no spark and possible no fuel please help

[moses]

First of all Happy Thanksgiving. But seriously I have a problem. I just got done putting in my s13 blacktop sr20det and tried to start it up but nothing. I can hear my fuel pump coming on and i got oil pressure. Its just when I pulled the spark plugs out they were clean. It had a faint smell of fuel though. It turned over once when i sprayed carb cleaner in there but only that one time. The only idea I have is it is my ignitor. Does anyone know how to test it? And i did do my own wiring but i dont see anywhere where i would have messed with spark. Please help:confused:

[LimitedEdition]

Which wiring diagram did you use?

Assuming you just did the swap, When you did the swap, did you put the fuel lines on backwards?

[duffman1278]

Did you check for spark individually, by grounding the spark plug inside the coil, to the block?

[moses]

I used heavy throttle mostly for the wiring and i got the fuel filter line going to the front of the engine and the other line going to the back. and about the grounding the spark plug inside the coil. Is there any easy way to do this? Thanks a lot guys. And i just tried the thing that duffman1278 did with grounding the thin red/black wire and it still diddnt work.

[cotbu]

I got the fuel filter line going to the front of the engine and the other line going to the back. this is one problem swap them unless you have an aftermarket rail

[moses]

which line goes to the fuel pressure regulator. the reason i ask is because i have an after market intake manifold (greddy knockoff) and the lines are in different spots.

[LimitedEdition]

back of what? the engine? FPR is in the back.

looking at the intake manifold, which line is hooked to the left hardline and which is hook to the right hardline? iirc the feedlline (one with fuel filter on it) should be the right hardline and the return on left. DONT QUOTE ME.

[moses]

The hard lines are taken out. on the front side fuel rail you can see the fpr and that one is hooked up to the fuel filter. and the retern line is hooked up to the one on back of fuel line.

[duffman1278]

I used heavy throttle mostly for the wiring and i got the fuel filter line going to the front of the engine and the other line going to the back. and about the grounding the spark plug inside the coil. Is there any easy way to do this? Thanks a lot guys. And i just tried the thing that duffman1278 did with grounding the thin red/black wire and it still diddnt work.

Wait, did you ground the spark plug itself?? or the wire? And if you don't see spark than its either, your CAS, ignitor,wiring, or ECU issue, maybe your coilpacks. Check the resistance on the coilpacks, in the FSM for the S14 SR, its page EC-202

[moses]

how are you suppose to ground the spark plug when it is in the coil pack? wouldnt the spark plug just fall out? what is the easiest way to do it?

[duffman1278]

No no, you put the spark plug in the coil pack, so take it out of the block and than shove it in the coil, move the coil over and have the threads of the spark plug touch the metal from the block or the letters on the valve cover, after that, have someone crank the engine, you should be able to see spark, it'll be really obvious, you can't miss the light. just DON'T touch the spark plug as its being cranked, and remove the fuel pump fuse so it wont start up. I suggest grabbing the coilpack from the top, so you don't hurt yourself

[moses]

About the fuel lines in this pic he has the fuel pump hooked in the back and the other fuel line going to the front of the engine. Do you know if that is right? I got mine going the other way. How bad is it if it is hooked up backwards?

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/228716

[moses]

im new at this and i dont know how to put pics up. this is the website http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/228716. it is in the middle of the page. there talkin about something totally different but it has a pic of his fuel lines.

[g6civcx]

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g100/bgramentz/IMG_0036.jpg

Look at the pix. The supply line goes from the filter into the fuel raile like you see there. The fuel pressure regulator is the cylindrical looking thing on the fuel rail towards the front of the car.

The return line goes from the FPR to the return line on the chassis.

If you mix up these 2 lines it will not run.

http://www.srswap.com/faq/index.asp
Scroll down to Fuel System for more info.

[moses]

ok i just switched the fuel lines and still nothing, but i still cant smell fuel on the spark plugs. Also i tested to see if the spark plugs were sparking and nothing. so now i have no clue what to do. i need to find out how to check the ignitor. any ideas

[g6civcx]

Is the engine cranking?

[moses]

yes its cranking, but it only turned over once for a sec

[moses]

now i dont know if this is good news or not but i just checked all the spark plugs for spark and it turns out #3 had spark. i dont know what this means or if i can rule out anything? does anyone have any ideas? and i still cant smell any fuel on the spark plugs

[Ca_laurier]

aww i am in the same boat as you dude. i gave up and am just sending it to the local shop soon to get it fixed

[moses]

im in arkansas so im on my own. can you let me know what they find out?

