aled

Hello again,

I am here again to share with you all my 1.5JZ Build into my S14. I previously shared my original 1JZ swap into the S14. I decided to make this specific thread about this swap for future reference of other members.

At any rate, to get everyone up to speed as to where I am now, here is the link for the original 1JZ swap: http://zilvia.net/f/chat/376821-s14-1jz-build.html

With the JZ swap becoming more and more prevalent into the S-Chassis such combination of the 2JZ and the 1JZ are inevitable. Originally, the notion that the 1JZ Head flowed better than the 2JZ head, thus many people decided to combine the two: 1JZ Head, 2JZ Bottom End...

However, the 1JZ Head, which was flow tested, actually flows ~20cfm less than the 2JZ Head. The only other difference is in that of air velocities, with the 1JZ Head at a higher velocity.

1JZ: 2.5 Liter
2JZ: 3.0 Liter

Bore of the engines is exactly the same. The 2JZ gains the extra displacement through a slightly longer stroke, thus making the block slightly taller.

For those of you who did not read my 1JZ build thread; My engine developed rod bearing clearance issues due to detonation. I explored just rebuilding the 1J, however, I would have spent quite a bit of finances on new 1J pistons/rods, irregardless of detonation damage.

My final choice was to purchase a Used 2JZGTE, pull the head off the 2J and put my 1J head on there and party. This option allows me to re-cooperate the money spent on the engine by re-selling the 2J Head, Intake, Turbos, ECU, Wiring Harness, AC Compressor, Water Pump, Cams, Etc. This option seemed the quickest way to have my S14 driving again and the most economical.

Other big factors include:
- 1J Head has HKS 264 cams
- Converted wiring harness into my S14 adapted to 1JZ
- Single Turbo setup/Fuel Rail/Injectors

The documentation:

After running my finger through the 1J's oil. X__X
#1 Cylinder Rod Cap removed.
1J Ready to be removed.

Wiring harness removed, ready to be torn down.
2J Shows up.
Very clean engine, was previously mated to an automatic transmission.
Hahahahah
Friend who was apart of the engine shipping asked me after I received my engine if I got my "surprise." I was confused; a few days later I go to clean up the shrink wrap the engine was covered with when I discovered this Flesh Light. Thanks Mike Pollard xD. Hahaha.
2J Head/Turbos removed.
I will forever be amazed at how people convert these engines to a single turbo setup with the engine still in the car.
1J Head, the cams must be removed for head removal. Plenty of documentation is available through the FSM on how to go about this. Very straight-forward.
Detonation damage on the pistons is hardly noticeable. This is a good sign as I plan on building this engine on the side when time/funds permit.
I will be switching the water pipe that snakes around the engine to the 2J Block.

Garage with all the JZ love.

I will continue to update this thread. I will now switch my focus to the 2J and preparing it for maintenance parts and the 1J Head/Single turbo conversion.

- Gates Timing Belt
- New 2J Timing Belt idler pulley
- Front/Rear Main Seals
- Timing Belt Guide
- ARP Head Studs
- OEM Toyota 2JZ Head Gasket
- OEM Toyota 2JZ Oil Pump
- I will transfer the 2J Water pump, timing belt tensioner, and alternator, water pump, and power steering pullies over to the 2J.

That's all for now,
Alex

future

Nice

Message length

__________________

dongoesby

subscribed!!

dongoesby

Phew just read through your previous 1jz thread. awesome build and very informative!

However, here is the question of weight distribution I'm sure a lot of people like to know (if you haven't answer else where already). I'm sure based on your great experience in drifting and in mechanical, you would be a perfect person to ask.

1) How would you compare the weight difference between the SR and 1JZ?

2) Does it get in your way of drifting (nose heavier maybe?)?

3) There is the Driftwork S15 had its 2JZ moved backward and reconstructed its firewall. Do you foresee the necessity of doing this for the ideal weight distribution?

aled

Thank you for the compliments.
As far as weight goes, I've only ever weighed the car with the SR, Myself, Cage: 2550 (around that). The mount kit I use actually bolts to the engine about 3-4 inches back from the center of the engine. However, the R154 is pretty heavy compared to the SR/KA 5-Speeds, so that helps. I also noticed the car sits about a 1/4'' lower in the front with the JZ, interesting.

Right off the bat though, the JZ is a cast iron block, with two more cylinders, the weight differences I'd imagine are about 100-200 lbs. total added?

aled

Update.

I have been making A LOT of progress on the engine(s).

Off came the 2J Head. I am very pleased with the condition of the engine. Cross-hatches are still very much present; the fact that this engine came from an automatic car is reassuring.

Merry Christmas.
Back to work on the car. XD

ARP head studs installed.
Per ARP's instructions these are hand tightened only into the block.

OEM Toyota Head Gasket.
OEM Head gasket is a great part and extremely well designed from Toyota for Boost.

And the 1J head/Exhaust manifold on the 2J Bottom end.
Torque Sequence can be found in the TFSM. Head bolts are torqued to 3 sequences to a total of 80 ft. lbs.
1st Sequence: 35 ft. lbs.
2nd Sequence: 90 degrees from previous position
3rd Sequence: 75-80 ft. lbs.

This is the power steering pump support bracket we made. I had previously used it on the 1J and have transferred it over to this engine as well.

The JZ motors used two mounting points from the AC compressor to aid in the rigidity of the power steering pump. Since removing the compressor, the 1J specifically had a wobbly pump; this was a simple/easy fix.

