bc.

He had a s14sr before this motor and he was very good with it, but there really is no way to make this kind of power with this reliability in an sr.

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* S14SR22 * 9.0 c/r * GT3071R *

snoops14

What technique did you use to pull the rear out and back to normal like that? car looks great btw and sounds even better!

driftwhat

Looks good man, nice to see it being put to work!! Check out my build sometime "Koukimonster" Similar 1j build in a 98 s14

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Sforteen

i would say you could do 400 reliable in an SR...

More in an RB25/26

seems like a fairly large turbo to drift with... why not use a smaller turbo like a 30R or something?

aled

My hands.
I'm not even kidding. That sheet metal is so thin, I literally pulled it out. To get the tail-light aligned better, however, I did attach a come-along to my Excursion and pulled more xD.
Building a SR was my other option. I looked into VE heads, etc etc. My previous S14 SR ran AWESOME. 11lbs of boost, a bunch of cooling mods, and it was very reliable. So, I wanted more power...JZ offered such in relatively stock form.

I'll lay this out for you based on my logic as to why I chose the JZ over the other Nissan engines.

JZ Engine:
- OEM Forged bottom End
- R154 <- this is a huge one. Anyone who has modified an SR past 400 horsepower is most likely familiar or will be familiar with a failed transmission. Sure, there are the Z32/Z33 options, if that's your fancy.
- Non-Interference engine
I mean you can increase valve clearances to almost 9.5mm before it becomes interference.

Cons:
- Parts are somewhat expensive. I spent a lot of my budget of swapping the fuel lines to the driver side as well as AEM EMS stuff. However, had I wanted more power out of say, an RB, fuel system modifications and ECU modifications would have been necessary.

Now, on a much more rudimentary level let's compare the swaps. In this case the RB to JZ.

Mounts: both require the use of aftermarket mounts and cost very similar
Wiring: both require the re-wiring of the M63 plug for the S-Chassis. Whether wiring is your fancy and you re-pin everything yourself or pay for a new harness, the price/time constraint is relatively similar.
Driveshaft: You will need a custom driveshaft for both swaps.
Import Cost: Each motor costs NEARLY the same. Paid about $2,500 for mine with engine/trans/mounts/freight to my door.

Where the difference lies deals with custom fabrication work. JZ dumps exhaust on the opposite side. So, yes, I had to have a custom exhaust made. In regards to intercooler piping, I once again went the custom route adding to the expense. Each aspect could have been simplified to cut costs or made custom for each application (JZ or RB).

To me, the costs seemed relatively similar. Except with the JZ, I attained all the 'Pros' as aforementioned.

Lastly, I'm sure some people are against such because they are Nissan purists, what have you.

project_silvia

great job on the build

ManoNegra

maybe i didn't catch it
what final drive are you running?
nice build btw

aled

Thank you.
S13 Differential.

So, 4.08? That sounds about right.

aled

Looking for some input/suggestions.

Went to an event in late October out in Utah, where I go to school. Motor ran great for about 8 runs, then during a tandem run, the engine just shut off all together. I'd imagine the AEM had something to do with this.

I pull into the pits and re start the engine to idle speed. There is a slight ticking noise coming from the back of the engine. I assume this is valvetrain related at this point. There is proper oil level, no leaks, and not a significant knocking noise.

A few weeks ago, I start with a few diagnosis.

(1) engine started cold, no exhaust leaks.
(2) individually unplug each injector.
Thought being, saying cylinder 1 is unplugged, therefore it is not firing. However the valves above the cylinder as still functioning mechanically from the other 5 cylinders. Should the ticking noise volume stay the same, one can assume there is not rod bearing clearance issues on that cylinder. Should the ticking noise quiet in volume, that cylinder can be seen as the culprit.
- I notice almost no change in volume
(3) remove valve covers, no wear on the cams, oil pump has not failed

From this point, I assume the cams need to be re-shimmed, I will not assume so until I remove the oil pan and inspect.

Last evening, I finally pull the oil pan.

The start.

After I ran my finger through the oil pan X__X

#1 Rod Cap removed.

