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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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08-02-2013, 08:36 AM | #3391 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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My precision 2871r has been nothing but awesome too.
Its forsale too if anyone is interested. *Here*
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08-02-2013, 06:07 PM | #3393 |
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Are the gt2860rs(disco potato), gt2871r, and gtx28xx CHRA's all the same specs except for the compressor wheel? All are ball Bearing. All should have the same turbine wheel. Any differences?
The reason I am asking is because i am think about having pure turbo put a 2867 billet wheel onto my gt2860rs. My CHRA is in great condition and if its just a matter of a new wheel, machining my housing and balancing for $450. that seems like a better route than 1200 for a new turbo. |
08-02-2013, 07:23 PM | #3394 | |
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08-04-2013, 08:13 PM | #3395 | |
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Quote:
Got very little drive time on this set up, so its just an all around depressing situation...haha top-mount/twinscoll would have been the dream setup,... but most the good manifolds are barely under a grand themselves
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08-10-2013, 09:57 PM | #3396 |
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just want to say that this thread is awesome
lots of good info in here. just finished installing a basic snow performance meth kit on my s13 sr20. everything went smoothly and she runs great. holy crap what a difference the meth is. i know this is the gt2871r thread but my turbo isn't too far off (2860rs). am actually thinking of sending my turbo in to pure and having them do the billet wheel upgrade and a rebuild. Anybody know how much an extra 2lb/min would be in terms of horsepower? guessing not very much but all the little things add up (imo). and after reading through this thread, i think some jim wolf s3hl cams are in order. i absolutely love the fast spool of the 28rs but would like some beefy top end power too. rev limit will stay at 7200 for drifting as i know these things can swing 8k all day. blah blah blah haha my s13 is used for drift/drag/daily and canyon runner. current set up S13 coupe s13 redtop gt2860rs AEM EMS map conversion stock block stock head tomei rocker arm stoppers tomei exhaust manifold 3" turbo back. greddy fmic kit snow performance basic meth kit with 2.5gallon reservoir and some suspension stuff |
08-11-2013, 01:44 AM | #3398 |
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haven't done any logs. my cable is mia right now might have to buy another one. but drove it like 300 miles today in the middle of the day and she was pulling hard all day. never felt the "heat soak" kick in which was nice.
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08-11-2013, 11:37 AM | #3400 | |
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Fuel pressure AFR AITs Oil pressure Oil temp Tranny temp Boost Battery voltage EGT Speed Coolant temp And more. If there's a sensor for it, it will read it. Everyone with an AEM EMS Should have one or two. You can program fail safes into each parameter also. I swear I'm not an AEM salesman lol
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08-11-2013, 11:45 AM | #3401 | ||
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Quote:
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edit: can you cycle through all parameters on one gauge? |
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08-11-2013, 01:27 PM | #3402 |
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so first thing this morning i warmed up the sr took her out for a cruise and to dial in the boost/meth a little bit. drove maybe 5 miles, most of which was at wot. stopped at the store for some things, felt around on the engine to see if any cooling had been taking place and sure as shit, i slap my hand on the back runner of the intake mani and its complete icy cool to the touch. i was pretty stoked at that point. well drove it home and decided to let it heat soak for a while. she sat for a few hours while i ate breakfast and chilled out. went back out and intake manifold was hotter than a mofo. well took it back out anyway to see if the meth would kinda relieve some of the heat soak if i ripped on it for a while. well it did, got back home and the back runner was back to being cool to the touch. I'm blown away by the ability of a simple water meth kit.
ill be doing a full write up and diy guide for anyone that wants to install their own kit. i searched around and didn't find much info on meth'd srs until i found this thread. i think it could help a lot of the younger crowd keep their motors together. many people on here(not saying anyone in this thread) running lack luster tunes on a high performance motor. methanol should help "buffer" a shitty tune pretty well. may not be the best route to take when it comes to tuning but can't deny those cold ait's and more fuel for about $200 bucks. |
08-12-2013, 09:06 AM | #3403 | |
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Yes you can cycle through them all. Pick whichever you want to watch.
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08-12-2013, 11:38 AM | #3404 | |
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Yes you can cycle through them all. Pick whichever you want to watch.
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08-12-2013, 12:27 PM | #3405 | |
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where is the air intake temp sensor located on the s13 redtop? |
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08-12-2013, 01:08 PM | #3406 |
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That sensor on your cold pipe, should be your AIT sensor. That's where mine is and that's the same connector for it.
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08-12-2013, 10:29 PM | #3407 |
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ah shit maybe i should have mounted the nozzle before that sensor? damn i feel like i fucked up now. it would be making way more power if the ecu actually was reading the colder air temps
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08-13-2013, 08:52 AM | #3408 |
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Yea you certainly want the AIT sensor after the nozzle for sure.
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08-13-2013, 10:09 AM | #3409 |
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finally got all my stuff back together. it's basically a semi-mimicry of Cody's infamous setup.
built SR (rods, pistons, HG, light head porting) 2871r (.64) BC springs/retainers JWT S3HL cams Nismo 740cc's N62 Freddy intake mani stock TB GKTech eccentric S14 throttle pulley stock exhaust mani RS Enthalpy tune it cranked right up on the first try. i'll hopefully be able to get it on a dyno sooner or later. oh btw, i had a warm start issue where it would always try to cold start, no matter the actual coolant temps. seemed like an obvious CTS problem. replaced the CTS, same issue. traced back through the harness as best i could, nothing looked amiss, same issue still. ended up being the leads in the harness's CTS plug not getting enough contact on the CTS prongs to give the ECU a proper signal. a bit of bending with a tiny flathead, and it works fine now. just FYI in case anyone else runs into this issue. Occam's Razor.
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08-13-2013, 10:28 AM | #3410 |
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To be honest it could use a re-weld anyways haha. Put it half way between the nozzle and the TB. Don't put it in the manifold.
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08-17-2013, 07:46 PM | #3411 |
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I have a quick question. When should i be expecting to see full boos with gt2871r .64a/r with the 3" inlet. Im hitting 17psi at about 4k maybe even a little higher. I have stock motor incliding stock HG. 740cc tomei inj., z32 MAF, and an rs enthalpy tune. Will cams help me see full boost much sooner? Pulls hard but was hoping for more response.
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08-17-2013, 07:58 PM | #3412 | |
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You need a laptop for this right? Or does it work with a tablet or device? Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk 4 |
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08-17-2013, 08:07 PM | #3414 | |
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Sent from a Highly Tuned SIII using Tapatalk HD
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08-17-2013, 08:54 PM | #3416 | |
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You should be getting 17psi by 3500 easily.
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08-18-2013, 08:59 AM | #3419 | |
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Also consider 'time into boost' as well...as in a car that spools up before XXXX rpm versus a car that spools up a second faster to XXXX rpm. I've been in cars that people deem responsive as it spools in rpm quick, but doesn't run into power that well...and that's as un-fun as a bigger turbo.
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08-18-2013, 09:31 AM | #3420 |
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Yea I'm using a internal gate. Plan to set up an external eventually. Im also using a hallman manual boost controller. I'm sure an EBC would help. Cams are stock as well and this is my first tune from RSE tune.
The car pulls really hard, no complaints there. I just read a lot of people were hitting full boost sooner which is why I posted to get some insight as to what I should upgrade to see full boost a little sooner and if 4k was normal on a completely stock internal motor. Thank you for your reply cody. Oh and I see you have in you signature something about external gated manifolds. Is that a stocky with an external? |
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