My S13 Build Progress - 56K Warning - Page 3 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

BlazedGlory · 03-18-2007, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JewGal

Phew!
For a second, I thought your were painting your bay flat/satin black. Looks good. Red s hot!

Heh, I was actually excited for a second when I thought your bay was satin black. It looked very nice imo. I have a white car, and although a very clean, white engine bay would look very nice, it does not stay that way. I plan on painting my stripped interior satin black as well as the engine bay (I think) when I get a chance... Not that it doesn't look nice. Keep up the good work!

SC_S13 · 03-18-2007, 10:40 PM

nice engine bay work, imperfections wont be noticeable when your sweet SR is in

big props for DIY.

ROTTEN EGG · 03-19-2007, 01:13 AM

so what did you do about the rusty battery tray?

jrmiller84 · 03-19-2007, 05:57 AM

Thanks everyone!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROTTEN EGG

so what did you do about the rusty battery tray?

I started to try to drill it out but it turns out drills pull more power than my little inverter can handle

So I just used sand paper to get all of the nasty corrosion out and it turned out not so bad. Would have been nice to have it as smooth as the other parts of the car, but that's alright.

It will be hard to notice when the intercooler piping is running through it and the fuse box is back in place.

240trainee · 03-19-2007, 06:56 AM

Looks good man, I would have gone black (I hate red cars), but looks like you have given yourself a good base to start with.

jrmiller84 · 03-19-2007, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240trainee

Looks good man, I would have gone black (I hate red cars), but looks like you have given yourself a good base to start with.

Yeah, I used to feel the same way about red cars. Since it was red when I got it I wanted to keep it that way.

If you give it a nice candyapple-esque paint job they can look really nice.

I don't want it that dark of a red though.

Gavster · 03-19-2007, 07:50 AM

Looking good man, keep up the good work, and props on a clean project so far!

Gilboyto · 03-19-2007, 07:54 AM

^^^What he said! I wonder how much a storage space costs here to do work on my car.

jrmiller84 · 03-19-2007, 07:28 PM

Day 10 [Back to index]

I am working towards a semi-detailed guide with pictures to assist people in wiring harness modification but it may take me a little while. Look what the douche-bags before me left...

I will get this done tonight... those fucks...

There are at least 10 half-assed electrical tape connections there...

Check back in an hour or so.

jrmiller84 · 03-19-2007, 08:02 PM

Day 10 - Continued [Back to index]

So it didn't take me very long to realize that it was a hopeless cause to attempt a repair of these wires. I don't even trust that they're hooked up right to begin with. I'll be giving Enjuku a call to see if I can get another harness or something.

It's a wonder this car was even running to begin with...

Random wires are split into multiple other wires that are then bridged to other wires and joined with even more wires. It's a clusterfuck to say the least. I refuse to believe this is how Nissan intended this to be.

WTF?

95zilvia · 03-19-2007, 08:33 PM

Buy a new harness.
The motorset didn't come with a harness?

sepulchral · 03-19-2007, 08:34 PM

you shoudl have fixed it permenantly +1 for solder ($3.00 for iron at walmart)

jrmiller84 · 03-19-2007, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sepulchral

you shoudl have fixed it permenantly +1 for solder ($3.00 for iron at walmart)

What are you talking about? That's what I was doing to it.

I was trying to fix the previous owners mistakes but it looks unrepairable. I was using solder, liquid electrical tape, and shrink wrap to fix all of the crap they did(the electrical tape that you see in the picture). But then I came across all of the wires in the picture and realized it was probably never going to run no matter what I did.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95zilvia

Buy a new harness.
The motorset didn't come with a harness?

I did get a harness with the motorset and this is it. Apparently the previous owner was a tard and screwed it up.

I'll hopefully be sending it back for another harness.

Zero-Offset · 03-19-2007, 08:41 PM

good lookin work you got going there!!

i would have kept the engine bay black, but other than that, cant wait to see the blacktop in there!

95zilvia · 03-19-2007, 08:57 PM

It shouldn't be tooooo hard to figure out the mess.
Just be sure to keep it neat.
Solder and heat shrink.

