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Old 01-07-2010, 06:54 PM   #1
S13 curtis
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Thumbs up Journey to hit 430+whp with a T28...Lets find out.

OK guys whats up as you know ive been working with my 240 for a while now since i was 17. Im currently serving the US Army and im stationed in Korea, 31B Military Police, but my car car is being put togeather as we speak and i wanted to let you guys in on the progress i would like to get your input good or bad it dosent matter to me i take those and make things better.I wanted to be a little different and go a different route than most ppl and i will be the first on here to push the "Special GT25 EWG V44 turbine housing" to the limit. We will see what it take to break way over 400whp on a GT2871r, it to easy to go past 400 with a GT30r. enough talking lets get down to business,enjoy!!!

Mod list to make this happen:

Powerplant:SR20DET Red Top
-Stock Internals
-ARP Head Studs
-Apex 1.1mm metal Head Gasket
-Built head, BC springs and retainers,BC Valves.
-Tomei ProCam 270 duration
-Tomei RAS
-Cusco Motor Mounts
-Greddy oil catch tank
-NO A/C or P/S

Hotside:GT2871R .72
-Copper Exhaust manifold gasket
-Megan racing Exhaust manifold
-Megan racing Elbow
-Megan racing Down pipe and test pipe
-Apexi N1 Cat back exhaust
-Jegs 3' Eletric Cutout
-ATP Special T25 EWG .72 A/R Turbine housing
-Tial V44mm wastegate

ColdSide:GT3071R 4'inch inlet T04E Compressor housing (56 trim GT2871r's can only use this as a upgrade) flows 50lbs a min.
-Ebay 32X12X3 FMIC (works great BTW never gave me problems)
-2.5inch intercooler pipeing (debateing on going 3'inch)<-- needs your input.
-Greddy Intake manifold

Fuel Delivery:Walbro 255lph
-Precision 1000cc injectors
-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulater (not purchased yet)
-Z32 Fuel Filter
-FUEL:-----> E-85<----- FTMFW

Engine Management:AEM EMS w/all the goodies listed below
-AEM 5.0 bar map sensor
-AEM Boost control solenoid = Baller
-Tuned by ???

Drivetrain:Stock SR tranny
-Drive Shaft shop 1 peice drive shaft
-Helical LSD
-Act 6 puck clutch (brand new getting installed)
-F1 13lbs Light weight Flywheel ( ive seen these work fine, its getting installed)
-Pressure plate (need a new one tell me what u think of my old one)

Most of the parts are already on the car i can count on 1 hand for the parts i dont have.

This will not be babied at 18 lbs of BOOST, it will be 22+PSI
I will be getting the full potential of the T2 based GT2871r.




here are the pics of the new parts so far and the progress on the turbo.

More pics will come your way soon!!!



The Tomei Cams,RAS,and ACT 6 puck Total $638 after shipping




Turbo Parts that Arrived!!!!!!!!! Total $581 from ATP Turbo after shipping

plus comparison





GT3071r Compressor housing installed after some hard work and elbow grease.






The Snap Ring on the CHRA will piss you OFF, i repeat it will piss you off.
Aftermath:



Mission Complete:







Well i had the tranny pull and this is what i found not bad jus showing pics.



Seems to have over heated pretty bad.



the old exedy clutch



the old flywheel


Here is a really old motor shot.



thats all the pics for now and i will come up to post alot more later. and thanks for looking and dont forget to leave your feedback.

Last edited by S13 curtis; 08-10-2010 at 08:42 PM..
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:09 PM   #2
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:01 PM   #3
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damn...cant wait to see it finished.
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:17 PM   #4
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look how little the turbine wheel is - so weird lookin.

mix and match til it works tho - might take more than one try - but it can happen if u try hard enough...
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:30 PM   #5
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looks like an interesting journey. Wonder what the actual numbers are going to be

-I would use a s15 multi layer gasket
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smelly240 View Post
look how little the turbine wheel is - so weird lookin.

