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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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03-27-2006, 07:24 AM | #1 |
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Maintenance, Tune up and cleaning for SR
I'd like to start a thread specifically for detailed write ups on maintainance of the SR (and other enignes this may apply to). I think it'd be a good FAQ for people to post on - only detailed questions *on topic* please.
I'll start with cleaning your MAF or Mass Airflow Sensor. This reads and relays how much air is taken in and can cause idle and drivability issues if dirty. Stumble, surge, lack of power, etc. History has used carb cleaner and similar cleaners to clean MAFs, but CRC has a new MAf cleaner that is less likely to cause issues because of the cleaning. I'm getting some whenever it shows up locally. A stock MAF is located on towards the end of the intake tube, before the airbox. There is a wire That need to be unclipped (do not damage or loose metal retainer clip) to remove. Remove wire, loosen hose clamps on either side, and remove maf. Follow instrustion on cleaner *or* spray cleaner,you may use a toothbrush GENTLY to get at any stubborn areas. I do not recommned you brush/touch the MAF wire as this is the damageable part of the MAF. So simply spray, soak, and let dry before use. Reinstall.
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03-27-2006, 04:45 PM | #7 |
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Ok-
Since no one else wants a turn - a little redundance:. SPARKPLUGS Stock sr plugs are BKR6E Above stock boost - recommend use of BKR7E gapped around -.028 to .030 (.33 is factory set I beleive) "BKR7E -11 "are the same plugs - BUT HAVE A HIGHER GAP of .044 This is contriversial, but I see no benefit of platnium or iridium etc other than extended service intervals. I use the Copper BKR7E every 6k miles @ $8 total cost, and feel a difference when I replace them. Now - I'd like to see about cleaning some valves or something, anyone??? Anything that's used on swapped SR that benefits from removal and cleaning
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'93 Fastback LE - Wrecked '91 Fastback HICAS and LSD - Sold '93 Fastback SE - Current |
03-28-2006, 08:57 AM | #9 |
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True - I omitted by accident because I prefer copper. Good stuff!
Now how about engine flush? I typically use Seafoam sometimes in the oil before an oil change, but I'm not sure on the sr20det becasue I don't want to damage the turbo lubrication? What do you think about a flush additive on a turbo car?
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'93 Fastback LE - Wrecked '91 Fastback HICAS and LSD - Sold '93 Fastback SE - Current |
03-28-2006, 09:55 AM | #11 |
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I'd say any cleaner should help clean - but if you want to, shell out he $20 for BG 44K which is good stuff. I had no real problems, so when I put in the BG I felt no difference.
I'll pick up anything really, as long as it's designed for cleaning injectors and it goes in the gastank, for about $3.
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'93 Fastback LE - Wrecked '91 Fastback HICAS and LSD - Sold '93 Fastback SE - Current |
03-28-2006, 12:02 PM | #12 |
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My injectors are loud as hell aswell when compared to another friends as well (theres on 2 sr's here in my town including me). I, myself wouldn't recommend just any gas station cleaner. For some reason I think they do nothing. haha.
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03-28-2006, 02:16 PM | #14 |
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It depends. The drift king said, "If you drift everyday, you gotta change fluid like once a month." If you drift once a week, good idea to do it 7-8 months. This is for clutch types, for welded, I dunno maybe, every 6 months, and for open, screw it don't change it so it might actually lock up hahahaa or replace the damn thing with a clutch or weld it.
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03-28-2006, 06:38 PM | #15 |
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For transmissions- the 240sx takes GL-4 fluid, which is now hard to find, at least for me locally...everthing was GL-5.
The problem is that most fliuds are now GL-5 rated, which is not friently with Brass Synchro's in the tranny. I used AMSOIL Synthetic tranny fluid. Great, but sometimes a little difficult going into gear around freezing temperatures. No issues above 50 degrees. Others use Redline Mt-90 and some use GM Syncromesh (or mix in some). I also recommend OEM nissan fluid to get it and never have issues... I'm going to put XXX in the factory VLSD, it's sealed and fluid has no effect on performace. So something synthetic adn close to factory specs 80w-90. I will change fluid every 1.5 years for my daily which see's limited track use.
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03-28-2006, 06:50 PM | #16 |
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For drivetrain fluids, the min would be before and after every race. The max would be 36 months/30,000 miles. Pick somewhere in between where you're comfortable and stick with it.
