oh no! not another sr problem thread [Archive] - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

rps13drfter

02-07-2007, 03:57 PM

ok so i just read about 2 hours worth of searching the forums to find some things out that could be my problem but none seemed to be the same problems im having.

Engine/Setup: Red sr20det
Greddy RS bov
Apexi Gt Exhaust
no tuning of any kind, running w/ no o2 sensor

Symtoms: i started my car this morning like normal drive it down the main street everything running same as usual as i merged on the highway my car started to hesitate, buck, loss tons of power, looked at my boost to see its was at 1-2 let off and it was as loud as it would be at 8psi. Pull over checked the vacuums, IC pipes couplings nothing found, got back on the highway going much slower (grandma accelerating) no problems untill i give it that lil bit of gas then all symtoms come back. Seems like im running super rich as well

Stuff i tried already: Checking my spark plugs to find white residue on all four no black, going outside right now to check the maf/tps/coilpack

If anyone had these exact same problems and fixed please let me know or just anything i might be missing to check.

steve shadows

02-07-2007, 04:41 PM

Oh No! is right

did you search...Like at all?

Prolly crappy wiring job on your harness to MAF.

rps13drfter

02-07-2007, 05:07 PM

Oh No! is right

did you search...Like at all?

Prolly crappy wiring job on your harness to MAF.

did you even try to read the first part of my post??? i did the wiring to the tee even used oem wires for it, and that worked fine for a year untill now so i know its not that

i just unpluged the tps and started the car and it stumbled around worse than when its pluged in (which means?) maf unpluged wouldnt allow over 2.5 rpms.

i then started the car and easily rev'ed up my rpm's all the way to about 6 grand in neutral with no problems at all then about 6500pms a mild backfire and continued to redline let off and it idled normal

steve shadows

02-07-2007, 05:20 PM

yeah I read it. did you search for hesitate?

I mean

-maf
-tps
-cas
-timing
-vacum leak
-ic coupler
-exaust leak
-bad fuel pump
-BAD SPARK PLUG or GAP on plugs:ghey:
-ignition issue
-Bad Ground for engine to chasis.
-bad alternator and dead battery
-Screwying Wiring (even if it was blessed by Nismo gods like you say).

need more to work with here.

what plugs are in there.

rps13drfter

02-07-2007, 05:49 PM

The ones since i had the car ( bosh plat 2)

whats the easiest way to check the coilpacks by myself, kind of hard to look out for a spark when your the one having to start the car

TAMTANIUM

02-07-2007, 05:57 PM

Try to get another person to help you out. Have 2 or 4 people to help you out will solve the problem faster. Are you sure all your hoses, intake pipe, intercooler pipes are all good? No exhaust leak? I'm sure it gotta be one of those above. Open your valve cover and see if all your rocker arms are still in place.

rps13drfter

02-07-2007, 06:55 PM

i did three scans over the vacuums/IC plumbing but you know how someone can miss something so easily, i have a good exhaust leak at the gasket between elbow and DP, but that was been that way for about week, waiting on a part.

rps13drfter

02-08-2007, 08:18 PM

ok, so checked the spark plugs, which had white tips, residue on bumper which brings me to do a compression check....

JDMClifford

02-08-2007, 08:57 PM

recheck all of the intercooler piping, sounds like its the piping, take ita ll of and put ot back on. you might not se it but it could be disconnected.

nrg

02-09-2007, 12:37 AM

it's boost leak or your wire harness is grounding out somewhere.

rps13drfter

02-09-2007, 06:28 AM

where would be some frequently found ground out problems? and how would an boost leak show me residue on my bumper?

georgesal

02-09-2007, 02:43 PM

it can also be a fuel cut off, probably fomr my experience i would check your fuel pressure at idle and while driving it, with a long hose and a pressure guage t'd off after the fuel filter

rps13drfter

02-10-2007, 08:03 PM

where could the fuel cut-off be coming from though? i have the walbro fuel pump in there. does it really matter what kind of gauge i use or should i just go ahead and pick up the fuel pressure gauge? could it be something with my fuel filter?

also does anyone know how to or what materials i need to make that homemade pipe to fit on my intake system to pressurize the system with a compressor?

rps13drfter

02-13-2007, 03:39 PM

ok just ran the compression and the results are......1:150 2: 155 3: 150 4: 155

i found some minor leaks but shouldnt be causing that much problem, cuz i know i had one bigger than those with little problems so i still have my problem any help appreciated, like most of you on here, its my daily

rps13drfter

02-13-2007, 07:41 PM

ok just fixed the gasket on the dp and elbow started the car and sounds a lot worse. what could be causing that?