[g6civcx]

yes its cranking, but it only turned over once for a sec

I would check starter connection and ground. You need to get it cranking first before you can check spark or fuel.

Nothing's turning so nothing is firing and no fuel is being sprayed into the cylinder.

[unicoladron]

ok so you said cylinder # 3 has spark. so you know the coilpack, wiring, and pug is good for cyl # 3. now it is a process of elimination. try this:

1. take the coilpack from cyl # 3 and plug it into cyl # 1 and test for spark. repeat the same steps for cyl # 2 and 4. this will determine if your ignitor is working SOMEWHAT properly. so if you do this, and you see that you have spark on cyl's # 1, 2, and 4 using the coilpack that is in good working order, your ignitor is fine, and perhaps your coilpacks, and/or coilpack wiring have gone bad. SO, if this test shows you have spark on ALL packs, perhaps your timing is off and you can follow the CAS timing procedure found on frsport.com and heavythrottle.com (aka srswap.com). also, make sure the wiring for your CAS is okay. the CAS tells the coils when to fire, so again, make sure your CAS wiring is ok and the CAS itself is alright.

EDIT: oh shit, i missed the post where you said it wasn't even really cranking. yeah, make sure your battery is good, make sure your battery terminals have a good connection, make sure your grounds are ok (clean where grounds contact chassis/engine), and make sure your lower engine harness is not shorting out anywhere.

[moses]

ok so i think i miss lead you guys. it is cranking. what i meant was it is not firing up. but did what unicoladron said to do about moving the coilpacks around and i got spark also in #1, but not in #2 and #4. it was a weak spark but my battery is dying after all these tries. im going to go get it charged but what does that mean now?

[moses]

can someone tell me how to post pics off my computer. and also where is the best place for the battery ground to hook up at?

[moses]

c mon guys i need some help. does any one know if all the black wires by the battery need to be grounded. i diddnt because none of the websites said to. And when i turn my key to the on position my ecu doesnt flash when i turn that little screw. what does all this mean? please help!!!

[unicoladron]

alright dude:

1. you can use photobucket.com or imageshack.com to host photos on-line. you load them from your digi cam to your PC, then from your PC to one of those photo hosting websites, i prefer photobucket.com, very simple to use. there is no way to directly copy files from your PC to zilvia.net.

2. you really want to perform this test with a nicely charged battery so try the test i told you to again and report back.

3. yes the negative terminal of your battery needs to be grounded to your chassis and your engine. like i stated previously, you def want to clean those contacts so a nice healthy current flows through your wiring and you have a clean ground.

4. MAKE SURE your connectors that connect to the injectors from the wiring harness are seated all the way and are secure (this happened to me once), make sure the coilpack wiring is not frayed or broken anywhere, follow them back behind your cyl head between the firewall, they lead to another connector, make sure that is secure.

but it now appears that MAYBE your ignightor is not firing on two cylinders which is a decent hypothesis at this point but i'm not to sure since you said your battery was dying, OR it's a wiring problem. did ANYONE fuck with your harness? who rewired it for the swap?

[unicoladron]

also did you do what i said to check the CAS wiring, make sure the CAS wiring harness connector is properly seated and making contact, and while your at it verify ALL wiring harness connections are secure and not corroded or anything.

[unicoladron]

again, you can basically ground anywhere that is metal on the chassis, make sure you clean all crap/paint away so you get a nice metal on metal contact. below is a picture of the OEM grounding location. the OEM 240sx s13 ground goes from the negative battery terminal > battery tray > intake mani (i used MSPAINT to indicate the intake manifold grounding location with a red box, i hope you're not color blind lol)

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/Engine_Ground.jpg

[moses]

ok i was chraging one battery and i used the other almost dead one to check where i was getting power to in my ecu and guess what i found out. i was looking the E5 pinout and for some reason the wire colors werent matching up and there were some missing where it wasnt suppose to. so i go looking around online to see if anyone eles had a ecu pinout that would work with my harness. And come to kind out that my harness matches up with a J4/J5 ECU which is a 97-98 S13 blacktop. i diddnt know they made s13s in 97-98. so do you think that i should get a different ecu or harness? Is there any was to see what year engine i have by looking at it? hopefully the company that sold me it will just give me the right ecu. This sucks. thanks for everyones help. it will be a while before i get the ecu in and hopefully it starts right up but if not, ill be back here.

