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Old 06-07-2012, 12:19 PM   #31
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^Thats how I plan to design mine. I think alot of the Formula D cars are build like that also.
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:34 PM   #32
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^Thats how I plan to design mine. I think alot of the Formula D cars are build like that also.
True that. I was looking at some of the ASD cars, specifically JTP's and while back and realized that there's nothing solid in the rear corners of the car which is really neat. If you ever watch him wall ride, you'll see that his rear corner moves in a good few inches like it's nothing.

I'd image that you want something similar on the front corners of the car, if it's a drift car. Would let you make contact with the lead car without transferring much, if any, energy. (Body panels would just move out of the way)
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:31 PM   #33
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Here's mine so far. Thinking of adding in a tube that mimicks that factory tubs.



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Thanks so much! As for how much material, im just trying to get a rough guestimate, Do I go with 10 feet, 20 feet, less?

I used about 18' of material on mine, no wasted pieces.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:27 AM   #34
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OP your s14 doesnt happen to be at intense right now does it?
rules:

Yes thats my car the White Blister kit S14




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here you go Gabe i saw you took my crash bar as an exemple .

i will show you how we did my car !!!

my front crash bar is removable , the tub front end on the other side was welded to the chassi . my intercoller became the head light bracket and the rad bracket
Thabks a lot!.
I have been away from zilvia for a while, so its cool to see the thread actually growing!
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:32 PM   #35
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Thabks a lot!.
I have been away from zilvia for a while, so its cool to see the thread actually growing!
Same here, I'm pumped that this has some more posts!! There isn't much documentation on this across the intarwebz.

Idk if anyone else thats had this done noticed a pretty drastic improvement in steering, but I feel like it tightened the front up tremendously.
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Old 06-27-2012, 08:49 PM   #36
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What is the rad in the second picture, please?

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this is the best way to go if you have a v8 or v10 ... with a rad support bar !!!


i was fucked when i changed my rb to ls1 (nothing to old my rad and head light
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:43 AM   #37
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BECool rad !!! size? i dont remember by eart ... got it from summitracing

fit in between the stock rails without bieng to tight (give you room for rail deflection in casse of a crash and you wont crush your rad !!!

i only had to trim the webing on the inside of my hood (for reference : if the stock rad support is there , it goes pass it about 2 or 3 inch)
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:16 PM   #38
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Where are you guys getting your tube fronts done? I'm a noob with no equipment or experience for that and someone suggested that a tube front would be the best option after my crash that resulted in a bent frame on my passenger side.

A mechanic told me any body shop could do it? who did your tube front?
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:30 PM   #39
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Someone who is welding certified? Someone who specializes in race cars or heavily modified cars? That's what id suggest.

Keep em coming, im getting mine front and rear tubed and tied into cage... will take a long time though but wait will be worth it...
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:06 PM   #40
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Where are you guys getting your tube fronts done? I'm a noob with no equipment or experience for that and someone suggested that a tube front would be the best option after my crash that resulted in a bent frame on my passenger side.

A mechanic told me any body shop could do it? who did your tube front?
Import Intelligence is in PA ... Check those guys out. They did my swap and i plan on going back to them or RT tuning..
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Old 08-20-2012, 07:10 AM   #41
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Need more set ups in this thread!

Ill post mine soon as it gets done
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:42 PM   #42
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Here is mine. They both in bolt and the fenders and bumpers are held on by dzus fasteners.
I forget the size we used. Sorry!


