R3cK

i need positive caster for more auto turn?
is there any "starter setup" to recommend besides personal preferences?

Croustibat

for a grip S13, with a sorted chassis ( no bushes / ball joint binding, bump steer & toe steer corrected, no roll center 10m underground ), i usually advise this:

-2 to -4° camber front depending on tyres
-2° camber rear (less negative camber rear should be better but you will struggle to achieve no toe steer and no binding if you do. On S14 subframe you can get away with -1.5°)
7° to 8° caster
0 to 5mm total opening front
0 opening rear

this will vary depending on the person you ask of course, but i consider it a good starting point.

NISR20MO

I just ordered a bunch of their new stuff for my S14. The pricing is awesome right now with the AUS currency exchange rates, I just hope the delay isn't too crazy. I ordered their new super lock FLCA's +30-65mm (backordered), Upper Strut Mounts, RLCA's, and Rear Knuckles (backordered). I have been watching this thread hoping someone has them already, as I would love to know what kind of wheel sizes will play nice. I will be running the above with GeoMaster 2's upfront and all my upper SPL arms out back, curious to see peoples setups.

dazed

All good lol. Will do.

For real.. You seem to be getting on peoples case in this thread over trivial things. This thread is about modifying your suspension. Which I'm discussing. I will post where I please, thank you.

scottie

Same as you except I am running GKTechs V2 Front Knuckle. GKTech said parts were being air freighted and shipped out next week.

epik1

hey guys, after my car sitting for a few years, I finally got an opportunity to use a shop space to put everything back together!

Question:
I have the GK Tech Offset steering rack extenders and I will be running S14 tein inners/outers (S13 chassis) . I'm concerned about whether I should run the GK Tech offset steering rack extenders. I've heard from people they either break or they break my rack. Will also being pairing this with S14 FLCA not extended, I don't have time to go that far yet.

derass

I used offset rack spacers on my car for about 20 events and didn't have any major problems. One did come loose within the first few events, but that was my fault for not using thread locker. But you're right, I have also seen, heard and know of people who had problems like a broken housing or ripping the threads out.

Do you have knuckles? If you don't, the spacers are probably unnecessary. They offer the same increase in rack travel as the spacers included with your Tien's, which isn't enough of an angle increase to require over-center prevention / tie rod relocation.

If you plan on using them, I think your tie rod combination will be too long. I had the ERA-1 spacers, they added 42mm per side but I had extended LCAs to match.

PoorMans180SX

I've been running offset rack spacers on my car for over a year now, daily driving and one track day.

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LuckyX2

Well I bought front and rear LCAs, front and rear knuckles and tie rod ends from GKTech.

Rears should be here in time for me to give feedback before the end of the season but the front stuff is all backordered.

Also will be selling my Geomaster 2 knuckles assuming I prefer the GKtechs if anyone is interested when that time comes.

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tauntdevil

Edit: Figured it out.

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ViorelP

Sorry if i am off-topic, but i couldn't figure it out.
What's wrong and why do i have such a positive camber on full-lock? What should i modify?
I have steering rack spacers for angle and for alignment: -3 camber, 0 toe, 7 caster
I lose control on full lock. Thank you

Attached Images

12052660_900045913376167_8127808109263002037_o.jpg (254.3 KB, 49 views)

NISR20MO

7* caster is pretty high considering your camber settings, if you had less camber the caster may be OK. You would be better off with more camber and less caster, like almost flip the values but keep a lil' more caster than 3*...

Flipping the values would allow the caster to pull camber out of your lead wheel at higher steering angles giving you a flatter contact patch.

epik1

No, I am running stock S13 knuckles, I don't want to upgrade knuckles yet, I want more seat time first, so the less things break and the more seat time I get is the goal.

gobackwards

What? 7 isn't high, that should be fine.

Try a little more negative camber (like 4-5) to compensate for the camber gain, if you don't like how it feels at lock.

ViorelP

Ok. I will try with -4.5 camber and see how it goes. Thanks

Motary

Well mine works:



I think there is some optimisation to do with more negative camber and less anti-ackermann

Tyre wear is alright too:



I had a jig made recently for my new rear suspension's upper arm so I can start assembling that lot soon and get the geometry sorted with a hefty 10 kg weight saving

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Croustibat

He is right, 7 is high for a drift car.
4 to 5° caster with -2 to -2.5° camber will do the trick far better than adding camber to compensate for too much caster.