[cotbu]

If you want I can walk you through a repin of the ecu harness. The wrong ECU is not enough to keep an sr20 owner down.

[moses]

well im going to see if the company can just send me the right one. If they dont then i guess i dont have a choice. ill let you know monday. How hard would that be?

[cotbu]

scale from 1-10? 1.5

[moses]

OMFG. jdmofmiami's gay ass finally sent me the right ecu after about a month and guess what it started up just fine. I got a partially dead battery which is fine and a leaky radiator which can either be fixed or upgraded and my boost gauge doesn’t work but that can probably be easily fixed. My big problem is my clutch. For some reason when I bled it and got all the air out it would not engage all the way and it would lose enough pressure to just stick down. Now I think it is a bad slave cylinder but I am not sure. I can push it in manually and it will engage fine. So my question is will the slave cylinder off the ka transmission fit on the sr transmission and can it be anything else.

[moses]

in addition to above can someone tell me the order of the c clips that hold the shift knob in. I dont remember how to get it to stick in. thanks in advance for all your help

[nissanguy13]

So my question is will the slave cylinder off the ka transmission fit on the sr transmission and can it be anything else.

Yes, I left my KA one on when I did my swap due to it being in better condition. They are exactly the same.

[moses]

Hey thanks a lot. I have a like 10 min until I can touch my car. Does anyone know of anything else that would make the slave cylinder not engage and not pressurize

[nissanguy13]

lines/dampner not bled properly (if you still have the dampner I would toss it)

[moses]

Well i dont even know what a dampner is. where is it and what does it do?

[moses]

ok i just did some research and found out what the dampner is. And im not going to lie, im kinda scared. i never bent a line before and i dont really know where to get a new one. but i also havent driven my car in about a month and some and i just heard my sr20 run pretty good for the first time and i really want to drive it. if anyone has any advise i will gladly take it. well wish me good luck.

[moses]

yo adrian i did it. J/P. that shit was hard as hell though. i am about to cream myself. ive been wanting to drive my own sr20 for about 2 years and i finally drove it up and down the block, but i need a radiator, so i might as well upgrade to an aluminum one. it doesnt run too good cold but after like 3 minutes. its probably normal though. i got a bunch of little things to still buton up so ill probably be on again tomorrow asking something. thanks for all your help.

[moses]

Hey guys I am actually driving my car around now but it seems like I have a tuning problem. When I first start the car it cannot idle for anything by itself. I have to keep pushing the throttle in and out. If I keep the throttle in one spot then it will die. Also I checked my spark plugs and I am running lean. There all white. When the car warms up it runs a lot better at idle but when I get on it about 3/4 throttle when im in gear the car stuttering at about 3300 rpm. It stutters and I think it backfires for 10 seconds and sometimes it frees up and pulls hard. I got the walbro fuel pump in. does anyone know anything I can do? My guesses are checking for vacuum leaks and checking the FPR but I don’t really know how to do that. Also I think my BOV is messing up some how. If my engine idles at 1900 then it will just start whistling. It also just started making weird noises when it blows off. It’s not the high pitch like it was doing earlier. If you can help me out on any of this I would greatly appreciate it.

[moses]

hey guys i need some help with this problem. i dont even think my BOV is working right any more

[rlpinoy]

did you switch the tubes around on the throttle body nipples? you need to connect the bov to one of the top outlets or it wont work. this happened to me and i just switched it and my bov works now.

[moses]

i dont have any nippes on the top of my throttle body. i have the blowoff valve hooked on to the bottom of my freddy intake manifold. i could change it to the spot next to it but i dont think that would work. would that make my bov leak because im pretty sure that that is my problem. it leaks out at about 1900 rpm.

[moses]

does anyone know where to hook up the BOV with the freddy intake manifold?

[deesz]

If you want I can walk you through a repin of the ecu harness.


i would like to know for future reference...

[moses]

i got some new symptoms if any can help. when i am tring to warm up my car in the mourning and i barely push the gas pedal it just dies. and there is now a weird sound coming from the head. it sounds like there is something in there getting knocked around. the sound gets louder when i down speed the engine. can anyone give me advise

[moses]

I think i have a collapsed lifter. so i am going to take it to a shop and have them pop the valve cover off and check it out since i wouldnt even know what to look for. There are some people telling me to get the solid type lifters since there almost the same price as the hydro lifters. What do you guys think? Are they any louder or will you even notice them? I heard something about you having to reshim it every 4 months but i dont know if that is true. is it? And i might as well get rocker arm stoppers installed too. right? Hes going to do it all for $600.