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Old 08-22-2012, 07:48 PM   #43
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Looks good, the only problem I see with it is that it seems like it will bend the chassis before it bends those bars in an impact, at least with those bolt in locations. You might want to consider running down bars from the strut towers to the front rails and plating both of them to prevent them from being damaged in an accident. This will force the bars to bend before the actual chassis parts.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:05 AM   #44
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So whats the basic size you guys are using for the tubed fronts? Is 1" 3/4" DOM tubing a good size? I'm not sure as to what FD rulebooks specify for modification to front end structures but I'm sure there is some guidelines. I wont be runing FD but perhaps my local Pro-AM division later down the line. However, I would like to prep my car to some sanctioned event standard. I would really appreciate if anyone with experience with front ends could chime in and help discuss material selection.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:21 AM   #45
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op's build sounds ridiculous. nice job starting this thread. should definitely come in handy for a lot of us.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:13 PM   #46
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This thread fucking rules
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:03 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VYKTR View Post
So whats the basic size you guys are using for the tubed fronts? Is 1' 3/4" DOM tubing a good size? I'm not sure as to what FD rulebooks specify for modification to front end structures but I'm sure there is some guidelines. I wont be runing FD but perhaps my local Pro-AM division later down the line. However, I would like to prep my car to some sanctioned event standard. I would really appreciate if anyone with experience with front ends could chime in and help discuss material selection.
I emailed them for a rule book, and have the Pro book as well as the Pro-am supplement. If you PM me your email I can forward it to you. There are no specifications for tube front end other than from the strut towers back it must remain oem.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:03 AM   #48
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My tubular front.

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Old 10-05-2012, 09:14 AM   #49
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Here is mine. I copied Dai's S13 in that the interior cage "bolts" through the firewall, passes through the strut tower for extra reinforcement and ties at the front of the frame rails. A new boxed frame support goes across the bottom and ties into the nismo power brace as the factory piece does, just 10x stronger. In addition two support bars were added in the front for my Accusump canister.


Anyways here is the result so far....





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Old 10-06-2012, 02:07 AM   #50
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how do you mount the headlights? To the kit or you make custom brakcets? Just curious.
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:19 AM   #51
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how do you mount the headlights? To the kit or you make custom brakcets? Just curious.
Looks close Scottie's headlight mounts are right there on the front cross bar.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:20 AM   #52
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Looks close Scottie's headlight mounts are right there on the front cross bar.
oh I see what youre talking about. Not all tubed fronts have brackets like that? Or is it just me? lol
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:43 AM   #53
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how much is all this costing you guys on average?
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i wanna be able to go outside and be like what car do i drive cause there all so awesome and just give up and go back to bed
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:02 PM   #54
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I emailed them for a rule book, and have the Pro book as well as the Pro-am supplement. If you PM me your email I can forward it to you. There are no specifications for tube front end other than from the strut towers back it must remain oem.
PM sent. Thanks for the hook up.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:15 PM   #55
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IMO that's a bad spot for the accusump. Rumble strip or off track skirmish could damage that
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:45 AM   #56
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Would this pass a dmv inspection in california?
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i wanna be able to go outside and be like what car do i drive cause there all so awesome and just give up and go back to bed
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:56 PM   #57
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My tubular front.

Woa thats an awesome setup! What did you guys use to bend the piping off the strut towers? Looks crush bent!
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:56 PM   #58
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Glad too see this thread is making.more and more progress!
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:54 PM   #59
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Almost done,
made it removable like someone posted earlier.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:22 AM   #60
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IMO that's a bad spot for the accusump. Rumble strip or off track skirmish could damage that
I guess we differ on location ideas. As I see it the cnc canister is stronger than a radiator so I'm not worried about rock chips/debris. Hell a FMIC is far easier to damage sitting behind the bumper. It sits behind a 120 DOM 1 3-4" bash bar. Granted if I go through it I will most likely damage it along with the radiator, oil cooler & oil filter. I chose location because the most important function for the Accusump is to provide oil as soon as a pressure drop occurs. It says in the IOM it is beneficial to install the sump as close to the motor as feasible. The headers prevent it from the side. I didn't want a hot oil container sitting next to me in the cab. The only other spot leaves the trunk. The inside of the firewall is okay but to me it's not worth a possible leak or malfunction inside the cab.
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