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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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Seriously, First start up and its knocking?
I just got my s14 sr20det Kouki in the mail last week and upon first start up, there is a loud knocking sound coming from the engine. I can’t tell if it’s coming from the head or the block, so I’ve made a short video on youtube so all of you guys can see/listen to it. I Have a thirty day warranty on this engine…..so the quicker I can figure out what’s wrong and either fix it, or send it back will be greatly appreciated. Tell me anything….I’m desperate here. I feel like I got ripped off…… L
YouTube - ‪s14 Kouki sr20det loud knocking‬‎ Thanks; Marcus |
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#2 |
It's Always Broken.
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
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Doesnt really sound like rod knock...sounds like the head.
this is rod knock YouTube - ‪Rod knock‬‎ Loose timing chain? check the rocker arms? |
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#3 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
Marcus |
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#5 |
Leaky Injector
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[QUOTE=StryfeS13;3583072]I'm not sure.
But it does not sound like a rod. Get a stethoscope and start listening around the engine...[QUOTE] Looks like I'm gonna have to. I think this is garbage.....I buy a motor and rite off the bat i have to go inside and work on it. Never buy a motor from jdm_planet. |
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#6 |
BANNED
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def not a rod knock. seems to be could be a loose timing chain because, referring from video, its from front of the engine. Could be that, or sticking lifter. Maybe do a tune-up and add LUCAS oil stabilizer, or MARVEL OIL. You can get those at autozone, used it on my N/A SR and it slightly got quiter.
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#7 |
It's Always Broken.
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
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You know what...I had a similar sound on my KA once. Turned out to be a loose flywheel. It's a longshot, but at idle, hold in the clutch and see if it stops.
good luck |
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#15 |
Leaky Injector
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#16 |
AFC #1
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If it went away I would say VTC. Goes away when VTC engages off idle.
A slight decrease sounds like timing change related. Chain is rattling on something. Gets a little better when tension increases.
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#17 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
http://i.imgur.com/dfdIx.jpg |
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#19 |
Post Whore!
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sounds like the HLA's have air in them.
Bleed the lifters
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#21 |
Post Whore!
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thought those were scratches on the oil pan
Like S14 said might be valve guides Its not from the bearings If it was bearings you would see brass shavings in the oil pan Pull the front cover and check it out
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![]() 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
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#22 |
Leaky Injector
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What would you do? Fix the motor (guides, valves, etc..) or just send it back? How much do you think all that would cost me to fix?
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#23 |
Zilvia Junkie
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easy fix dude. Call the guy you got it from and get a new motor. Dont deal with a motor that has problems from the get go. Remember that we are buying used engines from unknown sources. sometimes you can get a bad engine. I wouldnt automatically fault a company for something like this. Call them up and see what they have to say. I have gotten motors from a dude in canada and we had a bad HG from the get go and he sent us a whole new engine and let us keep the bad one. Give those guys a chance.
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#25 | |
Leaky Injector
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#26 |
Post Whore!
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Id contact the Engine importer and let him know whats up.
Id ask if I could try to ID the problem by tearing the engine apart. And if its pretty bad then id put it back together and send it back? EDIT: damn should have refreshed before posting
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![]() 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
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#27 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Well it sounds like you have no clue as to what the problem could be and this might be getting the engine supplier a little frustrated. As a small business owner my self the first priority should be to satisfy the customer. He im sure will be willing to make thing right for you as long as you can tell him what is up with the engine. i would take it to a place and have it officially diagnosed and go from here. It will save you time and money. Your 30 days are already coming to an end. A rod knock is very evident and you will have tons of metal shaving in your oil pan. Your oil will basically look like metallic paint. A lifter that needs to be bleed could also sound like this. In about 3 hours you can take the cams out and bleed the lifters. it will save you time from ripping the engine out and frustration on sending it back.
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#28 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
You are going to have to pull the motor. Then pull the head off then the front cover to see whats broken and whats worn. Timing chain kit alone is $400. If you need all the guides too that's another $200....
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#29 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
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haha thats what I meant, I dont know why i said valve
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![]() 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
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#30 |
Nissanaholic!
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SEND THAT SHIT BACK!!!!!!!!! or if you want you could also diagnose the problem, fix it, and then you gain knowledge! =)
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