junks13

i took my bone stock s14 to the track last night and ran [email protected] i just spent over my budget geting my car road wothy and painted and i plan on going turbo but i want to do it right so thats going be a while so whats a few cheap mods i could do to lower my times aliitle bit. Now i lied in the begining i have a 248in/232ex cam setup which totally changed my powerband (for the better) and ahollow cat, and hpracing muffler thats it i was wondering roughlyhow much cai and 4-1 header would help and i know i should just save up for the turbo but id just like to play around at the track alittle all suggestions welcome.

__________________
down_SHIFT

mrmephistopheles

if you're looking to have a fast drag racer, sell your 240 and get a 5.0 mustang.
They're WAY cheaper to make fast.
For what it'll cost to get your car to the 12s, you could have a Mustang into the 10s.

edit: $5k and you're set.

__________________

DJPimpFlex

yea S13's and z32s are terrible drag cars. The rear subframes tend to jump arround WAY to much and give you massive wheel hop.

__________________

Irukandji

The secret is to have nawz and diamond plate floor mats.


Shhh! don't tell anyone

S14DB

__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

Jung918

I need 2 bottles. By tonight!

BigVinnie

Get a Biki Rom, tune your ecu yourself. It's under $300. That will get you a few more tenths in the 1/4mile, you will need it anyway when you turbo to change fuel and ignition maps......

Neejay

I've been looking more and more into ecu tuning too. I think ecu tuning is where it's at as well....

gearhead290

buy an ebay intake, put an K&N filter on it (~$60), then get a 3" exhaust.

m0rex

Booost it. Theres cars out there you can make fast in a straight line for cheap. But 240sx are fun when you make them handle good and go fast.

__________________

Realchaos1

Get 370cc injectors, then get an SAFCII ;] Advance the timing a lil

tre

15.6 on a stock setup would be considered impressive.

Considering a stock s13 can't break into the 15's ( to my knowledge )

My friend hit a 15.6 with his Intake/cat back s13

I personally hit a 14.9 I'm betting I can drop it down to 14.7 or 14.6 with a few more tweaks.

__________________
I didn't buy an Audi because it is a Great Car, but for more of a reason to be an asshole.

Luka240nos

Last year I hit a 15.93 with a .764 launch which was real shitty and the car is stock

tre

14.963 @ 93.12*

Better shift points/launch alone would probably drop me to a 14.7. I hate 240k vlsds. Almost no better than an open diff lol.

__________________
I didn't buy an Audi because it is a Great Car, but for more of a reason to be an asshole.

junks13

first of all buying a mustang is out of the question i hate mustangs . tre what do you have done to yours t0 hit 14s

__________________
down_SHIFT

tre

Um. well here's my list of mods. Tune it to yourself (i'll display my tune, doesn't mean it'll work with yours)

AEM Intake (for now)
Greddy 4 to 1 header 2.5" all the way back, gutted cat
Fully Advanced Ignition Timing
JWT Cam Sprockets.
5degree retard Intake
7.5 degree retard Exhaust.
SAFC-II -11% Fuel Curve(after 4000rpm)

Things I plan on doing:
RAM air induction with z32 MAF
Locked Differential
LightWeight Flywheel
Better Clutch
Exhuast Cam on Intake side.
Maybe retard the cams a bit more. (IF i can accomplish the revs to 8k)

Remember this is my Drift Bitch. I do drags for shits n giggles lol

__________________
I didn't buy an Audi because it is a Great Car, but for more of a reason to be an asshole.

BigVinnie

Tre you are going to need to explain to me how you came up with -11% After 4000rpm, or why you would even want to run it that negative in that high of an RPM.......Also why would you advance timing without an ecu tune?
Just as a reminder when you use the SAFC to set a signal from MAF to ecu that the distributor should be set at all times at 20BTDC, your running NA, not FI.
Advancing the distributor more than 8 degress sets detonation and it isn't even recomended to advance the KA's timing past 3degress of 20 BTDC for a total of 23BTDC. Advancing the timing doesn't do anything accept increase HC levels, actually decreasing power, running the KA at -11% on the SAFC has decreased your fuel dumping and shortened the pulse width, why would you do that, the KA already runs stoich a little before 5600RPM? I can understand running a -2% at early RPM's like between 1500~3500RPM.
The way you have expressed it to me your na engine should of blown up from detonation, I am calling BULL SHIT......

Again I am calling BULL SHIT when I see it. First off retarding the exaust cam 7.5 degress is retarded, for reasons I won't express to you because obviously you know nothing about math or even come close to understanding engineering...Secondly JWT adjustable sprockets only retard/advance 3 degress either way, and there is a good reason for it. So you defenitely didn't retard the intake 5 degress either.
You also didn't do an ecu tune which in no way the SAFC can account for, the actual MAPS of your ECU need to be reconfigured.
So with all this B.S non relative fiction I would say you run a 16.00flat in the 1/4mile, NO BULL shit.
Here's the link to the JWT web site!!!!!!!
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_results.asp

You have no clue what posi traction or limited slip do. Just to answer it for you it should increase 1/4mile time since grip is applied to both wheels instead of one...
This is one of the reasons why oldschool Datsun720 truck owners weld there open diffs for track use. I happen to be one of them...
I also wouldn't be surprised if you just took that 1/4 mile time from a stock sr20det since that is exactly what it is...LOL

Uhh last year I hit a 15.3. This year an added ecu tune should set me at a 15flat or BETTER...........I have an s13, if you couldn't figure, and s13's have a lighter chassis nut case.....



