Hoonigan19

man, that block looks so clean, your a ballar eh

mgps13

nah man, its hard work getting my builds going:
How to get $$ for your build

mgps13

both cars were on ~14psi

from RB car:


from JZ car:

mgps13

Next rear end setup:
(GKTech RUCAs, solid subframe bushings, AGX shocks, 275/40/17 nt05s,new oem control arms, 3.9 j30 diff, powder coated everything else)




Hoping for some better traction and wheel hop prevention.

mgps13

I got all of the rear suspension put together and installed the wider street tires. On 14 psi it sticks OK on the street, but I am hoping that it will work out at the track too. If the wheel hop doesn't show up then I will be happy.

If any one has a time machine, please go back and time and kill whoever thought it was cool to make all of the Nissan r200 differentials so similar yet still different:


The J30 diff had 6 bolt axle stubs, but I wanted to keep my 5 bolt R32 axles in my setup. My first thought was to swap the z32 stubs into the j30 diff (WRONG), the J30 DIff stubs are longer and have a larger diameter shaft. Nissan makes 3 different vlsd shaft sizes and spline counts, just to keep things interesting I guess,...fuckers.

Undeterred I came up with the idea of swapping the z32 vlsd unit into the j30 case with the j30 ring and pinion. When this setup is shimmed in the J30 manner you almost get a working diif, except that because of the change in shimming now the z32 vlsd shafts are not the correct length, by like an 1/8th of an inch. This causes the drivers side shaft to stick out a tad too far (no issue), but also causes the passenger side shaft to be just barely too short to get to the c clip grove (those fuckers...) But hey no big deal right, Nissan actually made a diif that has this ratio and the 5 bolt output stubs, unfortunately its not the one in my garage at the moment, so back to the z32 diff for now.

Either way more rubber:


Rear camber at ~zero

mgps13

Need to run some bigger gears in the back, I'm still on the z32 as I have not found another diff yet. the car seemed to hop worse at times with the increased rubber

Right side #15:
`
`

mgps13

Car was still sucking at putting down anything at low speeds... Still lots of work todo

mgp 2jz s13 vs z06 (20 roll)


mgp 2jz s13 vs 5.0 mustang (40 roll)


mgp 2jz s13 vs turbo nsx (20 roll)

ray_dizzle33

Very very nice man! Great work on the motor especially it looks great! Keep up the good man

__________________
RIP Inland180

mgps13

1.9 60ft, running off the spring (9-10psi) in first gear. Second gear (14psi) and then up to about ~18psi for 3-4





Drag radials are next. I am hoping with a better 60ft I can get into the high 10s

mgps13

OK so I broke an axle at the track a couple of weeks back which put me down for a little while, but I found an temporary fix for those who are running 5 bolt axles. I picked up a used set of ET street radials in 275 40 r17 for a good price and tried them out. The first time I heat cycled them they umm... worked. What was weird was that I didnt break it at the line it was like 30 feet down the track right about where I finished slipping the clutch. The axle may have been on its way out though from all of the wheel hopping in the past.





Since I am not ready to upgrade to the z32/q45 setup, I found another solution for the time being. It appears that 350z axles are about the same dimensions as the the J30, except in a 6 bolt round pattern. The J30 axles are longer than my old r32 axles but still usable. What I ended up doing is building a hybrid axle from my r32 5 bolt and the z33 6 bolt.

Outside are some J30 axles I borrowed for comparison, inside is 350z:



Here is the process of turning a 350z axle into a usable 5 bolt axle. The 350z has the same spline on the wheel side as the 240sx, and comes with a lifetime warranty

mgps13

My r154 shifter housing has always been warped. I got it out a junkyard MKIII for cheap mainly because it had been droped and the housing took most of the injury. Anyways, to get the thing to not sweat gear oil I decided to just remake it for the most part:







I also added a vent which I did not show here, either way it doesn't sweat anymore. I does however squirt gear oil up through the shifter under heavy load usually at the top of 3rd or 4th FML. (it is not overfilled)

mgps13

So my sixty foot is still bad, but I was being gentle to not break another cv axle. I didn't get a chance to run again this night, so I will have to see what happens next time. Please ignore my annoying nervous shifter practice in neutral.

Heywood Jablomie

Damn that thing is fast. Nice build man, love the car!

mgps13

Stars never line up right and the junkyard r154 goes into 3rd smoothly like one out of three runs. I'm going to try a larger gear next, probably 3.69 from the Q45. I think just the gear alone will push it into the tens.

Almighty So

so close!
i believe next update will be 10s. you got this haha

__________________

mgps13

Staying with a 275/40/17 but I am going to run a new set of Hoosier drag radials on a pair of track only wheels

mgps13

Machined the q45 input flange to fit the s chassis driveshaft:

mgps13

I decided to go with the Hoosiers for the weight savings over MT and I got a cheap pair of semi-light wheels to run them on. This way I don't ever have to drive them on the street.

still 275/40/17





New gearing works out like this:



^ Now I will just have to see how it goes at the track...

mgps13

mgps13

mgps13

Malik

very nice keep it up