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Old 05-17-2015, 11:25 PM   #121
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Good to hear man!

I need one day of work to complete it really. I have one more final for class Tuesday, and I should finish this up Wednesday/Thursday. Pretty simple stuff really.

ToDo List:
-Install Driveshaft
-Install Exhaust
-Hook up Power Steering Lines
-Bleed Clutch
-Bleed Coolant System
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:14 PM   #122
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Finally! She moves! I still need to do minor things like power steering and bleed the system but this was a relief.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=/h-u38cec84A
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:46 PM   #123
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Hell yeah!
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Old 06-15-2015, 04:10 PM   #124
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Just been doing tedious work to it.

-Bled the cooling system
-PS lines hooked up and away from the headers.

Took it out for a drive and every time I would touch the throttle it would bog pretty bad and no power.
I tried unplugging the MAF which allowed me to give it throttle without a problem, but of course it runs super rich.

At the moment I am trying to hook up the CEL but I am having trouble finding the CEL (W) wire on the 1uz ECU. I have looked at wiring diagrams, still no luck.
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:54 AM   #125
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Not sure what year your UZ is but my W (cel) was a Yellow & red wire on the 26 pin plug.
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:03 PM   #126
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Awesome thread man! Glad to see you getting the car moving around under it's own power. I look forward to seeing a celebratory burnout soon!
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Old 06-29-2015, 02:58 PM   #127
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Quote:
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Not sure what year your UZ is but my W (cel) was a Yellow & red wire on the 26 pin plug.
Sorry late response since my computer isn't' working and I had all my wiring diagrams on that...

My 1uz is a 1992 out of a ls400. But I also see the 26 pin plug and one of the wires is yellow and red. Maybe I have been reading the wrong year wiring diagram.
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Old 07-05-2015, 06:59 AM   #128
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If you care to share, about what does it cost to have a 1uzfe/ka trans swap?
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:45 PM   #129
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If you care to share, about what does it cost to have a 1uzfe/ka trans swap?
Under $3,000~ I'd say. My exhaust was probably the most expensive part because of clearance issues.

Back to the wiring issue. I think I have found the problem. I didn't do my wiring and I found that my 26 Plug as suggested by profile18 is suppose to have the "W" wire also known as the "CEL"

Here is my 26 Plug: The person who wired my s13 took out all the other wires including the CEL.
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:20 PM   #130
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Finally wired the CEL.
But no codes are being thrown.....
I put it in diagnostic mode and all it does is flash the CEL continuously while the key is in the "ON" position.
I read that if it continuously flashes there is no codes being stored. Which doesn't make sense to me because I do not have an EGR and that code should be flashing.

Anyways here's a small CEL how to...

This is my first small write up so here we go:

Solution to wiring the CEL (Check Engine Light) for a 1992 ls400 1uzfe into a s13:

1uzfe CEL Wire Location:
-First the 1uzfe CEL wire is a ground
-Refer to wiring diagram: http://www.lextreme.com/lexecc1.pdf
-CEL wire (YELLOW/RED) located on the 1uz ECU 26plug is #5 labeled "W"

I have a lot of wires missing on the 26 plug due to the swap and how it was wired. But here is my 26 plug you can see the YELLOW/RED CEL wire.


1991 s13 DOHC CEL Location:
-This time the S13 CEL wire is power so it works perfect with the 1uzfe CEL wire.
-Refer to wiring guide: http://www.ma240sx.net/forums/showthread.php?tid=10070
-CEL wire (RED) #4 located on F1 plug its the brown plug that normally connects to the ka24de engine harness.

Here is my F1 plug, you can clearly see the RED CEL wire. I then cut the red wire away from the F1 plug to get it ready to be soldered together with the 1uz CEL wire.


To make it simple:
Yellow/Red (1uzfe wire) spliced into Red (s13 wire)

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Old 07-12-2015, 01:58 AM   #131
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Right on my UZ is the same year. i also deleted EGR and mine dosent thrown any codes. i read some where with the earlier LS400 UZ's jumping the EGR isnt necessary. With your bogging problem sounds more of an O2 sensor problem check your sensors &/or connection. My UZ fell flat on its face with any throttle when i forgot to plug my
O2 sensor back in.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:21 PM   #132
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After working all summer I finally got the chance to work on it a little.

It's running pig rich so I decided to do a Fuel Pressure Test..... Sure enough my fuel pressure is pretty damn high, 50+ psi at idle. Looks like the stock FPR can't handle the walbro 255.

What aftermarket FPR's do you guys use??

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Old 09-25-2015, 09:04 AM   #133
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haha. This is something no one does with 1uzs.
Factory 1uz have a variable pump, so their FPS suck.
I just used a cheap one i had laying around. But anyone will work. Make sure it's for fuel injection and not carb!
41psi is stock.
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Old 09-25-2015, 12:43 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoguner View Post
haha. This is something no one does with 1uzs.
Factory 1uz have a variable pump, so they're FPS suck.
I just used a cheap one i had laying around. But anyone will work. Make sure it's for fuel injection and not carb!
41psi is stock.
Yeah I was told to remove the Pulsation Damper too.

I was planning to get the Tomei Type S.

What size are those banjo fittings w/ the bolt on your fuel return and feed on your fuel rail??
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Old 09-28-2015, 10:53 AM   #135
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Super interesting discovery! Nice dude!
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:17 AM   #136
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Quote:
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Yeah I was told to remove the Pulsation Damper too.

I was planning to get the Tomei Type S.

