jr_ss

Well, I've been building this for the past year or so. I had a built S14 SR but threw a rocker arm, hated life, and went VVL. This is my timeline and progression on the build thus far.

The Specs:

Stock P11 head w/ SuperTech DVS and stock cams for now...
Mazworx VVL conversion kit including IM
My old forged SR20DET bottomend
ID1000's
Walbro 255 to surge, Bosch 044 from surge to rail
GTX3076R
My old Peakboost manifold
Exedy Twin Disk

Intake manifold and Q45 TB...


Huge intake ports...


Super clean valve train w/ Supertech DVS in the highest seat pressure available for high RPM.


Forged bottomend with VVL oil pump bolted up...


BNIB Exedy twin disc I found locally for a killer deal.


Manifold mocked up on the head, I figured out here the factory fuse/relay box were going to have to be relocated, oh well...


I overlaid my VVL intake gasket on my S14 SR gasket, its amazing how much bigger the ports are. No wonder this head flows so much better.


Lot of parts that came in to get the head bolted on to my block...


So I wanted to get the VVL head flowbenched, just to have some figures in hand and verify what I had been seeing on the web... The top numbers are the VE head and the bottom numbers are from a highport SR head.

Flow test was done on a completely stock SR20VE head. Machine used was a Superflow 600 test bench at 28" of H20 and low 80's temp.

Intake
Lift CFM
.050 49
.100 86.2
.150 122.6
.200 158.6
.250 192.5
.300 225
.350 249.2
.400 263.5
.450 272.9

Exhaust

Lift CFM
.050 46.5
.100 86
.150 118.5
.200 147
.250 171
.300 183.5
.350 188.8
.400 193
.450 196

For some added information, I've done some search on Highport heads and found these numbers...

intake test at 28in H2O, temp 88deg F

Lift CFM
.060 43.4
.080 60.7
.120 92.9
.180 134.5
.260 175.6
.340 192..3
.440 201.8
.460 202.3
.480 203.5
.500 203.6


exhaust test at 28in H2O, temp 95deg F

Lift CFM
.100 41.1
.140 75.0
.200 98.2
.240 106.5
.280 110.2
.360 113.0
.440 114.3
.480 114.7
.500 114.9

More to come...

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My SR20VET

bc.

neat! what kind of power are you looking for?

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* S14SR22 * 9.0 c/r * GT3071R *

dreamin240sx

nissan should of put these heads on the sr from the start haha

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RB POWA!!!!!!!!

jr_ss

Continuing on with the build...

I purchased Tomei adj. cam gears, Mazworx proprietary headstuds and an Apexi HG.


With the parts above I was able to get the head bolted up and cams/gears installed...




I cut the mounting tab off the DET water neck, ground it down and bead blasted it to get it back to a factory texture...


I stripped, degreased, bead blasted, and had AN fittings welded to the VC. Then I painted it with Duplicolor paint and cleared it...




Somewhere at this point I took the motor up to Mazworx. I wanted a professional shop to set up the cam gears and make sure they were on centerline. While the motor was at Mazworx, I cleaned and organized the garage enough to squeek the car in. Now I could finally start tearing the remaining items out to prep for some repairs and paint.




One of the repairs needing attention. Some how rust formed between the pinch weld here. I had to drill out spot welds, remove the damaged metal and reweld in a new piece...



After a few weeks the motor was ready to be picked up. Being that I was out of town on business for a few weeks my father picked my motor up for me. Once it was home, I started bolting items back on to it...

Exedy, Mazworx trans adapter plate and VC bolted on...


Modified waterneck to accept the S14 SR's 1" coolant hose...


I mocked up the IM once more for the hell of it... I forgot how huge it was until I bolted it on every time...



My turbo finally arrived, so I rushed home after work to slap it on. Obviously it was for mock up purposes only, but it looks pretty sick...




Thanks for looking, more to come...

__________________
My SR20VET

jr_ss

More....

Like I said in the last post, I cleaned the garage up enough to get the car in to begin the engine bay strip.



I recieved my TougeFactory surgetank kit minus the pumps as they were already in my posession. My only gripe with the kit was that the return line that they supplied with the kit wasn't long enough to reach all the way back to the surge tank, so you had to splice in a short piece of pipe. I contacted Jamie over there and explained my concern, he had a piece long enough shipped to my door within a few days time.






Incase you missed it, my Walbro 255 will be the lift pump to the surge tank. From the surge tank I'll be using a Bosch 044 and -6an lines to feed 1000cc Injector Dynamic'c injectors.



Before I bolted my Z32 trans to the back of my VET I had it rebuilt. It had started to develope the typical 4th gear grind and I didn't feel like having to pull the trans when it finally went.