LuckyX2

Caster gives you more negative camber when you turn, doesn't it? So reducing caster would only make his problem worse.

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PoorMans180SX

If you're turning normally. When you're countersteering, it's opposite.

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derass

This should be pretty good. When I first installed my knuckles and extended LCAs, I was at -9* camber. Everything seemed fine, the leading tire even had some negative camber at full lock. However, straight line braking ability was severely reduced due to the smaller contact patch. I adjusted the camber as much as I could positive and ended up around -5* camber. That really worked well for me. The tires didn't lock up while braking as easily and still kept a flat contact patch at full lock.

I had stock caster the entire time (5-6*). I was considering reducing that number to increase the contact patch of the trailing tire, but I never got around to it. I always wondered how (the reduced) self-steering would be effected by reducing caster. Moreso, how I would like that as a driver. I also wondered how low, non-adjustable ackerman knuckles would behave on my particular home track with an increased trailing contact patch. Whether by increasing that patch the trailing tire would either scrub more or increase front traction.

It really does take a lot of experimentation to find the right setup.

Slenis

Just thought i´d show u guys a kit thats now beeing sold in sweden.

Any thoughts?
Pricing is 750euro for the kit..





[img=http://forumbilder.se/ECRF8/10655446-716822861719499-2355775392554329827-o.jpg]

TheRealSy90

I purchased the GKTech budget offset strut tops, which require trimming the tower a bit to clear the top pillow ball of the coilover. So essentially I have one chance to pick where I want to locate the strut top. My concern is if somehow I pull out too much caster by moving the strut top forward. I do like a car that self steers when I transition.


It it better to run them most forward, which would retain negative camber. Or clock them to where it pulls out both the camber, and reduces caster, just to a lesser amount. Seems that both directions have almost the same contact patch at full lock, the "less caster" option having slightly more.


I'm also running their 40mm roll center knuckles, and 1" extended s13 lca's, with the inside bushing replaced with a heim joint for caster adjustment via voodoo13 tension arm.

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PoorMans180SX

Depends on how much static camber you're running I guess. Right now I'm running -7.5* up front, and the car handles pretty awesome. I know it would handle better if I could get it to around 5* though. I'd gladly trade some max-lock grip for turn-in grip, I think turn-in is one of the most important aspects of car handling in general, whether you're drifting or road racing.

On an unrelated note:

"The S13 has too much anti-squat"

8.47 @ 165

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rbs14kouki

Forgot to say ... gtr diff , axles and hub , S13 subframe , beat-up hks drag coilovers , camber arm and the rest is stock lollll

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Built thread sr20vet s14
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535574

Praxis

Can anyone explain this.... not making sense to me. If instant centre is the intersection of lines drawn through upper and lower chassis side arm mounts.... and since they are fixed to the subframe... how can instant dentre, and therefore anti squat move with ride height?

Im trying to picture it, but if you lower the car an inch, both control arm mounts move down the same, and so does your centre of gravity (well close enough, I font think half an inch change at tge front will be noticable) So everything stays relatively the same.? Yes? No?

Praxis

Cant possibly have more than 100% anti squat.. Mine runs 8.9, and sqauts at least an inch, maybe 1.5, and thats with the biggest anti roll bar I could find.

However, the steep lower arm, puts the resultant vector in an od direction it looks to me,

Im having problems with mine, as sometimes it pushes right, very hard on launch, but other times it goes straight, and vuts 1.34 60 foots. Gaven solid mounted the subframe yet, so we will see.

Praxis

Mine has gone 8.9s, and does squat about 1.5".

However, its erratic. Sometime goes straight, sometimes goes hard left, sometimes spins on the hit etc.

Gonna try solid mounting the subframe first, I guess.

Praxis

Mine has gone 8.9s, and does squat about 1.5".

However, its erratic. Sometime goes straight, sometimes goes hard left, sometimes spins on the hit etc.

Gonna try solid mounting the subframe first, I guess.

Motary

With multilink suspension the imaginary intersection point location changes throughout suspension travel. You can also change antisquat by changing upright pickup points (Wisefab, GKTech have employed this)

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LuckyX2

On GKTech's site, it says the ideal length for the traction arm is 199mm when using their rear knuckles/uprights on an S14 subframe.

Is that measured from the red or blue lines pictured below?


I'm assuming red, because blue could vary depending on the manufacturer of the arm. But I want to confirm.

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