You're gonna have to swap out that little plug as well.

jrmiller84 · 03-19-2007, 09:26 PM

Well the thing is I can't even decipher which connections are the factory connections so that I can reconnect them correctly. I could take pictures and post them here to get peoples opinions but that would be hell to explain to people.

atutt · 03-20-2007, 03:44 PM

this thread kicks ass... it'll be a really good build thread once it's completed...

jrmiller84 · 03-20-2007, 09:15 PM

Day 11 [Back to index]

I talked to Ray at Enjuku today about the wiring harness. I'm sending him this picture that I'm posting to you guys.

I started to try to describe in words how the wires are "organized" but I soon realized that it was close to impossible to describe. Then I started to draw a schematic of sorts of how they were organized but I quickly became confused as multiple wires split into others wires which then combined into other trees of wires... it's rediculous. So what I decided to do was seperate the bad wires from the ones that have not been touched, label the "junctions" or connection points, and see if anyone has any advice or can decipher them on here. Here are some things to note about the picture:

The wires all start as either black or gray and they come in three sizes (I can't estimate a gauge wire so we'll just say thick, medium, and thin).
Junction 3 has a thick black wire that shoots off to the right and connects to junction 5, along with 3 other wires from other junctions
Junction 5 has 4 different wires coming from 4 different places
If a wire in question is not shown here, it is fine. I put that binder inbetween the bad wires and good ones as to seperate them.

I also looked through the FSM today to see if there was any wire guide that would help, but no dice. There were some things that were close but nothing dealing in wire colors and whatnot.

If you guys can make anything of this, it would be awesome. I'm constantly researching it as we speak. Also, like I said, I'm sending this to Enjuku tomorrow so we'll see what they say in conjunction with what you guys think and see if we can as a group get this resolved. It very well may be that the wires are perfectly fine, but how can you trust something that psychotic looking and unorganized? Especially when the junctions were covered ONLY in electrical tape.

Thanks for everyones help and motivation so far!

ROTTEN EGG · 03-20-2007, 09:54 PM

whats enjuku saying about a replacement harness?

jrmiller84 · 03-20-2007, 10:02 PM

Nothing so far, I will ask for one if I can't get some kind of resolution for the wiring from them.

They run for $400 and that's a hell of a price to pay for something that's not your fault. Not to mention I still have other parts to purchase to get this thing working and it would suck to have this be the final piece.

ROTTEN EGG · 03-20-2007, 10:08 PM

they should give you a replacement. it would be stupid not to considering you are a returning customer. I bought a sr harness from a local shop and didnt inspect it enough, somewhat similar problem and they said i tampered with it and didnt give me anything. Watch out for that.

jrmiller84 · 03-20-2007, 10:18 PM

Yeah, I stopped as soon as I realized that it was like that. Wish I would have earlier or I wouldn't have touched anything. We'll see what happens.

luckyslide16 · 03-20-2007, 10:30 PM

This thread is FTW! Keep us updated!

ROTTEN EGG · 03-20-2007, 10:46 PM

even if they say that you tampered with it, there isnt a reason you would do that anyway. Now you have to change your avatar to a blacktop. Good luck!

jrmiller84 · 03-20-2007, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROTTEN EGG

even if they say that you tampered with it, there isnt a reason you would do that anyway. Now you have to change your avatar to a blacktop. Good luck!

They all seemed to be nice guys so I don't see why it would be that big of a deal.

Avatar done

BlazedGlory · 03-21-2007, 05:26 PM

I agree that they should... I ordered a FMIC kit from them a while back that was represented as coming with nice silicone elbows. The kit came with some shotty cast elbows instead, and Enjuku wouldn't even make that small issue right with me. It was enough to lose me as a customer (and I used to buy pretty much everything from them, for I live in GA, so ground shipping would get here quick =)...

Good Luck...

jrmiller84 · 03-21-2007, 08:55 PM

Day 12 [Back to index]

Since I'm pretty much just waiting on parts now, I'm running out of things to do. One thing I hadn't done yet was install the Walbro Fuel Pump.

I've read threads of people who think they can install the SR without upgrading the fuel pump. I'm sure you probably can if you want a shitty install that won't allow any upgrades. If you're doing the swap, fork over the $100 and do it for shits sakes and save yourself some trouble.

