sykikchimp

This is a pretty sweet deal on a really nice jack.. just figured I would let you guys know..

Harbor Freight Alum. Race jack

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CoasTek240

uhh.. that link doesnt work, or atleast it wasnt working on my comp, but i found a really nice jack @ sears.. it's a michellin jack, heavy duty, raises all the way in three lifts, but you can adjust it and it has a magnetic tray. they were running a promotion on them and i got it for liek $79 it was a great buy.. only thing is it's a bit heavy

sykikchimp

thats the whole point of the aluminum race jack.. only 37 lbs..

Anyone who tracks their car, and changes tires at the track, needs one of these.

link works for me..

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legendarysnail

I got a nice 2-ton jack like and and two 2-ton jackstands for $35 at Pep-Boys...jack weighs about 45lbs and raises all the way up in like 10 pumps. It also has the "super duper fast-acting zinging haft-turn quick release!"

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Man run in front of car, man get tired. Man run behind car, man get exhausted.

*** 1993 240sx SE Coupe ***
> Mercedes-Benz ML320 sidemarkers
> Sleepyeye switch
> Front strut bar
> Cone intake
> Gutted trunk
> Headlight conv
> Mufflerless
> Hella foglights

sykikchimp

I'm sorry, but there is no comparison b/w your $35 pep boys jack, and this jack. Comparable jacks to this one would cost $500 easy.

Ball bearing wheels, 3.5" saddle height with rubber saddle. Full length handle, full height in 6 pumps.. Can change the tires on one side with 2 pumps.

ehh.. I shouldv'e known you guys wouldn't fully appreciate the sweetness that is this jack at that price.

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AKADriver

That aluminum jack does in fact kick ***.

It doesn't compare to a REAL REAL race jack, but for the occasional hobbyist it kicks ***. SO light...

I hear they do wear out somewhat quickly, but unlike the $35 jacks they're rebuildable (and you'd actually want to rebuild it).

Dousan_PG

bah they aernt low enough
i cant get that jakc (that one u posted specifically) under my rear diff
have to use the 2 jack technique
if it was LOOOW i'd go for it
but the weight savings is a plus
it is quite nice. i have used it before.

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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sph33r

I appreciate the price, but the horror stories scare me. There are tales of the Harbor Freight jack breaking or bending. Now, I've looked at one at my local HF and I couldn't see how it would bend so I'm kind of tempted. The store near me had stacks of them and it is definately a sweet jack. It's pretty low too.

It's been tested against a few other jacks and did ok I guess.

http://www.vorshlag.com/tech_jacks1.html

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ka24e.com

240 2NR

The horror stories I've heard about this and similar aluminum jacks is the pad breaking due to an uneven load. When centered they seem to function fine, but if badly offset it seems that the aluminum fatigues easy and just shears off a corner. I've not seen anything about them failing to work and replacing just the pad should be easy enough.

It's a pretty low jack at under ~3" of clearance, though I would probably still have to roll my front tires up onto some 2x6's for that extra 1 5/8" of clearance.

This currently my debate between a steel American made jack (hard to find and lately have been in the worst colors, like powder blue) with a low seat height, that would probably last the rest of my life, or this aluminum jack. Both are roughly the same price, at or just under $200 though there's about 60lbs between them. For the weekend hobby and track weekend stuff I do I'm leaning toward the race jack and if the need ever arises to get the heavy duty steel one when I'm working on cars almost everyday.

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Steve
93 240sx FB currently very clean and for sale

sykikchimp

I don't really compare the race jack to a good shop jack.

One of these days I want to get this jack for the shop, and I'll use the HF jack strictly for track days.



3.1" saddle, and 29" lifting height

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240 2NR

Wow, I saw that AC hydraulics jack in an ad for a porsche parts supplier for like $600. It sounded like a badass jack but not for the price, If I could get it for just over $200 (provided shipping doesn't rape you) I'm sold. Better quility, lower rise (that stays low for 16" then rises, sweet!!!), and still a reasonable weight at 68lbs.

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Steve
93 240sx FB currently very clean and for sale

240racer

HBF has free shipping

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Adam
'89 coupe KA24DE+T
14.1 @ 104 MPH

'88 Celica All-Trac turbo
stock, but no more ecu codes!!

Flybert

If you're really cheap like me, you can go get a 2 ton jack and 2 jackstands for $20 dollars from Kragen. They don't go that high but it's worth it.

