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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 05-19-2008, 02:38 PM   #631
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Originally Posted by EJ253 View Post
oh shit! luckily you werent hurt. but how sure are you that that happened because of you boxing in the rods?
Well there's no way to be 100% sure. It stands to reason though, that boxing and poly bushings made them too stiff and they broke at the weak point. If I had done the boxing better, it might not have happened.

Mine are boxed between the black lines on the first pic. If I had done it more like the bottom, and connected it to the barrel and welded it there as well, it might not have snapped. Who knows?
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:00 PM   #632
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It's not just tension, it's compression as well. And with stock bushings, there needs to be some resistance to buckling and bending due to how the bushing loads. I'm not saying that that bracing it really necessary, but it can increase the strength of the arm.

Any arm that does not have rod ends/spherical bearing at both ends is not a pure tension/compression member. Even a pure tension compression member needs to have resistance to buckling, but there would be no moment generated at the mounting point becasue of the bushings.
Yeah I guess you are right in saying that they aren't pure tension/compression members unless you have spherical bearings, but either way, I still think that the gusseting that he added as useless. Check out the way that other poster's arm failed. What happened there is that the really stiff bushing produced more bending moment at the bushing housing weld.

I guess I just don't get why people are going through all the trouble to box, paint, and add stiffer bushings when the clear better solution is to just buy some quality arms with heims.
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:24 PM   #633
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It's probably not useless, but it may not be worth the time and effort either.

The other person's arm look like it failed because the arm was already cracked. If you look at the break point, there is rust on the lower half. It looks like it was failing over time and then finally gave out, probably because the poly bushing ran out of grease and created a ton of friction slowly wearing the arm out. At least that's what it looks like.

For the rear upper arms, I really don't think it's necessary. For the lowers, I can see some benefit due to the sway bar loading on both ends and the TC rod in the front. Boxing them in on the bottom will stiffen them in ways that will benefit.
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Old 05-20-2008, 07:19 PM   #634
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For the rear upper arms, I really don't think it's necessary. For the lowers, I can see some benefit due to the sway bar loading on both ends and the TC rod in the front. Boxing them in on the bottom will stiffen them in ways that will benefit.
Yeah I agree with this.
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Old 05-21-2008, 03:44 PM   #635
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Felt like getting back with aluminum and getting some quick practice in today, its been awhile since i welded aluminum, ive been practicing on stainless steel for a little and was getting i bit tired with it and wanted to weld on a different type of metal.

this is 1/8 plating welded with 3/32 5356 filler rod and used 3/32 2% red end tungsten

Some warm up flat stringer beads.






T joint welds.






here i tryed spreading the beads out a little.
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Old 05-21-2008, 05:54 PM   #636
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Wow. Thats some great sheet metal work. Always nice to see someone know what they are doing.
actually im not that experienced with sheet metal, maybe its just natural skill? haha jk

im way too much of a space cadet to remember the sheet metal gauge i was using on that rust bucket!
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:36 PM   #637
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OK i have another project to post up. i dont agree with anything i did on this car, but its not my car and i get payed by the hour to do what im told lol........

i am installing a "drag" spec cage, the minimal of minimal. and altho i prefure to stitch weld my cages, i was told todo a smooth continuous weld. whatever floats your boat right? AND WE ALL KNOW THE HONDA KIDS WILL WET THEIR PANTS OVER THIS CAR.

ok so ripping out the interior and cleaning off the paint in the areas to be welded is first.


welded in the mounting plates, the welds arnt too great. NOTE: none of the mounting plates will pass SCCA rulebooks (this is how my boss told my to make it, haha)

main hoop is tacked in and ready for more, just like your mom is always ready for more.


rear down bars are next....um the mounted far behind the strut towers. if it was my shitbox they would be mounted to the strut towers.


yep, thats all the bars to be installed here!


a better view?



and from the outside??



oh yah this car is hot! hahahaha
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:59 PM   #638
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wow what a weird looking cage.

money is money though.
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Old 05-23-2008, 12:23 PM   #639
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mig welding with gas, is it that much better than just the fluz wire?

I'm going to be picking up a mig soon and I want to know if its worth it to get the gas connections... and of course gas.
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Old 05-24-2008, 01:02 AM   #640
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Dont even waste your time with flux core mig welders. Get a decent mig, and lincoln L56 wire. That is the best wire for beginners when using gas. And home depot carries it.

But yea. flux core is also not good to learn with. You will get frustrated, and it will not help you learn anything.

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Old 05-24-2008, 12:59 PM   #641
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well that sucks cause I just bought one today... lolo!