Oh yeah, I'm laughin at how FAKE you really are....


I HATE FUCKIN LIARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

junks13

listen i dont know much about tuning im more mechanicly inclined i know what it take to make an engine run better but when it comes to computers im bum fuzzled. How much would a cai and cheap header pic me up roughly and for the guy that suggested i get a mustang id rather run a 15.00 in my s14 than a 13.00 in a mustang because any moron with a little money can make a v8 run but i like a challenge

__________________
down_SHIFT

BigVinnie

Get a OBX header if your cheap, or a DC sports if you want top notch power and quality.
TB coolant bypass is a free mod, but that is like a fraction of a donkey, it just keeps air cooler. If you have a federal issued ecu, you can do the EGR block off, it wont throw any codes on the FED ecu's and it makes the engine alot more jumpy since your engine wont consume hot exhaust gasses to replace air.
High flow cats are a must have and do the job.
You will need an ecu tune to get a flat 15 or better in the 1/4mile with those modifications...
P.S don't take advice from TRE he really knows nothing...

tre

Bigvinnie is obvious you've never tweaked an n/a ka with those statements made.

Its picture time now. And trust met heres quite a few people from WA on here who can vouch for me.

Brb taking pictures mucho <3

__________________
I didn't buy an Audi because it is a Great Car, but for more of a reason to be an asshole.

S14DB

You got pwned buddy.

You would have posted pics with this post if you had them.

__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

BigVinnie

HAHAHA bring on the picture show LIAR!!!!!! Bring on the PHOTO SHOP!!!!LOL
I've tuned KA's before you were born man, your full of dog poo......

ryan hagen

"RAM air induction with z32 MAF"

your car will run like shit, nissan mafs have a really hard time metering air that is rammed into them. sport compact car project 300zx is writen proof. on my ka when i did a cai in my fender well air from through the "brake duct" was directly ramming into the filter and my maf couldnt read it, it spit and sputtered and ran like ass abouve 25mph, i put a blocker in front of it then it ran great.

__________________

1990 hatch ka24de gt2871r

DJPimpFlex

^BIG VINNIE FTW!!! That tear down of his life was awsome!

__________________

tre

Upload pictures ^_^ hold on.

Oh btw i wonder why a company in florida puts z32 mafs on their sr's with no problem with an SAFC-II... hmm must be the "correction factor" they have

__________________
I didn't buy an Audi because it is a Great Car, but for more of a reason to be an asshole.

BigVinnie

Z32's are put onto sr's because they can be used for a wider pulse width 370cc injection and above......
The stock KA MAF accepts upto 250HP on 330~370cc injection. Using a z32 MAF on an NA KA is not needed.......

tre

oh yeah i dont even have photoshop so don't even cross that line

__________________
I didn't buy an Audi because it is a Great Car, but for more of a reason to be an asshole.

tre

and two small vids from my FIRST time at the track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blOSg-lDuCk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmBVdR5r24s

Those are a few pics of what i have.

For you not to hit a 14.9 and be tuning for so long is either:
A: you suck a tuning
B: you suck at driving

please choose one or the other, or maybe both?

__________________
I didn't buy an Audi because it is a Great Car, but for more of a reason to be an asshole.

BigVinnie

You fail to comprehend and you suck at life. My car is a daily driver running a 15.3. You my friend have de-tuned your ride to run much too lean and to shorten the life of your engine. I myself could of done that as well as anyone else. Tuning properly is to have a vehicle that runs stoich not lean. It isn't impressive. Proper tuning is impressive and is gauranteed that my engine will outsurpass yours. Without shifting cams I will hit a 15flat or better, that my friend is tuning.
Looking at a distributor that is fully advanced isn't genius by anymeans and you only further the chances of detonation and knock on a long stroke engine, especially using the stock ecu tune with an SAFC. You haven't changed your maps it is still stock, you just change pulse width..It's not smart...
Have fun with it while you can it won't last long, and it isn't streetable.
Also when I hear shit like>>>You defenitely don't know what the fuck your talking about since the bottom end doesn't accept rev well having a half weighted crank....Why you want to rev past 7000RPM baffles the fuck out of me....

kompressorlogic

tres tune prolly is dangerous....

but in reality tuning to stoich like u say quite dangerous also.... stoich is 14.7:1 and that is too lean for modern compression ratios and timing curves.... so either you have a wide definition of stoich or somethin??...

once again id love to see some data logs of your A/F's ( seriously, not tring to clown, id like to see some competitive tunes) also tre id like to see you use the wide band and see what your AF really are...

so the only way u would have a safe tune at stoich would to have a very very modest timing curve.....

id imagine a safe A/F with a decently advanced timing curve would tune around 13.5:1-13.9:1 and have decent power....

thats funny i see tre driving around all the time??sure looks street able to me