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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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04-07-2013, 12:11 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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Noob post - SR vs RB
Sorry for the noob post, but I had a couple important questions before I start my S14 build shortly.
First off, I'll be exiting the Honda scene (for obvious reasons) and getting into an S chassis. I'm still planning out everything as of right now. I'm shooting for 350-400whp while keeping it reliable enough to daily drive. SO, if you had the choice between an SR or RB which would you pick and why? Is 350-400 a reasonable range without getting too deep into the bottom end of either motor? Ideally I'd like to only do cams, springs, retainers, and valves along with a turbo upgrade, bigger injectors, MAF, and a tune. If anyone has various links to builds with descriptions of motor mods and numbers, send them to me. I'll be wandering around the site looking for more information. I realize this is a dumb question, but I am ignorant on Nissan's. I tried searching sr vs rb and it said my search wasn't descriptive enough. Thanks for any helpful advice, and I plan to have my build up here as soon as I get started on it. Flame suit activated. |
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04-07-2013, 12:22 PM | #2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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04-07-2013, 12:42 PM | #5 |
Post Whore!
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This sounds like a question I asked myself in high school... You know, writing in the back of my notebook during class. If you're 32 just now exiting the Honda scene, you should probably re-evaluate other things in your life.
There is so much information on this forum for both engines you should be able to come up with the solution on your own.
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04-07-2013, 01:20 PM | #7 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Quote:
RB20, the throwaway engine of choice in Japan since 1993... |
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04-07-2013, 01:57 PM | #10 |
Zilvia Junkie
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either engine can make 350hp reliably...... it will be cheaper to build an sr, stay away from the RB20..... but other than that it is personal preference....
i personally have a built SR, but why not just turbo your KA? |
04-07-2013, 02:06 PM | #11 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
I'd definitely only be interested in a RB25 or 26. RB20 is out of the question. Reasons I don't want to go with a KA is because I don't have one. I'm planning on buying a shell and dropping a motor and I'd rather go RB25/SR20. |
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04-07-2013, 02:08 PM | #13 |
Leaky Injector
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Yeah, I didn't clearly state myself. Would you care to explain your preference? What does your RB have that you wouldn't find in an SR?
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04-07-2013, 02:11 PM | #14 |
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lol it's funny all the hate for the RB20.
OP, if you choose an RB20, just throw a big turbo on it, and it moveeeeees. just get an RB20 + like a Gt35R + E85 + 30psi boost = SR20 destroyer RB20>SR20. RB20 : 6 cylinders Iron block better head Rev's to 8k+ happily Will take as much boost as you throw at it ( believe me... I have thrown 28pi on my RB20 on a BGS200G and it asks for more ) (will require a TUNE though and ALL supporting mods. like any engine ) Less load PER ROD PER HP- FACT Cheaper sounds better Oiling issues Parts are NOT HARD TO FIND, and NOT expensive AND SOLD IN THE USA! ( like any RB engine ) Don't believe the BS that you can't find stuff. SR20 Aluminum block/ head - lighter Dead engine above 7.5k rpm ( or so i've seen ) 4 cylinders more load per rod per hp Could make plenty of hp on lots of boost and E85 aswell More expensive sounds like crap easier swap ( if you're lazy ) RB25 Everything the RB20 is except 2.5L People SAY it can hold more HP, But nobody has bothered to take a RB20 up to those HP levels. HOWEVER there are 650+whp Rb20's. spools turbo a little faster than RB20 Proven to make HP oiling issues (rb20 aswell ) Harder to swap then a SR or RB20 custom parts may be required Transmission holds more power then RB20 as expensive or more expensive than SR20, almost double price of RB20 RB26 Expensive swap. lots of custom parts required Revs to ( I've been told ) 9k rpm without a hiccup. Makes more power/ holds more power then a RB20 and SR20 combined. 2.6L Some of these engines aren't even old ( like 2002 / 2004 ) not for someone with a limited budget. Ls1 Torque expensive swap lightwieght for engine size gas guzzler lots of custom parts required. not for someone with limited budget. I could be wrong on some of this so... |
04-07-2013, 02:14 PM | #15 |
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unless... you encounter a 35r running 30psi on pump... why would you only run 30psi in a 35r with e85
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04-07-2013, 04:20 PM | #17 |
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but I have a 35r and drive it on the street with 30psi it's totally streetable!