If you roadrace your car, you should top it off before and change it after every track event. Just look at the fluid coming out when you drain it. With autocross or drift you may get away with putting it off, but with roadracing where each session can last 20-30+ minutes, you have a lot more heat buildup. |
03-30-2006, 07:05 PM | #18 |
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^^some folks are quoting this off of the manual. it says do not use any injector cleaner/additive. it's bad for nissan injectors.
but here's an alternative cleaner. chevron techron. this stuffs already in the gas. just pump gas at a gas station that has this stuff and you're good to go. or you can shell out about $6 a bottle. this is the only injector cleaner i know of that's safe for our injectors. |
10-08-2007, 12:40 AM | #21 |
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-Whatever you all do, DO NOT use anything that says Lucas on it. The stuff is garbage.
-NEVER in your life put a FRAM filter on your car if you love it or want to keep it running. I don't care what it is, I will never use a FRAM. -As far as injector cleaner goes, I agree with the Techron statement. My injectors eventually sounded like a group of diesel engines under the hood with my KA, have not had enough time with an SR to comment in this department, after using a cleaner every 3-6 months depending on amount of driving I had done. The sound always seemed to get worse with each use, never better. I switched fuel rails and never used the stuff again, and never ran across the diesel sound again either. -As far as rear diff. goes. I order Nissan fluid if the dealership is out of it. I will be trying different options this time around for research purposes though. -Transmissions. When I first drive my car I decide right there what I will be doing to my 5 speeds by the way they feel when I buy the car. So far I have been less than satisfied and flushed every one of them with diesel fluid. I then started fresh with new input and output seals and Royal Purple as soon as I get my hands on them. I will also be doing my own research on which fluids I prefer in this department also. -I use NGK Iridium plugs at the moment just to try them out. Otherwise, copper is my pal. -Z32 fuel filters every time. -Oil. I either use Valvoline conventional, Mobil 1 synthetic, or Royal Purple. -Also down here you can buy Schaeffer's synthetic, basically Royal Purple but clear instead. VERY VERY popular with the Outlaw and other Dirt Track guys down here, due to yielding nearly identical results at half the price per quart. Hope this helps if anyone needed the input. Good luck with your babies.
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06-02-2008, 04:31 PM | #24 |
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I hate reviving such old threads, but this one's pretty useful to me. Since there were mixed opinions about injector cleaner for these motors, and now that almost a year's passed by since the last posting, has anyone actually yielded good results from using it?
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06-02-2008, 04:35 PM | #25 |
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I would never use an injector cleaner... if you always get premium gas from a chain station not a discount station your fine anyways. Dont ever get gas from one of those cheap places they put water in their fuel...
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06-02-2008, 04:39 PM | #26 |
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Yeah I've never used one, but you would think that at least ONE would do SOMETHING beneficial considering that there's so many products out there that attempt to do the same thing. About premium "brand name" gas, I've never had a bad thing with V-Power from shell, but then again maybe it's a placebo effect type of thing?
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06-02-2008, 05:39 PM | #27 |
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well, some people have told me my injectors are loud. i don't really notice, but if people start tellin your engine sounds like a diesel, you start thinking...
i always use shell v-power or aral ultimate (which is 100 octane ROZ, in case some of you don't know) but the ticking has never become better or worse...but i mean, i'll be exchanging injectors sooner or later anyway, so it kinda doesn't matter as long as they do their job |
06-09-2008, 10:29 AM | #28 |
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I would suggest BG 44k as an Injector Cleaner $20, or Chevron Techron $5 annually with good gas being used (Shell, Chevron etc).
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06-09-2008, 11:23 AM | #29 |
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I use Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic in the motor.
I'm not sure what I want to put in the tranny. Same goes for the rear diff. Fuel injector cleaner, I use Seafoam. 1/3 bottle in gas, 1/3 through vaccum line and 1/3 through oil filler cap(just drain out old and then add seafoam and then drain) Plugs I use the BKR7E the colder plugs gapped around .28 For cleaing I usually use the CRC non-clorinated stuff to clean in and around intercooler piping and MAF. I'll definitely have to pick up some of the MAF cleaner though. I've had royal purple in the tranny on my S14 SR and didn't like the feel of it. To clean the engine bay I use simple green max. |
07-23-2008, 09:02 AM | #30 | |
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Quote:
I put 75w90 in my z32 vlsd (1.5L) |
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