Dousan_PG

did you NOT read what was said above?
those jacks are JUNK.



more proof 240sx drivers are CHEAP

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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AKADriver

My roommate has one of those... "pro-lift" or whatever.

When a steel jack weighs less than a decent aluminum jack... I worry! You can really feel the sweatshop manufacturing quality.

sykikchimp

Lol, I own a "pro-lift" pep-boys jack too. total POS... you have to pump it 25 times to get the car up. Since I got my HF jack, I don't even have to use the wood planks to get the jack under my car anymore. I love it. It comes with this check valve too. Simply loosen the handle, and pump a few times. WAALAA, jack is bled.

A good jack is a beautiful thing. Next on my list is an Impact Wrench.

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240 2NR

I picked up a pro lift as well (bundled with jack stands for a whopping 20 bucks) when I thought I was going to be getting an LSD. It seemed like a good investment for dropping and lifting the diffs. I have yet to actually use it on my car, I'd rather use the scissors jack. The pad is way too small to be effective. Those big 4" pads on real dolley jacks are great becuase they cradle the diff or are wide enough to lift the front cross member, while low enough to get under there. It seems to work well for my dad when changing tires since Honda's have a different pick up on the frame rails, so I just gave it to him.

I'm pretty sold on that blue jack both of us pictured above. For a little more than the "racing jack" it should far out live it and withstand a lot more abuse. That's my next garage buy after a bench vice.

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Steve
93 240sx FB currently very clean and for sale

Dousan_PG

sissor jack? those are SOO DANGEROUS imho.
i never use one..refuse they are junk. oem crap
the pep boys jack (prolift) for the diff...that's stupid. plain and simple. there no way unless you are SUPER careful and ballsy to balance a diff on it.

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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240 2NR

Only to lift the car, I use jackstands when I'm under it.

The prolift would have just been used to raise and lower the diff and I would have had an extra pair of hands. It shouldn't have been that bad ~80lbs, the car would have been up on stands and ramps anyway.

Like I said, not the best setup, and the reason why a real shop jack is next on my list.

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Steve
93 240sx FB currently very clean and for sale

TBreu007

I have the HF aluminum jack, and I have used the ultra-slick $600+ racing jacks, and my HF jack is just as good. It doesn't look as polished, but it works just as well.
I don't trust ANY jack while I'm under the car...jackstands only.
Trust me, the other steel jacks that some of you are talking about don't hold a candle to this jack. The car is off the ground and I'm swapping tires in three pumps. Most regular shop jacks take about 10+ pumps. If your car is too low for this jack to get under, your car is wayyyy too low and you musy not have ANY suspension.

Dousan_PG

ahh little is your knowledge for this...
i have coilovers
double height adjustable so my shock travel is NOT compromised/changed by my car's ride height.

btw: myself, jdmrice, jspec, and many of our friends can not get the HF jack under the car w/o the 2 jack technique or boards.

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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TBreu007

ahh little is your knowledge for this...
Who are you, Yoda?

Anyway, I don't care if you have $4000 a corner Penskie coilovers, if your car is that low, you won't have much if any suspension travel. No matter what kind of adjustments you have, there is only so much space in the fender well for a wheel to travel within its suspension range. ANY time you lower a car, you lessen the amount of room in the fender well.
If your car is so low, what have you done to correct bump steer? I bet nothing. Bump steer correction is as important as lowering a car to get it to handle properly...but I guess you're more into how it looks, huh?

Dousan_PG

tie rod endlinks fix my bumpsteer. a-arms coming soon for rear soon enough.
i have Tein coilover for now
fender well? coilovers are STIFF travel is minimal to NONE depending on my damper setting. i can put the tire in up against fender and i wont hit it! no fender lining in front. rolled fenders this month

bumpsteer is a-ok. very minimal. not bad at all.
mostly because of my wheel useage do i get more bumpsteer depending which wheel i use at the time.

looks? hahaha..i am at the track 2-3 times a month. stfu before you try and school people! hahahaha..


anything else ?

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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TBreu007

Travel is minimal to none...yea, you really sound like you know what you are doing...cars don't need suspension travel, R I G H T!

How do wheels influence bump steer? Bump steer is a toe change as the suspension goes through its range. Tires would have nothing to do with that. But if you don't have any suspension travel, you won't have bump steer issues. All these pro race teams (some of which I have worked with) should just take away suspension like you did to cure bump steer...damn, you solved the problem.

