zfortune

So I got my alignment done at pepboys today. They told me I should get these parts: front adjustable caster arm 67720, rear toe limit 67740, rear camber kit 67765, and sway bar end links are cracked. Those part numbers lead to SPC parts. I was wondering do I really need them though besides the end links of course..
My s13 is all stock besides new tein h-tech springs, new 16x8 +20 wheels with 225/50/16 tires and new oem outer tie ends.

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Primo's Silvia

No you dont have to purchase those aftermarket arms, but if ud like your tires to wear out evenly then its a must u can always buy lower end parts if you dont abuse your car

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Croustibat

Something is very wrong with these caster numbers and left SAI...

It would not surprise me if the car has S14 caster arms (which cause such a low caster).

Also you are missing 1° caster on both side and your left SAI also misses 1°.
Crashed the car, much ?


Point is, you lowered the car, so the suspension does not work properly anymore. You need to replace cracked bushing, but mostly you need adjustable arms to get the static alignment correct.
You also need adjustable front tie rod end rear traction arm to get rid of bump steer and toe steer.

Or you could just block your hydraulics closed once you replaced worn parts and get adjustable rear camber arms,, get a static alignment done and call it a day. It won't handle, will break your back, but it will feel like it is sticking to the road.

Or you could change the worn parts and put it back to standard height, and it will handle correctly. Your choice (we are on zilvia, i think i already know the road you are going ... but hey, i tried)

zfortune

I bought this car and I have been working on it so I don't know what the other owner did to it besides not keeping it up right.. As in the reason I bought tein h-tech springs is because the old springs where all different sizes... But anyways I am planning on driving this car daily, auto-x and some spirited driving, no drifting at all not into it... But you guys have any recommendation on parts?

zfortune

Well I guess if I want to fix it right, got to pay out. So I am thinking of just getting whiteline front end links and SPL tension rods. And for anyone thinking I fucked up my suspension is completely wrong. For one ALL springs where uneven which is why I have h-techs now. 2nd I have no idea what previous owner did to this car because it was beat to hell when I first got it, luckily for cheap as hell to. 3rd I have been doing tons of body work which was all covered in bondo and now I can move onto suspension. I noticed a lot of bushings are bad to so I'll most likely get bushings to. If I can get the front suspension straighten out I'll move onto the rear. It's not as bad as the front.

Croustibat

Thing is, as stock SAI is impossible to change. you needstruts (or coilovers) with camber settings at the knucle to change it ... or a bent knuckle.

Also please check the caster rods length. If they are not S14 length, it means your chassis / subframe are seriously bent, which means there is no point trying to fix it; it would be cheaper to locate another car.

zfortune

So if they're not s14 length that means the whole front could be bent? That's pretty bad but I'll check out in a few hours and let you know. What is the stock length for the tension rod? I searched and found someone said 8.25"? Do I measure from the center of the hole or just measure the whole tension rod.

zfortune

Okay roughly 14.5" on both sides. measured from the center of the bolt on the brace to the tip on the tension rod

Croustibat

s13 tension rods are 12.75" length from center of the bush to center of the nearest stud (quoted from nrr)

zfortune

measured it again in the same spot you said and it was roughly around 12.75"

TheRealSy90

How did they mess up the rear alignment that bad? I was able to have straight rear toe with all of the factory rear control arms just using the factory alignment bolts, and that was fully lowered on Fortune Auto coilovers.

Seems like they didn't really know what they were doing. Your rear camber and toe is all out of wack, i mean they couldn't even match it from one side to the other?

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zfortune

Yeah I was questioning the same thing when I first saw the paper. But I guess the guy couldn't do it or didn't bother trying to do more.

zfortune

Well it seems like it's pulling to the right pertty bad when you leave your hands off the wheel. The steering wheel doesn't shake at all though, through 0-75mph.

zfortune

Here is a couple pictures of tension rod braces and bushing on pass side. My front lca ball joints are pretty bad to.

zfortune

So far order new moog flca and b12 sentra ball joints for the rlca. Not sure what I want to do about the rest of the suspension yet. Maybe ES bushings for the rest?

Croustibat

Your front tension rod bushes are totally shot, the alignment guy should have seen that and not do anything.

Also, that much rust ? You could buy a nismo power brace to replace your tension rod brackets, it is one of the few braces that actually do something. I fear this chassis i a whole rust bucket though ... before spending anymore cash in in it, check wheel wells, subframe and sills for rust damage. The more pics you show, the more i think there is not much to do with this one (except keeping it for parts)

zfortune

Sorry you're completely wrong. There is not rust anywhere besides the braces. As you can see the braces had some welding done to it and they just left it like that so rust easily built up on it. I have done body work all around this car and it's clean. I have removed so much bondo and pulled so many dents its not even funny. Before I bought I checked everywhere for rust but it's clean. I am going to take it to a frame shop today or tomorrow and have them check if it's tweaked or not.
Visually looking at the frame it doesn't look tweaked but a computerized rack will have the best results of telling me if it's tweaked or not.

soundboy

That front tension bushings are totally gone. How that car attempted to align is amazing.

See to sort out your bushings and then try again.
The Super pro master kit is a good start

Croustibat

You really dont put a PU bush there, really. Either replace the bushes with oem ones or go ball joint. The FLCA bush may need a change too. Considering the price of an alignment, it would be better to change both tension anf FLCA bushings at the same time. Same advice as above, OEM rubber or ball joint, no PU there, PU does not have the required compliance.

TheRealSy90

I've got a pair of S13 tension rods with EnergySuspension bushings installed, i'll ship them to you for $40 plus shipping cost to help you out.

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zfortune

Well a few weeks ago I got my car scanned for any frame damage and it checked out good. Then I took a chance on the ISIS pro arms, waited a week and half to get them. I installed them the day I got them and got an alignment the very next day. The alignment specs are way better, I'll get a picture later on today, and The guy that did my alignment said my steering rack haves a little bit of play and my steering wheel is more towards the left than the center.. So far the ISIS pro arms holding up really well and the car feels good. BUT my my car still wants to go right all the time and doesn't want to recenter itself. I see no leaks around my steering rack or anything to. Maybe I might have blown the internal seals when I replaced the old leaking pressure line with a ISIS pressure line?

Here is new alignment specs. included angle and SAI got worse especially for right side...

Croustibat

Frame damage has no influence on SAI. Knuckles and strut connection to the knuckle do, so unless you did unbolt these 2, there is absolutely no reason for these angles to change, except the measurement is off.

Also ISIS is a sinonym of crap fleabay stuff. Stop buying cheap, you will only end up buying twice ...

If you have aftermarket coilovers, chances are your ARBs are preloaded. Either set the height of the car so it is not preloaded when you are inside, or better: use adjustable droplinks and have the car corner weighted.