Since this was a fairly easy install I decided to take pictures in the process for anyone who needs help. Let's do this.

First thing to do is remove the small gray piece of metal that covers the plug for the fuel pump. A phillips head screw driver does the trick here. After that disconnect the plug that connects to the pump. Should look like this.

Using a 10mm socket, remove the large gray metal cover that is right next to the one we just took off. This will reveal another metal cover that is directly on top of the fuel tank. Disconnect the two fuel lines that are connected to the cover but REMEMBER HOW THEY ARE CONNECTED! If you don't, you will be reversing the flow of the fuel if you hook them up incorrectly.

After that is done, using an 8mm socket remove the bolts that hold down that metal plate. This is it after the bolts have been removed.

Then pull the plate straight up, do not pull it out at an angle. The fuel level sensor sticks out as well as the sock on the fuel pump and they will get caught if they don't come up straight. Here it is removed from the fuel tank.

After that I covered up the hole to the fuel tank so that nothing would fall in. Look at how dirty that sock is, wonder when it was last changed?

You are now ready to take the fuel pump off of the fixture that hangs into the tank. I twisted the pump and it came right off. Then remove the two wires that are connected to the pump as well as the fuel line that connects to the top of the pump. Here is the fixture with the pump removed.

Open that beautiful new pump and install the sock and rubber boot that goes on top of that.

Put the new fuel line onto the pump fixture and slide the new clamps onto it while your at it. The line may need to be cut since it's pretty long. I just pushed it up further so that there was no chance of it coming off, ever. You'll notice that the rubber boot on the bottom of the fuel pump fits perfectly with the pump fixtures bottom. Put the pump on the fixture, it should fit perfectly and attach the fuel line to the top of the pump and tighten down the clamps. Should look like this now:

Next thing to do is take care of the wires. I'm not sure if my situation is the same as everyone else's as I already had crimped connections that could be someone else's work but it should be very similar at least.

I noticed that my wires had a bad section in them where it looked like the shielding was coming off. Luckily, the new pump's wires were nice and long so I trimmed the old wires on the fixture slightly past that bad section. I then trimmed the new pumps wires so that there wouldn't be a bunch of excess wiring hanging in the tank. Here it is with the connections completed.

One thing I always noticed about my car was that when I put gas in it the smell of gas would be almost overwhelming. When I was taking the pump out I noticed a rubber gasket that circled the hole to the tank to seal it. Only problem was that the gasket was slightly too big for the groove it was made to fit in. I also noticed that because of that, it had a kink in it where it had been pushed down to try to make itself fit, creating a small gap in the seal. I decided to attempt to fix this with some liquid gasket. I circled the hole to the fuel tank with liquid gasket making sure to go in front of the holes where the bolts go so as to make a perfect seal. Just wanted to mention this in case someone else is having the same problem. We'll see if this actually fixes it when I get the car running.

Next thing to do is put the 8mm bolts back in once the pump is submerged in the tank. Then you can recover it with the metal cover we took off earlier. Use the 10mm bolts to secure it back to the car. Now reconnect the plug and put the cover back over the plug using a phillips head screwed driver to secure the two screws. Done!

Of course you could just read the directions.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

In other news, I also switched the speedo sensor in the SR Tranny today. The SR speedo was missing the connector on the wire and was badly damaged. Look at how bad it is cracked.

Luckily, we have to use the KA sensor anyways. Here is the KA sensor since I had a hard time finding a picture of it online, hopefully this will help someone.

It's a direct swap. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the one bolt and it comes right out. Now the tranny is good to go as soon as I get my new flywheel and clutch.

This may be the last update for a while since I don't have anything else to do in the mean time. From now on the days will be organized as work days so as to keep the days organized.

Hopefully I can get back to work on the harness soon.

wannabe_drifter · 03-21-2007, 09:08 PM

Good work, looking at this makes me want to do the same to my car... hopefully this spring !!

staygold24 · 03-21-2007, 09:41 PM

Nice work. Yay for another good well done 240 in georgia. Havent seen many.

Good write ups as well. My hose to my iacv is kind of crimped should I make it flow better it doesnt affect my idle at all. Just a little bent.

jrmiller84 · 03-21-2007, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by staygold24

Nice work. Yay for another good well done 240 in georgia. Havent seen many.

