GSXRJJordan

OEM head studs are good - I think he actually re-used the old ones because they were within spec. What's weird is that the FSM actually gives angles, not torque values, for torquing the studs down. Creeps me out.

Porsche 959s are the shit. 0-60 in less than 4secs = awd that works.

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drftwerks

angle and turns is more accurate iirc

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tknbkthrsdy4anfg

Wait wait wait, let me clarify so I dont look like an idiot.
They are head bolts not studs. I torqued them up to 29, then to 58, then loosened all of them.
Then I retorqued them to 30. marked the side of the bolt heads toward the front of the engine, then rotated them all 90 degrees. with the breaker bar. 100% per FSM.
I also checked all the bolt lengths and they were within factory spec, thats why I choose to reuse them, also I didnt have the money to buy head studs right now. When I up the power I'll do studs.

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cmcdougle

how much are head studs?

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delphis

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-H...spagenameZWDVW

about 130

CKAMC

extreme over price

http://phase2motorsports.stores.yaho...oemsrhebo.html

$85 since you need 10

extra 40 bucks for arp stuff

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ImporteXBUILT

Aren't those just head bolts? The ARP ones are studs, I thought?

Sweet thread, makes me wanna go out and buy an SR so I can do my own build haha.

tknbkthrsdy4anfg

As far as I read head studs pwn head bolts hard core.

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cmcdougle

Yea, me too. I seriously wanna go SR now that they're gonna be legal.



Sorry for the newb question. What's so different about them?

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tknbkthrsdy4anfg

Instead of a bolt that threads through the head into a block, you have a stud that threads into the block and a nut that you thread onto the stud and torque. supposed to be strong and you are able to get a more accurate torque out of them I guess.

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cmcdougle

That's cool. Can you change them without having to take off the head again and putting a new gasket and stuff?

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tknbkthrsdy4anfg

I dont think you can put the studs in with the head on. Anyone thats done those want to chime in?

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zackt69

slower than you

hey, youre from napa, you work at an emissions place, and theres a 959 in the background, you must work at this place that i used to deiver parts to all the time when i worked at napa auto parts. I remember that 959 comin by my work, with probably your boss driving it. 600+hp and street legal... ughhhh

somone already fixed it, sorry bro

drftwerks

hurry and finnish this shit, i need street legal sr for my fc

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cmcdougle

he's accepting donations to help speed up the process. . .

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arian23

That 959 is one of the sickest cars on the planet! Can you show us some pics of the 959?

tknbkthrsdy4anfg

Zack thanks, dougle thanks
arian I will PM you some later.

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tknbkthrsdy4anfg

Day 9
Friday, May 25, 2007

Wow, today was a long day. Some of the other guys in the shop (there is only 5 of us) were testing and tuning a Harley all day, that got really annoying. Anyway I decided to start today off by putting the valve train together, It started off looking like this.

Then I added the valve shims and lifters.

The I dropped on the rocker arms and added assembly lube to the bearings.

I almost forgot to torque down these sub headbolts in the timing area.

I was trying to do everything without taking the cam gears off, but I couldn’t figure out a way to do it. Anyways I got everything lined up, put on and torqued.
Next I decided to tackle putting on the intake manifold. But first I had to get the heater hoses put on.

Then I got the manifold on, all the water lines hooked up and bolts torqued.

Finally I reached the point of no return, the exhaust manifold. I shot it with PB blaster, let it sit and then took it apart.

I got lucky all the turbo studs stayed in.

Next I took the manifold to the machine shop and had it glass blasted.

Finally I hung it up in our dyno room, turned the fans on and coated it with Duplicolor High Heat with ceramic 1200 degree engine enamel, looks pretty nice.
Next I took the injectors out of the fuel rail to replace the o-rings. It was a little bit of a pain to figure out, but easy once I figured it out. I used the two screws as fulcrums and two screwdrivers to lift them out.

Last thing I did before heading home was starting to strip the valve cover.

I’m going to Duplicolor it with high heat gloss black and then polish off the letters and then clear coat the whole thing, hopefully it will turn out really shiny. However I was thinking about just clear coating the valve cover, it looks really cool with the brushed aluminum look.