What size are those banjo fittings w/ the bolt on your fuel return and feed on your fuel rail??
Just responded to your PM.
Sorry i don't get on much now.


Believe it or not it is the same fitting as the brake booster vacuum line on the back of the manifold. Same size and everything. just go find two of those from the junk yard and use them. Makes it so much easier!
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Old 09-30-2015, 06:49 PM   #137
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Quote:
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Super interesting discovery! Nice dude!
Thanks! How are things going for you?


Quote:
Originally Posted by shoguner View Post
Just responded to your PM.
Sorry i don't get on much now.


Believe it or not it is the same fitting as the brake booster vacuum line on the back of the manifold. Same size and everything. just go find two of those from the junk yard and use them. Makes it so much easier!
Just picked them up, but that's awesome. who knew that would even work! You can use the banjo and the bolt. Easily saved me $20+ Thanks a ton man!
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Old 10-01-2015, 01:16 PM   #138
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Thanks! How are things going for you?




Just picked them up, but that's awesome. who knew that would even work! You can use the banjo and the bolt. Easily saved me $20+ Thanks a ton man!
Glad it worked!
I have no idea how i found it out! haha. I just remember seeing it and be like... what if?
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Old 10-04-2015, 10:52 PM   #139
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Haha exactly... good find!

So...

Installed the Tomei Type S FPR I adjusted it to 40 psi, it helped a little but still bogged and died out with throttle.... So yes the problem is still here. But I decided to actually keep it running for about 30 minutes without applied throttle to adjust the TPS a bit more. I was able to rev the engine freely when it was in operating temperature without bogging out which was nice.
My possible verdicts: Either the IACV or Temp Sensor, both of them aren't throwing codes. The black smoke that comes from the exhaust still leads me to think Temp Sensor (even though it's in spec). I have a spare IACV that I am going to install and go from there...I will update in the up coming week.
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Old 10-05-2015, 02:07 PM   #140
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Haha exactly... good find!

So...

Installed the Tomei Type S FPR I adjusted it to 40 psi, it helped a little but still bogged and died out with throttle.... So yes the problem is still here. But I decided to actually keep it running for about 30 minutes without applied throttle to adjust the TPS a bit more. I was able to rev the engine freely when it was in operating temperature without bogging out which was nice.
My possible verdicts: Either the IACV or Temp Sensor, both of them aren't throwing codes. The black smoke that comes from the exhaust still leads me to think Temp Sensor (even though it's in spec). I have a spare IACV that I am going to install and go from there...I will update in the up coming week.
Delete the IACV to rule out the IACV.
Black smoke is STUPID rich. I would check stuck/leaky injectors.
Temp sensor wouldn't hurt to change.
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:03 PM   #141
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Just another Lexus v8 into an s13 Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoguner View Post
Delete the IACV to rule out the IACV.

Black smoke is STUPID rich. I would check stuck/leaky injectors.

Temp sensor wouldn't hurt to change.

In order to delete the IACV I need an aftermarket ECU though correct?

I was thinking the same since I'm using one injector that I had to get from the junkyard. But I'll fix the temp sensor and IACV since they are cheap and easy.
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:45 PM   #142
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Cleaned the IACV today and what do you know it runs even when cold. I even took it on its first drive today. I just need to clean her up and button up the remaining parts.



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Old 10-08-2015, 02:23 PM   #143
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nice work, lets see how this goes.
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:15 PM   #144
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Question...
Did you guys use a different Throttle Cable for this swap besides the s13 cable? Seems as though the cable is too tight and lifts the throttle a bit so it idles high.

I also still can't WOT it because it just bogs and backfires, but light throttle works fine. I am debating to get new injectors even though most people say injectors aren't really issues on these engines.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:25 AM   #145
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i used an sc400 throttle cable on my Cressida, not sure if it works for S-chassis.
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Old 10-20-2015, 03:43 PM   #146
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i used an sc400 throttle cable on my Cressida, not sure if it works for S-chassis.
Sounds good thanks. I asked a couple people on the facebook 1uz page and they slot the throttle cable mount bolt holes or they just use a SOHC cable which I believe mine is a DOHC cable.
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Old 10-20-2015, 03:53 PM   #147
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I though the SOHC cable is shorter than the DOHC.
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:24 PM   #148
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I though the SOHC cable is shorter than the DOHC.

I guess you are right. That's odd then. I'll just slot the bracket and that should help.
My cable seems long and I have a lot of slack but the actual metal part of the cable that attaches to the throttle prevents it from hitting the throttle stop screw.




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Old 12-24-2015, 05:02 PM   #149
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So I've been MIA for awhile it seems. Work was drowning me in hours and I even put the car on craigslist to see what I can get for it, but nothing interests me.

Finally got the chance to work on it yesterday fixed some small leaks, and took it for a drive. Now I want to keep it again haha. However, it kept bogging on full throttle.

My buddy told me he had bogging issues because his air filter was too restrictive. So I took off the filter and BAM fixed my bogging issues... Shitty ebay filters suck! I took it out to run some errands for xmas and everything works pretty damn well except for my garbage alignment and loud ass exhaust. I plan to buy myself some tools for xmas and hopefully I'll get this thing up and drifting again.
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Old 12-24-2015, 08:30 PM   #150
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Is the IACV under the throttle body where the hell is it? I have a 95 LS400 and I'm just going through basic maintenance stuff. I eventually want to 5 speed it, but after reading through your thread I'm second guessing lol.
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