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Old 12-31-2007, 07:35 PM   #91
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any new developments on the car? or pics of motor?
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Old 12-31-2007, 07:43 PM   #92
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smoothy satin black like that s15 would be totally badass for sure.

you make me mad I didnt go for 10.5" or 11" rears on my wide FC
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Old 01-01-2008, 12:18 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiresmokes13 View Post
i hate to see perfectly good panels get chopped up haha
me too...

at leasti ts coming out nice though.
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Old 01-01-2008, 09:19 AM   #94
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Omg, I just started drilling to spot my frame runners and shock towers.



what a hooker, I can't beleive people do this to their entire car.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:50 PM   #95
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315's is no joke for sure!


and are you going to be filling in the front vents at all???


and thanks for the negy rep (from whoever) I love no name reps haha.
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Old 01-01-2008, 05:03 PM   #96
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I took a different approach on the passener side as the inner wheel house was so drasticly different from the drivers side i was able to reuse alot of the metal savin me a lot of time, anyway heres the pics.

















at this time id like to thank origin gor making such a subpar product.
any thought on what to do with this??



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Old 01-01-2008, 05:48 PM   #97
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i used origin on my s13, i had to cut the part that went around the tail light off, and the parts that hung below the lower body line. when they molded them the edges of those areas like twisted, also had some thickness sanding issues to even the edges before 3m and rivits.
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Old 01-01-2008, 05:58 PM   #98
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anymore pictures of this car?
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:07 PM   #99
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sexy s14, i can already see that thing glistening
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:52 PM   #100
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anymore pictures of this car?
there is a pic request thread
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:41 AM   #101
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cut the tail end off and add some bondo under the panel so it fits like you want it to?

I had the same issue on my FC. also on my FC, I was able to do both inner wheel wells like you did on your 2nd one. cut only the outer metal along the wheel well arc then use the inner sheetmetal (the roof of the wheel well) to cover the gap, just slice it for flexibility and then peel out the metal to meet with the outer metal, and weld to the outer metal then cut the extra off. easy peasy.
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:15 PM   #102
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cut the corners off, they're useless.
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:26 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumballf355 View Post
If you're planning on competition or tracking the car hard... just rivit the overfenders on. Molding them on is only for show cars and ballers with cash to burn. (Alot of extra work)

I agree. Also if it is an everyday driver or track, using epoxy over time will promote cracking in the paint. epoxy will give a little where as rivets wont and you wont have to worry about cracked paint. you can get rivets to smooth out real nice where you cant tell that they are there...

i would say rivet it...
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:45 PM   #104
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Thumbs up

nice post, good lookin DYI
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Old 01-02-2008, 10:43 PM   #105
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looks very nice...
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Old 01-11-2008, 03:18 PM   #106
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any new updates? your s14 is one of my favorites!! positive rep for you.. these pictures will help me alot when i throw overfenders on my s14. extremely helpfull.

Jon

ps. i loved the crazy pull before too... and if you don't mind me asking.. what are the specs on your wheels?
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Old 01-11-2008, 03:36 PM   #107
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18 by 10 265/30 F
18 by 11 295/30 R

I want updates as well!
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Old 01-11-2008, 03:45 PM   #108
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Quote:
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18 by 10 265/30 F
18 by 11 295/30 R

I want updates as well!
315's in the rearrrrrrr
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:08 PM   #109
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you work too slow, I hate you for going Kouki.

I need to talk to you btw, you suck at getting back to people
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:47 PM   #110
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lookin good!
use heat and form it around the end?
seems like it'd work.. frp are weak against heat, right?
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Old 01-11-2008, 06:58 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300hp owen View Post
cut the tail end off and add some bondo under the panel so it fits like you want it to?

I had the same issue on my FC. also on my FC, I was able to do both inner wheel wells like you did on your 2nd one. cut only the outer metal along the wheel well arc then use the inner sheetmetal (the roof of the wheel well) to cover the gap, just slice it for flexibility and then peel out the metal to meet with the outer metal, and weld to the outer metal then cut the extra off. easy peasy.
whatever you do DON'T I repeat DON'T use bondo. fuck bondo bondo is used to fill MINOR inperfections, use Kitty hair. the can look kind of like bondo but its allot different. you are pretty much laying down actual fiberglass like if it was bondo. it will flex and it won't crack. so mold it with that. and once you got it for the most part straight, and u wanna be anal and make it look like glass just break out a real nice thin layer of body filler aka bondo and make it look smooth as glass. i molded quite a few wide body's when i worked @ a body shop so take it from my experience. DON'T MOLD WITH BONDO.
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:07 PM   #112
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beautiful work buddy. cant wait to see the turn around gl
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Old 01-12-2008, 07:34 AM   #113
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origin rear fenders used to be know for their perfect fit... used to be
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Old 01-12-2008, 07:59 AM   #114
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yea the fitment sucks now, im having such a problem gettig those rears to fit right you dont know, i hope to be done today actually.
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Old 01-12-2008, 02:54 PM   #115
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finnally got the damn thing to fit decent, heres some pics










and just for fun


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Old 01-12-2008, 03:00 PM   #116
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I love those tires.

Sweet looking dog btw.
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Old 01-12-2008, 03:04 PM   #117
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fucking nuts! love wheels,
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Old 07-20-2008, 06:40 PM   #118
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Take it from a body guy and a man who molded his quarters on. DON'T MOLD THEM!!! Just rivet them on. Seal up the metal really good then paint the quarter, then paint the over fender. Then rivet on the over fender. My reasoning is that: You will then have good corrosion protection underneath the new quarter and water will drain through the over fender rather than pooling in between the old and new quarter.
?im a body guy too...if you mold the quarters on there shouldnt be a (puddle)effect as it would be molded/smoothed out.as long as the panel is sealed underneath there shouldnt be a corrosion problem.also if your reallt worried about that issue you coulg seal it and then run a sheet of 3m over it.they use this method on new cars(usually seen underneath the rear quarters where the bumper meets up with it.)they do this so that if the chassis flexis abit it wont chaffe the metal.Hope that helps and sorry to ramble on!!
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Old 10-23-2008, 08:43 AM   #119
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Any Updates? Did this ever get done?
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:03 AM   #120
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http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/210776...ighlight=450sx

he moved onto the motor.
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