fckillerbee

raise the rear psi (makes it easier to keep sliding)...get better front tires ...maybe something with more sidewall so your turn in actually works, and you aren't understeering till the car actually rotates.

The bumpsteer is cause your car is low....maybe add a little bit of caster so you aren't fighting the wheel too much?

I like the course...your lines looked good.

jasoncanseeoh

My car has never had much rear grip. 225/40/18 tires and I would run about 40-60psi at the track.

If I had the chance, I would go back and give my car more rear grip (softer dampening in the rear, less tire pressure, etc) and test it out. But, for some reason I just got comfy with my setup and never looked back. Not sure when the next time I'll be hitting the track is, but I had a few questions.

Quick questions about grip.
-If I added more grip, does that help prevent spinning out? (Not that I've had issues with spinning or anything, I'm just wondering if it would keep the car 'balanced' in a sense...)

-What advantages will I get by adding more grip?

-Is there such a thing as too much grip? Not enough grip?

I have about 250whp, which doesn't seem much to me. I always felt like if I added more grip, I'd have to clutch kick a bunch and fight the car to keep it sideways.

Idk what I'm saying. I'm new to this whole grip thing. Someone learn me!!!
I suppose it would be best if I had more testing time on the track to play with settings, but people's opinions on the topic is always great.

vibe240

thanks for your comments !

here are 2 runs from the other track that we run quite often , I know I should get more angles but if I want to run the whole track linking turn I need to sacrifice some angles for speed as I don't have a lot of powers.













I'm pretty stock ... welded vlsd , megan coil ,sr20 running 205/55r16 , 205/40r17 , 215/45r17 .225/50r17 or 235/45r17 at 40psi

Need to put the boost at 12psi pretty soon

__________________

jasoncanseeoh

Nobody haz da inputz abowt da grip?

karl wasabi

You solved your problem for finding more grip. Run a bigger rear tire, grippier rear tire, lower the tire pressure to like 35, run a softer spring, maybe get an S14 rear subframe.

More grip in the rear won't necessarily prevent you from spinning out, but it will allow you to accelerate through corners instead of just staying at one constant speed in the corner. You shouldn't have any problems spinning a 245 or 255 with your power.

__________________
Karl Wasabi Private Seller - Review Thread

fckillerbee

I think I ran 245's on JXN's stock SR for the TOP GUN event years ago.

too much grip, and you understeer, too little grip and you oversteer. Like Karl said...softer spring rates, lower tire pressure, subframe, all these things add grip. The course also plays a big role with how much power and tire you should use...but that's later. Lower the tire pressure first (5 psi at a time) and see how you like it. I have buddies running 12 psi cold on occasion depending on tire grip.....you could also remove rear sway bar to add a lot of grip. It's just a matter of finding the right setup to your liking.

Landers

everytime i try to embed it says video does not exist.

In car from East coast bash
S15 sr with gtx2863 810cc injectors and jim wolf tune
Stance xr coilovers, and Stance arms

215/40 17 RT615k in front @ 35psi
225/45 17 or 235/45 17 Kendas in the rear @ 38 psi

__________________
d-faction.com

di-devol

^Here ya go


and, dammmmm, that was close in the first shot!

iamtheyi

I enjoyed your video very much lol.

__________________

SERUM

How many of you guys have lockouts washers or whatever? I have adjustable arms, and after maybe two to three nights out my alignment is fucked again. Would having the eccentrics in backwards matter?

I noticed this when I quit being able to transition. Looked under the car and what do ya know, they've turned themselves.

fckillerbee

use locktite.

KA240SX808

Well what your suppose to do (at least logic would tell me) put the eccentric bolt at its minimum adjustment (all the way in) and tighten it and use your arm to adjust. That way the chances of the bolt coming loose or messing up your alignment again is minimal because the bolt has no where to go as far as adjustment.

I had my car like that for years and never had a problem with them coming loose.
I did opt for the BB lockouts later though.

__________________
- Looking for some parts:
* PigNose SMIC Grille/Vent P# 62697-44F00 *
LMK What you guys got

iamtheyi

I am currently deciding between picking up new wheels or spending that money towards chassis rigidity/suspension parts.

Would buying aftermarket sway bars (thinking about Suspension Technique) and strut bars, different chassis stiffening parts make enough of a difference in drifting a stock KA? Would it benefit me a lot more than lighter wheels and being cool with them?