Close, I'm actually in Florida. Gator country

Quote:

Originally Posted by staygold24

Good write ups as well. My hose to my iacv is kind of crimped should I make it flow better it doesnt affect my idle at all. Just a little bent.

Thanks! Well, better flow will always naturally be better but I suppose it depends on how nit-picky you are since it's not particularly affecting performance.

03-18-2007, 10:40 PM	#62
SC_S13 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Santa Cruz Posts: 936 Trader Rating: (15) Feedback Score: 15 reviews	nice engine bay work, imperfections wont be noticeable when your sweet SR is in big props for DIY. __________________

03-19-2007, 06:56 AM	#65
240trainee Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Richmond, VA Age: 34 Posts: 3,861 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Looks good man, I would have gone black (I hate red cars), but looks like you have given yourself a good base to start with. __________________ Team Pterodactyl SHARK ATTACK!!! LookoutDrift

03-19-2007, 07:28 PM	#69
jrmiller84 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Gainesville, FL Age: 36 Posts: 1,021 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: jrmiller84 Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Day 10 [Back to index] I am working towards a semi-detailed guide with pictures to assist people in wiring harness modification but it may take me a little while. Look what the douche-bags before me left... I will get this done tonight... those fucks... There are at least 10 half-assed electrical tape connections there... Check back in an hour or so. __________________ BitDestroyer.com

03-19-2007, 08:02 PM	#70
jrmiller84 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Gainesville, FL Age: 36 Posts: 1,021 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: jrmiller84 Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Day 10 - Continued [Back to index] So it didn't take me very long to realize that it was a hopeless cause to attempt a repair of these wires. I don't even trust that they're hooked up right to begin with. I'll be giving Enjuku a call to see if I can get another harness or something. It's a wonder this car was even running to begin with... Random wires are split into multiple other wires that are then bridged to other wires and joined with even more wires. It's a clusterfuck to say the least. I refuse to believe this is how Nissan intended this to be. WTF? __________________ BitDestroyer.com

03-19-2007, 09:26 PM	#76
jrmiller84 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Gainesville, FL Age: 36 Posts: 1,021 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: jrmiller84 Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Well the thing is I can't even decipher which connections are the factory connections so that I can reconnect them correctly. I could take pictures and post them here to get peoples opinions but that would be hell to explain to people. __________________ BitDestroyer.com

03-19-2007, 01:13 AM	#63
ROTTEN EGG Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: SF Bay Posts: 110 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	so what did you do about the rusty battery tray?

03-19-2007, 07:50 AM	#67
Gavster Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Charleston, SC Age: 35 Posts: 512 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Looking good man, keep up the good work, and props on a clean project so far!

03-19-2007, 07:54 AM	#68
Gilboyto Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Europe Posts: 190 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	^^^What he said! I wonder how much a storage space costs here to do work on my car.

03-19-2007, 08:33 PM	#71
95zilvia Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: South San Francisco Age: 37 Posts: 1,860 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: 95zilvia Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Buy a new harness. The motorset didn't come with a harness?

03-19-2007, 08:34 PM	#72
sepulchral BANNED Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Midlothian. VA Posts: 2,050 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	you shoudl have fixed it permenantly +1 for solder ($3.00 for iron at walmart)

03-19-2007, 08:41 PM	#74
Zero-Offset Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Vancouver BC Age: 30 Posts: 402 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	good lookin work you got going there!! i would have kept the engine bay black, but other than that, cant wait to see the blacktop in there!

03-19-2007, 08:57 PM	#75
95zilvia Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: South San Francisco Age: 37 Posts: 1,860 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: 95zilvia Feedback Score: 0 reviews	It shouldn't be tooooo hard to figure out the mess. Just be sure to keep it neat. Solder and heat shrink. You're gonna have to swap out that little plug as well.

03-20-2007, 03:44 PM	#77
atutt Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: barrie, ontario, canada Age: 35 Posts: 997 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	this thread kicks ass... it'll be a really good build thread once it's completed...