mix and match til it works tho - might take more than one try - but it can happen if u try hard enough...
thanks, and yea i was thinking the same thing about the turbine wheel tiny little thing. it will be tuned on E-85 + a decent amount of timing so we'll see.
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:10 AM   #7
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Nice parts...i cant wait to see the turbo mounted with the special exhaust housing. Thinking about using the same housing. Please post some pictures of how close the wastegate is to the shock tower.
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:04 AM   #8
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Good looking build so far. I can't wait to see how this turbo will do. Where you at in Korea and how much longer do you have?
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho 240 Freak View Post
Good looking build so far. I can't wait to see how this turbo will do. Where you at in Korea and how much longer do you have?
Im here until october then i will come back to the states. Im in daegu Area 4. the car shouls be ready to hit the dyno as soon as i can find a new pressure plate. as for my intercooler pipeing im thinking about going 2.5 on the hot side a 3 inch on the cold side along with the SSQV mounted beforethe throttle plate.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SpdElemts View Post
Nice parts...i cant wait to see the turbo mounted with the special exhaust housing. Thinking about using the same housing. Please post some pictures of how close the wastegate is to the shock tower.
Will do as soon as it gets mounted up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by guitaraholic View Post
Wouldn't a GT2871r w/ a GT3071r compressor wheel be the same as a GT2876r? Which I heard is a poor match because the compressor wheel is too big for the turbine. (I'm not 100% sure on this, but just throwing it out there)
Nope, It dosent turn it into a GT2876r, its still a GT2871r, GT3071r and GT2871r have the same exact compressor wheel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Def View Post
Why not go with a T2 flanged turbo that has a bigger turbine wheel if you really want to make more power.

I might have just gone GT2876R as well, since IIRC it flows a bit more up top than even the big E cover on the 56 trim 71mm wheel.
I decided to just work with what i had and just upgrade the 2871R, my origional plans were to do a .63 T3 backside and have it top mounted but i changed plans jus to make it easier for my buddy working on it.

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Old 01-08-2010, 06:17 AM   #10
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im interested to see the outcome of this...
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:58 AM   #11
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post ur findings of that exhaust housing please!
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:59 AM   #12
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i think to make that housing work - u have to run a pipe off the turbine to move the wastegate.

those housings arent something new they've been out quite a while. - atp turbo sells them - I seen them used on a honda - with the gate sticking upward and the housing horizontal.
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:56 AM   #13
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Why not go with a T2 flanged turbo that has a bigger turbine wheel if you really want to make more power.

I might have just gone GT2876R as well, since IIRC it flows a bit more up top than even the big E cover on the 56 trim 71mm wheel.
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:02 PM   #14
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Wouldn't a GT2871r w/ a GT3071r compressor wheel be the same as a GT2876r? Which I heard is a poor match because the compressor wheel is too big for the turbine. (I'm not 100% sure on this, but just throwing it out there)
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:20 PM   #15
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i stopped reading your mod list after i got to stock internals....

good luck with that.....hopefully it lasts longer than a couple dyno pulls

not trying to be the token pessimistic dickhead of the thread but i am skeptical of the longevity.

you're stationed in Korea making buku $$ can't spend your money...for God sakes man build the bottom end and give yourself some piece of mind. i understand racer x on forum xyz made 24320482084 horsepower for 3 years on stock bottom end without problems.....good for him, but i wouldn't waste 10 grand of my money because of that.

i would have forgone the head work if it was between that or the bottom end, but i know money's not a problem with you since you're military so i am venting strongly my opinion/suggestion that you build the bottom end.

e85 is cheap race gas and will help the stock bottom end last longer...but also e85 varies from batch to batch even at the same pump...therefore care must be taken to make sure your fuel is consistent to the tune, however duly note that even with a perfect tune....the laws of physics still apply and if that bottom end can't take it, it won't hold.

once you reach the limits of that bottom end..it's too late..

best of luck and thank you for your services

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Old 01-22-2010, 08:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z U L8R View Post

you're stationed in Korea making buku $$
i i know moeny's not a problem with you since you're military e85 is cheap
Dave
You dont make much money in the military out there. Well maybe if you are a higher rank but as an E-4 I wasnt making much.
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:09 AM   #17
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Quote:
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i stopped reading your mod list after i got to stock internals....

good luck with that.....hopefully it lasts longer than a couple dyno pulls

not trying to be the token pessimistic dickhead of the thread but i am skeptical of the longevity.

you're stationed in Korea making buku $$ can't spend your money...for God sakes man build the bottom end and give yourself some piece of mind. i understand racer x on forum xyz made 24320482084 horsepower for 3 years on stock bottom end without problems.....good for him, but i wouldn't waste 10 grand of my money because of that.

i would have forgone the head work if it was between that or the bottom end, but i know money's not a problem with you since you're military so i am venting strongly my opinion/suggestion that you build the bottom end.

e85 is cheap race gas and will help the stock bottom end last longer...but also e85 varies from batch to batch even at the same pump...therefore care must be taken to make sure your fuel is consistent to the tune, however duly note that even with a perfect tune....the laws of physics still apply and if that bottom end can't take it, it won't hold.

once you reach the limits of that bottom end..it's too late..

best of luck and thank you for your services

Dave

funny..... i made 442rwhp on my stock block SR20 for almost 7 years.... i sold the entire engine setup and now its in a different chassis still ripping shit up....

its all in the tune!
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:23 AM   #18
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Well the 1000cc injectors and Jim Wolf Tech Resistors came in today also with the Greddy Fuel Rail. Those are Precision Injectors.



