Dannytheboysx

I recently just bought a 93 s13. Only thing it needed was a clutch and some lovin'. Anyways- I decided to do it myself . I have already dropped the tranny , and replaced the clutch. I have the tranny lined up and in. But there is a half inch gap between the transmission and the mating surface. I can't figure out how to line up the plate between the tranny. Any pointers I should keep in mind? I don't want to break anything by forcing it. There seems to be several nipples coming off the plate, that go into indentions. But I can't seem to get it in. I apologize if this has ready been covered. Thanks is advanced guys. Also- sorry if I sound like an idiot , this is my first rodeo.

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"is that an old prelude"

KoukiKid

Sounds like you haven't aligned the transmission with the engine properly. Like it's getting caught on one of said nipples or something... Some photos wouldn't hurt. :P

MamangSorbetero

There is a dowel on the engine block you need to line up with the transmission case.

It helps to support the engine from the bottom and tilt it back so it can line up with the transmission installation angle. Just be careful not to damage the oil pan and timing cover.

blkvrtswp

Also when lifting the trans up to mate it to the engine, rotate it clockwise 90 degrees for extra clearance, then rotate it back to normal for the final 2 inches. This makes a huge difference in the difficulty - especially if working alone without a lift and trans jack.

Dannytheboysx

sorry it took me so long to upload these pictures. been hella busy.

i got this far, and it just wont go any further. i just cant fit the dowels in the plate between the tranny and the motor. i pretty sure everything is aligned correctly. its a head scratcher fer sure. (for me anyways)

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blkvrtswp

I am thinking either [A] there is no problem and you can use the bell housing bolts to close that gap; or [B] something is screwed up inside (like the TO bearing carrier jammed into the pressure plate, or fork fell of carrier, etc) causing interference.

I would pull it off again and verify nothing is messed up inside on the carrier, fork and pivot. Then put it back in using the 90 degree rotation method so the input shaft stays closer to straight when installing it.

Good luck. My 1st solo 'on the ground' trans install took 3 tries before I had it right. Man were my arms tired!

EDIT: make sure it is not the dowel pins causing the problem. Drill the plate or file the pins.

jsu1012

pull it off to make sure nothing is out of wack , then when you get ready to put it back up. lift the front of the motor up to angle the back down. makes it so much easier to install the transmission. i've taken my trans out 4 times this year lol. with the engine angled slightly it lines right up.

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Dannytheboysx

I'm going to have to drop it just to make sure everything is okay. Are the dowels supposed to easily go into the plate? Or does it take some force? I have to loosen the motor mounts to tip the motor? Or should it just tip? Thanks for the replies dudes.

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"is that an old prelude"

yetijeff

No they don't slide in very easy usually what I do with any tranny or engine r&r is (obviously certify nothing is out of wack inside.) get it all lined up like how u have it. Put in all case bolts hand tight. Then tighten them all in increment and in a side to side pattern, kinda like lug nuts. As long a everything's lined up it should wedge into place. But if it gets to the point where it's really really tight and u still have a gap and not moving, stop. U don't wanna snap the ears off the case. Then sit and ponder your life a bit, and take it apart and try again...lol

blkvrtswp

To tilt the engine, I use a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 right under the front oil pan lip. Only jack it up about a half inch, maybe a little more (you don't want to damage the mounts or mount brackets). I do not loosen the mount bolts.

Gamma

Any update from op or did u give up, you got it bro

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The answer is in the math. HP = (TQxRPM)/5252

Dannytheboysx

I've been waiting for a day off work. I should have a clear day this week. Will definitely post what happens. Thanks for the replies again guys

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"is that an old prelude"

kamilitaryman

Put a little grease on the dowel pins. It will help.

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400HP KA24DET in progress

Dannytheboysx

Alright dudes. I went at it today. I jacked up the front a bit and literally bolted it in, it went in no problem. Everything looks to be looking good. Will update tomorrow when I hook up the the harness and starter lines. Thanks again dudes!

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"is that an old prelude"

Dannytheboysx

Update: got everything hooked up. SHE LIVES. I took her around the block. She shifts smooth. The only thing I really noticed is that the car shakes a lot during idle and lower gears (1-2) . I did notice that I am missing one of the bolts that attaches the tranny to the rear tranny mount. Could that be what's causing it?

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"is that an old prelude"

yetijeff

Possibly. Didn't have the problem before? Were u takin stuff off the motor too?

S14DB

I would say so.

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Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

Frank_Jaeger

If the shaking is caused by a jumping idle then I would check for vacuum leaks.

xbl1nd

vac leaks possibly, also you can use a seat bolt for the tranny crossmember (marked 7 on the bolt). Id also check motor mounts/tranny mounts// also did you replace alternator recently? you would be suprised at what can make a car shake rough, if you replaced alternator, take belt off and start the car, put it in gear, see if that helps, if it runs smooth, look into replacing alternator (it could have been replaced previous to you owning the car and the either the belt tensioner or alternator clutch is shot. also check for misfires, that can def cause the car to shake (did you put fuel cleaner recently?). Hope you get it fixed soon!