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04-07-2013, 02:39 PM | #20 |
Leaky Injector
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04-07-2013, 11:26 PM | #21 |
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[QUOTE=OrangeVirus1;
Ls1 Torque expensive swap lightwieght for engine size gas guzzler lots of custom parts required. not for someone with limited budget. I could be wrong on some of this so...[/QUOTE] I'm not all about dropping a loafing V8 in an import, but I have to disagree on a few things on this one With the right gearing (really tall T-56 or T6060), you can easily get 25-26mpg, maybe more. A lot of the SR guys average that or worse. I get about 29mpg sometimes 30, and I've been told I'm doing really good for an SR20. I think if you shop around, you can do the swap for not much more than an upgraded SR20det swap. Figure LS1/LS2 can be had for cheap. I got my L92/6.2 with ECU, wire harness, pedal assembly and all accessories for $2,800 for my SL-C project. You can get a T56 for around a grand used. The rest is fabrication, fabrication. I've got a little less than $4.5k in my SR Swap (and that's being very frugal), with upgraded ECU, 550cc, FMIC, Z32 MAF, GT2860rs (about to upgrade to gtx2867), drive-shaft (mine was an auto), full exhaust. Stage 4 clutch, yadda yadda, yes there are a few other things I didn't need (ACT Chromoly flywheel), but figure for about $6K you could probably do an LS swap (haven't looked up, just guessing here). |
04-07-2013, 02:49 PM | #22 |
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540dude don't listen to OrangeVirus1. He is a bot sent out by the DSM forums to persuade new Nissan owners into choosing the worst engine possible for their upcoming swaps. Then years later when the victim comes back and says, "Damn, I should have never went RB20." He will come into the thread and laugh at your misfortunes.
More info here: http://zilvia.net/f/chat/512119-attn...a-members.html
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04-07-2013, 02:53 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Rb20 is not the worst engine. There is no way an RB20 is worse then a CA18. To the OP, oiling only becomes an issue when you start making lots of power. the Oil pump/ collar.. stuff. Look it up. also the RB25 is stricken by this same issue. Don't believe all the Hype.. Rb20's are not that bad, and you can make one really fast. and yes, There will be less stress per rod at the same HP on a RB20, then a SR20. and anyone who thinks a Rb20 will blow up around 400hp, is dead wrong. |
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04-07-2013, 02:54 PM | #24 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
serious LOL..... and orange virus, i am running aa sr20 on e85, with a gtx35r..... would love to see an rb20 keep up..... (not talking crap on other rb motors) |
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04-07-2013, 02:57 PM | #25 | |
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When I get my E85 tune finished, I'm willing to bet I'll keep up or at least be close behind. I'm at 28psi on pump right now. I already know you'll get the pull right away because my car takes it's sweet time spooling.. |
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04-07-2013, 03:49 PM | #26 |
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05-18-2013, 01:19 PM | #27 |
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Ok lets do the math. SR20 is 4 cyl. RB20 is 6 cyl... Ex. Spark plugs are $4 a piece. So 16 vs 24 ducks. THIS PATTERN WILL CONTINUE though rebuilds, coil packs, parts...anything. As far as aftermarket support the SR20 is unsurpassed. Get the SR, the RB is expensive and stupid. If your going RB it better be a RB25 or 26 otherwise you are dumb
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04-07-2013, 03:03 PM | #28 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
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04-07-2013, 03:15 PM | #29 |
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Yes, and be careful because he might try to sell you his RB20 for stupid cheap saying it can boost on 28psi easily but as soon as you take it to 15psi you'll blow the rings right out of the block.
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04-07-2013, 03:18 PM | #30 | |
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I wanted to before, to get a DSM. but I decided to just keep it instead. and I've boosted past 15psi lots of times lol.. rings are fine. engine fine. |
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