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Old 10-10-2013, 07:11 PM   #5881
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Old vs. new.



Together:

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Old 10-11-2013, 02:24 AM   #5882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Old vs. new.



Together:

Put t on the car and then take the photos.. LOL
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Old 10-11-2013, 01:33 PM   #5883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I have a vision here but I'm not sure if what I've thought up will work. Perhaps you guys can point me in the right direction.

I'm building a car with a tube frame front and I want to use S-chassis suspension because of the availability of parts. However,
I also really want a double wishbone set up in front, so here is what I've come up with:

I'll use an s-chassis subframe, rack, and LCAs, and then machine a metal puck which will be welded into a short cut off part of
the strut, holding a ball joint and attaching to the upper control arm which I'll fabricate. Sort of like the image below:

The mca s13 in Australia is using a double wishbone front suspension using 240sx knuckles
Nerd's Eye View: The MCA Suspensions "Hammerhead" Silvia S13
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:46 PM   #5884
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Ride Height:



Control arm angle:



EDIT: Old setup when the car was higher and picture is slightly angled.

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Old 10-11-2013, 07:02 PM   #5885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Ride Height:



Control arm angle:
epic stuff right there
what about the rear?
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:16 PM   #5886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dudermagee View Post
epic stuff right there
what about the rear?
Rear is basically stock with subframe risers unfortunately . It'll be a while until I can afford either the Wisefab rear or the new TDP kit that's in development.

I should probably include this. Take in line with the strut tower, no cheater ahead of the car shots . This is with the strut inside the PCD of the strut tower and around -4.7* of camber on each side.

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Old 10-13-2013, 11:16 AM   #5887
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Are you guys using lock stops on extended LCAs and big angle knuckles?
how bad is not use them? im not sure if my tie rod is close enough to hit the LCA
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:30 AM   #5888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post


Remove the lock stop and notch the control arm. You'll need to move the inner tie rod forward too. Easiest way is to buy offset rack spacers. But the best way is to modify the subframe so the rack sits further forward.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:57 PM   #5889
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lul ^ dat bumpsteer and strength
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:56 PM   #5890
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Zak Pole new r33 set-up

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Old 10-17-2013, 09:51 PM   #5891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerbike View Post
Remove the lock stop and notch the control arm. You'll need to move the inner tie rod forward too. Easiest way is to buy offset rack spacers. But the best way is to modify the subframe so the rack sits further forward.
The steering rack is already forwarded by 25mm.
about notching the LCA, i'm afraid that the notched LCA wouldn't be strong enough
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:55 AM   #5892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefro526 View Post
Please excuse me if this has already been discussed, but anyone know anything about these:



Apparently, they're made by Manatee Racing, and don't seem to be all 'that' common. (although, there was a set for sale on YAJ recently)

The Front and Rear LCA's are somewhat standard and/or straight forward, but the Rear Upper Control arm (bottom right) seems to be really different. I've been trying to wrap my head around what exactly it is, or does, and the only explanation I can come up with is that it's a one piece version of our 'upper A-arm' - one piece being that it combines the Traction Rod and RUCA. (IIRC, Dentsport's S13 has a similar upper arm)

What's the benefit to this, if any?
I wonder what's the cost association?
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:24 AM   #5893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GKTECH View Post
time for some track testing. The current Australian dollar is good for you guys. The intro price is going to be $199 AUD including our sales tax which is $181AUD excluding our tax = $162USD + delivery.

40mm roll centre correction and a little over 60 degrees of bolt on steering lock.


I want to see a car with these!

Are they out yet?
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:05 AM   #5894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post

do you have a picture of the clearance between the wheel/tire and frame at full lock?
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:43 AM   #5895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer240 View Post
do you have a picture of the clearance between the wheel/tire and frame at full lock?
Here you are sir:



The inner rim is hitting the LCA in this pic, even though it doesn't look like it.



Also, here's a picture of my friend Kurtiss's car, he has the TDP kit with the struts relocated farther forward than mine. It pulls more angle this way.

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Old 10-22-2013, 02:49 AM   #5896
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^^^^thank you

I'm debating wether to get this kit, the price is what's bothering me.
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Old 10-22-2013, 10:18 AM   #5897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer240 View Post
^^^^thank you

I'm debating wether to get this kit, the price is what's bothering me.
Yeah, it is definitely expensive. I'll say again though, the adjust-ability is phenomenal. I can make this a wisefab low caster setup, and with a few minutes and an alignment turn it into a normal modified knuckle style setup. A few more minutes and it's set up with higher ackerman for a road course. The roll center correction also kills most everything else on the market.

Don't do it if you're like me and now struggling to get the car together because you bought an angle kit though, hah.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:56 PM   #5898
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PoorMans180sx, what did you do with the DW stuff?

If somebody has Geomasters laying around they'd lend me, I'd pay to borrow them. I want to CAD them up and make my own.
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:16 PM   #5899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiamiZ33 View Post
PoorMans180sx, what did you do with the DW stuff?