__________________

fckillerbee

tires.

sway bar isn't a huge factor on low power cars as much as tires would be.

buy a good set of grippy front tires.

KA: no front sway, add rear sway, helps the car rotate a little easier. Add grip, remove rear sway. Front sway helps stabilize the front a little while drifting. Usually you aren't fighting grip enough to add front sway. Watch Aasbo's video of gatebill in his 2J 86. All that steering feedback is from not having a legit front sway.

iamtheyi

Thanks. Do you have any sticky tire recommendations? I was talking to someone yesterday and they said Federal 595 RSR's were real sticky.

Also, any rear sway bar recommendations? Or can I just throw anything on there?

__________________

fckillerbee

RSR's are nice. They are grippy right out of the bag. My next set I want to try the new 615k models. Heard good things.

anything stiffer than stock. But you could always just raise the tire pressure 10lbs too.

whyteboi

Play with your air pressures. You'll be surprised what you can do with just some air.



Stock KA24DE with coils, welded diff, and a good alignment. I was running about 65psi or so on the rear this day.

iamtheyi

huh. Maybe I should bump the psi more in the rear then. I run 35 psi up front and 50 psi in the rear. Running heavy G35 17's doesn't help either lol.

On Balcony I was able to kind of do it. Couldn't really keep it because the clutch was dying but at Adam's motosports I definitely could not carry it. But I'm not going back to Adam's so it is irrelevant to my setup now.

__________________

whyteboi

What tire size are you running on the rear? You'll need alot more pressure running 17's. I was running 205/60/15 on the rear there. I run 15's since I have a bunch of teardrops and because they're cheap

iamtheyi

Currently going to be running 215/45/17. Used to run 225 but it was hard to spin those fat boys.

__________________

fckillerbee

run some 205 40's. They are cheaper as well as less grippy.

think of sidewall like suspension. The more sidewall you have, the more compression under accel. The more grip you will get. stiffen the sidewall by adding more air. That will allow them to balloon and create a little less contact patch as well as creating less compression.

run your front tires around 32 for better grip overall.

bataangpinoy

how would 205/40/17 look on a 17x9 or 17x8?

fckillerbee

17x9

bataangpinoy

that shit cray.

pacotaco345

I regret getting my deep dish cobra reps instead of these wheels

__________________

fckillerbee

I love cobra reps with dish. They always looked cool.

cody from mulsanne painted his purple, and they looked rad!

cmg

Does anyone droop their rear springs?

After several setups and testing different things to see what was suitable for me I figured out a few things for myself. First, I always put very slight preload on my front springs and droop the rear springs (amount hasnt seemed to matter). Second, I generally dont run a front sway bar but keep a stock rear one. Third, It helps to have somewhere between 3.5-4* negative camber in the front to help with traction and a flat contact patch at full lock (have had pbm knuckles and a custom set made by myself).

It seems as though initiating and transistions are smoother without the front sway bar. Also when drooping the springs it seems to squat a little more and helps with a little traction. All of my setups have been from stock s13 sr power range to now ~400hp sr. With the higher power setup its helpful to have a grippy set of rear tires but lowering my tire pressure and/or running directional tires the opposite way seems to help with grip too.

Anyone have any input or ideas on this?

pacotaco345

I saw his car in person a couple times, I don't have overfenders though just stock metal pulled to hell lol.



I was throwin around the idea of painting them white but idk.. Either way my next set of rear tires is gonna be a 245/40 instead of the current 225/45's. Its a lil lower and has a lil more rear camber then this pic now

EDIT.. Make that a lot lower haha

To be somewhat relevant... what psi were you running with your stock ka and big fat wheels? I did a 2nd gear lots of throttle clutchkick the other day (not full throttle) and the car just gripped.. But this was with almost 0 camber and 40 psi, now I have the same psi and about 3* camber

__________________

karl wasabi

I've always heard you should never droop your coilovers. Why don't you set the spring perches so that the spring is secured top and bottom? Don't add any pre-load but just make sure the spring doesn't move up and down. You'll still have a little droop with the full range of your shock.

If you want more squat soften the rear dampening/spring a bit and if you need more raise the front suspension.

__________________
Karl Wasabi Private Seller - Review Thread

KA240SX808

+1. Adding Spring droop/play just takes away shock travel. I just set the Rears to hold the springs with no preload.

Unless you don't have Independent height adjust-ability is why your doing that?

__________________
- Looking for some parts:
* PigNose SMIC Grille/Vent P# 62697-44F00 *
LMK What you guys got