GoodyMonster

Just came into a small sum of money and want to do some machine work to my stock ka24de.This is my first car project and want to do it right, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I want to push between 15, and 20 lbs. of boost. What size overbore should i do? What other things do I need to do to make sure this thing runs right? I’m looking for a decently fast car that’s very reliable.

airman

The better question is what size oversize bore you NEED to do...

0.020" is plenty unless your cylinder walls are in horrifying condition. 0.020" over would be fine just to get rid of possible ring ridges if its a high mileage motor.

If you have no ridge and your bore is okay you can get away with a good hone.

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RIP S13 KA-T HX35 419whp

GoodyMonster

Thanks you would be surprised with how stingy people are with info around here.
I know i need to: change pistons (of corse)
new camshaft
(should get) new wireing harness.
any more important things im forgetting? and this s13 has been sitting up for a whyle, any preventative mantenance i should be looking into?

GoodyMonster

Ok went to the engine shop and was given some options. If my max amount of boost is going to be 18 lbs, should I sleeve my block? I want it to be reliable and decently fast. This car is being build for drifting, and I want to push it. But don't want to shred my block. Any advice is appreciated.

nissanfreak317

Most guys only sleeve if they have already bored their block twice, or are going for insane power. I wouldn't put your goals under the insane power category, so I would say no sleeves IMHO.

You may find that it will be difficult and expensive to build a drift machine and still have it be a reliable daily...

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EsChassisLove

Lawl @sleeving an iron block.

Sleeving is mainly for aluminum blocks wanting tons of power. If you've already bored a iron block out to the point where you can't go any further, then you need to buy a new block, not sleeve it. That's a waste of money.

I love people who have "psi" goals and not HP goals lol.

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Butcher240sx

Forged pistons and rods with good hardware, valve job, and machine the block flat and the head. Hone the block if the cylinders are clean. Or bore if they are jacked badly. New gaskets and timing components. You will be safe to 500+ HP. Anything more than 300HP and the car will ne pretty fast. You should be able to do that on 15 psi. T3 turbo and a good tune and you can drive it everyday.

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Don't Mess With Texas

NoPistons!

Love how nobody here tends to ever mention even though two turbos can push 18 psi, different wheels and housings flow different cfm at that 18psi..... Food for thought. Learn how to read a compressor map.

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Just another broke ass drifter

GoodyMonster

HP goal: between 300 and 400

engine has some sort of issue with it i bought it from a guy who just pulled engine and tranny out to dig into it. should i just send the whole engine to the shop since i got 2 different story's about what the guy thinks is wrong with it.

engine is supposed to be stock, never tuned out or raced (heavily). so to my knowledge no previous bore, or severe block ware.


Also guy at the machine shop told me to do a .020 overbore and block cleaning would cost me $300. that sounds overly cheep to me should i be concerned? (keep your dick answers this is my first project car I'm looking for help not criticism for being ignorant)

Memberofthe600hpkaclub

Sounds about right actually....but if u do pistons might as well get rods for when you out grow that power...trust me u will...Arp main and rod studs are a must...a good race main and rod bearing set...and.check your oil pump tolerances...new oem timing set...I would never "build" a ka-t without these things

dawagarage

300 for a rebore doesnt sound cheap to me

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