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03-05-2009, 07:57 AM | #121 | ||||||
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I believe Koni and Ohlins will do the same for their off the shelf dampers as well. Quote:
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My friend and my new exhaust. |
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03-05-2009, 08:11 AM | #123 |
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It's a carbon fiber Back Yard Special wing. I'm going to take it to the body shop soon to have it stripped of the paint and recleared.
You know what's amazing? That whole rear bumper is painted in black rust enamel.. Look how glossy it looks! I also painted parts of the body that were rusting with the rust enamel.. Can't even tell... |
03-05-2009, 10:36 AM | #125 |
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Interesting suspension setup. How are the roads where you're at? Seems that you'd have to get really well paved roads to take advantage of such a stiff suspension. as far as tires go, it's also nice you have a choice of wider re-01r's there. iirc, the widest 15's I can find via US tire merchants for the Z1 ss's are 195's. going wider would pretty much mean going with 615's or Kumho MX's (which I use, and they do well at hpde events).
here's my EG suspension setup; ots koni yellows ground control coilovers, front 400 lbs (10k?) rear 500 (8k?). mugen upper front bar e-bay pos upper rear bar cusco lower front bar asr subframe brace jim-fab traction bar no front swaybar itr 22 mm rear swaybar mugen trailing arm bushings quaife helical lsd 15x7 +48 rotas 205/50 kumho mx mystery alignment (have no done yet). I like the way the car handles on the street. Body roll is minimal. It almost never gets upset by road irregularities (roads not good here in socal), or mediocre road conditions you get at tracks like streets of willow. On the track it is okay. It grips decent, also minimal body roll, drives predictably. There's just not as much rotation as I would like. Then again my standard of a well rotating car is a miata and evo. It surely would benefit from a proper alignment (and def more seat time). |
03-05-2009, 12:30 PM | #128 |
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ayuaddict...
if you're still looking for a decent forum, i didnt read through all the pages here, but u might wanna checkout NWP4LIFE.com 2009 | COMING SOON tight knit community with 99% less assholes than H-T
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03-05-2009, 05:30 PM | #130 | |
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Roads are shitty and made of coral. The RE01Rs are a great tire. I doubt I could drive anywhere near as fast if I was still using RT615s. You have no front bar, 22mm rear bar and there's not enough rotation? Damn... Make the rear end stiffer via chassis braces? Stock rear sway bar I have problems lifting tires on the street... |
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03-05-2009, 06:03 PM | #131 |
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Think RE01-R's are being discontinued.
Tirerack is doing a closeout on them right now, and there are decent deals to be had. The replacement should be the RE-11's, and they'll be avail in 205/50/15 @ US$120/tire; since you're in Japan, I'd imagine you guys got the RE-11's sooner. have any idea if they're any good? RE-01R Currently Available Prices and Sizes RE-11 Currently Available Prices and Sizes There's also the newer Kumho XS with some interesting sizes (like 315/17's) & reasonable pricing. 205/50/15's size are offered. Not much news on that despite being on the market for several months already; seriously though, it is becoming more difficult for good tires to be made in wider sizes for smaller 15" (or even 17") diameter wheels. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....model=Ecsta+XS Really wish the Z1's came in 205/15. I have them right now on my evo, and i'm really happy how they perform at autoX & hpde's. the price is right too. a set of 245/18 cost me around $820 shipped from tire-rack. With the rotation, I'll prob get the alignment done right first. maybe make some adjustments with camber give the rear -1, front -2. would be fun to give some slight toe out in the front. agreed with the additional bracing. will try that next. I like how you run wider wheels in the front. I'm intrigued to try that out myself. It's a convincing enough excuse for me to get another set of wheels. |
03-05-2009, 11:25 PM | #132 |
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yea im not too sure about the 195/50s...
im personally happy with the azenis for now, they arethe grippiest tires ive owned to date and my driving skills are not any where near decent any ways. but i will definitely keep the star specs and re01rs in mind when these tires get all worn up. if anything i want to figure out a way to reduce bump steer, perhaps flip the tie rod ends upside down and use a longer ball joint and spacer like the SPL ones for 240? ive kept the car at a reaosnable height but i think perhaps the suspension might benefit from roll center adjusters... man i dont know shit about actually having a car perform well. lol. |
03-05-2009, 11:42 PM | #133 |
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615's might not be the absolute best tires out there, but honestly I think they're fine.