Oil pickup littered with shavings.

View of the oil pan.

All of the bad news in one picture...

Best to say, I caught an EARLY rod bearing failure. Sure, it sucks, but there's nothing I can do about it now.

Looking for some input here.

Since I caught this early.
(1) Rebuild the 1JZ
I'd imagine I can get away with a crank polish/balance, block hone, and new bearings.

This seems the most economical. However, while in the engine I'd upgrade a few parts as well, so that would factor into the price.
- ARP Main/Rod/Head Studs
- OEM Toyota Headgasket
- OEM Toyota Oil Pump
At a minimum, depending on wear, I'd look into replacing the pistons/rings as well.

(2) 2JZ Bottom End, 1.5JZ
- Used, I can buy a 2JZGTE Longblock.
- Replace headgasket/head studs, mount my 1JZ head to this.
- Cost: $1,800 for longblock
- New Short block: $2,300

Keep in mind I can re-cooperate some funds selling the 2J Turbochargers/Intake manifold/Head.

Does anyone on here have any experience with a 1.5JZ engine? Seems like the quickest way to have the car running again. Displacement will be bumped to 3 liters.

IIIXziuR

I vote 1.5JZ if you are going to play around with the bottom end.
(And can swing it).

Cool Set-up, man.

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BigPawr

Why not a 2JZGE block, with either a set of used GTE rods and pistons, or aftermarket set? Then TT headgasket and ARP stuff if you wish.

bc.

I vote 1.5jz as well.

sucks you got rod knock man, I did the same thing to my SR on the first run in Kansas a few weeks ago so i know how you feel...

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* S14SR22 * 9.0 c/r * GT3071R *

turtle m3th

I'd also put my money towards a 2jzge block. They're cheap as hell, are also forged, and the only real difference between the turbo motor is oil squirters and piston design. You can find these all day for about $300-$400!

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sexcii-zenki

great build!

jdm2191

Damn 20 year old or so 1JZ & it finally took a shit, thats good in my book

But really interested in whats too come in you JZ

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My Build: The "Coupe De Ville" 1JZ Build!!

aled

Exactly!
I mean, it was a used engine and who knows what it went through prior to my use.

I have decided on a 2JZGTE Longblock purchase. I will then transfer all of the front assembly parts that can be transferred.

- OEM Toyota HeadGasket
- ARP Head Studs
- New Intake/Exhaust Valve Seals
- OEM Toyota Oil Pump
- HKS DLI Ignition System
- Fuel Surge Tank
- 100 Octane Tune

I will either make a new thread or update this one; take everyone through a 1.5JZ conversion for future reference and ideas.

Engine out over Christmas Break.
Updates soon!

TMY_DUB

I am just finishing building a 1.5jz for my S14. I used an all stock 2jzge block.
I had the block rehoned, with all new clevite bearings.
Im running an all stock 1j head, ARP headstuds, oem 1j head gasket and all the other necessary parts to put the two together.


My engine isnt actually in the car running yet, it will be very soon.

But Ive been talking to the guy who built this 1.5 for alot of info.

SERIALNINE cressida 1.5JZ/Getrag/HKS/19's/etc.

sash_ak21

Great thread, very informative. I got a stock kouki recently and have been debating replacing the KA with a 1JZ. Seems like quite a bit of work although im sure the end result makes it all worth it.

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sash_ak21

What kinda spring rates are you running to compensate for the extra weight?

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driftwhat

Good choice on the 2j block if my block shits the bed with my new turbo set up i will be doing the same.

Shouldnt have a problem running the stock internals with the 2j there capable if handleing 600 hp, ive heard of some running 800 but I could only guess for how long and depends on the abuse...

Cant wait to see pics!!

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1on1

I know it's been almost a year for this blog but are there any updates on your build?

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turtle m3th

^ update here jive turkey! http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...s14-build.html

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kalypso123

Ive heard of Japanese tuners building 1.5J's on purpose cause the 1j head flows better.

tygaty

how did you wire the KA lower harness to the 1j?

HanzdeFuko

What front mount inter cooler is that?