[moses]

finally found out what the noise was. my flywheel was lose and luckily no real damage. but i still have that idle problem and hesitation at 6psi. i can boost to 9 psi so i dont think its a boost leak. how do i troubleshoot my idle air control motor

[moses]

another one. does any one know if i can use my alternator off my ka. dont see why not since i used the lower harness.

[moses]

anyobody know if i could use the ka alternator

[moses]

nevermind i found it. still need help on my idle problem

[moses]

is it ok to run just the Greddy boost controller and not running a boost gauge. i only want one line comming off the fpr

[180sx_Drifter]

i dont think it should matter. im running a ebc and bov and i jus have the other nipple capped off. shouldnt be a problem just make sure to cap off what you are not using.

[moses]

if i did want to run a boost gauge and a boost controller how would i set it up from the fpr if its already t'ed. does anyone eles run both

[moses]

anybody got any input

[blueshark123]

You should get a vaccum block i recommend it to everyone plus it also cleans up the engine bay so u dont have a whole bunch of little t's off ur lines.

[moses]

this might be a stupid question but would it be ok if i just run my boost guage to the manifold and not t it off to the fpr? would it be an accuate reading or do you have to t it to the fpr?

[cotbu]

That's how you should do it! Yes it would be accurate!

[moses]

hey thanks a lot. i just got a aem wideband 02 sensor in and i am running lean when it is cold and hot and even thru boost. its stays around 18 the whole time. it gets a little richer when i shift but then it goes lean hardcore. anybody know what i can do before i murder my pistons?

[mnmax]

hey thanks a lot. i just got a aem wideband 02 sensor in and i am running lean when it is cold and hot and even thru boost. its stays around 18 the whole time. it gets a little richer when i shift but then it goes lean hardcore. anybody know what i can do before i murder my pistons?
lower your boost................

[moses]

i never raised my boost. i am at stock boost. i think its my iac valve. does anyone know what i could clean with and if it is easy to take out and do i have to seal it when i put it back on? thanks in advance

[mnmax]

alright... so your not getting enough fuel... hmmm.... have you made sure that your injectors are clean? and if so, then check the vacuum going to your fuel pressure regulator.

[moses]

i think my fuel is good and injectors are good so im going take off the iacv and clean it off. another question is how are you suppose to hook up a relay. there are 4 numbers and i know one is ground, power, acc, and one goes to the actual product. right?

[moses]

alright i opened up my iac valve and it looked pretty clean. how do i test it out to see if its working. i tried to just try the key to acc to see if anything would happen and nothing did. is that normal? and does anyone know how to pull codes out of a j4 ecu?

[moses]

does anyone know how to test either one?

[mnmax]

alright i opened up my iac valve and it looked pretty clean. how do i test it out to see if its working. i tried to just try the key to acc to see if anything would happen and nothing did. is that normal? and does anyone know how to pull codes out of a j4 ecu?
unless you know anybody with a conzult diagnostic program, you'll have to take your car to a nissan dealer or specialist. i'm not exactly too sure but i believe the j4 ecu doesn't have the 2 led indicators for diagnostic trouble shooting. but check it out anyways and see. whatever led's blink is a 2-digit number, after that your going to have to look up what that number is. i would check for that before you take it in since the shops will probably charge you about $50 per session

[moses]

no my ecu dosent have anything.

[mnmax]

no my ecu dosent have anything.
when looking at your ecu you need to check for a couple things. some nissan ecu's have a small cut out opening on the side where you can spot the two led's and an adjustment screw where you turn it to switch it into diagnostic mode. others you may have to remove the cover to get to the same thing. if they have neither, then yeah i would definitely have to bring it to your local nissan specialist for them to do the diagnostic. or if yoiu're adventurous enough i would suggest buying the program for yourself. it comes with the disc that you can load in your laptop and the diagnostic cable that plugs both into your laptop and diagnostic port in your car. it'll run you around $500 but it does pay off to have in the long run. not to mention you can charge your buddies to do diagnostics on their nissans as well.

[moses]

ok i just replaced my iac valve, battery, and alternator and now my idle is better but i am still running lean. i changed my spark plugs and everything. i seem to run rich after i let off the gas and my throttle is closed. can someone help me out. and also there is a small little nipple under my throttle body. does anyone know where this goes?

