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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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02-05-2011, 07:16 PM | #2462 | |
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What a fucking rip. (Sorry if this has already been discussed) |
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02-05-2011, 10:26 PM | #2463 |
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The pricing on the website isn't right. If you call shipping is a lot less. az_240 got his for $1100 shipped.
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02-05-2011, 10:33 PM | #2464 | |
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Quote:
To the poster that mentioned the moonface roll center adjusters, they do some good if you plan to just keep your car stock. But you can save more money just by raising your car. Just my opinion.
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02-06-2011, 12:50 PM | #2465 |
02-08-2011, 07:57 AM | #2467 |
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I had the same question about shipping when I bought them. I just emailed them and shipping came out to ~$90.
Thanks mmdb, I'll get a hold of him and see what he can do. I was just going to run the stock bushings for a while and then switch them out later to save $ and also to see if they are really that bad for drifting. I imagine for road racing where you are holding a line through a long sweeper you would notice more of a difference. |
02-08-2011, 08:34 AM | #2468 |
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Singlecamslam - on this page here: UB Machine Inc.
PN 48-1210 That's the housing you will need for the high misalignment spherical bearing. Sorry for the late response, but I'm pretty much over cars right now and have barely been on any car websites lately. |
02-08-2011, 06:26 PM | #2469 | |
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Sooooooooo......why wouldn't this work? Rod Ends They should fit right in and only require some custom misalignment bushings.
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02-08-2011, 07:58 PM | #2470 |
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Doesnt Def sell a complete rear spindle bearing kit? Or it this just a cheaper alternative, i didnt see a price on the link. Looks very doable
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02-08-2011, 08:16 PM | #2471 | |
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Quote:
bushing ODs need to be held to .0001" to work. |
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02-08-2011, 08:19 PM | #2472 | |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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Quote:
go nuts |
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02-08-2011, 09:56 PM | #2473 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I figured to center it you could just use two pieces of tubing to make sure its lined up in the middle. Say the hole on the spindle is 30mm wide, the bearing housing is 12mm wide, so two 9mm pieces of tubing made flush with the outside of the spindle hole would mean the bearing was centered. Some red lock tight on those pieces of tubing would help keep the bearing from moving. Not sure how that idea sounds, but it doesn't seem too terrible. I'm no engineer, just trying to figure out more cost effective ways for people willing to get their hands dirty. No disrespect to Def or Skull Works at all, they make an excellent product. I have their Z32 shock mount sphericals and I love them.
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02-09-2011, 12:01 AM | #2474 | |||
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Quote:
don't know if something is available off the shelf that would work Quote:
they warped/crushed when I pressed them in onto the upright Quote:
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02-09-2011, 07:03 AM | #2475 |
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Ah I understand now. Thank you for the advice.
The misalignment spacers are the only thing I am still mulling over. My friend's dad owns a machine shop and I can get some stuff made there super cheap. I just have to draw it up in a format they can use.
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02-11-2011, 01:01 AM | #2476 |
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So, I had a few questions in track. Like, how does it affect the car? What give and take is there from widening or narrowing the track? I ask this because on my Z32 I have pushed out the rear a good amount from stock and the front is pushed out as well, but no where near as much as the rears, when compared to stock. And I'm just trying to see if I'm screwing with something too much and if evening out the change in track, front and rear, would be more ideal.
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02-11-2011, 11:32 AM | #2478 | |
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Quote:
Then, for both, it will increase the leverage on your suspension, effectively altering the motion ratio of your suspension slightly. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I don't think it's something to be too worried about in my opinion.
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02-12-2011, 11:34 AM | #2479 | |
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Quote:
The misalignment bushings will need to be custom as you're also finding. It's a lot of machining trying to do it the way you're thinking. I know, I bought the stuff and almost went through with it. Easier to just get stuff made to work with the stock uprights... which at that point, you might want to look into just buying a set of super sweet RUSBs and making your life easy.
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02-17-2011, 08:25 PM | #2480 |
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Boxed my LCA's today.
Knuckles are next. Just for fun because I'll be ordering DW knuckles in a couple months. Anyone have any more feedback on whatever setups they have? Alignment tweaks maybe?
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02-18-2011, 01:01 AM | #2481 |
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dont you generally want to remove the bump stop? why did you not box the arms higher up to the bushing? and what thickness you used, looks like 14 gauge to me?
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02-18-2011, 05:58 AM | #2482 |
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I used 1/8in plate. I don't even know what guage that is hah, but it's basically the same thickness as the control arm.
I wanted the bumpstop just for an extra safetey measure, as I'm pretty low and I don't know where the tie rod end is going to go when I modify the knuckles. I don't really think I'll miss two degrees of steering lock. Also, I didn't want to heat up the rubber busing too much by welding close to it. If the bushing had been out, I would have welded farther up. They were new control arms and I didn't feel like pressing the bushing out to gain marginally more strength.
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02-22-2011, 11:23 PM | #2487 |
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On Macphearson strut, the angle of the shock is the caster.
On multilink or double a-arm suspension, the angle of the line through the upper and lower pivot point when compared to a line perpendicular to the floor is your caster angle. The angle of the shock does not affect caster in these two scenarios. |
02-23-2011, 12:59 AM | #2488 |
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haha simple mistake I suppose.
You are thinking the actual pulling of the wheel forward is the caster. Pulling the wheel forward, means the shock angle is changing. haha Caster, YAY
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02-23-2011, 11:44 AM | #2489 |
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anti-squat, best thread ever, kpi, roll center, steering angle, suspension |
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