PoorMans180SX

I was not directing the comment at you personally, just as an answer to your question.

mmdb is asking nieko if he has the driftworks knuckles (which he does not) because I believe he never got to test them on his own car when it was still together and wants to see how they fair on the roadcourse.

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motoxris

Hey guys. I thought I would go ahead and throw something new out there for all the super low guys blow axles, and guys with extended RLCA.

I'm making axle spacers. 19mm, 3/4" thick

It's kind of late so here is some pictures we can talk about.

Enjoy.


First you get an idea.


Then you make it real.

Jonnie Fraz

Nice work!

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motoxris

Thanks. Quite a bit went into making the fitment and clearances good as can be.

kognition

That is quite ingenius man. Hats off to you.

motoxris

Thanks a bunch. I just bolted them to the car. They fit nice. I had to disconnect the coilover and links to install. Once installed, I jack the car up with the jack under the control arm. With the control arm level there still was a quarter inch of play in axle. Honnestly It's only a few minutes of work. Resin I say that is people were worried about ease of install.

motoxris

This is all the stuff my brother is offering work for.

Enjoy.

Drift spec knuckles. Track tested and proven with crazy angle. Also has bump steer correction. More than the competitors.





Here is same great angle with these parts.




This the crossmember with 25mm forward rack relocation.

Z33dori

legit



GTI Technical Innovations...

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nieko

How much are they charging for those? Shit looks BEEEEFY LOL

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PerilousActs

Wonder how much they weight.

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uperformance

that is some crazy angle my friend, what does he charge to do the crossmember mod?

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motoxris

I'm actually not a 100% sure but he is charging only 100 for the knuckle mods to give you a ballpark estimate. I think $100 for the crossmember. I'll ask him when he gets back.

motoxris

Yeah it's $100 for the cross member with the core.

articdragon192

How do you adjust length without disconnecting the LCA?

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Z33dori

Set it once?

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singlecamslam

It will only take like 2 more minutes to undo that nut. I think that whole middle adjuster piece that you wrench on is unnecessary on the control arms.
Hope i can afford the Dmax roll adjuster procedure, or i'm just gonna have to make my own again...

atutt

That's an awfully thick block to be welding to the thin stamped sheet like metal in the LCA....

I personally don't know if I'd trust that idea....

singlecamslam

I have a question, is there any other brand besides SPL that sells offset bushings to get the s14 subframe into s13?

az_240

^Stance makes em
Stance Subframe Conversion Bushing Set - 240sx S13/S14

Also try PMing PBM. I think they said they were going to start making them....can't remember.

i need tires

$100 also for knuckles?

Patrick Bowering

and matt powers has switched to driftworks front and rear knuckles now too.

Pstl_pete

Does anyone have feedback on the Nagisa Auto roll center ball joints front and rear? Before and after with them? Etc?

Im considering a set but the investment of $500+ dollars into a set seems to be quite expensive for a street car.

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gobackwards

seen this in action, it's pretty rad. I'm gonna have them make me some stuff asap.

Csomme

Alright guys, let's get this kicked off again. I want to pick some brains here. We have a somewhat good setup on this car, but we're looking for more. This is my friend Bens car that he built himself and will be competing in Formula D proam on the east coast with this year.

Heres the car setup:

S13 with 403HP LS2
PSM knuckles with RCC and decreased akerman(spelling?)
Godspeed lower control arms.
Godspeed front and rear sway bars
All adjustable arms
Running 235/40/17 Nitto NT05's up front at 33psi
Running 255/40/17 federals in the rear run around 25psi hot
PSM coilovers REARS: full soft FRONT: 3 clicks from soft

Alignment is:
FRONT:
Camber: 4 degrees
Caster: 7 degrees (stock is 6.7)
Toe: .05 out

REAR
Camber: .5 degrees
Toe: .05 in

Car is not too low, he really likes the front setup, and his front grip, however, we aren't seeing the speed we'd like to in drift. We need more forward bite.

One thing we do realize is that this could be gained(at least a little) from decent throttle modulation, especially being a v8 and high torque motor, instead of almost tacking it out every run.

But we need tons of more forward bite, we need to get faster in the turns to improve our competitiveness.

We need to do this without changing tire size, and with suspension

So I'm just looking to pick brains of the smarter people in here about what to do about more forward bite. Any advice at all would be helpfull.


Also, we were wondering about a good contact patch for the front. Are we running too much camber up front? Too much caster? Or is this okay? We figured we're fine because Ben loves the way the front feels, but it's something we were all wondering about.

This is him at full lock entering hard. look at the contact patch of the leading wheel versus the trailing. Problem?



Just trying to get input from smarter people than I

BTW, Dan at PSM, thank you so much for your wonderful products, we obviously love them and Ben puts them to good use

Z33dori

do this



I'm still curious to know if having reverse rake works for forward bite. Since the weight of the car has to continue back over the wheels.

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Csomme

Haha, I'm sure we would have already done that if it wasn't for the Formula D rulebook stating that we couldn't.

Z33dori

you can move them within and Inch, or did they change that?

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Csomme

It was my understanding that NO factory pick ups on the chassis or subframe(s) could be modified..... If I'm wrong, that's awesome. I'd love to see this thing with less anti-squat. And it would take like 10 minutes to do. lol

Def

Can you rotate the subframe some to reduce antisquat? I hated how my car felt with a shorter traction rod in the rear. Bumped it up 1/4" over stock and the rear end feels much more solid (track car, not a drift car, but I imagine traction is traction to some extent).

Maybe try adjusting traction rod length and see how it changes the rear traction of the car.

I'd also take out all of that toe in, or at least most of it. You could be running them at too high of a slip angle with all that toe in where you get less traction.

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Csomme

Correction, Toe is .05 in, not .5, lol That's the definitely the wrong place for a typo.

We have the PSM subframe risers in the rear, so adjusting the angle of the subframe really isn't a possibility right now, but if we grabbed a new subframe and put SPL's stuff in it would be.

Also, we'll mess with the traction rod at the next practice event we go to for sure, I'm still not sure what that thing does! I mean, I know what it does, but how the suspension and overall feel is affecting by either shortening it or lengthening it, I have no clue.