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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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05-23-2011, 08:10 PM | #31 |
Zilvia Member
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love this alarm set up. but is there anyway to fool the system into thinking that the car is set into MTS mode for the remote start, without having to pre set it before getting out?
thanks
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05-23-2011, 11:56 PM | #32 | |
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05-24-2011, 07:43 AM | #34 |
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Does your car have factory security? If not, then it obviously won't have the anti-theft module. The trunk pin wire you can get at the light in the trunk if needed.
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05-24-2011, 08:33 AM | #35 |
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You can simply set it for automatic mode. You will still want the e-brake hooked to the black/white neutral safety wire. Keep in mind if you or anyone else leaves it in gear, it's going to drive away even with the e-brake on. You could make a safety device that mounts under your shifter boot. It would have to be a ring suspended by springs around the actual shifter shaft. You then ground the shaft and wire the ring to negative shutdown. So if the shifter touches the ring, aka its's in gear, then it will send ground to the negative shut down wire and not allow the remote start to initiate. You would most likely need to remove the inner shifter boot to do this.
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05-24-2011, 06:08 PM | #37 |
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I'm having zero luck with these last two wires. My SECU only has half the wires installed. I looked up my MID number and it doesnt say anything about factory alarm. So if my SECU has the green/yellow for the alarm disarm output, shouldnt it have the lt. green/red for the arm? Can this be found in smj?
Guys, I appologize about this. I dont think it would be this hard if my car wasnt already hacked up. |
05-24-2011, 06:28 PM | #38 | |
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05-26-2011, 07:58 PM | #40 |
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I checked my wiring and everything looks ok. My alarm stop working . Last sound it made was a long chirp then it stopped responding.
My control just shows an x when I press it. I think I killed my alarm control unit . I haven't had time to check it out because of finals but it's been like that for 2weeks . Now do you sell the control unit or do they sell the control unit ? Or do I have to buy another alarm? Please let me know , thanks. Rafael Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk !
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05-26-2011, 08:26 PM | #41 |
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Just disconnected the module and I tried to start my car and it wont start. I connected the module to harness H3 and it started . My antennas light does not turn on and my remote still gives me the error that It can't connect. Does my module work or should I still replace it .
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05-26-2011, 08:41 PM | #42 | |
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You could have a remote that simply isn't paired to the brain anymore You could have a bad brain You could have a bad antenna or antenna cable These systems have a limited lifetime warranty. Just take it back to where you got it!?! |
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05-26-2011, 09:36 PM | #43 |
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I got it from a shop that was closing. Im going to exhaust all possibilities that do not require replacing the module. Then I will just order one from ya and if I fix it . Then I will need some rear speakers for my car , cuz damn my car sounds like mosquitos are buzzing in the back... Lol
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05-28-2011, 06:52 AM | #44 |
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Just wondering about my connections for the power window module. What I am unsure about is the passenger side sub switch. Do I connect before or after the sub switch? Do I need to wire the tilt sensor into the sensor bypass relay? Thanks
530T Window Automation Module Wiring H1/1 Violet- ground path motor #1 --> chassis ground H1/2 Green- driver’s side down motor (motor side) --> driver side door blue (motor side) H1/3 Blue- up, motor (motor side) --> driver side door green (motor side) H1/4 Red- Constant 12V --> from battery or white at ignition harness H1/5 Black- chassis ground --> chassis ground H1/6 Violet/Black- ground path motor #2 --> chassis ground H1/7 Green/Black- passenger side, down motor #2 --> passenger side door blue or red/white (motor side)? H1/8 Blue/Black- up, motor #2 passenger side --> passenger side door green or red/black (motor side)? H2/1 Brown- up, switch #1 (switch side) --> drivers side door green (switch side) H2/2 White- driver side down switch #1 (switch side) --> drivers side door blue (switch side) H2/3 Red/White (-) - auxiliary input --> connects to H2/6 white/violet on alarm H2/4 Orange (-) - ground when armed --> connects to H1/12 orange on main alarm harness H2/5 Grey- output during activation --> wires to relay to bypass audio, motion and tilt sensors (see relay connections below) H2/6 Brown/Black- up, switch #2 passenger side (switch side) --> passenger side door green or red/black (switch side)? H2/7 White/Black- down, switch #2 passenger side (switch side) --> passenger side door blue or red/white (switch side)? Sensor Bypass Relay 85- H2/5 Grey from 530T 86- 12V (fused) from battery 87- N/A 87A- Red wire from tilt, audio and motion sensor 30- Red wire from alarm Last edited by mikeroy420; 05-29-2011 at 08:07 AM.. |
06-04-2011, 10:34 PM | #45 |
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I think I figured out why my alarm does not work. I think I locked my self out of it. I was. Reading that I might need a bitwriter ? What is that?
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06-05-2011, 08:00 AM | #46 |
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I was wondering if I need one of those as well. Here is a description in an add I found. It looks like a universal programer for alarms.
998T Bitwriter And Bitwriter Upgrade Chip Version 2.7 With 998U And 998M |
06-05-2011, 09:55 AM | #47 | |
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07-21-2011, 03:31 PM | #48 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Toby, I just got the 5901 from you today. I figured I'll follow the links at the beginning of this thread to get me started but before all that, I got one question. Is there anything I need to watch out for in installing an alarm, when I still have the stock alarm on the car? The alarm is disarmed and works intermittently. I still have the stock OEM remote and I think it barely works. I've had it turn on once and took me a while to turn it off, think I've managed to open the doors with the remote a couple of times but that was it.
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07-21-2011, 05:36 PM | #49 | |
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08-10-2011, 03:17 PM | #50 |
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hey everyone i bought the viper 5901 for my 1996 240sx se and im still confused on the 2 wires from harness h1...the blue wire and the orange wire....where do i hook it up to? i read on here that it hooks to the tilt sensor/backup batt/ etc...but im not sure what color wires these are? if anyone can help that would be great..!
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08-10-2011, 04:59 PM | #51 | |
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08-11-2011, 06:36 PM | #53 |
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oh and for what i have hooked up so far everything seems to work fine except that it keeps saying my hood is open with its not, and gives me a sensor 2 alert also.....anyone know how to fix this?
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08-11-2011, 07:18 PM | #54 | ||
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Zone 2 is the on board shock sensor. Is your shock sensor being triggered? How do you know it's zone 2? Are you reading it off the remote when it's actually occurring or are you counting the number of LED flashes on the antenna when you disarm the system? How often does this happen? |
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08-11-2011, 07:59 PM | #55 |
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pretty much after i start my car...i wired everything up like it should and it seems to be fine now ...but everytime i lock my car i still get that shock sensor 2 error, and my LED light keeps flashing even after i have the car started and key in ignition, could it be because i have a push start button? i counted the flashing LED lights and it flashes 4 at first and then 2 and then repeats.....any fix? oh and also is there a way to program my alarm to auto lock after i have the ignition started?
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08-11-2011, 08:06 PM | #56 | |
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08-11-2011, 08:48 PM | #60 |
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ok sorry broadfield i read that again....hooked up the THICK pink wire and voila! no more flashing LED light.......thanks a bunch! and i do still get that sensor 2 error on my remote fob but at certain times when im pressing the lock/unlock consistantly.....but yeah still wanna know how to program the ignition lock so my locks automatically lock after i start my car....
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