If you're at the track 2-3 times a month, you're there looking like a fool bouncing around with no suspension.

Take this information from someone who actually races competitively, and not as some punk kid who thinks he's the next Dori.

Dousan_PG

next dori? i do drift, for about a year now
i must be looking like a bouncing fool next to the national auto x champs who have a very stiff suspension as well hahahaha..
i never said tires, i said WHEELS the round objects tires go on. put a low offset wheel on a car and feel the differences.
so you say take away suspension. oh yea, tie rod endlinks are useless. dont need those. oh sh!t how are the wheels going to turn now?! dont need a-arms too..oh crap how is the rear spindle going tos tay on? take away suspension, yeah it will magically float there, merlin.

my friend works for team lexus. what's your point about you working for one...or claiming too?

as i said, DOUBLE HEIGHT ADJUSTBALBE COILOVERS. my shock stroke is NOT affected by lowering my car. are you stupid? or just uneducated about coilovers?

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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TBreu007

That's the point...they have suspension...you claim to have no travel.
Sorry...semantics I typed tires, I meant wheels. WHEELS, no matter what offset won't cure bump steer problems.

What exactly do you mean by tie rod end links? Are they adjustable vertically and horizontally? Here in the racing world on planet Earth we call those spherical tie rods used with bump steer spacers on the a-arms.

You thinking your suspension travel is not changed in any way by lowering the car is just ignorant. Think about it for a second. Better yet, play along. Make your hand into a fist (this is your wheel). Take your other hand like a "C" (this is your fender) and place it over your fist. Start at a certain height with them not touching (this is stock ride height) now lower the hand that is shaped like a "C". Does your fist (wheel) still have the same room to move around? NO! So in effect, by lowering the car, you have taken away suspension travel. You could have 4' of stroke left on your strut, but if there is no where for the tire to go in the fender well, you're screwed.

If I have to educate you any more, you'll get my bill in the mail.

Dousan_PG

again i have to explain this
double height adjustable coilovers


from JIC USA website:
look, same style as mine, but this pic is better then the tein so
now see how the SHOCK perch is adjutable. the spring perch wont change so you are not compressing the shock when its off teh car. you lower and raise the car via shock height, which wont change shock stroke
need more explanation?

yeah vertical and horizontally adjustable endlinks.
"spherical tie rods"
i said tie rod ends. if i need to explain it more clearly for you, hey whatever works. but yeah thats it.

so you say, bumpsteer wont change if i go from a +40 to a -10 offset wheel huh?

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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TBreu007

Dude, I know very well what double height adjustable coilovers are. I've installed both the JIC's and Teins. I'm just saying, don't think because Tein or JIC says you can go as low as you want without losing travel, it means you can. I didn't even touch on CG and roll center crazyness that happens when you go too low. I started out thinking lower is better, but after raising my last car only 1" I dropped 2 full seconds at the Homestead track. My GC, roll centers and bump steer was all out of wack; raising the car helped, but didn't look as cool.

Bumpsteer really won't change as you go wider (lower offset) with wheels. It is a ratio of the tie rod to the swing arm...that is why you use bump steer spacers and try to get the tie rod back in line with the suspension travel. You may be thinking of how the wheel "tracks" across uneven pavement, or how the car pulls as it goes over a bump. A lower offset wheel will hide some of this bumpsteer by making the car more stable, but the cornering bumpsteer problems will still be there, and you won't be gatting the most out of your front tires without proper correction.

Gotta go...off to the kart track to practice.

Dousan_PG

so we agree on the shock travel part. cool
yeah i can see that with ground control and my setup as well, dependign if everything else (suspension peices) are in tune w/ the car's height.

i have made sure my car's handling is on par w/ my setup. i have replace all but 3 arms on my car's suspension (replaced w/ spherical ends). i got flca, 1 rear part (front) and a-arm left to replace. i have made sure the car handles very well, and it does, and corrected as much of the handling as possible.

some punk kid i am huh?

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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Dousan_PG

you said:


i NEVER lost shock/strut stroke travel (like you did w/ the GC) w/ the double height adjustable setup.

but wait, you said you already knew what that mean, why tell me your fist explanation then? shock travel NEVER changed. suspension travel did, but i already told you i corrected any problem w/ interference w/ my car, as well as fender clearance. also the rest of the suspension was set up as well to deal w/ the height change.

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Aaron
Pink GodziRa
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