ProjectPanda13

I have been having an issue with 'pump up', very much like what DSM encounter with their clutches. Before driving, the clutch pedal is soft and engages low, but as I drive the pedal becomes stiffer and the engagement point moves higher up. When I adjust the pedal lower, like what the DSM guys do, I can feel the pressure release. But if I adjust it too low, I am not able to get into gear.

All this happened about a year ago when I did a clutch replacement. I installed a ClutchMasters FX350 along with a their lightweight steel flywheel. I also installed new pilot and throwout bearing, not to mention arp flywheel bolts. After the install, I had to adjust the clutch pedal further out since I couldn't get into gear. The next morning, I drove the car to work and I first encountered the stiff pedal. I played with the adjustment for a week before finding a decent length that didn't allow the pedal to get too stiff, but still stiffer, and drove it til now. I also have to pop the clutch pedal sometimes to be able to get into gear. I also installed a Nismo slave cylinder to see if it helps, but it didn't

Last night, after a long drive in traffic, my pedal lost all pressure and I had to pump the pedal multiple times to get pressure and also adjusted the pedal to the end of the rod. I made it home but with difficulty. I rebleed the system and have been able to drive it, but have to pop the clutch pedal more often now.

Any idea what it could be? I am going to attempt to replace the master cylinder to see if that will solve the problem. Anyone experience this on their car?

Sorry for the long explanation.

Thanks,
-Dave

Rayne

Is the clutch line coming off of the clutch master cylinder connected to the: A) dampner box or b) directly to the clutch slave cylinder?

__________________
Do need the Factory Service Manual? Click here.

ProjectPanda13

The line goes through the damper box. I am hoping to remove it this weekend and see.
-Dave

spiegel420

Air. That damper box is a pain to bleed. Remove it, bleed it, done.

FaLKoN240

I would've thrown the dampener box away when I changed the slave.

In fact, that's what I did when I changed my slave cyl out earlier this year.

__________________

Best way to do business with me? Make your best offer FIRST.

ProjectPanda13

Yea, I should have at the time. But I had this pump up problem when I first installed my clutch without opening up the system, so I didn't think air was an issue. I haven't had time to do my clutch master cylinder replacement this weekend liked I had hoped. So hopefully, I can free up some time this coming week. I'll, definitely remove the damper box also. I'll keep every posted. Thanks.
Latez,
-Dave

ProjectPanda13

UPDATE:

So I replaced my clutch master cylinder and removed the damper box. This has solved my clutch pump up issue. However, with the clutch master I had to adjust the rod all the way out to the end to get enough movement to engage and disengage my clutch. I can now go in and out of gear smoothly but the rod is adjusted out to the max and the clutch stop bolt removed.

Would I run into any issues in the future with this?

Thanks and Latez,
-Dave

spiegel420

I would use the stopper bolt. Otherwise their will be constant extra pressure on the master. Which may or may not encourage it to fail sooner. As long as youre happy with the pedal feel, and engament point, once that bolt is in, youre good! My car uses the cruise control release switch as the stopper.