evanpapier00

Hey guys I?ve never used this forum before hopefully I can get someone to help me out. The other day I bought a 92 S13 hatchback, was a shell the previous owner dropped the KA in and 5spd trans. He stated it needed a fuel pressure regulator to run, so I replaced it. Tried to crank and still start and slow die after about 15 seconds. I pulled plugs and they smell like fuel and were wet, before I kept cranking I pulled the dip stick and smelled gas. My plan is to change the oil, disconnect the fuel lines and remove spark plugs, then crank and fuel should shoot out of spark plug holes? Is this correct?
In theory this should make it run?
Any help anyone had it would be much appreciated I?m new to the schassis fam


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NukeKS14

No.

Welcome to the forums.

Good call changing the oil but you need to figure out why its running so rich. Start by pulling codes from the ecu and figure out if it recognizes a problem.

Common issues that could cause your excessively rich condition are tps issue, maf issue, coolant temp sensor issue, leaky injector(s) or combination of the above.

https://240sxtech.com/

There are some pictorals on reading codes from your ecu, checking tps voltage, etc... there is also a link to factory service manuals. EC section will have a step by step guide for diagnosing and fixing each specific code.

evanpapier00

Thank you for the response, I?ve read about all of these issues causing it to run rich. From what I?ve read if the MAF is the issue, the car should run with it disconnected...then plug it back in while running and if it dies that?s the issue?
For now I am going to still try what I stated before, shooting excess fuel from the motor, change oil, plugs ect. If I still get the same result I will move to the other issues
*also, with the car not running/driving, how do u check Computer codes?


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NukeKS14

That isn't going to help you, as stated before, but knock yourself out.


I provided a link to a list of DIY procedures on how to do that in my last reply. Can't read it for you man.

Pulling codes is done w the engine off

evanpapier00

Damn dawg, smh...I read through a few things in the link and it was very confusing. I appreciate you providing it for me though. I will take more time to read through it and absorb as much as possible. Like I said I am new here...also knew to troubleshooting a car that doesn?t run that I also had no part in putting togetherwe don?t have to be so toxic we?re on the same team


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evanpapier00

Also how with this not help me? So your saying I should just leave the fuel in the motor? Makes a lot of sense...


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NukeKS14

You're saying that your cylinders are full of standing fuel?

evanpapier00

I mean I think so? Bro idrkI did find how to check the computer for codes like you said. I will try that first thing and see what I come up with. Again thank you for your help


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FaLKoN240

Put the car in "ON" with the key. Find the ECU in the passenger kick panel, find the ECU diagnose screw, follow the instructions on the ECU to turn the screw.

Once your red light is flashing count the flashing check engine light.

First digit- slow flashes
Second digit- fast consecutive flashes.

In between codes, there will be a pause. If you get different numbers you have multiple diagnosis codes.

Google the numbers you find along with KA24 (whatever engine you have) then google how to fix those problems.

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evanpapier00

So I tried to check codes last night, following instruction from the same YouTube video...however, my ECU is missing the green LED. I was trying to still count off of the red LED and when I turn the dial to diagnostic, I get 3 slow flashes, then 5 fast flashes. I let it repeat that a few times before turning the dial back. Turned the key off, back on and my red LED is now solid color when key is on. This means it?s back in the right mode to run correct?
I?ve also read a lot about the MAF issue, i haven?t tried to mess with mine but you can disconnect it and it will put the car in limp mode correct? Allowing it to idle but not rev past 1500 or so RPM?


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silverarrow27

That means you have a code 35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Circuit issue. And yes, you're back to normal mode.

3000 RPM for your MAF question.

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evanpapier00

Ok thanks, any more guidance on code 35? Exhaust gas temperature? Would that be like O2 sensor?


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NukeKS14

I was thinking leaky injector at first but you said ALL of the spark plugs were wet, right? I don't know how all of them would be leaking to that extent. When you pulled the fuel rail to install the fuel pressure regulator, did you mess with anything else on the fuel rail?

To answer your last question about the code 35 (though I don't think that's going to cause the issue, if it's bad may as well address it while you're fixing things.)

Courtesy of the Factory Service Manual






I'd start checking off common problem areas. These things could be causing your rich issue without throwing a code. Or you could have a combination of issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-Mwxicmpg4
DIY video on checking/adjusting your TPS.



FSM on testing your knock sensor. This would likely throw a code and while it puts your engine into limp mode, it shouldn't make it run so rich it won't idle.

I'm not normally an advocate of throwing parts at something but I'll make an exception for the Coolant Temperature Sensor in this case. It's kind of a pain in the butt to test and at that point, you've already removed it from the system. A bad CTS may not throw a code but it is an input to the VE tables and warmup tables for the engine. If your ECU thinks it's really cold it'll give it more fuel on startup. Don't confuse this with the gauge on your dash; these cars use 2 separate sensors for that. Make sure you get one like the one pictured. Should be able to pick it up from your local parts store for less than $20






MAF

If you do this, be VERY careful not to short out the wiring while taking a measurement and make triple sure your multimeter is set to read DC voltage before you connect it here

If you want to do a quick-and-dirty on the MAF to tell if it's bad, you can backprobe between the solid black and solid white wires on your MAF plug (pins C and D on the last page here) and you SHOULD be reading 0.8-1.2VDC

The catch here is that's voltage with the car idling and MAF plugged in. Backprobing is connecting to the wire harness side with it still installed in the system. Be careful not to damage the pigtail here. Easier method would be to borrow and swap out MAFs with a buddy who has a known good MAF. If you don't have one and/or want to spend the money to shotgun it.... well here you go.

evanpapier00

No didn?t mess with anything else, while I was there I took a good look at injector O rings and the other large rubber rings/spacers (idk what they?re called) none seemed to be ripped dry or broken. I am going to change EGR sensor though, just to eliminate that factor. And yes, all plugs were wet and smelled like fuel.


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evanpapier00

I have read about the coolant temp sensor issue as well, and like you said I?m not trying to just throw parts at it and hope something works, but for less than $20? Why not? So this has kind of narrowed it down for me. I am going to troubleshoot these 3 issues and pray that they work lol.
Also I noticed the EGR sensor is only cali cars, my car was built in SC (KA24de was swapped in by previous owner) and I had been reading about how some ECUs have a by pass to not read EGR. I am wondering, if my ECU is by passed, the sensor should make no difference? As long is something is blocking the hole (the sensor as of now) replacing will not help my case?


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NukeKS14

Your car was built in Japan, not south carolina.

Cali code is for emissions. Only way to tell if it had that package is pull vin on car engine and ecu are from and decode.

evanpapier00

No I know thatI mean, it was a shell and the things that are currently there were done in SCbut you thinking it doesn?t matter, as long as the sensor is still there it?s reading? I mean shit it has to be if it?s throwing that code


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thegr8one013

when you say you took a look at the injector orings did you physically remove the injectors and inspected the oring? you may have ripped them when installing the injectors back on the rail and now its dumping extra fuel

evanpapier00

Yes I removed the entire rail just to make regulator installation a bit easier(they are notorious for stripping the bolt) like I said I checked out all the o rings they all looked fine. It did take some finesse to get that back seated, but I highly doubt I ripped one considering I had this problem before removal, and I still have this problem apon installation. No change


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