240mike

02-13-2007, 07:57 PM

put an o2 sensor that you know is good in it.. so it doesnt run rich all the time..
i dont know why you wouldnt run one?!?

check the filter on your maf... if air doesnt flow the same all the way around it ,, it will run shity.. mainly at idle though..

make sure that none of your injectors are leaking..

start with a fuel pressure gauge..
start the car..
turn it off..
see if the pressure drops..
if the pressure bleeds off..
it is eather a bad injector or fuel pressure regulator..

if not pm me..

240mike

02-13-2007, 07:58 PM

mine was doing that too..

nis240sxsan

02-13-2007, 08:54 PM

my friend had the same problem, he had a boost leak though...

rps13drfter

02-13-2007, 10:37 PM

longdy

02-13-2007, 10:55 PM

well the main reason i didnt have one was when i got the car the o2 wire was never extended so i did that a lil while ago to see if the 02 sensor in it was good or bad but it was bad so just disconected it, but it ran fine but now im kicking myself in the ass for not getting a new one.

as for nis240sx man where was your friends boost leak, i been searching for any other ones, but could be missing one cuz im not using to big of a compressor being im in a shit hole of a town for school

well i have the same problem right now just get the vac tester and see if it holds boost at all and on top of that will the vac machine is on go around to all the cuplings, vacuum and whatever else that has to do with boost pressure and spray it with a bottle of water and soap mixture and it an area starts to bubble that means there is a boost leak right there... hope that helps if not AIM me at counterlick

laters

longdy

02-13-2007, 10:58 PM

and dont worry i am having the same problem!!!...lol thats what i did and the results was that the BOV was leaking (i dont know why it would either????) and there was a cupling that was ripped...lol i dont know how all of these things happen... so try that and post results.....

rps13drfter

02-14-2007, 06:15 AM

well i have the same problem right now just get the vac tester and see if it holds boost at all and on top of that will the vac machine is on go around to all the cuplings, vacuum and whatever else that has to do with boost pressure and spray it with a bottle of water and soap mixture and it an area starts to bubble that means there is a boost leak right there... hope that helps if not AIM me at counterlick

laters

well i only have access to a lil crappy dc compressor at the moment and i cant get it to push over 5 lbs.....wtf so i will still try the soapy water thing when i get back from school.

rps13drfter

02-14-2007, 04:48 PM

it's boost leak or your wire harness is grounding out somewhere.

i actually found the old terminal (i guess the last person who owned the car when they did they relocation didnt feel like doing it right) touching bare to the cold pipe so i taped that up, but still no go

rps13drfter

02-14-2007, 07:04 PM

:::UPDATE:::

just started the car and tested the coilpacks, car run different each time i pulled out 1-4 coilpacks. but before i did that the car seemed to have a bit worse idle, and seems to be running richer

nrg

02-14-2007, 08:38 PM

check your timing. pull the tps, check timing when it's under 950rpm. should be at 15degree (2nd line from the right). check for engine codes too. check couplin for cracks.

rps13drfter

02-14-2007, 10:11 PM

check your timing. pull the tps, check timing when it's under 950rpm. should be at 15degree (2nd line from the right). check for engine codes too. check couplin for cracks.

im trying to get my hands on a timing gun right now, and i checked the couplins for cracks today, came out all good (and that was under pressure)

also im worried about the top of the spark plug being white, unlike the silver color they normally are

rps13drfter

02-14-2007, 11:09 PM

is anyone else running bosch plat 2 on there sr's? seems to be some air gap crap, does this mean there is not set gap? if there is what the hell is it? what might be the easist way for me to test the spark plugs? im by myself in crap town of morgan city.

im also thinking about removing the injectors to check to see if they are working fine, but if i take them out ill need to change the o-ring correct? so when i got to parts store which i ask for the upper or lower and 96 300z tt?