As usual thanks for looking, more to come...

__________________
My SR20VET

jr_ss

I actually started the bay strip while it was outside. I removed most items out there simply because there was more room to move around the whole car. Once it was actually in the garage all that remained was the front suspension and crossmember. Once they were removed, I started welding up the holes left when I removed the factory battery tray and the area on the passenger side strut tower. I wasn't looking to plug/patch all the holes in the engine bay, although in hindsight, I should've. I also used holesaws to clearance and make the holes I made for IC pipes truly round.





Here's the repair needed on the passenger side strut tower... I also removed all seam sealer forward of the rear of the strut towers. I was going to be torn up during the bead blasting and made sanding much easier.



I brought home our bead blaster from work to clean any and all surface rust off before I started to body fill areas in the bay where I had welded/ground.



3M undercoated the fender wells after I degreased and sanded them down. I went all the way up to the upper frame rails simply because I wanted to.


After a shit ton of hours, sanding, body filling and sanding more, I finally got it where I wanted it. It was an huge amount of work. My hands ached for days and at times went numb from the process. I kept telling myself it was going to be worth it in the end....





Once the sanding had ceased, I had to wrap the car in drop cloth for laying down the primer. I wiped the bay down a total of 3 times, making sure I didn't miss any areas that could potentially cause problems. First two times took a total of 3hrs, I called it a night after that. I did a thorough final wipe down right before I sprayed the primer. I hit all the problematic/tight areas first, to make sure they were coated, then I came back and bombed the rest. I am by no means a professional painter, but I have a fair amount of time behind a spray gun.



All primed... It turned out pretty damn good for a make shift paint booth in my home garage. It was a great relief seeing the car all one color, it started too actually look like something.





As usual, thanks for looking...

__________________
My SR20VET

jr_ss

This setup saw 491rwhp on pump gas and a ROM tune prior to my acquisition of it. I'd like to see 500+ on pump and 600 on race...

They did, just not on a boosted version until the X-trail in early 2000.

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My SR20VET

Pinggg

Sr <3 I'm looking forward to this build, definitely following this one .
Props bro.

jr_ss

The guide coat was probably more of a PITA than actually sanding and prepping for primer. You had to sand a certain way otherwise you get high and low spots from the pressure of your fingers. That and getting into all the tiny areas to make it completely smooth sucked.


I don't have any pictures of the entire bay completely sanded without seam sealer, but you get the idea...




And with the tape removed. When Toby said that this stuff sets up fast it was an understatement. I literally finished the driver's side and it was already setting up and becoming difficult to remove the tape. Luckily I didn't leave it all night like he did. It was off within 30mins of applying the sealer.


I finished seam sealing at about 12am, had the car on the trailer by 1am and at my shop by 2am. I didn't want the car sitting outside in the dewy air so I moved some trucks around at the shop to get it in there. I had an appointment at 7am to drop the car off for paint so it was a huge push to get it ready by then. I dropped the car off and 6hrs later I brought it home, painted and cleared. The guy I used does amazing paint work, I couldn't be happier how it turned out.




Don't go anywhere, there is still more...

__________________
My SR20VET

jr_ss

So now that the bay is painted, I could start cleaning all the components that were going to find their way back into the bay... Here it is a few hours after bolting things in.





While the crossmember was out I bead blasted it and had it powdercoated gloss black, I think it turned out rad. I bought Nismo steering rack bushings and new inner and adj, outer tierods from SPL.



Adapter to convert my hardline to accept an AN fitting.



Instead of the traditional install from the top, I opted to hoist the car up and roll the motor/tranny underneath and lower the body on to the crossmember. This helped for two reasons, I didn't need an extra hand and it kept me from scratching the paint.




The motor is finally in and bolted up to the frame rails... I slapped the manifolds on just to get an idea.



Because of the limited clearance I have behind the head and my bulkhead, I had to use Mazworx CAS kit. It plugs the original hole on the back of the head and installs through the front of the head.





More to come, thanks for looking as always...

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My SR20VET

Drftr915

So beautiful, and motivating, I am just about to go to work at putting my vvl head on, let me know if you have any advice.

Edwin562

everything is soo clean. bravo on the good work.

fearlessKouki

very clean!! good luck!

Killa_D

Very clean indeed loving the attention to detailing the motor looks amazing props.

stilmissmysti

Glad someone knows how to do shhh right

B-Rod15

My hat is off to you sir ! Awesome work!!

KiLLeR2001

Awesome bay! I will be doing the same thing come this fall/winter. Any tips or tricks you can give that you encountered during the whole process?

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jdm2191

Bay looks awesome, even better with the engine!