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drftwerks

the paint on the mani is going to come ff in probably like a week after its running

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xblack240x

Looks good so far, but I have one question, I need to replace my o-rings, and I had a spare SOHC laying around, and I decided to practice with that one so if I screw up its not a problem, but I still couldn't get the injectors out, but I had someone come and help me get them out, and while I was looking at the injector, I couldn't figure out how to get the o-ring off, nor was I able to figure out how to get an o-ring back on... I know this is probably simple, but hey, I only learn from my mistakes, I'll probably go back out tomorrow and try and figure it out, but any help would be appreciated, seeing as how you just did this... Thanks and keep up the good work

GSXRJJordan

Theres no trick to injectors/o rings/etc. Don't break the clips, is all.

Joe you're doin a bang up job, but 1200 degree enamel will flake the first day. Exh temps are 1600 or so, there's no spray on paint that'll last. Bummer, I know, cause it looks really cool. I'm glad you're doing your valve cover, I'm gonna have to do mine when I repaint ~ oh and on a side note I'll have to get some better legaljdm.com sticker pics with the new wheels

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G-spec

Great thread! Thanks for sharing...

tknbkthrsdy4anfg

I figured it would burn off eventually. I thought exhaust temps were usually around the 1100 range for piston motors.
either way that manifold isn't staying on there long I'm gonna throw like 6 more coats on it anyway, atleast until that can runs out.
It does look bitchin tho.
I wanted to do my valve cover cause that flat black texture stuff looks like poop and mine looked worse becaust it looks like someone tried getting the oil fill cap off with vice grips and knicked it all up. but I polished that right out. I want that think glossy. I really wanted to do it like construction safety pink, but I dont feel like paying the money to powder coat it.

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khmerguy618

build is looking great. hope it gets legalized.

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s13gold

subscibed!!!!!!!!

tknbkthrsdy4anfg

Day 10
Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Well over the weekend I had a catastrophe painting the valve cover. It started out being gloss black, which I couldn’t lay down a coat without getting a run. So I had my friend David paint it and he had a hard time too. So we decided to throw in a little bass boat silver metal flake in. Well, a little turned into a lot and made then entire area around the dyno room look like a disco and the valve cover look like a fishing lure. I was so disgusted I didn’t take any pictures. Anyway the motor is so close to being done. I’m waiting on UPS for my Circuit Sports oil block, and today I got the exhaust side of the motor on.
First I put the stud that came out back into the block, then attached the turbo to the manifold with a new gasket.

Next I torqued the nuts (somehow) and bent back up the locking plates.

Then I slapped the whole thing along with the exhaust gasket and the oil and water lines onto the block.

Next I torqued the manifold bolts down and added the compressor inlet pipe and the water neck.

Finally I added the o2 elbow and o2 sensor.

Tomorrow I should have the oil block and I will make some lines for the remote oil filter mount.

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tknbkthrsdy4anfg

Day 11
May 30, 2007

I don’t know if it is every gear head’s dream, but its certainly been one of mine to have some sweet AN hardware and braided stainless lines in my engine bay. Yesterday my Circuit Sports oil block came in, its quite a nice piece.

It has 2 -8AN lines, a -6AN adapter and plug incase you need an oil supply, and a also a port for your stock oil pressure switch. Next I went to the local race supply store and picked up some hardware.

I got four -8AN hose ends, two 1/2” pipe to -8AN adapters, 3’ of -8AN braided stainless hose and an oil filter block.
First I cut the 3 feet of stainless hose in half by taping it with electrical tape and cutting it with the cutoff wheel.

Then I stripped off the electrical tape and slid the hose into the red part of the hose end, putting the end of the hose flush with the threads.

Then I lubricated the blue part of the hose end with some white lithium grease.

Next I clamped the red part into the vice using an AN assembly clamp and pushed the blue part of the AN fitting into the red.

I twisted it with my palm until the threads engaged then used a 7/8” AN wrench to tighten them.

I tightened the fitting until the red and blue parts were just about 1mm apart.

Next I got out the stock SR oil plate and compared it to the Circuit Sports piece.

Then I took the two o rings off of the stock plate and put them on the new one.

Next, I wrapped the stock oil pressure switch with teflon tape and put it in the block.

Then I installed the oil block onto the motor and torqued it down.

Then added the oil lines I made earlier.

And finally connected them to the oil filter mount.

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J-Style

Damn Joe! The SR is coming along nicely! I can't wait to get to get owned by it on the highway...or mountain, haha! That scar on your hand is still big, but the suspension was sick.

Later buddy,

Stephen

zackt69

Very cool man! Damn, I need to get me one of those AN assembly clamps... looks handy.