nrg

02-15-2007, 01:33 AM

You should get rid of those bosch plugs. You need to run NGK plugs. NGK BKR7E part #6097. they're already pre gaped to .028. If you want iridiums of those same plugs, get the BKR7E-IX

1.99 each at napa auto parts. autozone, kargen, nor pepboys doesnt carry these.

iridium: http://phase2motorsports.stores.yahoo.net/ngkirrasppln.html

I have a feeling you bought plugs for Sentra SE-R (sr20de) which are wrong for RWD sr20det. Those stock plugs are step 5 heat range and pre gapped to .035. stock rwd sr20det are step 6 with .028, but step 7 with .028 is what MOST of us run.

rps13drfter

02-15-2007, 06:16 AM

ok i will go ahead and try the reg ngk's ill try to get them from napa and hopefully they might help, but how much are the iridiums recommended

rps13drfter

02-15-2007, 05:09 PM

:UPDATE:

put the ngk's in from napa run much better than before, but is still giving me some small low pops, and when i drive it has small backfires and some minor symtoms of before but in such a low rpm more in higher rpms but in all is running better.

still dont have a good O2 sensor in.......could this be causing me running rich

still havnt checked time.....maybe timing a bit off?

any help appreciated

santacruisin

02-15-2007, 05:23 PM

have you taken off the valve cover and had a look at what is going on? Maybe bent valve, cracked rocker arm or some other nonsense is messing up your higher revs. Just a suggestion. Couldn't hurt to look.

240mike

02-15-2007, 07:42 PM

if you do not have an o2 sensor in the ecu runs @ .450 mv..
it is a fail safe.. like a limp home mode..
the o2 reads from .100 to .900
low is rich,, high is lean..
it tells the ecu if the motor is running rich or lean..
and that is how it your ecu knows how much fuel to dump in..
with-out an o2 your motor will run rich at idle and lean at high revs..

the white means to lean.. very bad..
lowering the spark plug gap will advance the timing a little bit..(wont show up on a gun)

raising the gap to much and the boost will blow out the spark and make it pop a little..

i think .28 is fine for a stock car..

i still think that your injectors are leaking..
just because you take them out doesnt mean you have to replace tho o-rings,, but i would.. they are like 5.00 each set from napa..

could be a boost leak too.. but thats easy to find..
i would start with a can of brake cleaner an spray around the intake plentum to see if any gaskets are leaking.. then check the boost piping and bov..

if nothing works ill buy your car..

240mike

02-15-2007, 07:51 PM

oh and check the tps with a volt meter
put it on volts hit the gas slowly
i think an sr will start at .75 an max at 4.00
just probe the signal wire with the red one and ground the black one any where (of the volt meter)
make sure the car is on but not running

bongnak

02-15-2007, 07:58 PM

you check the bov it sounds like a leaky blow off valve. yeah its easy to check for boost leaks on the charge pipes but a little tricky when its the bov that is causing the leak... thats prob why you hear the turbo more at 1 pound of boost

rps13drfter

02-15-2007, 11:55 PM

i have not taken the valve cover off yet. i will be doing that soon if the timing isnt messed up. with the brake cleaner i just clean around gaskets with that, then use the soapy water or how? and for the boost leaks the only ones i know i have are the bov from when i put soapy water around the flange which i am trying to fix right now, but is being a :madfawk:

240mike

02-18-2007, 03:08 PM

start the car and spray brake or carb cleaner around the intake parts and listen for a raise in idle.. if it is a big leak it will drop then raise..

i bet that if you take off the v/c you wont find shit thats causing your problem..

i just changed my injector seals and it fixed mine..
i was just having the same problem..

rps13drfter

02-22-2007, 06:06 PM

fixed boost leak around the bov that i saw, got a real nice pull out of 1st gear then as soon as i hit 2nd all symtoms started again. i pulled the harness off each injector while motor was running, everyone came out to be working (leaking....not sure, have been trying to get the right set but napa ordered a set that didn't come with the smaller o-ring? any other ideas? still no timing check

statik

02-22-2007, 10:28 PM

it's boost leak or your wire harness is grounding out somewhere.