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My Build: The "Coupe De Ville" 1JZ Build!!

jellomonk

Man it's looking awesome, can't wait to see where you go from here.

jr_ss

Thank you. If you have any questions feel free to PM me, I'll help you out if possible.

Thank you kind sir. I'm keeping my eye on "Whitey"

Thanks...

Thank you sir.

Right in my eyes I suppose, not sure about others, but thank you for the compliment.

Thank you sir

Killer, my biggest piece of advice, take your time. Do not rush it because that's when you start to cut corners. Trust me, there will be times where your fed up and just want it done. Keep everything clean and where latex gloves to keep grease/oils from your hands off the primer or prepped surfaces. PM me if you have any specific questions.

Thanks, I have more coming tonight...

Give it 12hrs, you'll see...

Thanks for all the kind words guys...

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My SR20VET

onehundredoctane

I have lost all interest in my SR build after seeing how big those intake ports are. I had no idea there was that much of a difference!

Do work man! Looking good!

Imarvin240

Let me know how you like your GTX turbo once its all running. I have been waiting for over a year now for my BW EFR turbo and will most likely be switching to a GTX series if it takes any longer hah

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jr_ss

Thank you sir! I too was unaware of the difference in port sizes. I had both heads side by side at one point to look at. It's amazing that they are both SR heads.

Marvin, I will let you know how I like it. I had a GT3071R on the old SR setup, so I can't really compare the two. Either way, boost should come on soon and strong. I'm hearing these new GTX turbos hit like your being rear ended.

Anyway, more on the build...

Once I finished with the sensor, I went on to making an aluminum bracket to mount my VVL solenoid block to the passenger strut tower. I wanted to hide the block as much as possible, so this was the final mounting location. I actually had to flip the bracket 180 because once the IACV was mounted on the underside of the manifold, it wouldn't allow the manifold to bolt up to the head. I ended up with an 1/8 gap between the IACV and the solenoid block when the IM is bolted into place. Then I ran the feed/purge lines to their respective ports.




I think around the beginning of the year I had my manifold and turbo ex. housing sent to Zfever so they could get it thermal coated for me. I went and picked it up two weeks later on my way to a dyno meet in Tampa.



As plenty of us know, when you remove the condenser from an s-chassis it leaves a huge void on the sides of the radiator. So, with a little time I had available, I made some airdams for the sides of the radiator. It's 1/8 aluminum, we have an abundance of it at work, so I cut what I needed. Air obviously travels in the path of least resistance, so leaving those holes unattended would've lowered my cooling efficieny and SR's have a tendancy to run hot, so this was a little bit of insurance. I will be sealing the tighter areas with some weather stripping, however this alone is a cheap and effective mod and will serve it's purpose. Dont mind the bent fins, I'll be straightening the majority of them out. I've had this radiator since 06' and it's treated me well. The hole in the second picture is for my oil cooler lines. I plan to have my cooler mounted right behind the grill. More on that later.





I converted my old atmospheric oil catch can into a vacuum sourced catch can. I'll be utilizing an exhaust venturi for the vacuum source, which stills needs tobe installed into my down pipe.
Making the lines and lines completed below...



Oil cooler lines thus far. I need to purchase some more line to finish the run from the thermostat to the cooler itself.



And my throttle cable that is hidden until it pokes out to land in the bracket.


At this point I've begun to slow down on the build. A lot of little things that are getting put together, but they aren't interesting. I've also started the relocation of the fuse/relay box and I'll get pictures of it when it's mounted. It's a very tedious task doing the wiring, a lot of patience is needed. Sometimes I swear I have tourette's and scream obscenities when I screw up or get lost. Thanks for looking, still pluggin away at her. I'll leave it with a current status picture of the engine bay.

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My SR20VET

Yellow4g63

VVL for life. What cams are you running again? Stock 2.0? or the N1's?

Never mind I see stock. Did you mod your exhaust manifold yet? If it's a DE flange on it the ports don't line up. The manifold needs to go up a little and it will be golden.

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95 240sx RB20 415whp
91 Nx2000 VVL yo

jr_ss

Yes, stock cams...

I already took care of the manifold issue. Oblonged the bolt holes then used a borescope to make sure Cyl 1&4 were up high enough. Then I torqued it down...

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My SR20VET

tricky_ab

This is amazing so far! Subscribed for sure!

Drftr915

I subscribed too, very beautiful worksmanship, pure art. I hope mine comes together like this.

ixfxi

cool project

PoorMans180SX

JR, this thing looks like it's going to be a beast. I'll be looking forward to your updates.

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Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs.

CamryOnBronze

Man, this looks awesome- great job! The pics of you sanding the bay made me cringe... I for sure do NOT miss that! I'm sure you don't either, haha.

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