jimefam

I'm looking for fiberglass doors for my S13, who makes em and if anyone here has got some how about a review? I've found them on Chaser Aero but he said they don't have them and will take months to get them. When I asked how long he said he'd call me back in 10 mins and never did.

MidwestMyriad

Why do you need/want fiberglass doors?

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@MMyriad

sr20sean

do you have a roll cage with door bars?

if not youre going to die in a side impact.

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ZilviaKid

IIRC, the hinges on stock doors are NON detachable, so your gonna have to ghetto rig some shit up

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1989 Nissan 240sx - Hatch - Sr
2006 Honda Ruckus - Fat & Low

shiftdrift

Or cut them out and drill holes to.bolt on? Lawlz. Anyways, unless this is a drag car or road race only car I wouldn't worry about it


Edit: worry about getting fiberglass doors that is. Waste.

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SW Fab

MidwestMyriad

Might as well just go carbon

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@MMyriad

!Zar!

Anyone using fiberglass doors without door bars is an idiot.

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codyace

If it's a full on track car, I'd sooner gut the factory doors and just leave the shell....the weight difference isn't worth the cost of fiber or carbon

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TougeLove

This^^^

same with some trunks too, its actually less weight to take out the framing than to replace with carbon/fiberglass.

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jimefam

Yes it's strictly a drag car with a 25.5 spec chromoly cage so I'm good there. Already gutted stock doors and they are still pretty heavy, I can save some weight for sure. The guy at chaser told me their carbon doors actually weigh more than the fiberglass but they are stronger to take regular glass and door hardware. I will have a fixed lexan window so no need for CF if the fiberglass ones r lighter. I've already got CF hood and hatch and would buy fiberglass fenders if try weren't all ricered out.

jimefam

As for cost I'm already about $65k in what the hell I might as well go all out.

CleanAndLegit

wth 65k? and not done? doode with 65k id make my car fly.

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jimefam

Lol I used to think the same way but stuff adds up man I've probably got 10-12k in just electronics.

memphis180sx

what class do u plan to run in if u dont mind me askin

jimefam

No problem I'll be running X275

BTplaya

^ Also interested.

65k gets you in 10.5 outlaw or even pro mod. Hope your running 5's.

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95' S14 w/ SR20DET - 412hp

jimefam

LOLOL please point me to someone who built even a semi competitive Promod for $65k? Hell a good rolling chassis for Promod is over $100,000 easy. I know a few of the top outlaw 10.5 cars and none of them were anywhere near $65k. Tim Lynch who has the baddest and fastest outlaw 10.5 car out there built my engine and trust me you can't buy his motor for $65,000 let alone a turn key car. Some people really just talk man lol.

dreadedfist

Just check around your area for people who are good with glass. They could probably make the doors for you. Or check the usual jdm sites like rhdjapan, etc.

I laugh when someone asks a question and the usual group of people run in to tell the person they're wrong/dumb/its a bad idea/waste of time/etc

He asked about glass doors, he doesn't care about your theory of general relativity. Quit shamelessly increasing your post counts. Look at me, I'm like a mega pro of never posting.

Mega. Pro.

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RB20 Intake Manifolds

fckillerbee

I was thinking the same thing.

If someone wanted fiberglass doors and didn't have a cage...FUCK IT...he dies ...he dies.

I don't know if chaser and AIT are the same company. Hit up Fatboy Garage and see if they can get you some fiberglass doors. Ask for Ken.
-hamburg.

scottie

Sometimes I forget the amount of idiots and general lack of knowledge on this board. I have Origin Lab doors. They are nice. The fitment is spot on and retains all the factory inside mounting points so you can at least put the track back in and have a place to mount a roll knob. Even gutted door is not as light.

They are merely cosmetic though. They wouldn't stop a playskool tricycle.

To install, take you stock doors and drill out the spot welds. These will double as your drill holes for the door (door is flat and allows the user to drill mounting holes). Then slowly cut off the weld spots around the edge of the hinge. I paid a shop to do mine but he sent me pics of his work. He bolts hinges to chassis, placed door where it should sit when closed and marked the holes. Drilled holes out in hinge and thru door. Used grade 8 bolts to bolt hinge. I even went as far as having custom aluminum backing plates made for the doors for extra support.

Btw I weighed them on a scale. 11.2 lbs. Goodluck.

KA24DESOneThree

11.2lbs each is a reduction of ~33 lbs per door over stock S14 (which I can only assume is similar in weight; I've seen 65lbs listed for S13 doors but I do not believe this). One could also remove the stock door impact bars, which weigh 10.5lbs, and end up reducing weight by 21lbs for free... but that's not the point, is it?

Considering my car is down to 2235lbs, installation of fiberglass doors represents a weight loss of nearly 3% for ~$700 shipped. The only thing that compares would be a dry carbon roof, for a loss of anywhere from 50-65lbs from the highest point of the car, although the only guy I knew who was doing them is no longer doing so... as far as I know.

By the way, stock S13 door panels are 5.9lbs each, so one fiberglass door weighs about the same as both door panels.

jimefam

Thanks for the info I'm fairly certain those are the ones I'll buy. I always find it funny to how people want to tell you you don't need/know what your talking about. Like the guy above who said you could build a promod for $65,000 when he obviously has no clue what he's talking about.

jimefam

Iirc my builder weighed each door at 63lbs and he had cut off the lower portion of the door panels where the speaker and little storage space is to run the bars so 65lbs sounds about right. What I'd like to know is how much the straight up skeleton of the stock door weighs to better compare. Either way I'm gonna save a shit load of weight. I'm hoping to get my car to 2450lbs with me in it and fully fueled and ready to go.

harrypotter

Pics of car please!

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josephin510

Pics of car needed. The stock doors are heavy az freak. I used a jack to hold my gutted door up just to bolt it on.

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Trade my Rb25 for some wheels.
Buy my Sc300.

gzer750

pics all ready. lol

jimefam

Well I've got my build thread on Nico but here is another thread with the condensed version and lots of pics.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/155003-drag-rb25-s13.html

brndck

My seibon carbon doors are way way WAY lighter than oem doors. I've never put em on a scale but I'd venture that they're 15-20 lbs per side lighter. And yes they bolt right up.

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huffandpuff00

i have origin FRP doors(i think 9lbs) and they cost me $750 shipped. They are great quality like their other products. you do have to cut your OEM door's hingers out and weld studs to them so you can bolt them up. It sucks to scrap a good door just for hinges!

Might be easier to gut your doors.

Irresistible

Gut stock door.
Leave shell.
Replace glass with Lexan.
Maybe put in manual window mechanism thing if you still wanna be able to roll window down.

Save money.

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