actually they're a wonderful autoX & street tire as they grip great when cold. as far as suspension mods go, I recommend keeping it simple to begin with. if it were me, I'd even stick with the stock suspension, get an alignment, & good tires first. just learn to drive it well. add parts later as needed be (not the other way around). I don't disagree with your choice in parts per say, but I think you'd benefit more from investing in seat time more than parts right now. If you feel you don't know enough, then you prob shouldn't be spending too much $ yet on parts. if you're cheap and/or poor just go autoXing like once a month. that's like $60/month. Its nothing. imo, obtaining a suspension you're happy with is a gradual process that requires lots of experimentation & practice. It's also a personal process. What works for 'such and such' might not be optimal for your driving style. You just have to drive, and play with settings step-by-step. If needed be, just research what the H-T guys on the track/autoX section are doing. (the rest of the guys on that site are no more than poseurs and/or drag racers imo). you'll begin to notice patterns that are indicative of what works and what doesn't. spending 2 mins on H-T autoX/RoadRace forum, I ran across this thread. http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2507289 While you might not be in the same exact situation as the OP, good general advice is given on one's approach to play with your suspension. start simple and move up. I just wouldn't agree with driving around in complete shit parts that are dangerous and inconsistent. at the very least, have something reliable, get good tires and pads. |
03-06-2009, 12:33 AM | #135 |
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never thought id hear someone on zilvia ever say that lmao.. no offense to some of the nice hondas posted in this thread.
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03-06-2009, 12:39 AM | #136 | |
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Type R Euro Accord swap Coils LSD Etc... Sounds more fun than my 240.
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03-06-2009, 03:27 AM | #138 | |
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im not new to messing around with cars by any means, however this is my first non RWD car as well as the newest car i have owned. im not completely mechanically impotent nor am i completely devoid of any driving experience, just i have nothing worth mentioning. maybe im trying too hard to get my civic to handle like the corollas/miatas/S13s im used to driving. like you say i should try to understand the car better and work with it's advantages instead of trying to "fix" the differences. |
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03-06-2009, 03:35 AM | #139 | |
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You're like the Zatoichi of Honda's.
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03-06-2009, 03:56 AM | #140 |
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Had a 2000 Civic Si...matter of fact here's some pics:
Car looked like this when i got it(Mostly Stock) needed tons of work: And here's after: Had a bunch of leftover parts that i just got lazy about... After getting rid of the indiglo gauges and some tacky ass shit the original owner had on it i just got bored with it. I got the car for $500 cause the guy had a 350z and he didn't wanna pay insurance for a car he didn't drive nor want anymore. So he sold it to me and i flipped it for $5600 after i did all the work to it. Although i do miss the incredible gas mileage i was getting... I was gonna keep it and turbo it, but then when i saw the price to get the kit and have a shop do it i was like fuck that i'll just buy a 240... |
03-06-2009, 04:13 AM | #142 | ||||||
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Better bushings |
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03-06-2009, 04:50 AM | #143 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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We shall see. I'll probably end up keeping that car till the day I die just to spite it. Maybe I will just pick up a eg shell and put a really cheap v8 in it.
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03-06-2009, 08:25 AM | #144 | |
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like i said before, previous to me purchasing this car, i was putting it together for my friend who had a bit more money than knowledge, (i spent a lot of time installing a bunch of speakers, subwoofer and cute little accesories), so if anything on this car does not make sense to you give me the benefit of the doubt. engine: japanese D15B. exterior: Ek4 sir bumpers carbon fiber hood suspension: H&R coilovers with ground control top hats and 10k springs up front and some trash ass progressive rate springs in the rear. polyurethane bushings everywhere. omni power LCAs. Neuspeed rear sway bar. ASR subframe brace. integra GSR brakes with not so awesome pads. braided SS brake lines. ARP extended studs. blox lug nuts EM C pillar bar. NRG tringular front strut tower brace. NRG under car front sub frame brace. 15x7 +35 RPF1s with 205/50/15 RT615. 15x6.5 +40 rotas with 205/50/15 RT615. i think thats about it. |
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03-06-2009, 09:14 AM | #145 |
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i had a Honda once too bought it only to take profit out of it i made double the money from what i paid for it it only needed a new timing belt instead of a "new engine" as the seller advised =]
the car dint turn for shit the H22 engine was way to heavy but boy did it go in a straight line!
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03-06-2009, 11:01 AM | #148 | |
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Car sounds good... Make your next purchase a B16A with JDM LSD tranny. |
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03-06-2009, 11:51 AM | #149 |
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B16?? at least go for the B18C. B16 have no torque. mildly built B18C with a b16 LSd tranny is what i would get.
i had a B18C it was kinda built B18C block LS rods LS crank ITR pistons Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams HKS cam gears port flow valvetrain skunk 2 intake manifold ITR exhaust manifold 5 zigen miracle fireball exhaust ported TB |
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