di-devol

Ok, going back to the dyno on Monday. Boost is at 11.5afr and running good. Take 2!

LuckyX2

Good luck!

Mr. Phonso

Stock head bolts as well?

huffandpuff00

di-devol You found what was making the car run so lean?

di-devol

Seems to be a lot of little things. The main one is a exhaust leak that slowed lean on the dyno. The injector wiring was a little iffy, same with maf wiring. Running good, idle is lean only for a few seconds occasionally now.

Mr. Phonso

Just wondering, is there anyone out there who used Cody's setup with the exception of having a .86 installed? I am wondering if that can get 450whp if the .64 will do 400 whp.

LuckyX2

4x4le got around 450whp with his .86 I think.

Pretty sure that was with E85 but he had stock cams too, so things even out...

tabasco122

So now im really fucked. I think my turbo is blown after less than 400 miles. Not sure what to do, i just emailed ken from enjuku to see what he suggests.


here are my symptoms.

oil in intake tube pre turbo, pcv isnt hooked up to intake yet so that cant be it
oil burning occasionally when i start the car, its whiteish blue, and i have no antifreeze, just distilled and water wetter
compression shows 150 across the board, same as before i installed the new stuff
BOV appears to be opening fine, but i have a light mist of oil on the intake pipe in front of where the bov discharges

even if it was having compressor surge, i dont see how i can damage a turbo that quickly on 8-10psi. kind of at a loss of what to do.

Conrad 2NR

Do you have the restrictor installed in your oil lines to the turbo?

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tabasco122

yes, appropriate restrictor was installed

cotbu

Check to see if it's a drain problem.
remove compressor intake and look for oil and or feel for excessive play.
check intercooler for oil, and or throttle body
if you're burning oil out of the exhaust, it could be a few things so try to narrow it down to just turbo or not. remove 02 housing and inspect turbine for oil and play.

I'll say if it's(oil) blowing from the compressor to the IM then it might be a blown turbo.
If it's coming from the turbine side, it could be a blown turbo or a drain issue.
Not saying that if it's a drain problem the turbo is not blown, just saying I've seen kinked drain lines repaired, fix that issue.

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tabasco122

yeah, ill check the drain. it was too short to kink really, i cut it to fit the length pretty good.

codyace

You'd be surprised how they do kink and then cause all sorts of oil smoke issues. I didn't believe it, but even on my own roomates car it happened...we were stumped and didn't even NOTICE it until we yanked the engine. Talk about a long way to fix a hose.

I've also stopped using the OEM drain hoses...I know the preformed part helps, but they all seem to tear/rip after a while. I've since gone to the local hydraulic store, bought pushlock heavy hose, and used hose clamps...won't collapse and oil resistant FTW

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tabasco122

meh, started it earlier and it was smoking again. not a lot but for a good while. it looks white again. i have 150psi compression all across. do you think i need to do a leakdown test? can i possibly have a headgasket breach elsewhere? i have an apexi hg and arp studs, block and head were decked when the engine was built.

Def

I've run up to 20-21 psi on my stock SR longblock (that was on E85). I normally kept the E10 boost around 18-19 psi with a GT2871R. Stock longblock, never opened up except HKS Step 1 264 cams. Stock HG, stock head bolts, stock pistons, stock valve springs etc.


This motor also had thousands of miles on the track without issue (usually about 14 psi there, mostly for heat reasons in TX on pump gas).


These engines are way stronger than most think, but it's greedy people wanting that last 5-10 rwhp to brag about on the dynosheet that has them running in phantom knock all the time, and that's the measure of a "good tune" in uninformed S-chassis-land, so you end up with people popping perfectly good stock components with detonation and not even knowing it. Instead you get stuff like, "the stock HG can't hold over 300 rwhp."

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codyace

I know it sucks to make you tear it off, but I'd pull the exhaust manifold off the head...if it's oily in there you know you've got a valve steam seal starting.

Also, pull the turbo compressor outlet off...is it coated with oil?

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tabasco122

ugh, pretty sure i have oil in my coolant...

tabasco122

So I've decided before I pull the engine I will try to just retorque the head bolts. If that doesn't work then I will try a new head gasket.

di-devol

Well, hit the dyno this morning. AFR's are a constant 11.5 all the way through. Clutch started slipping at 18psi, couldn't get a good enough reading to say any numbers though.
So I made more that what a Excedy stage 2 is rated for ahaha.

New clutch then solid numbers to come later. Drifting happens Saturday with stock wg pressure.

EsChassisLove

You were probably at around 350wtq.

The Hypersingle is considered a "stage 3" and holds around 380-400wtq iirc.

My block and head are at the machine shop for the sleeves, porting, valve resizing, bronze valve guides and honing. .

Not excited to see the final bill. Expecting a 800-1200 bill just for that haha.

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tabasco122

im still trying to get money to order my apexi. im so broke...

Weedm

i was wondering why one of the cars at drift crown was so familiar haha it was di devol. forgot your real name bud.

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di-devol

lol, It's Tim. The clutch slipped the whole time at the event. I couldn't drift in third at all, even at 15psi. I'm looking at clutches right now, then back to the dyno for Rnd #3.
Dam.

Weedm

some luck huh haha. pretty tough to narrow down a nice clutch with the selection that's out there. im actually selling my Z to get another SR'd hatch. looking to go the .64 gt2871r route for a nice 350 whp daily. will need your knowledge tim! you and alex are nice guys, right? lol

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Pinggg

For all you guys looking for clutches, I just order a Competition twin disc. I was debating between this and a RPS clutch but I got a great deal on Competiton. Many of my buddys run it and love it. The high HP Evo guy also run this clutch and have no commplaint.

codyace

JWT or RPS for sure

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EsChassisLove

I went with a Competition stage 4 sprung.

Anyone use that one before? I'll be dailying this car alot. I wonder how this is gonna be during city driving haha

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homeslicej2

First clutch I had on the SR was a Competition 6-puck sprung. I hated it for city driving. Chattery & grabby, was hard to modulate the pedal in stop and go. It was either on or off, no slipping, no easy starts. Was fine for cruising or hard launches. Switched to an ACT HDSS full-face (rated to 362 lb/ft) around 4 yrs ago and love it. Drives nearly like stock, holds perfect for hard launches, easy to slip, doesn't overheat. Great clutch imo.

EsChassisLove

So I'm in for a fun break in period lol

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Pinggg

Don't worry bro, i got the competition twin disc to break in!