03-20-2007, 09:15 PM	#78
jrmiller84 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Gainesville, FL Age: 36 Posts: 1,021 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: jrmiller84 Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Clusterfuck Day 11 [Back to index] I talked to Ray at Enjuku today about the wiring harness. I'm sending him this picture that I'm posting to you guys. I started to try to describe in words how the wires are "organized" but I soon realized that it was close to impossible to describe. Then I started to draw a schematic of sorts of how they were organized but I quickly became confused as multiple wires split into others wires which then combined into other trees of wires... it's rediculous. So what I decided to do was seperate the bad wires from the ones that have not been touched, label the "junctions" or connection points, and see if anyone has any advice or can decipher them on here. Here are some things to note about the picture: The wires all start as either black or gray and they come in three sizes (I can't estimate a gauge wire so we'll just say thick, medium, and thin). Junction 3 has a thick black wire that shoots off to the right and connects to junction 5, along with 3 other wires from other junctions Junction 5 has 4 different wires coming from 4 different places If a wire in question is not shown here, it is fine. I put that binder inbetween the bad wires and good ones as to seperate them. I also looked through the FSM today to see if there was any wire guide that would help, but no dice. There were some things that were close but nothing dealing in wire colors and whatnot. If you guys can make anything of this, it would be awesome. I'm constantly researching it as we speak. Also, like I said, I'm sending this to Enjuku tomorrow so we'll see what they say in conjunction with what you guys think and see if we can as a group get this resolved. It very well may be that the wires are perfectly fine, but how can you trust something that psychotic looking and unorganized? Especially when the junctions were covered ONLY in electrical tape. Thanks for everyones help and motivation so far! __________________ BitDestroyer.com

03-20-2007, 09:54 PM	#79
ROTTEN EGG Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: SF Bay Posts: 110 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	whats enjuku saying about a replacement harness?

03-20-2007, 10:02 PM	#80
jrmiller84 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Gainesville, FL Age: 36 Posts: 1,021 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: jrmiller84 Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Nothing so far, I will ask for one if I can't get some kind of resolution for the wiring from them. They run for $400 and that's a hell of a price to pay for something that's not your fault. Not to mention I still have other parts to purchase to get this thing working and it would suck to have this be the final piece. __________________ BitDestroyer.com

03-20-2007, 10:08 PM	#81
ROTTEN EGG Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: SF Bay Posts: 110 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	they should give you a replacement. it would be stupid not to considering you are a returning customer. I bought a sr harness from a local shop and didnt inspect it enough, somewhat similar problem and they said i tampered with it and didnt give me anything. Watch out for that.

03-20-2007, 10:18 PM	#82
jrmiller84 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Gainesville, FL Age: 36 Posts: 1,021 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: jrmiller84 Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Yeah, I stopped as soon as I realized that it was like that. Wish I would have earlier or I wouldn't have touched anything. We'll see what happens. __________________ BitDestroyer.com

03-20-2007, 10:30 PM	#83
luckyslide16 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Long Island, NY Age: 39 Posts: 289 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	This thread is FTW! Keep us updated! __________________ *Back Like Doc Brown...*

03-20-2007, 10:46 PM	#84
ROTTEN EGG Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: SF Bay Posts: 110 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	even if they say that you tampered with it, there isnt a reason you would do that anyway. Now you have to change your avatar to a blacktop. Good luck!

03-21-2007, 05:26 PM	#86
BlazedGlory Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Canton, GA Posts: 370 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I agree that they should... I ordered a FMIC kit from them a while back that was represented as coming with nice silicone elbows. The kit came with some shotty cast elbows instead, and Enjuku wouldn't even make that small issue right with me. It was enough to lose me as a customer (and I used to buy pretty much everything from them, for I live in GA, so ground shipping would get here quick =)... Good Luck...