Shot of the JZ/S-Chassis Motor Brackets/Avid Motor Mounts. Also shows the -10AN Oil Return for the turbo as well as the AN Feed. The rear oil feed is blocked off since I am using a single turbo.

Tonight/Tomorrow I will have the cams mounted and torqued to spec. I will also set the timing per the FSM's specifications. The cam torque will be rather time consuming as they require a torque to ~20 Ft. Lbs, then loosened, then re-torquing, a matter of 4 times...

Tomorrow I will have someone modify my upper water neck. This is another point of modification one runs into with the 1.5JZ. The 1J water neck, I had previously modified is too short to bolt to the head/fit in the water pump. Whereas the 2J water neck is still factory in it's sharp 90 degree turn it takes to plumb the water line in front of the upper timing cover.

I plan on modifying the 2J water neck to meet the upper radiator port on the passenger side of the car.

That's all for now!

- Alex

N2HIFI

Imma jump in here real quick alled, I currently rock a Rb20 powered hatch and have to say that the difference in weight between the ka and my rb (which weighs less then a 1j with r154 but is still a pig of a motor) was noticable but NOT ina bad way at all..things i noticed immediatley after the swap

-No more plowing and much improved repnosiveness from the front end when initiating

honestly the additional weight over the wheels i really never noticed, car drives great does not feel nose heavy, dosnt plow one bit. then when you compare the power and sounds of a inline 6 over a 4cylinder you could careless about anything other then mashing the loud pedal. I also belive that with the right suspension set up you can over come any small issue like weight... im rocking PBM coils and my car responds so quick to steering input.

ok back on track

blingbling

It sounds like he's referring to drifting on a competitive level, in which case there would probably be a noticeable amount of understeer based on the weight and placement of the motor. I don't believe the weight of this swap would be the issue, but the placement of the motor and how far back/low it is mounted to attain proper weight distribution. /end thread jack

N2HIFI

By competitive are you talking FD? cause i do events monthly.. this is my track car and is very purpose built. I'm running MDU events and will probley hit as many pro am/xdc events i can this year.

and i have very little understeer, if anything my car has oversteer, like i said no plowing and im only running a 215/45/17 in the front of my car

aled

Bubba

Nice build. Hope the new setup survives all of the fun.

__________________
Good at wrenching, terrible at electrical. Lord help me... HAHAHA

DrftKingIII

Can I have the fleshlight?

__________________

pandaroo

so have you christened the fleshlight yet?

__________________
89 2tone coupe
2jzgte swap in progress

punxva

looks like this will be a fun next step for your car, subscribed for more progress keep up the good work

__________________
Slip Gypsies Blog

7evil

Cool project!

__________________
七転び八起き

dubbs.

Well done, homie!

tapdeznutz

still a newb but in assuming jz swap easier cheaper then rb?

shiftdrift

if you need anyone to tig weld the water neck, i can do it for like 30 bucks.

__________________
SW Fab

h815 240sx

Where did you get those motor mounts?

and if I recall correctly doesn't ARP recommend the torque while using there grease be 95 ft/lbs?

blingbling

Just judging by the massive amounts of research, trial, and error that he has gone through, I'm pretty sure he is spot on when it comes to the torque specs.... and I'm pretty sure he specified that he went with the AVID mount kit.


Hey OP,


Love the build keep it coming. And that has to be one of the most epic Christmas trees I have ever seen xD

aled

Debatable.
I lined everything out in the previous thread on one of the last pages; maybe page 4 or 5.
I appreciate the offer. I will keep this option in mind. I usually have a local guy do my welding, but I'm not sure if he's working this week.
Touge Factory; I get a majority of my parts from them.

I followed the torque requirements directly off the ARP sheet found in the head stud box.

Final torque specification of 80 ft. lbs in three sequences. To re-assure myself, I double checked on SupraMania/SupraForums for the exact torque specification. The best method to achieve these specifications were as I posted:

1st: 35 ft. lbs.
2nd: 90 degrees advanced from the previous position (~55 ft. lbs.)
3rd: 75-80 ft. lbs.

I did use the ARP grease provided on the threads, washers, and nuts.

That is correct they are Avid motor mounts. I paid, $120? I can't remember. Great mounts; Yes, they are solid, the air vents rattle at 60 mph, but I never cared, but were not annoying or disruptive at idle.

Hahaha thanks. That is at a friends house, I thought the same thing about that tree.

h815 240sx

Stand corrected on the torque, checked my own sheet, my bad.

and as for the the motor mounts, I guess i should have said engine instead of motor. Mounts that bolt to the block, not crossmember.

GreddyReadys13

what did you do for your exhaust? im assuming custom work but how much clearance do you have and where does it run to

jdm2191

Cant wait to see it finished

__________________
My Build: The "Coupe De Ville" 1JZ Build!!

DrftKingIII

The fleshlight. Lemme haaaa dat.

__________________

aled

Moves have been made.
Hoping to have this in tomorrow or Thursday.

jdm2191

damn bro you move fast

__________________
My Build: The "Coupe De Ville" 1JZ Build!!

91sil80

cooooooooool

__________________
91 TTZ

conrad_s13.5

so,....will this need a retune?

__________________
cONtRol FReAkS

blingbling

Absolutely, 1j head + 2j booty = retune. The 2jz has a longer stroke, bigger bore, and when mated with the 1jz head he is definitely going to have to re-tune it. Especially with this case since it has probably had head work done and an aftermarket turbo that will need to be dialed in to match the new powerband ( Never read your 1jz swap thread so I'm just assuming here )