[moses]

anyone got any guesses

[moses]

how do you check for an exaust leak?

[moses]

y am i running lean at closed throttle

[moses]

does no one really know

[johngriff]

Did you ever calibrate the Wideband? Have you checked it against other widebands to confirm its accuracy? It IS THE AEM UNIT.

Did you do your timing setup and tps setup procedure correctly? Data Log some loaded runs? Go take it for a few dyno pulls and ask the dyno operator what he thinks.

[moses]

i did not mess with the timing or the tps. the sticker was still on the cas so i diddnt mess with it. my idle is good. how would i mess with the tps

[johngriff]

Yeah, check timing and TPS voltage.

[moses]

can you tell me how to do that

[moses]

i am still running lean. is 39 psi ok when im at idle with vacume. what is stock suppose to be and is it suppose to drop to about 35psi when i let go of the throttle after reving it up?

[moses]

update. ok i changed out the mafs and now i am running rich. i thought i had weak spark so i changed the ignitor and it runs the same. i am so tired of this car. i also have a afc neo on my car now that is set to stock settings. does anyone know what is wrong with my car.

[moses]

i just did a couple of tests and this is what i got.
everything pluged in started and ran rich ,12's and under,reved past 2500, unpluged each spark plug and each changed idle
unplugged maf and ran at 14's for a second and then went back to rich
car warmed, maf and afc neo unpluged still ran rich. plugged in maf and no difference, cant rev past 2500. plugged in afc neo and died instantly.
wont start with neo plugged in now. i guess because maf signal is ran thru the neo.
does anyone know what my problem is. i changed a lot of bulshit so there cant be much more. changed ignitor,mafs,iacv,
only thing i havent changed out was temp sensor,but my temp gauge works if that counts
HELP PLEASE. I AM TIRED OF THIS CAR

[moses]

somebody help me out. i dont know where to look

[moses]

my fuel pressure is at 41 with vacume and 47 without. i know this is high but is it enough to make my fuel ratio go to the 10's and make my car run shitty

[moses]

anyone know if 4 psi can make me run rich. also what should my mafs read on my afc neo

[miggypq21]

4 PSI of boost? If so then yes you will definitely run rich bro. I'm not sure how it is for SR's but your MAFS should read close to 5 volts with KOEO, with KOER it should be reading close to 1 volt, do you know what it's reading

[moses]

i was talking about 4 psi of fuel pressure. i dont know how to read the mafs voltage. can someone help me out there? and could timing make me run rich? when a car goes into limp mode does it even affect timing. my car is shitty if my maf is plugged in and doesnt even start when its warmed but is always running rich.

[cincyse_ryan]

your fuel pressure should be at around 36 w/ vaccum line off... 42-44 with it on...
if you haven't messed with the timing, it should be fine, but you need to check your CAS position to be sure.
what is your wideband reading at full throttle?

[moses]

i think you have it backwards but a lot of people are telling me that that is not the problem. the cas has not been moved since the sticker is still on it. I cant get my car warm and run it because it turns off with the maf in. it is a used maf so does anyone think that is a bad maf and someone lied and said it was good.

[moses]

i plugged in my afc neo and it said that my maf input voltage was 5.2 and my out voltage was 5.2. the book doesnt say if that is normal. does anyone know if that is what it is suppose to be at? im broke but i think i am going to break down and buy a fpr. anyone know of place to get it cheap and is it ok to go with megan?

[moses]

ok now i just read that i am maxing out my maf. how the hell am i doing this with the car not even running. i know for a fact that i ran the wires right and shielded them. could it be the maf. im just going to run 1 wire outside the car from the b/w in the maf to the afc and to the ecu. if its still wrong there is nothing i can do.

[moses]

ok i just ran a line outside of the car and my maf still says 5.2 volts which is maxed out. i dont understand what this can be since it is not wiring. is it the maf. someone please help me out.

[moses]

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk46/aks240/attachment.jpg

this is a test run for posting images. this is my j4 ecu. i was looking at one on ebay and his looked different. he said the little extra part on top with the 2 straps means my ecu is chipped. is this true because that could be y i am having troubles. what do you think?

[moses]

update: eventhough you guys diddnt really help me out at the end i just want to say thanks a lot guys. i replaced my chipped ecu and it runs good now. there is a little miss but im sure with new spark plugs, changed oil and a little more tlc my car should finally run how it should. 150 down the freeway.