I got it on the cheap and its probably good for what i'm doing now. Nothing major. So far it seems like it burns too hot and I only ahve a hi/low setting. SUCKS!

Anyway, don't you have to convert your outlets to a higher voltage? I don't think i'm ready to start tearing up my new condo, but probably will concider it later on.
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Old 05-24-2008, 01:10 PM   #642
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What brand is your new welder? Sounds like a century?

No. You can find many good 110v mig welders that plug into a regular outlet.
Luke
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Old 05-25-2008, 01:33 AM   #643
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Quote:
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What brand is your new welder? Sounds like a century?

No. You can find many good 110v mig welders that plug into a regular outlet.
Luke
Who the hell own a century? It really about Miller. Im sorry if I sound like a e-thug.LOL
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Old 05-25-2008, 04:11 PM   #644
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I guess this guy owns one.


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well that sucks cause I just bought one today... lolo!

I got it on the cheap and its probably good for what i'm doing now. Nothing major. So far it seems like it burns too hot and I only ahve a hi/low setting. SUCKS!

Anyway, don't you have to convert your outlets to a higher voltage? I don't think i'm ready to start tearing up my new condo, but probably will concider it later on.
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Old 05-25-2008, 04:17 PM   #645
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Sorry, I just got back from a party and was a little........How do you say. Wired.haha At my old job we had a Ancient Linde, That thing was bad ass. I'll fab something up fast to get this thread rolling again. Come-on Someone has to have something new.
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Old 05-25-2008, 08:06 PM   #646
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I did some brackets for my intercooler, they're small-time. I will be going to a Luke-status fabricator on Tuesday to mandrel-bend me an exhaust and chop/section my downpipe to fit the chassis as tight as possible - I'll get some pics of that, and then throw together a "premie build thread" with the whole S14 project
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Old 05-25-2008, 08:38 PM   #647
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aww. i guess i gotta buy me a premie membership now.
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Old 05-25-2008, 08:52 PM   #648
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aww. i guess i gotta buy me a premie membership now.
Hell yeah, you do!
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Old 05-25-2008, 10:19 PM   #649
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but im suppost to be a vendor. Can i be both?
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:38 PM   #650
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but im suppost to be a vendor. Can i be both?
Damn that sucks but help out at the same time.
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:41 PM   #651
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How about i just give zilvia like $200 and be both?


edit.
Back on topic please. I will post new fab pics soon. TITANIUM WELDING SAUCE
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:50 AM   #652
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i'm kinda scared to say it... fine, here it goes... Harbor Freight welder. I believe the brand is Chicago Welders or something. Its my first so I don't mind getting something cheap for now.
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:55 AM   #653
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i'm kinda scared to say it... fine, here it goes... Harbor Freight welder. I believe the brand is Chicago Welders or something. Its my first so I don't mind getting something cheap for now.
How much did you pick it up for? if you dont mind me asking.
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:57 AM   #654
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$120

I have a friend that has one and he says its been great for him. I just need it for minor body/chassie repair for now. Nothing pretty, just something that will work.
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Old 05-27-2008, 02:27 PM   #655
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my first post on this thread... figured it was about time.
First time tig welding aluminum pipe or a bov flange too
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:18 AM   #656
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another side job making a oil return on a E30 bmw oil pain for a custom turbo setup. With the motor sitting at like a 60deg angle i made a block for the bung to be welded onto so the return like and maintain a downward angle.
now i have the fun part of welding it to the oil pan... i cleaned inside and out where im welding it... so far i only have 1/4 of it done since its been so time consuming since it dosent realy start a good bead tell its super o shit hot...

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Old 05-31-2008, 06:01 PM   #657
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My brothers fender tubs, I did the metal work and a friend mig welded. Some welds are partially grinded down and look alittle weird.











There's more holes to fill and some mud and sanding to do. And of course paint. Next projects are suspension arms and rollcage

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Old 05-31-2008, 07:22 PM   #658
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nice, i like how the fender rounds off at the end, instead of a sharp edge. after some grinding a bondoing it will look good after paint.

did you guys get that off a trailer fender?
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:38 PM   #659
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nice, i like how the fender rounds off at the end, instead of a sharp edge. after some grinding a bondoing it will look good after paint.

did you guys get that off a trailer fender?
haha, yes we did. got the idea when a guy did it on another forum.
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:13 PM   #660
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: quartz hill CA
Age: 34
Posts: 644
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i've got a quick question
is there a right way to stitch weld
like do you drill holes and weld them up
or just weld the seams where they overlap
thanks in advance guys
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