regnaleb

Okay folks just wondering if anyone can raise any flags for the solution to my problem

-My fuel pump doesnt turn on when the key is on the "ON" position

-I start my car by connecting the two closest prongs on the egi relay which turns on the pump

Now is it okay for me to extend those two prongs/wires all the way to the drivers seat and throwing a switch at the end to connect the two wires which turns on the pump? this will also act as a kill switch for the pump. Is there anything wrong with this? im not a wiring expert at all... thanks guys/gals

Gingersmurf

If you plan on racing your car most series will demand that you have a fuel pump kill switch linked to your master power kill switch. This way if you roll your car or whatever, when the switch is flipped off, the pump wont keep pouring fuel all over the place. Much safer this way than having two switches

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regnaleb

i dont plan on racing it, just driving. Is this a safe solution?

Gingersmurf

Maybe wait for others to chime in too, but i personally feel having them linked together is a good idea. Then you cant forget to turn it off if you roll up to timmies and grab a coffee

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derass

No, this is a bad idea. You should fix the cause of the problem. This solution will hack up the existing wiring and leave you with a fire hazard. You say you are not a wiring expert, perhaps you should have a technician or at least someone who knows what they're doing fix the problem.

regnaleb

why is it a bad idea exactly? i mean if the pump thing is an ecu problem then let it have it. Ill just turn it on myself rather than have all the middle stuff like the ecu grounding the relay to work bs

Gingersmurf

I thought fixing the problem was implied. Some cars with stripped interiors or motor swaps will have a switch panel, i figured this was the same sort of question.

OP, if you fuel pump wiring is all fucky, and this is a make it work sort of fix, then it is a bad idea. If this is for a car with a switch panel and you're wondering how to tie in your pump into the switch panel then id tie it to the ignition with a dedicated fuse.

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TougeSR20Kid

Well this and I was thinking that if anyone else ever worked on the car or you sold it, it would just create a headache for someone who doesn't know the lame, ghetto fab wiring job and what goes to what. I'm still having to go through and clean up the wiring "fixes" of the previous owner on my car. Just learn something, take the time, and fix it right

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Namaste mother f**ker

cotbu

First check continuity on the trigger wire, it should make it to the ecu and not ground on chassis. If it just a broken wire or pin or faulty relay fix it, or replace the ecu.

You could bandaid fix it like you want, but that's for another thread not in the tech section.
You could just wire it to the ign 12v and not use a switch, but eh!

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LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

granlooe

well,Then you cant forget to turn it off if you roll up to timmies and grab a coffee

Croustibat

I fail to see that as a requirement ... if you got a master switch you dont need a SECOND switch ... it cuts everything off and puts the alternator to the ground...

regnaleb

Guys i really cant find the reason as to why my pump doesnt prime when on the "ON" key position. checked the grounds/fuses and i popped in like 4 of the same relays in and still no worky. One thing to point out is when i connect the "two closest prongs" the pump primes and stays on...

I really need to get this car to be drivable soon. is there any other way for me to safely rewire this temporarily so everything "works"??

Croustibat

Your key does not command the fuel pump relay, the ECU does, by grounding the relay command side (greenish, striped wire if memory serves). So follow that cable from the relay to the ECU and check it is not cut, if it is not open your ECU and try to find a possible open circuit. That is the safe way.

regnaleb

Does anyone know where the ecu ground wire leaves the chassis harness into the engine harness? maybe i can check that connection.

Mitsubayati

First of all, seeing how little you know about electrical, I would take your car to a shop and have them diagnose the issue. Second of all, you never band aid electrical by jumping power as that was not the original intent from the manufacturer.

Those 2 prongs are part of the relay. Every relay will always have constant power from the battery going in. It needs a signal to switch it so that power can go out to whatever the relay powers. In this case, by jumping those two, you are bypassing the relay's function and giving direct power to the fuel pump. This is no longer a fused link which can cause wire melting or even fire, so you should not do that.

Adding a switch is even worse. Switches are not meant to hold high amperage, which is why the relay was used. If you switch that jumper wire, it may work a few times but will burn out and fail from the high amperage of the circuit, so another bad idea. The reason why you see guys make switch panels is because each switch works with a relay. I'm not going to go into how a relay works because I doubt you care, but what it sounds like is the signal wire leading to the relay from the column is not continuous somewhere or the ground wire leading from the relay is not grounded properly. Take it to a mechanic and have them fix it properly.

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Gingersmurf

Sorry i guess that was a bad explanation. I meant that the Master kill should also command the fuel pump and act as its own "off" switch. That way when the kill if pressed, the car wont continue to pump fuel everywhere. What you said is what i meant lol

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regnaleb

Youre right, i should be taking electrical problems a lot more seriously its just that ive had so many problems with this car that i have already fixed and this problem being one of the last ones im kind of just at the end of my rope now.

With that being said ive been looking at the problem today and still come to no conlusion. My egi relay works perfectly but my egi pump relay still just doesnt switch...

Does anyone know if the type x engine harness's should be wired differently when mating with the chassis harness? ie. the brown plug by the battery? Right now everything is colour to colour.