Also i dont have an update on the turbo fitment yet the only update i have is that the motor was pulled and the flywheel tranny and clutch were installed. I will post pics of the cut-out as soon as i can, the other update is that i ordered new intercooler pipes and im ditching the small steel pipes the old pipes were 2' hot side and 2.5 on the cold side and they were pretty shitty. Thenew pipes i just purchased are Aluminum and its 3 inch coldside and 2.5 hotside,air flowshould be better. I'm also going to get a new blowoff valve im not going to use my ssqv anymore, Im either going with the new Tial Q Blow off valve which is the one im leaning towards or the Greddy type r blow off valve.

I would like to have your input on what you guys think for the BOV,thanks.

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Old 01-09-2010, 12:38 AM   #19
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Well, I can't wait to see it on the dyno. It would be nice to see a decent spooling turbo that makes pretty good power
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:32 AM   #20
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Little update and i ran into a little problem check it out:



the compressor housing is touching the exhaust manifold.

here are the solutions to the problem:

1. Use the stock SR exhaust manifold Extrude and Swained because there is no way in hell im putting a stock restrictive manifold back on.
OR
2.Purchase a T2 Flange and use it as a spacer between the turbo and the manifold.

Opinions Please.
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:58 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S13 curtis View Post
Little update and i ran into a little problem check it out:



the compressor housing is touching the exhaust manifold.

here are the solutions to the problem:

1. Use the stock SR exhaust manifold Extrude and Swained because there is no way in hell im putting a stock restrictive manifold back on.
OR
2.Purchase a T2 Flange and use it as a spacer between the turbo and the manifold.

Opinions Please.
Is it possible to clock the comp housing slightly to gain a little clearance?

Sidenote: its a pity they didn't develope the ex housing to suit the more compact Tial MVS gate.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:26 AM   #22
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Is it possible to clock the comp housing slightly to gain a little clearance?

Sidenote: its a pity they didn't develope the ex housing to suit the more compact Tial MVS gate.
yea, it should Clear i will take a pic of the mock up as soon as i get this turbo on the manifold. it was clocked a couple times and still wont clear enough because of runner #1. i will most likely go the extrude and swained route
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:02 PM   #23
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yea, it should Clear i will take a pic of the mock up as soon as i get this turbo on the manifold. it was clocked a couple times and still wont clear enough because of runner #1. i will most likely go the extrude and swained route
Just tap the comp housing outlet a couple of times with a soft mallet or the wooden handle of a hammer in the direction you need - it will rotate into position - you don't need to undo the bolts each time.

Good luck
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:39 AM   #24
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I've heard the Stock manifold flows pretty good once its been extrude honed. Besides Then you can sell me the manifold...lol J/K
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:43 AM   #25
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what about going top mount t2? if thats not an option then the extrude honed stock many gets my vote.
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Old 01-09-2010, 12:16 PM   #26
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Why not just go top mount?
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:24 PM   #27
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Why not just go top mount?
Too much work + hes already got these parts haha
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:28 PM   #28
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Why not just go top mount?
I would not waste my time with a T2 topmount. if i was going topmount i wouldve bought a .63 T3 housing.I would have to get a custom down pipe new ssbraided lines etc, too much of a headache for me.

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Too much work + hes already got these parts haha
You read my mind.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:35 PM   #29
s13dan
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Yea, i had a tubular mani. Shit broke, so now i use a stock one and im fine with it. Stock unit will never break and it flows fine. It doesn't look very cool but if you get it powder coated it doesn't look bad.Spacers work too just keep in mind cast iron is tuff stuff.


ps-for any asshat that wants to make a comment, it was an HKS mani. 1/2 inch flange and it still cracked.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:41 PM   #30
Dee
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Subbed, interested to see how close you get to your mark. Godspeed bruh
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