I can attest to that, I've had a wire rub through on the intake manifold over time and grounded itself out. Car would start to run like shit when you gave it any gas. Just something else to add to the list to check =]

rps13drfter

02-22-2007, 11:59 PM

I can attest to that, I've had a wire rub through on the intake manifold over time and grounded itself out. Car would start to run like shit when you gave it any gas. Just something else to add to the list to check =]

will be checking on that one tomorow

Ameer

02-23-2007, 12:14 AM

little back fire is normal. If you feel that it is running like shit then you have a problem.

rps13drfter

02-23-2007, 06:11 AM

little back fire is normal. If you feel that it is running like shit then you have a problem.

its obvious it is running like shit

kuramaya

02-23-2007, 06:35 AM

rps13drfter

02-23-2007, 02:00 PM

Think plugs were white from prior lean running. You now are running rich I would guess. Check all Intercooler piping again. Sometimes just a crack will cause the problem. A crack you can not see until under boost and it gives way. Also could be your BOV. Not running recirculated could be an issue. Was the BOV on and fine before this started? Is your BOV too loose? Close it all the way off to trouble shoot. Did the CAS get banged one way or the other? Vacuum/Boost Leak is my guess, then you need to fix that lean problem. Stock pump needs to go, as well as all the fuel lines under the hood and throw an aftermarket FPG and FPR on there and see what your fuel is. Have someone throw a wideband on it and double check you AFR's under boost once you get this problem fixed

i will dbl check all piping again once the motor cools off. the bov seemed to work fine before the problem (i will try putting the screw all the way in, its a greddy type-rs) i never touched or put anything around the CAS before all this. i already have a walbro pump, will look into getting all parts you listed.

also my idle is starting to be real shit, small pops but not much of a idle change as in rpm range

rps13drfter

02-23-2007, 04:00 PM

http://img468.imageshack.us/img468/5635/0223071554rp0.th.jpg (http://img468.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0223071554rp0.jpg)
if i was running as rich as i thought...why do my plugs look like this? (means lean)

and some pics of the build-up in my tip after all these problems have started

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/1205/0223071645pw7.th.jpg (http://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0223071645pw7.jpg)
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/9362/0223071646wh1.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0223071646wh1.jpg)

and i just tried getting new gas, and screwing the adjustment screw in the bov all the way in and nothing changed but harder to blow off

also out of curiousity why do the symptoms happen after about 4 psi now on my gauge

steve shadows

02-23-2007, 04:06 PM

This thread reminds me of this very short clip...

http://stevenmansour.com/files/koolaid_ohyeah_fg.mov

all these people having these types of issues...it always (almost always) goes back to shotty wiring job..

or shotty something in the wiring. A lot of people are just afraid to admit it.

ps. yeah if its not some stupid vaccum/boost issue

nrg

02-23-2007, 04:07 PM

because you have a boost leak somewhere!
your plugs look fine, your so call buildup is fine.

frumdig

02-23-2007, 04:16 PM

rps13drfter

02-23-2007, 05:06 PM

i still dont understand why you just dont replace the o2 sensor... all these things your checking are almost irrelevant without an o2 sensor... i mean come on, there is a reason its there.... it affects your AFR, esp under boost...

i ran the car plenty of times with out it, thats why im not to worried about it.

im going to try and put a new bov set-up i have laying around

Vatche

02-23-2007, 10:00 PM

how could you say those plugs are fine, they are really white.

mine arent that white and i run lean

ranger240

02-23-2007, 10:43 PM

what about your injectors/gaskets orings whatever.. from threads it seems like youve gone though your ignition fairly well... but id sugest checking that out before you do some serious work like taking the head off.. couldnt hurt.

my garbage ka24e ran like hell.. hesistating like you describe.. after plugs cap wires rotor and cleaning the MAF.. replacing the injector seals finally solved the problem... pm me if that works cause itd intrest me to know

nrg

02-25-2007, 01:55 AM

how could you say those plugs are fine, they are really white.

mine arent that white and i run lean

from the looks of his plugs, it seems lean but i bet his car was idling right before he pulled the plug. to really check for the correct plug condition, you have to run the car hard and turn it off instantly! to check the plugs.

rps13drfter

02-25-2007, 10:04 AM

from the looks of his plugs, it seems lean but i bet his car was idling right before he pulled the plug. to really check for the correct plug condition, you have to run the car hard and turn it off instantly! to check the plugs.

i did a ten min drive home from school going about 55-60 then when i got home turned right off, let cool down for 10 min. then pulled