If somebody has Geomasters laying around they'd lend me, I'd pay to borrow them. I want to CAD them up and make my own.
I never had any Driftworks stuff, I had always wanted to buy it when it was the only drop knuckle kit on the market, but I never got a chance.
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:34 AM   #5900
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That is quite a lot of clearence, are you using overdenders to cover the wheels? My arm is about 25mm longer than stock and I have poke
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:03 AM   #5901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motary View Post
That is quite a lot of clearence, are you using overdenders to cover the wheels? My arm is about 25mm longer than stock and I have poke
Could be totally wrong here, but it looks like he's got 20/25mm Over fenders with a relatively narrow wheel, maybe an 17x8.75" (I think those wheels come in that size.)
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:29 AM   #5902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motary View Post
That is quite a lot of clearence, are you using overdenders to cover the wheels? My arm is about 25mm longer than stock and I have poke
These arms at their shortest are 35-40mm longer than an S13 arm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thefro526 View Post
Could be totally wrong here, but it looks like he's got 20/25mm Over fenders with a relatively narrow wheel, maybe an 17x8.75" (I think those wheels come in that size.)
I'm using "40mm" wide fenders (I don't have stock ones so I can't compare), and an 18x8.75+20 wheel with a 215/35/18 tire. The fenders are currently riding on the tire, and I might just have to get flares or a smaller tire to make it functional.

I am pulling -5* of camber in the front with the knuckle adjusted to the maximum positive camber at this ride height. This is because I have the strut inside the PCD of the tower, and the knuckle hits the lower part of the coilover.

The tire also scrubs at the top of the wheel well at lock (trailing wheel), I'm not sure what combo of hammering, cutting, or raising the car will make this functional yet. If it comes down to raising it, I don't want to raise it much, as my whole point in buying this kit was to make a low car function as best it can.

I'd really like to get some 17x8.25's for the front with a 215/40/17.

Not sure when this is going to be on the road for some actual testing, hopefully before the close of the year.
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:21 PM   #5903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
The inner rim is hitting the LCA in this pic, even though it doesn't look like it.


Wait, what?

So if you had lower offset wheels, it wouldn't hit the LCA?
And then you could dial in even more angle?

What clearancing have you done to the inside of the wheelwells?

Mini tubs?

Ground off and welded the seams?

Just straight cut shit out?
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:06 PM   #5904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black R View Post
Wait, what?

So if you had lower offset wheels, it wouldn't hit the LCA?
And then you could dial in even more angle?

What clearancing have you done to the inside of the wheelwells?

Mini tubs?

Ground off and welded the seams?

Just straight cut shit out?

The trailing wheel hits the top of the wheel well at full lock. This is the only clearance issue I have at this point. I may just cut the wheel wells out for clearance. The only clearance work I have done is hammer the seems in the well as you can see above, as well as the classic on top of the well.

I could dial in more angle two ways, reduce the caster, or get thinner wheels. Lower offset won't really work unless I get fender flares, the wheels are already touching the fenders. I want to get some 17x8.25 of these same wheels for the front, but they don't really make a shorter tire than the one I have on it, so I'll have to either raise it or cut the wells out/tub it.
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Old 10-26-2013, 02:43 AM   #5905
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i need those gktech knuckle attachments so bad!!!!!
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Old 10-26-2013, 02:44 AM   #5906
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Anyone else read about the gktech knuckles breaking from overcentering?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I527 using Tapatalk
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Old 10-26-2013, 03:44 AM   #5907
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Poorman, how is the clearence from brake line bracket at the chassis side? I had to move mine via one bolt hole
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:54 AM   #5908
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Quote:
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Anyone else read about the gktech knuckles breaking from overcentering?

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The thing I read the guy had moved the steering arm up and out of the slot it goes in. I'm not sure why you would do that...
And I guess they are discontinuing the "Extreme" steering arms, apparently a lot of people are having binding issues (aka set up the car wrong), and I'm sure GKtech wants to cover it's back.
GKtech put a press release on their facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

Quote:
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Poorman, how is the clearence from brake line bracket at the chassis side? I had to move mine via one bolt hole
Oh yeah. It rubbed the bracket pretty bad. I have stainless lines from the master to the caliper to install, I'm not sure how that'll turn out.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:35 PM   #5909
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I need extended ball joints for my flcas anyone know where to get some with about an inch if not more of roll center corroection
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:54 PM   #5910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OgSilviaSkywalker View Post
I need extended ball joints for my flcas anyone know where to get some with about an inch if not more of roll center corroection
Moonface makes ones with up to 15mm of correction I believe, you really can't go much past 20mm or it starts hitting your rotor. It also increases ackerman substantially.

Why do you need extended ball joints specifically? A much better solution is PSM's forged knuckle, or their Pro-grip knuckle if you're not into faster steering and low ackerman.
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