

^^ that is exactly how mine is. Idles rough just like that, but if you pinch the hose it will idle perfect. Try pinching the hose and see if your idle is better.

[Tearlessj]

Thanks guys Ill try it tomorrow. For some reason, walked outside to start my car today and it cranks but doesnt start.

[garbury]

flooded...pull the pump fuse and crank until it starts. should be about 10 seconds of cranking usually.

that surge sounds weird, and though I've never had that problem that i remember, the timing of an SR is tricky even with the best instruction. I replaced my cas back in april and used the frsport instructions exactly and my timing was still off. You have to be really careful how those dots on the cas line up, where exactly the two links on the cam gears are in rotation, and make sure the bolts for tightening down the cas are perfectly centered. I did all this and set timing mechanically and fixed my issue right off the bat.

To time it with a gun you have to unplug the tps on a warm motor, give it a few quick revs to 2000 rpm and then let the idle settle, then check timing. using the back loop on the sr gives two readings depending on the orientation of the induction clamp (whatever its called). One reads normal and the other is 15 degrees advanced. I just flipped it over to get both reading from the same gun, so watch out. You really should set it mechanically, check to see where its at (mine was at 13 degrees) and then go for it. If you set it right, your timing gun should show that you were really close to 15 and if not, flip the induction clamp.

[Tearlessj]

Well I tried resetting the timing and it seems to idle calmer. I tried to give my car a run down the street. When I give it throttle it seems to hesitate and bog. It started to pull a little bit then die die sown and pour tons of black smoke everywhere. I think it maybe my MAF.

Another issue, All my accessories do NOT work anymore. No windows, No climate control Interior lights, seatbelts. Seems like all of this is related. Not sure. =/

[demonspeed]

I'm not a nissan guy but my DSM was doing the same thing and the problem was: the IACV and my MAF. Try to see if you can get/find/borrow a friends MAF and hook it up to see if that does the trick

[jr_ss]

Unplug your MAF and see if that helps the idling. If it does, you need a new MAF. I'd also try pulling the screw from the IACV and spraying some carb cleaner in there, with the motor off of course.

[SHIFT_Slide]

Bumping this thread because I'm having the exact same problem. Car has run fine for quite a long time and after a track day it's doing the same thing. Yes, base timing is set.. only problem is when I disconnect the TPS it'll rev to 3k and sit there. Adjusting the IACV does nothing.

Pulled codes on the ECU and I'm getting 34 (knock sensor) and 22 (fuel pump) . Put in a resistor to try and trick the ecu to think knock sensor is a-okay but still a no go.

Unplugging the 02 sensor while running does little also. I've checked for boost leaks, ran it and sprayed ether at every coupling and still nothing.

Any ideas?

[p4hang]

bump it up i got the same issues.

[93sr20240]

well mine has did this recently and I have a e5 ecu and the board inside it came unplugged I plugged it back up and started it back and it was fine but now seems like the car has a dead spot at half throttle where it feels like you let on and of the throttle but runs just like it did before the board came unplugged inside besides the deal with anything above half throttle and I have tried another mafs and thats not the problem

[singlecamslam]

Bumping this thread because I'm having the exact same problem. Car has run fine for quite a long time and after a track day it's doing the same thing. Yes, base timing is set.. only problem is when I disconnect the TPS it'll rev to 3k and sit there. Adjusting the IACV does nothing.

Pulled codes on the ECU and I'm getting 34 (knock sensor) and 22 (fuel pump) . Put in a resistor to try and trick the ecu to think knock sensor is a-okay but still a no go.

Unplugging the 02 sensor while running does little also. I've checked for boost leaks, ran it and sprayed ether at every coupling and still nothing.

Any ideas?


Where did you put the resistor for the knock sensor? And what size resistor did you use? Those are very important. Had the same issue and installed a resistor, runs great.