03-21-2007, 08:55 PM	#87
jrmiller84 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Gainesville, FL Age: 36 Posts: 1,021 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: jrmiller84 Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Walbro 255 ltr/hr Fuel Pump Install Day 12 [Back to index] Since I'm pretty much just waiting on parts now, I'm running out of things to do. One thing I hadn't done yet was install the Walbro Fuel Pump. I've read threads of people who think they can install the SR without upgrading the fuel pump. I'm sure you probably can if you want a shitty install that won't allow any upgrades. If you're doing the swap, fork over the $100 and do it for shits sakes and save yourself some trouble. Since this was a fairly easy install I decided to take pictures in the process for anyone who needs help. Let's do this. First thing to do is remove the small gray piece of metal that covers the plug for the fuel pump. A phillips head screw driver does the trick here. After that disconnect the plug that connects to the pump. Should look like this. Using a 10mm socket, remove the large gray metal cover that is right next to the one we just took off. This will reveal another metal cover that is directly on top of the fuel tank. Disconnect the two fuel lines that are connected to the cover but REMEMBER HOW THEY ARE CONNECTED! If you don't, you will be reversing the flow of the fuel if you hook them up incorrectly. After that is done, using an 8mm socket remove the bolts that hold down that metal plate. This is it after the bolts have been removed. Then pull the plate straight up, do not pull it out at an angle. The fuel level sensor sticks out as well as the sock on the fuel pump and they will get caught if they don't come up straight. Here it is removed from the fuel tank. After that I covered up the hole to the fuel tank so that nothing would fall in. Look at how dirty that sock is, wonder when it was last changed? You are now ready to take the fuel pump off of the fixture that hangs into the tank. I twisted the pump and it came right off. Then remove the two wires that are connected to the pump as well as the fuel line that connects to the top of the pump. Here is the fixture with the pump removed. Open that beautiful new pump and install the sock and rubber boot that goes on top of that. Put the new fuel line onto the pump fixture and slide the new clamps onto it while your at it. The line may need to be cut since it's pretty long. I just pushed it up further so that there was no chance of it coming off, ever. You'll notice that the rubber boot on the bottom of the fuel pump fits perfectly with the pump fixtures bottom. Put the pump on the fixture, it should fit perfectly and attach the fuel line to the top of the pump and tighten down the clamps. Should look like this now: Next thing to do is take care of the wires. I'm not sure if my situation is the same as everyone else's as I already had crimped connections that could be someone else's work but it should be very similar at least. I noticed that my wires had a bad section in them where it looked like the shielding was coming off. Luckily, the new pump's wires were nice and long so I trimmed the old wires on the fixture slightly past that bad section. I then trimmed the new pumps wires so that there wouldn't be a bunch of excess wiring hanging in the tank. Here it is with the connections completed. One thing I always noticed about my car was that when I put gas in it the smell of gas would be almost overwhelming. When I was taking the pump out I noticed a rubber gasket that circled the hole to the tank to seal it. Only problem was that the gasket was slightly too big for the groove it was made to fit in. I also noticed that because of that, it had a kink in it where it had been pushed down to try to make itself fit, creating a small gap in the seal. I decided to attempt to fix this with some liquid gasket. I circled the hole to the fuel tank with liquid gasket making sure to go in front of the holes where the bolts go so as to make a perfect seal. Just wanted to mention this in case someone else is having the same problem. We'll see if this actually fixes it when I get the car running. Next thing to do is put the 8mm bolts back in once the pump is submerged in the tank. Then you can recover it with the metal cover we took off earlier. Use the 10mm bolts to secure it back to the car. Now reconnect the plug and put the cover back over the plug using a phillips head screwed driver to secure the two screws. Done! Of course you could just read the directions. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- In other news, I also switched the speedo sensor in the SR Tranny today. The SR speedo was missing the connector on the wire and was badly damaged. Look at how bad it is cracked. Luckily, we have to use the KA sensor anyways. Here is the KA sensor since I had a hard time finding a picture of it online, hopefully this will help someone. It's a direct swap. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the one bolt and it comes right out. Now the tranny is good to go as soon as I get my new flywheel and clutch. This may be the last update for a while since I don't have anything else to do in the mean time. From now on the days will be organized as work days so as to keep the days organized. Hopefully I can get back to work on the harness soon. __________________ BitDestroyer.com

03-21-2007, 09:08 PM	#88
wannabe_drifter Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Québec, Canada Age: 37 Posts: 245 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Good work, looking at this makes me want to do the same to my car... hopefully this spring !!

03-21-2007, 09:41 PM	#89
staygold24 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: St. Simons Ga Posts: 673 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Nice work. Yay for another good well done 240 in georgia. Havent seen many. Good write ups as well. My hose to my iacv is kind of crimped should I make it flow better it doesnt affect my idle at all. Just a little bent.

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