Bushing for Rear Subframe

[Char]

So I dropped my rear subframe and stripped it of paint in order to repaint it and fix anything that might be rusting (was actually starting to around a couple holes). Before I reinstall it I want to put something better then the stock bushing.

I originally decided to go with aluminum because this is being built as a track car (though street "legal") and I wanted the best possible. After talking it over with one of my friends I think I may go with polyurethane. His theory behind it is that using aluminum without any give in place of bushings would cause a lot of stress on the bolts connected to the frame and could cause warping or other damage. I personally agree with this though if any one else has input I wouldnt mind hearing it.

As for what bushings to use... all I could find was these.

http://phase2motorsports.stores.yahoo.net/ensusupibus1.html

Ive found other "pineapples" from URAS but from what I could tell they were just spacers and I want full out bushings.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a381/CharredChar/1989%20Nissan%20240SX/DSC00473.jpg

[dino6192]

what the hell?! two questions, is that your rusted ass subframe? if so I wouldnt be looking into new bushings I would be looking for a whole new subframe. and two. what is that orange fire lava looking thing on it?
as for the solid bushings. they are fine and are used by most 240 owners I know (including myself) and there has been no problems at all so far.

[white92_s13]

i have solid subframe bushings, solid diff mounts, and all kinds of suspension stuff, and its real clunky out back on the street. but it made the car drive so much better, feels more responsive.

[drftem]

i agree solid mounts are the way to go.

[Char]

what the hell?! two questions, is that your rusted ass subframe? if so I wouldnt be looking into new bushings I would be looking for a whole new subframe. and two. what is that orange fire lava looking thing on it?

Yes and no. In order to see if it was rusting I stripped as much paint off as I could. What you actually see that looks like rust is mostly just grime ontop of the old paint. Look again and youll see clean black spots, thats where the crap came off. And yes, thats fire. Burning out the old bushings that were pretty worthless at this point.

So everyone suggests solid mounts, has anyone has Any problems with them other then the ride being more harsh?

[dino6192]

you might notice alittle more vibration. nothing crazy. mostly on decel. in 3rd and fourth while downshifting.

[dino6192]

you might notice alittle more vibration. nothing crazy. mostly on decel. in 3rd and fourth while downshifting. ???hold on, if you just melted your old ones, how are you going to put the aluminum spacers in?

[Char]

you might notice alittle more vibration. nothing crazy. mostly on decel. in 3rd and fourth while downshifting.

Yeah from what you tend to hear on forums is that its extremely harsh, but a lot of that is just "thats what this person said this person said this person said." so its hard to really know.

hold on, if you just melted your old ones, how are you going to put the aluminum spacers in?

I knew I was going to either replace them with Poly mounts or aluminum. And I wasnt going to use spacers but actual solid mounts like the ones used in this video.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=wbUpHjPwLjk

Besides.. mine were all shot anyway so I needed new ones.

[dino6192]

ohhhh. those look nice.

[aNskY]

z32 (energy suspension) poly bushings will fit.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=7-4102G

[Char]

z32 (energy suspension) poly bushings will fit.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=7-4102G

Oh cool. Thanks.

But.. now I still dont know if I should go with aluminum ones or not. haha

[MELLO*SOS]

Just go with the solid aluminum bushings.. SPL sells a nice set. I've never read about any of these supposed problems you and your friend were thinking of...

What are you building your car for?

[ScarredOne]

As stated, NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) will increase. There's a badass whirring sound emanating out of my drivetrain in second when getting on the throttle. The worst part of the solid bushings that I've experienced is cutting out the old bushing shells (freakin' PITA) and pressing in the solid ones (not as much but still PITA). Otherwise no problems in about 10 months.

[Char]

As stated, NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) will increase. There's a badass whirring sound emanating out of my drivetrain in second when getting on the throttle. The worst part of the solid bushings that I've experienced is cutting out the old bushing shells (freakin' PITA) and pressing in the solid ones (not as much but still PITA). Otherwise no problems in about 10 months.

Noises wont bother me, as stated I have a daily driver. Thanks for the info.

[s13silady]

i have the SPL solids. no problem yet. and i love to hear the diff whine.

[[email protected]]

I originally decided to go with aluminum because this is being built as a track car (though street "legal") and I wanted the best possible. After talking it over with one of my friends I think I may go with polyurethane. His theory behind it is that using aluminum without any give in place of bushings would cause a lot of stress on the bolts connected to the frame and could cause warping or other damage. I personally agree with this though if any one else has input I wouldnt mind hearing it.


FWIW... if you look at your front suspension, you will see that your front "subframe" is mounted solidly to the chassis; if stress to the chassis or ride comfort is a concern, wouldn't you have front subframe bushings as well? The purpose of the rear subframe and diff bushings is to isolate drivetrain noise and vibration from the cabin, it is not to reduce stress to the chassis or make the ride smoother. Ride comfort is mainly controlled by your shocks/springs/coilovers, and tire/sidewall. If your drivetrain has no problems, then all you should experience when switching to solid subframe/diff bushings is an increase in gear whine from the diff...

[808_s13]

I figure i'd bump this thread since im in the market for bushings. Im currently considering the circut sports rear subframe collar kit ($75) over Energy Suspension polyurethane full replacement bushings ($65). The full solid alluminum bushings from SPL and stance are $200+.

If what this guy ^^^^ stated is correct, it really shouldnt matter between solid/poly since its not significantly contributing to suspension performance?

[ManoNegra]

I figure i'd bump this thread since im in the market for bushings. Im currently considering the circut sports rear subframe collar kit ($75) over Energy Suspension polyurethane full replacement bushings ($65). The full solid alluminum bushings from SPL and stance are $200+.

If what this guy ^^^^ stated is correct, it really shouldnt matter between solid/poly since its not significantly contributing to suspension performance?

if this car sees a good amount of street driving
I'd suggest you go with poly bushings

I like the feel of the SPL ones but the noise can be annoying at times

[310R]

I just got energy poly bushings for the rear,I guess I think was phase 2 that shows s14 and s13 use same bushing,just different procedure.If you drive on the street at all poly bushings will work great,my car that I am installing these is going to be used for time attack and street use.Friend of mine has them in his coupe and they very nice,stiff,but not bone jarring like aluminum bushings.Just my .02 cents.

[sr20sean]

i have solid bushings i bought off of BING on here. 68 shipped and they went in easily enough. typical noise