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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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06-10-2010, 12:32 PM | #961 | |
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06-11-2010, 12:32 AM | #962 | |
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He updated on his Socal-Drift build thread:
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06-12-2010, 05:33 AM | #963 |
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Ok, so I am not sure if this issue has been covered with the parts shop max steering knuckles or not.
They drop the tie rod end's down, which is good, but you cant adjust them back up to stock if need be. Also, they correct roll center issues with the tie rods, but what about the lower control arm. That still mounts in stock location, so when the wheel travels up and down the lca and the tie rods will not be working together how they were designed to in stock layout. This was brought up to me by Shinji Minawa when I asked him if he would weld them together for me if I ordered their parts kit. He said they he, and many other people who started making knuckles 6 or 7 years ago tried this and failed. I want to know if I am missing something or not. I really wanted these knuckles but I am not sure if they are going to be worth it. I LOVE everything else that I have ever owned from PSM, just a little unsure now after talking to Shinji.
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06-12-2010, 10:04 AM | #964 | |
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2. PSM knuckles do nothing for roll center. Nothing at all. 3. As much as people freak out about the tie rod and LCA curves being the same, it's been widely proven that this is not as big of a deal as people make it out to be, and you can improve bump steer by spacing the tie rod ends. 4. Many people have used PSM knuckles. They have worked fine for what they are. In fact, Matt Powers has hit the wall a couple times, and the only thing that has survived are the knuckles. If you're really worried, just send your knuckles to PSM to have them weld them.
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06-12-2010, 10:45 AM | #965 |
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I understand that you can improve bump steer by lowering the tie rod ends on a lowered car.
The parts shop max knuckles lower the tie rod ends, doesn't this affect the roll center in some way? Do you have any actual proof, other than hear say, that the lca's and tie rods having different geometry from each other (the fact that they are no longer parallel to each other) has no negative effect on the car? If there is a negative effect because of the LCA, what do you do to correct that? Since their knuckles are so different, why hasn't anybody else taken this approach?
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06-12-2010, 11:02 AM | #966 |
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Roll center is calculated by the pivot points of the lower control arms, not the tie rods. Having tie rods some what parallel to lca helps eliminate bumpsteer, not roll center.
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06-12-2010, 11:41 AM | #967 |
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When the tie rod is spaced down and the LCA is not then you help correct bump steer. Correcting bump steer and not correcting roll center isn't a negative thing, it just isn't perfect. You ideally want to correct them both, but there is no affordable piece you can just buy and fix it, you'll have to make something if you want it to be cost effective.
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06-12-2010, 12:28 PM | #968 |
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You can't space the tie rods down much with the stock FLCA. From the little bit of data I collected on my car with stock FLCA, spacing the tie rods down about .5" was decent for bumpsteer. The PSM stuff spaces it down WAY more than this, and my data showed it to make the bumpsteer very bad.
That said, drifting doesn't really follow the traditional rules on setup, so you could possibly get a better response at high angle by using a bit of bumpsteer to help correct for ackermann etc.
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06-12-2010, 01:30 PM | #969 | |
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Well, let's see. I had SPL v4 tie rod ends spaced down one inch from stock. My car was just on top of the tread on 195/60/15s. Car had way less bumpsteer than stock, and I liked the way it felt more than spaced down .75 inch. Tie rods were parallel with the FLCAs.
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06-13-2010, 01:49 AM | #972 |
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The first prototype PSM knuckles!
These look to be somewhere between stock and driftworks (need a side by side), so they may just be perfect. Come with heim joints as well. Man am I glad I waited this out. Front aluminum knuckles coming out, rear drop knuckles going to be available stateside, so excited!
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06-13-2010, 12:07 PM | #976 | |
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They were originally saying 3/4 of an inch, or 20mm. Don't know if that's what they stuck with or not.
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06-14-2010, 01:09 AM | #981 |
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The way I picture it is backwards. I see that that when you raise the pickups or extend them out the hub stay's in the same location. I just can't picture how the hub changes I guess. So is the idea to keep the hub as close to stock location as possible while modifying the pickup points?
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06-14-2010, 01:24 AM | #982 |
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^ Imagine how your car sits now, and the hub position relative to the knuckle it's attached to and imagine keeping your knuckle, suspension arms, etc in the same location. Now mentally detach the and take the hub, which is connected to the wheel and move it upwards 90 degrees to any distance allowed by the wheel well. What happens as the wheel moves closer into the wheel well? The car sits lower correct? In lieu of lowering your car with your coilovers, use the imaginary knuckles to move your wheel closer into the wheel well resulting in a lowered ride, with the same suspension geometry as was before using the coilovers.
Another, crude way of thinking about it is say there's no such thing as coilovers but a fixed shock - you CANNOT adjust it. Now add the knuckles. Ta-da, a lower car with the same suspension geometry. Does it necessarily mean you change the pick up points? I wouldn't think so. For a multilink suspension, I'd be cautious to, but in my opinion I'd be at ease knowing they didn't change, otherwise there's a great benefit in having a unit that has adjustable pickup points (one of DEF's goals developing his front knuckles).
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06-14-2010, 07:09 AM | #986 | |
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I'm pretty sure the idea was to be able to lower it significantly, bot not entirely on the coilover. But it still needs roll centre correction. So it's built in to the knuckle. However, if I am wrong, someone correct me. Now.. lets use drop spindles and that extreme subframe mod!! |
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06-14-2010, 09:26 AM | #987 | |
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More in depth explanation found HERE.
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06-14-2010, 10:16 AM | #988 | ||
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Except for the fact that raising your subframe that much is a bad idea. You will have zero squat and zero traction. Quote:
Those, good sir, are steel. Thought it was interesting how little of a difference there seems to be between the distances the hub bolts are from the camber arm pickup between the PSM and Driftworks knuckles: Maybe I'm just bad at judging things visually? Maybe PSM dropped the knuckle more? Maybe Driftworks dropped the knuckle less? And maybe this is just me too, but doesn't it look like the PSM knuckle is more "compact" vertically? There seem to be a lot of small differences between all three knuckles. Dan from Parts Shop MAX mentioned that it looks like Driftworks drops the lower control arms more than the rest, and the fact that you can't raise the hub more than 25mm and not make the axle boot contact the camber arm.
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06-14-2010, 04:59 PM | #989 | |
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I agree that the psm knuckles look alittle more "compact", but I think it's b/c they cut down on a lot of material and the welds make it look like there's a lot more going on than there really is. I do like how big the pick up points are compared to the DW though. |
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06-14-2010, 05:11 PM | #990 | ||
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How is raising the subframe bad though? I thought raisng it was a good thing, as it would increase traction. Hence why companies sell the risers that put it up against the frames. Or is it just that a SEVERE amount is bad? Quote:
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anti-squat, best thread ever, kpi, roll center, steering angle, suspension |
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